Modern Motorsports Ltd

Synthetic grease is a helluva bang/buck IMO. I've been using Castrol for several years now since I realized how cheap it is for how long it lasts. Very cheap bearing insurance as a few Z racers have found their front bearing life very prolonged once they switched to synthetic. I package it into all my bearing setups, yup I'm kinda fond of the stuff

R200V ?

4/87 (not earlier) thru 12/89 non SE models have 3.7 clutch type LSD OEM, 3.9 LSD R200's were only in Skylines AFAIK.

"If they fit automatic trannies would they not be an even easier fit with manual tranny as they are not as wide and bulky?" Depends on clutch slave/linkage clearances etc. required for the manual which would be closer to the firewall I would assume....I'd like to know more as well so my new exhaust will clear both my 700R4 and allow a T56 if I ever want to put one in later on.

Impact sockets and (if you don't have air) and impact hammer. It's basically about a 1" round and 5" long piece with a socket end that you smack with a hammer and it imparts a small twisting action on the socket (not much is needed...just enough to break free the bond). Well worth the $10 or so they are. I bought mine when I couldn't crack some lug nuts in a yard years back....2' breaker bar being jumped on did no good but the impact hammer with a 5lb hammer did the job.

"I am considering buying some urethane stock and working with my machinest at work. Can you guys give me any thoughts on this? " Chris, if you just want a proper OEM type alignment and don't need longterm adjustability then I'd reccomend a visit to a good suspension shop. They have all the hydraulic jacks/frames to tweak twisted 'local' (ie. not complete frame alteration front to back) parts to get you back to OE spec if they're a very good shop. A fine race shop locally has to square up varying pickup points regularly on some rides and they're very good with their tools....and their setup reads to .01 on settings and they actually pursue their dial in to that degree as well. Mike's stuff is great but if you're not looking for the race use/custom setup then you may want to spend less and achieve your OE type setting. I have parts I want to install but I'm trying to wait so I can install them all at once so I don't have to pay the suspension shop several times for my alignment etc.. good luck

Big ditto on all Mike C said. Much newer technology/efficiency and performance gains. Far cheaper and simpler to bump up in power if ever needed and driveability of the LT1 is great. TPI driveability is great as well but almost 50+ hp more in an Lt1 if not more in stock form once you toss the OE exhaust manifolds and cats. $2500-$3500 can fetch a complete powertrain if you're patient. Helluva a deal when you account for the excellent EFI system (worth at least $1k), motor (another $2k to build similar setup min.), T56 complete ($1.2k). The very effective aluminum heads are often underestimated in value as well. It'd be my 1st choice if I was starting another build (if Ls1's were more common that'd be my first choice but toooo pricey up here). my .02c CD

I"m assuming your '280ZX' was a typo and you meant 280Z? They're fundamentally different for motor mount setup/geometry related to your crossmember and JTR setback plates are of no use in a 280ZX. Just checking...if a 280ZX it differs... (their have been some late 1978 280ZX's FWIW)

Jim, for the vented or non-vented 4x4's I have KVR carbon fiber pads. For street, moderate track use (ie. not competition, and the HP Plus is not typically a competition pad either so I assume it fits your bill) the KVR's have been fade free in my experience with nominal dusting and very friendly rotor wear. Contact me for purchase info. If you step to competition I have another offering

Couple quick comments:-Z cars IRS is more efficient than just power to one wheel, all models can paint two black stripes without an LSD. Stock Lt1's spin 2/3 in Z's and LS1's more so. -V8 hp has far greater consequences than strictly X hp V8 vs. X hp L6. Torque is what challenges your traction moreso and across a far greater rpm range with a V8 and particularly a modern roller motor like an LS1. -as well the factory Lt1/LS1 figures are anything but overstated, especially once opened up at all in Z's with varying intake or exhaust (ie. no cats and/or headers etc). So your expected 2x's ratio for hp may in fact result in 2.5x's or more area beneath the torque curve for an LS1 vs. an L6. -long story short...it'll be a helluva a lot of fun but don't assume DOT treads in 225 series will keep all your torque/hp effectively on the ground for the reasons you mentioned IMHO. The 225/60/16 taller profile will help somewhat by reducing your gearing.

Keith, your drill bit will not create a hole precisely it's own diameter so you want to drill it below the intended interference ID. 10 thou doesn't seem that tight but I've left that work to my machinist now for some time as my experience was similar to BLKMGK's when I did it myself. It worked (and I'm still using those) but I will be replacing them with 'machined' ones this spring like the sets I just sent BLKMGK and a few others. As others mentioned, a truly tight interference fit isn't the easiest to pull thru properly and my machinist even made a fixture to help maintain the square alignment when they're pressed in. Only a slight taper over the 3" stud is quite noticeable in rotor/wheel install etc as BLKMGK and I found out. For drill bits I got two standard higher strength jobber bit for $16 tops. One would have lasted easily IF I was using a drill press and appropriate lubricant....the right lube makes it like a hot knife thru butter along with correct drillspeed etc. Assuming you can locate them properly initially which I erred on when I did it myself.

"and turns out that hennessey got into a brawl at a local star bucks with a member from f-body.org who was trying to stir up a fight because of the recent bad rap that hennessey got" Yup, word was he didn't fare so well.

""However, it sounds like this guy set himself up for it. "Hi, my name is 'Dumb Sucker'. I want the fastest Viper out there, don't know schit about cars, and have a disposable income." I'm sorry, but he won't get much sympathy from me... "" I agree he the customer was very exposed to be abused but even though we all say buyer beware...I don't care if you're spending $100/$1000/$10,000 or $1,000,000; many buyers aren't interested or don't have the time to do much research on the planned project etc which is why they're spending dough for it. I have NO sympathy for companies/individuals misrepresenting their services and products. The buyer can only do so much within their resource limits and magazines/media etc easily hype up reputations of most anyone listed their and it's easy to see how others feel that vendor/service is THE GO TO for their product. Hennessy's had troubles for years but noone took it up to a high degree that got publicized (why is he always changing marquees....he builds zero brand loyalty as he consistently screws a new car group). If we put the onus on all buyers to fully understand all products and vendors then their would be a helluva lot less purchasing going on and aftermarket parts/offerings including those of myself and others would not be available to the same detail. I think those on this board are more responsible buyers than most and are not the 'buying' norm. If he entered a contract with JH and it was breached by JH so knowingly and repeatedly then I have zero sympathy for JH. I still do tons of homework on most all of my purchases but I certainly don't expect other buyers to do it to the same degree. Vendors (particularly good ones) exist so buyers can just have faith and enter a contract for a 'complete' package and then see their contract fulfilled. Maybe I'm just pissed at what I'll term a mild to potentially severe amount of misrepresentation on varying auto parts including those for our own and other marquees who have not been immune to the courts actions. I'd like to see some vendors held more accountable. Won't delve further as this is a fun forum/home and not the appropriate venting outlet IMO.

"I don't know about the axleshaft angles though, if they can be too severe during lots of squat" I wasn't questioning strength of the halfshafts necessarily......for maximum straightline traction you want your tire perfectly square to the pavement (ie. zero camber), if it squats to +3 or more degrees camber (which a Z and ZX can do) then your tire is no longer planting it's best contact patch for traction. Tweaks like this to gain max traction so your max corner exit squat (road racer) yields best traction will make a difference to a competitive driver and are tweaks pros make good money for dialing in. Perhaps drag tires are softer and more tolerant to tire geometry to traction surface but I know above is true for roadracing tires etc.

Sounds great Mark , big power ALWAYS sounds good What are your intended uses/priorities for this Z Dream? (you asked for comments and without your hopes we can only comment "Yup, power's great..") Is this a sbc or bbc or....if sbc and NA then some rather sweet headers and appropriate exhaust will be required to fit the bill. Traction/suspension/cage/brakes etc will all be relevant to the above needs. I've always enjoyed your sig line and have a spin on it..speed also kills so therefore brakes must improve life , till you're speeding again of course (wondering what other gremlins are yet to arrive..)

Rick-man: -are you positive your pressure guage is on the correct side of your regulator? If so and your regulator isn't altering fuel pressure then it's not working and you require a different one (assuming your regulator is for correct pressure range & guage is working). -is your fuel tank 'pressure' positive (expansive) for certain? or possibly a vaccuum?

FWIW, I searched here just a couple of weeks ago for a friend and found varying input shaft diameters and lengths b/t Ford and Chevies from a prior thread with same purpose. As you say, I'm sure it can be done but BLKMGK had stated the stangs were munching F*rd T5's so it might not be so worthwhile.

Dave, your pics appear to show about 2" of spacing from motor to Xmember including the mount itself which is very similar to my setup. I know my R&P clearance requirements are different but I've shaved my oilpan and massaged the rack mounting points such that I don't think our engines are sitting too differently. Yours might be 3/4" lower than mine? What type of air cleaner (ie. dropbase) and size filter do you run? I've always run a drop base with 14x2 but once I space down my Xmember and tweak mounts a little more I plan to go to a different cold air setup.

Ziggy, that's exactly what I have. The Chevy mounts bolt directly to my Xmember with their single tapped hole (approprite bolt/washer installed from underneath) with flat aluminum spacers (to clear my pan) placed between the actual Chevy mount and Chevy block. Depending on your spacer thicknesses you may have to open up the Xmember hole to allow bolting up the Chevy mount. My current 'high' location to clear oilpan to my R&P manual steering requires ~2.25" of spacers per side just by memory (and actual chevy spacer was perhaps .5-0.7" thick or so?, can measure if you want...email me personally in case I miss your post if desired). This spring I"ll be lowering my motor to integrate that mod at same time as new headers/exhaust.

"I think you should ..my adjustable TC Rods to give you some added positive caster for those 1320 runs!... complete KIT for Zcars Mike Kelly" Mike, he's running a 280ZX for which their is NOT complete master kit offered. Do you have 280ZX TC rods available now? Any pics? Last we talked you hadn't yet so I'm likely going a local route with a fella who's already done some ZX ones and is 10 minutes away which I can't pass up. Vince, the MSA springs will be too soft up front if you want stable higher speed braking without noticeable nosediving IMO and the progressive rear setup you're talking (that is progressive right?) will be slower to react with it's progressive nature (ie. you won't have 250 lb/in spring rate RIGHT AWAY). It will also squat a fair bit further than non-progressives as all the softer coils will compress first. If you don't mind the time delay and can still setup your rear alignment so you have minimum camber at full squat for maximum traction (hard to do with much rear spring compression happening) then they'll suit you OK, otherwise I'd reccomend against it. Depending on your desired ride height it may be very stable as is. I've dropped mine a bit and am going to use some caster/camber plates to neutralize camber back to OEM and then IF needed I'll go to some extra caster. Only if needed as it's shown some slower lap times when not needed with extra tire heat when dialed in to excess. Great to have Mike's alternatives when needed for our Xtreme rides:) I can easily setyou up with all items you're looking at including bushings/struts/coilovers etc. I also have some stock on the discontinued rear 280ZX illumina struts. Drop me a private email for any quotes/personal q's etc.

"Or, and I don't think anyone has done this, but I don't see why it wouldn't work, get Ross's adapters, and weld your 240 companion flanges to them" Yes, my adaptors work in the same fashion with 240Z companion flanges and a 240 set has already been done. To ensure a proper centering etc I sell all adaptors welded up to companion flanges (either purchased used ones or your own sent in) so my machinist can do them all with his aligning fixtures.

980 mak, all 280ZX hoods fit up the same way so it's easy to interchange them. Only venting styles/methods differ AFAIK. I had the early hood and swapped to a turbo style hood. I don't prefer the style at all but couldn't ignore the fact that it would pass more air. I have a spare new factory turbo hood I've been keeping for a 'modified' project someday that I might part with if you're interested, drop me a line off list if you are. Or a friend likely has a few used ones availabe in decent shape if interested. (we're not that far from you )

"i.e. what are the best-boost-for-the-buck?" 1) Carb and timing tuned up if not already optimized (easy power in timing and mixture), both you can potentially play with yourself 2) Cam kit (assuming valve springs in good shape, if not they must be replaced as no cam will make up for them) 3)if above two go well or are done then an intake, should be able to find one used easily as chevy intakes are being swapped ALL the time good luck

Terry, is that still using a PCV valve? Your description reminds me of the pseudo high RPM vaccuum pump setups done on high winding dragstrip mills. Added 6hp on a 600hp setup in a few magazine articles. I haven't seen a setup like that on any street driven rides myself. Ron, you don't need a smog pump etc to have an effective PCV system. One breather on one side and your PCV valve on the other w/ the PCV hooked up to the appropriate port. Your exhaust will not accomplish full vaccuum draw out of your crankcase at lower rpm's etc and unless you have lots of blowby the pressure will build...

Hmm, I'm using some generic late 70's or 80's throttle cable. Pinned to top of my go pedal and fixed with a small plate at my firewall its the correct length to my adjustable linkage setup at my EFI (formerly edelbrock carb). Very cheap and easy to replace if need be.