PMC raceengines

Just thought id show them , they look so cool ,

Well just finished the crank. It needed lots of work as i found a crack in it, so i welded it up and spent some time making it race ready come up a treat , also found a crack in the head ... So i replaced it and ported it the same as the old head as it had made great hp before , there is a lot of work to go but its getting there

I love the 3076r on any motor between 2L and 3L so strong where you need it on the street The 3540 is a great race turbo and 450hp atw on the L28 pump fuel under 20psi ,

It was all the rage to fit the hose of the back , and it wont hurt i still fit them some times, there is way to much oil up there But its a easy fix to the head only takes 2 min with a drill and the oil problem is no more , The oil drains at the rear on the block can do with some love as well ,the casting is very ruff ...

Hi guys Before you fit the rear drain just have a look at the factory oil drain , the first thing you must do is fix the casting flash so the oil can get past , then you may not need to fit a drain

Sorry Tony For what its worth i like Tony and his posts and have had many PM with him and hope he posts on the topic THANKS PMC

I have been running as close as .028in with my combos and had no problems. Just make make shore your ptv clearance is good ... Also if your pistons have large piston to bore clearance you will need more piston to head clearance , as the piston rocks it gets very close to the head . Just make shore you check the deck hight of your block before you order the pistons , and give the specs to the piston maker so you get what you need

Well its not the only way to go but it works well for me , JE do a good piston with this combo , that is very light and strong and they will make it to sute your head combo and valve size no problem ,, And there are a lot of fj20 custom rods on the market. But like i said there is very little in it over a normal rod , just a better piston and ring size

Over the Last 25 years i have built many L28 motors with diffrent rod lenth from 130 133 137 140 mm and my normal combo i run 140mm fj20 rods and a custom piston ,, is it better than other combos ,im not so shore if its better but it makes good hp and it revs very nice . I seen this combo many years ago in GTU cars and its been good to me . One time i built a motor to find out if the rods made a difrance and i set it up with L28 rods and pistons to set a bench mark , then we put 133mm l24 rods in with custom pistons .. gess whot no change . with in 3hp and no real gains ,to keep it fair i used the same rings on the pistons . Then i went to 140mm custom rods and a 28mm comp hight piston , the test was not so fair as the last test piston and rod were much lighter , and power and torque were better not by much only very small amounts ... Its the exhaust that makes or breaks a good engine at 8000 . And port volume. The rod has little afect over it ,,, But a nice piston thats short and light will make more power ...

I have done so many tests on this ,, and L24 rods are not long in the hole sceem of things and there is hardly a diffrence in hp not worth talking about

THANK god you dont own black stockings ... your legs are not sexy lol

WELL i think your wrong thinking that 5500 is lots Simon . if you wont top work done it cost money and it takes so much time to set a race head up ,, i work hard to make the best heads and motors in australia . Theres a old saying you get what you pay for , and i only work for people that wont the best and i work dam hard to keep them happy . yer there are people that think its a lot but there not asking for a race head , sorry for the rant pmc some pics of a hand ported e88 rally motor that made 300hp with 10.8 comp

Well thats a good one what type and spec do you wont , race, streat drag with all water mods i need more info to help you , a all out race head with 360hp flow with cam and springs big valves and all the good stuff is $ 5500 with flow sheets ready to bolt on

I did some tests thru the week on some of the engines at work , A L28 race motor with out plugs takes 20 ftlb to turn, with race springs ,120 on the seat , 14ftlb for the bottom with rear seal and all pistons new rings fitted .. BTW after running on the dyno for 1 hour i tested it again without plugs it now turns free with 16 ftlb .

Just a up date , next week i will take it back to the dyno to try some mods . Things i wont to try, last time we had some good resolts with the water mods but i wont to know how it will go with more comp , so i removed the head and shaved it to 50cc from 54cc so it now 11 from 10.3 . So i wont to know if it will run the same timing with the mods iv made to the water system . 2. try new exhaust manifolds , we have 3 sets to try, and we have the ones we had for a control to set a bench mark 3. Also have a new cam with more lift if we get time 4. Try 2 difrent spots to see if its better to put the hot water from over the port into the lower hose or in to the thermostat housing ,or in the top hose So more info next week ...

Yes Tony i will show some dyno work and timing and AFR info , all this was done on a p90 head , so i will cut up a N42 this week to see if it needs the same mod ...

locky thats harsh man ,, lol

Sorry for the lack of detale i have been mad bissy at work, over the next days i will take some more pics and do some sort of plan for people that wont to do this mod at home . Doing this with the drill i was able to remove the bridge ,all of it on all ports , and it was done in 1hour , so its a very easy mod .

I did all the ports with this methed i did a dummy run with the cut up head then did the good head of the motor ,, YES tony i did try to do it thru the plugs that were there but could not get the hole bridge removed and as is did all ports i needed a new hole and new fix .i know this has been done before but iv tryed to get more out and this is just a difrent angle at the fix thanks peter mc

I ran a stock 3.7 welded diff and shafts , for 3 years and ran 10.00 more times than i can remember with over 500 hpatw and lots lb torque ,, dont know how many tail shafts i smashed , but the diff and shafts never gave me any truble

When on the dyno the other day , i found no5cylinder was not the same temp as the rest so i got to thinking, how do i fix this not just mask the problem . i know there is a thred with 24 pages off help but i need to realy fix this, not just do things that help so i cut up a p90 to get a good look for my self and found a fix, and hear are some pics So back on the dyno what happend , more power and more timing and all plugs look the same , and the engine was crisp

I know how you feel , we had a 1600 that did not like to go there, and had a more than one bad day lol so we had a crank made and it now lives at 9500 and is 3 years on no bad days since . good luck with your racer she looks good

hehhe I dont mind , Dam it was loud in with it at full noise , but i think the first vidio the sound was better

Sorry if my reply was short on detail ,, Its a job that takes detail lots of it, some times thats not to easy to put into words after 25 years of fitting bearings you get in to habbet. And its good to read lots of manuals to inprove your skills , Things like fitting the main bearing with out scraching the back as you fit them , scraching the back as you work them in to the block can lift the bearing and reck your hard work . Next time you fit a set check to see if there is a small amount of backing metal at the edge of the bearing shell ,, if there is you did not fit it right . And most 77style bearings have a lip at the edge that will measure 0.0002 high ,so you need to make shore thats what it is, not some other thing that will make the shell wear When you get to the point where your fitting the crank and its not spining free remove the caps one at a time and look for a smooth spot on a shell . If there is no spot that you see remove the thrust and fit the crank and check to see if it spins free if it does remove the crank and look for a reasion on the thrust ,,, Often the cap has a small dag or sharp edge that can lift the bearing ... The best tool in the shed is your eyes make shore you use them, detail is key and make shore you are clean, and your engine room is cleaner than your kitchen and your hands must be clean all the time When you think you know how and stop reading and going over basic stuff, your in for a sharp slap of reality basic stuff is all inportant to get the edge thanks peter mc

Right back to the timing chane .. One thing i have noted is the hp is not lifted as much if the twin idler is not needed , if the head and block have been shave more than they should, the slack side guide will cost you lots of power as the chane needs to go over a nasty angle at the top and the chane goes slack after the guide. so the twin idler works very well in this situation , But if you have not removed to much from the head and the factry style guide is well with in spec there is very little in it For high rpm like 7000+ the twin idler helps with timing [cam timing ] stay stable and this with less drive loss over the guide has to help make hp