Modern Motorsports Ltd

-and Walter makes a great cutting 'gel'/compound, when it wisps smoke it's at optimum temp and drilling is MUCH easier and friendlier on bits, comes in a tube and is like hard butter in texture, 'oil' is not the same typically, a good compound has lubricants specific to cutting that material

One group made a name by doing what you say to a few corvettes, Mid America AIR. I'm not encouraging such a project, just passing on the info quick search spit this out, 4Door Vette Homepage

Keith, I had that same combo. (heads and crank) It's quite a low comp. ratio overall as I recall........if you can trade your heads for a smaller cc head it'll wake it up easier. On the other hand mine was amazingly tolerant of timing and tuning flops

I'm always surprised at the topics that arise here , my father's been one of a few breeding those for some time now. I used to breed many varieties of freshwater but I never did breed discus. Drop me a line if you're ever looking for breeding stock and I'll put you in touch with my father and his business, quite known for their/his fish. Family Pet Supercentre and for some content.......I too am greatly looking fwd to seeing Dominic's project progress

"with the same backspacing, the new wheels/tires would stick out another 3", definitely necessitating flares." 980mak, why stick with the same backspacing? That implies you're only increasing your contact patch outward and not inward at all. Their is room to go in on the ZX....bigtime out back. 245's fit up front fine as you know and I'm positive 275's fit the rear easily and even more likely 315's as is (with coilovers). If you want flares that's fine, but you stated the same backspacing as stock which is a curiuos criteria to build upon IMO. I prefer to keep my wheel centreline within an inch of OEM if possible to minimize the change in bearing loads regardless of width.

"I cannot get the website to work. Try to email me on my work email." Craig, the web was down briefly while the ISP did a major server swap. Email was down as a result, it's all been back working for a while now and I did drop you a line lastnight. We went out of town on zero notice for a memorial service yesterday so my email queue got delayed somewhat. All items of interest are available. I would check the pads you have to see if they're glazed, if so, sand down their face and retry them to confirm your present system doesn't have any fundamental issues as Scottie suggests. And a rebleed never hurts, sometimes one can get air bubbles in a caliper. Tapping it with a rubber mallet and giving it a day or two and then rebleeding has always worked for folks that come across that. It should never be so soft that it's an actual hazard after your first bleed.

Solid lines need to be fixed at start and finish points or they'll be subject to vibration/fatique. Simple setup is to go straight from caliper to your fenderwell with a single SS braided/flexible line IMO. Either custom or a proper length Goodridge line with appropriate adaptors on either end (goodridge or aeroquip adaptors, I've had fine luck with both when I wasn't patient for a custom ss line to show up).

That's just too damn funny, one of them built my trans and I've enjoyed both of them at CCC (Car Club Challenge, I'm an honorary camaro club member in a NW group) at the old SIR 1/4 mile:) Boyce is hoping to head to Silver State Classic on short notice to help a driver out in desperate need of a navigator and Ellis.........well he's an interesting fellow:) I wouldn't bet against either of 'em, but I'd bet with 'em gearheads to the core

"I am not very good at bleeding brakes. I always had to get someone to help me. But I still don't think my pads are worth having, and I need rotors too." I installed Russell speed bleeders 5 yrs back or so and have done all my bleeds since then with no troubles. They're a one way valve you install to replace your bleeder screw. When it's in tight as per a normal bleeder it's fully sealed, back it out ~1/4 turn (a little less as I recall, 1/8-3/16's) and then pump the pedal as much as you want as long as you keep your master full......I do the same as you, a rubber hose slipped on the bleeder that then goes into a glass jar I use with a hole in the lid, hose end is submerged in brake fluid in the bottom just as an extra if it does want to draw anything back but not mandatory. I've got them available as well. Drop me a line anytime.

Have you fully bled your brake fluid? Checked front calipers and pistons are travelling freely? And rear pad wear normal as well? Many Z/ZX's now have old/worn brake systems. The OEM 280ZX brakes are fine for casual street or your 1320 hauldown. Check into your caliper condition and get some good pads, at the same time check the condition of your rotors, if they're very grooved/worn and beyond turning then they should be refreshed as well. If it's troublesome at the 1/4 mile it could nip you any other time as well. It won't cost much to do pads and fluid or even swap for rebuilt front calipers if required, rears are much pricier IME. I ran roadrace lapping day events for 2yrs with this setup. I haven't come across too many 280ZX motorsports enthuZiasts yet so feedback/experiences with 280ZX's aren't too abundant online. You'll be suprised at how good the OEM setup is for one-shot stops and light track when your system is in good condition with good pads. Full set of front/rear carbon fiber street pads is $105 delivered to your door FWIW. Their isn't a bolt on caliper we're aware of for 280ZX's like the 4x4 caliper. Besides 280ZX is similar to Z's IMO in that it's the rotor mass that's limiting total braking as the first limitation for extreme use, then modulation 2nd. I'm quite certain your issue is the current state of your system, it's design is fine, just needs some refreshing I'm sure. If I could do threshold braking from 140mph to 60 on lapping days with hot rotors, then yours will handle your 1/4 mile stops with cold rotors fine once refreshed HTH

"if you're not gonna upgrade the rotors just upgrade the pads....hawk blue or carbon metallics..." Hawk Blues will just shred your rotors in cold street use. They're pretty much a track only or drive to track and then track it only pad unless you don't mind excessive dusting (when cold) and rotor wear. I've had a set on my shelf for sometime now but never had to use them yet, I did my street setup so I wouldn't have to mess with dual track pads etc which can be a cost that'll sneak up on you over time. Some true racing pads are $150US/set...couple that to rotor replacements and a bit more up front can be well spent.

" When I pulled them it was metal with no pad only backing plate. " Cash, we know pads alone won't give your monZter the brakes it needs The KVR's and R4S's are among some fine street/autox pads IMO but do NOT compensate for modified Z's expecting to reliably close large speed differentials in short order repeatedly with OEM rotors, temperature climbs outside operational zones of the pads.

Lockjaw, yes and yes. Can you elaborate on your current issues? You're running 1320's at the track and can't stop afterwards without difficulty? OEM in proper shape should haul you down in a moderate fashion without any troubles, if you're running stickies and doing a max-force brake effort on crap pads then you're going to have troubles. Even OEM pads will practically melt when driven very aggressively IME. The only very cheap upgrade which is worth it BIGTIME in my experience (I did track etc with my setup OEM..) is some higher quality pads. For me these were the KVR carbon fibre pads I started running some 5 yrs ago and now distribute. I was unable to fade them on lapping days when my brake fluid was even boiling over and their rotor wear is friendlier than anything else I've ever used (includes at least 4 other compounds including OEM's). For upgrades I sell my 13" brembo rotor/PBR caliper front setup which is all you'll ever need. Incredible modulation and control comes along with the immense braking force. Drop me a line for more details if interested. Present available setup is based on a 5lug conversion but I'm always open to new alternates. Pictured below is my bolton setup, I also run the 16x8 RX7 wheels, only street 13" setup I'm aware of that clears 16" (some anyhow ) wheels. q's are always welcome

"Are the front 70-78 Z rotors not actually a problem " Glad to have you BROKBOLT, welcome. The rotors ARE a problem in that they they're non-vented so their rate of heat dissipation is slower and their simple overall metal mass is too low to absorb the large amounts of heat generated in our more spirited driving. Better pads that don't burn up like OEM organics can help to an extent as they still operate at higher temps, most metallics are quite aggresive on rotors IME, the KVR's aren't agressive at all and are great for street/light track. Firstly a rotor has to have enough mass to absorb the heat generated during your maximum braking/closing zones (ie. 100mph to zero street, or 140mph to 60mph track (just examples!)) WITHOUT rising to a temperature in excess of the operating range of the pads you're using. Secondly it then has to be able to dissipate enough heat after the above stop such that it can then reabsorb the heat generated in your next stop without exceeding operating limits of associated components. Typically a street setup is only intended for a few hard stops, nothing very repetitive closely spaced and the 'average' rotor temp would be quite low as 95% of the time you're cruising. Track setups (not 1320, road racing/lapping etc) are quite different in that your average rotor temperature may be 4-500 degrees for ie. and you're using brakes for 20% (just arbitrary examples to aid the explanation) of the time driven if not more. To be very functional this setup has to be able to both absorb large amounts of heat and dissipate heat quite effectively. For cheap basics, one is best off by regularly flushing their brake fluid (annually at least, Ford HD fluid is great and cheap), this helps keep calipers clean inside and functioning smoothly, and run rotor friendly respectable pads as they don't groove your rotors and induce warping as many others do. I'm continuously amazed that some folks will buy the cheapest pads for their brakes. The difference can be 20 or more feet or a complete fade altogether in your braking distance which can be life or death depending on what you're trying to avoid at those rates of deceleration. I'll hop of my soap box now. The real kicker is how cheap the good street pads are for what you get IMO.

Swap out your old all seasons Mike and your traction should greatly improve Couldn't help it, that did catch my eye, a heavy duty rebello racer like yourself with all seasons on his summer street Z machine What specifically is required for install on the phantom unit (ie. what other total costs or involvement should one expect)? Are they in use on any rides with 250, 300 or higher ft-lbs torque? They sound great, anyone have any feedback on their 'servicelife' and/or are the wear parts easily replaced? BTW, those ebrake extension brackets still on track for this weekend?

Welcome Why not cut your springs once you've completed the other work? Strut re and re does not take long so why not wait? It will depend on where you place several components/battery etc and how many weight saving efforts you make....rad/batt/intake/heads/water pump/headers/heads/ etc...

Help with..........what?? Just swap the rear covers with a pre 84 R200 rear cover and use a front yoke that you want your driveshaft to match.....(ie. most swap on the pre 84 R200 yoke as well, one pipe wrench, big socket and breaker bar and some attention to appropriate torque so you don't overcrush it on resinstall.) Other than that standard R200 halfshafts for Z cars are used, if you have lots of power or want to avoid U joint axles you can use 280ZXT CV halfshafts with the adaptors I have available.

" I also had a mad scientist moment and got the idea of using large dia tubing (2.5"+-) as both subframe connectors and exhaust as well. I don't know, just brain storming............ " Quite possible with flexible joints b/t motor and fixed side exits.......be sure to consider heat effects/transmissivity on potential related components. I have heat reflecting material from rear of my seats forward on my floor/tunnel and 12" up my firewall, then that's covered with sound deadener. Really helped cabin and tunnel heat. Anything attached to the frame I'd coat the inside with ceramic or similar, could even be 'sleeved' to have a majority air gap insulator if need be...just a few thoughts...not saying it is possible with a reasonable budget but might be......I've thought of doing it with HSS thinwall 2x4 steel as it's great ground clearance but connections would be a bit of work (just as an exhaust pipe, not structural piece).

" ARE THESE BLOCK HUGGERS" Yes they're huggers, & they're flexible to make some changes to help with fitment........I'm still fencesitting, thinking perhaps I should settle for 1-5/8's for ease of clearing everything longterm service etc......someone commented they were pricey, IMO their pricing is very fair for a properly built and ceramic coated header. I'm sure they're not cranking out hundreds like hedman or others.

Dan, a few comments: -their are many drop base styles, no two I've seen give the same clearance increase, Mr. Gasket gave me the most drop -I'm not sure how your intake compares with a Vic. Jr. but I cleared a Vic. Jr. (2975) with edelbrock 1406 carb and Mr. Gasket drop base (dropbase now available BTW, I went with an offset dropbase with my EFI) -not sure if you looked into dropping your crossmember at all ala JTR suggestions, creates instant hood clearance...I've contemplated and am still tossing the idea around of about a 15/16" framerail/crossmember spacer, do correct other geometries as necessary if you do this -I also cleared a weiand 8004 with a qjet and 1406 carb with same dropbase Mr. Gasket noted above (the K&N dropbase didn't offer near as much clearance gain BTW) -how tight is your engine clearance to crossmember/rack? 1/8's of an inch can add up and really help out.......I flattened out my rack 'brackets' (the curved ones with channel shape) to allow a slight improvement and massaged my oilpan, if you weren't making it cozy down their you'd lose up to an easy inch of hood clearance....not too hard to change as motor is typically bolted direct to crossmember via spacer/mount so it's not a very hard thing to play with changing in small amounts -I didn't have the fuel vapour issues Dave warns of but depending on your climate your experience may vary

Craig's already covered off on that issue Z CAR CREATIONS

"My guess is it's a 3.90:1 ratio? Am I right?" Yup:)

"i was also wondering if i can use the stock hight struts..i am not planning on dropping it more than 1-1 1/2 inches ..." Yup, you can easily drop it 2" without sectioning struts.....as well 240Z OEM strut tops can help you gain strut travel if needed (for a 1.5" drop you have no worries, just extra info) as it's over 1.5" less in overall thickness vs. a 280Z strut top (I've posted exact measurements previously). With reduced strut travel spring rates are typically bumped up in part to reduce chance for bottoming...(ie. a slammed/Xtremely dropped suspension that is still desired to be very soft takes some careful planning) You'll like the tokico's

Morgan, I dropped you a note on the 15th. The Illumina's are great on a 280ZX, on the lightest setting '1' they don't control rebound as much as I'd like but at 2 and above they are a great shock for hard use and 1's tolerable for street:) I've got them on my shelf available to ship anytime. Drop me an email if you need more info, my schedule doesn't always allow me to routinely 'check' posts here.

Those pads are small, but they do work The later calipers and 240SX calipers we use are ~25% larger (comparing published pad areas). Difference as pictured below: The 240SX pads are the lower ones with yours being the upper. The KVR Sports (carbon fiber weave) are available, drop me an email for transaction details. FWIW, I'm still running the upper pads as I still have OEM rear brakes on my early 280ZX! Not quite biased right with my 13" fronts Gotta change that as all those (some 30+ setups now shipped ) now with the new 'CNC rear disk setup' have more rear brake than I