Modern Motorsports Ltd

Zmaize, yes the 280ZXT CV shafts fit perfectly into the Z31 R200 clutch type LSD:)

Yes. All 70-83 UJ style halfshafts are flanged on both ends. Only variation is 280ZX turbo cars (and some 2+2's some here have commented on) that have the CV axles. These have an integral/combined splined portion at the diff side that goes straight into the diff with no flange at all on the diff side. The same CV flanges have a more robust flange at the hub side with a large diameter (ie. stronger) bolt circle with 6 bolts vs. the UJ style smaller bolt circle with 4 bolts. The CV units were truly designed to withstand a lot more punishment.

You should be able to have your Lt1 case rebuilt with a high amperage winding/setup. Standard chevy cases can be easily done and I'd assume yours could as well. Depending on the size of your case your local rebuilder can build it for some very respectable amps. Local large builder I checked out can do up to 200A's and above.

I got one that mounts my alt. down low beside my harmonic balancer.......I too run a swp (Stewart). Their's a handy compact/strong Transdapt bracket, no PN handy as I never did scare it up. Here's a pic of where mine's mounted. http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=001067 And to answer Lones q' I missed in August......their's nothing at the top of my rad for support . I 'just' set it on two alum. angle brackets I mounted to my lower rad. surround and then had two flanges welded it's side tanks to which I put 2 holes per side thru my rad surround with bolts/nuts and rubber bushings from a rad shop with copper sleeves.

A friend is interested in Ground Control's Advance struts for his Z (full out road racer with slicks). I've seen almost zero feedback/discussion on these, one bit I'm aware of is one BMW M3 roadracer had some ongoing 'leaks' with them a while back. Another Z racer felt they were a good strut and fine value (vs. next level). GC's Advance Strut Thanks in advance

"I'm really needing some help here, guys. I need at least some starting dimensions ....." Sorry I missed your posting Bill, if anyone ever has to have a response from someone you can always drop them a personal email via the icon beside our name when we post. (there are very few that catch all forum postings and I suspect a few of them have the 3k award) Drop me a line on email and I'll measure it up later this week.

I know a few have used the camaro core successfully, it did NOT work for me just for what it's worth. After a few minutes of idling it would climb steadily with my flexalite 2250cfm fan running. Just my .0001c US/.02c CD. A Griffin/Howe etc are ~180 and twice the rad IMO, just an option. I much prefer more rad and less fan......works better when the ee gremlins strike (which they have on occasion).

Lee, lots of info on this already in the forums 'search' function top right will yield lots. In short, JTR mostly applies but you have zero setback on a 280ZX as the firewall to crossmember is 3" less in length/distance. It still yields great weight distribution like a Z, just a different front geometry. Dave (howdy Dave! was wonder how you been!) pointed out some steering influences on your motor location. A tweaked oilpan can help in that area as well. Dave, how're you and your Z doing? (Dave gave me LOTS of help years back) Mines progressed a lot since we last talked some 5 or more years back. 'state of the ZX' last August.

No sweat LJ and thanks for clearing that up, with my reasonable number of customers to keep track, and many of whom I haven't met in person, I'm quite careful on interpreting email/forum posts as its not always apparent what's humour and what's not. When you have limited info it's hard to inferr a personality and joke like old buds sometimes. I've got over 4 'Toms' as customers and at least 3 other repeated first names and amongst those some have similar last names so I don't wade into the humour ring as fast as I used to as it's pretty easy to miss the gun on occassion. I offer lots of things right now but so far I'm not enabled to offer any credit . Good luck and may your money tree grow quickly

"Ross with the CV swap what kind of hp numbers can the setup with stand" Stony, I can't honestly say as IMO, the CNC piece I make will be the last piece to brake in the system. So it most likely comes down to your wheel studs, stub axles, CV axles, rear diff, driveshaft joints etc etc.....at least that's my take on it. Scottie ran it with his 500/500+ combo with no trouble at all repeatedly. I don't think any of us have much experience in the 500+ hp or torque level with Datsun setups????

Renn, my front setup with 13" Brembo rotors bolts on using those 5lug hubs you have, just an option (once your hubs are setup with larger OD ARP's for strength). A pic or two on my web below. Out back it can be as simple as redrilling your current 4lug rotors to 5lug once your stub axles are done as I did and end effect leaving rear brakes intact, or you can buy new 5 lug rotors and swap calipers as Mike mentions.

Rickey, is a soft suspension your main goal? Any other 'combined' uses you want to wrap into the result? What mods if any are on the car now? (ie. sway bars etc? OEM swaybars are one of the best to keep a softer ride IMO, and if you want it a bit tighter then stiffer bars AND keep the softer springs/struts). Are the coilovers strictly for wheel clearance? If all soft then I'd choose stockish strut inserts like a base KYB or Gabriela and 150/175 lb/in front/rear spring rates. Higher rear rate as I assume you load it up on occasion and that'll prevent the rear squat on trips etc that can wear out your inner tire edge and in short order destroy what were otherwise fine tires (ask me how I know....1500miles loaded with tools and 2 tires shot 6 yrs or more ago...arggg). As you want an 8" long spring I might even lean towards a 200 lb/in as the 8 is more sensitive to bottoming out as it has less travel to coilbind vs. a 10" spring and struts don't like being coilbound:( Depends on your roads...if you don't get any sharp bumps/surprises then you don't have to fear bind as much. They can be had from several sources including myself (Modern Motorsports Ltd). Some pics of some hardware I offer is on my web, URL below. PS Z owners have cleared 8's without coilovers, you just need to space them correctly. A friend will be selling a set of 16x8 3pc Epsilons shortly that fit great without coilovers, if he hasn't sold them yet I'll likely post them on my web as they're a fine wheel any Z enthusiast could enjoy, 4lugs to boot. Email me if you want details. If you have wheels that clear OEM perches then we can put you into comfortable springs in the 10" or 12" length for true comfort and ride quality for your needs would improve substantially.

Paul, I love the KVR stuff as well. One racing customer wanted to try them for track and I rec'd against it but for $40 he wanted to try...he melted them right thru in some hardcore wheel to wheel training. KVR's have worked great for me and my 13" setup for street and track and is my mainstay pad going out with the rear brake brackets Mike and I finally now have:) I've heard a Porterfield R4S compound might be available via word of email etc, but not something I knew for sure. For casual track use I'm sure most are fine, I think Davy's talking once you're getting in the groove and going more hardcore on the track if a HAWK or Porterfield option is available. I have no idea other than the R4S word of email etc, not a caliper I'm overly familiar with.

Mike kZ, I know mine drains back somewhat but to what degree I'm not sure. Have you tried turning your key from off to on 2 or 3x's allowing your fuel pump to run it's 3 seconds each time, to see if that primes your pump long enough to load up the fuel line adequately? If that doesn't solve it or is unsuitable you may want to put a momentary switch in to prime your fuel pump, not an uncommon feature in a custom rod. You may have an existing button/knob you're not using that can be 'cloaked' to serve this function. Or you could source out a check valve for your fuel line or pump which do exist.

Ljohnson, I don't understand your post? I don't hold any 'credit' for or from you in any way. Or do you just mean you need funds that you don't have right now for parts? I typically do business discussions/transactions offlist to reduce the NC to others, email me privately at mailto:rossc@shaw.ca for any followup please.

Danno, no reason not to keep it. Handy little shield to minimize material getting at your seals. Doesn't take long to modify it to make it fit so may as well keep it. Same function as the backing plate up front which I keep when possible. Out back if you go to disks then the stub axle backside is more exposed and thus the 'shield' certainly can't hurt. I keep them on my 'prepped' 5lug stub axles I've been supplying.

"the engine has to turn over a few times until the pressure is back up" Mike, is your EFI wired up so it runs your fuel pump for 2-3 seconds after you turn your key to 'on'? Proflo is designed that way and mine works fine. If it's been a week or more (Xmas)then I just turn my key to on 2 or 3 x's to get it pressurized up. Typical day to day I often don't even wait the 2-3 seconds it would run if I turned to 'start', fires right up. (although my motors never 'fire' as quick as first few months, at that time it's almost zero turnover and it's running...always get's a little longer with hours on the engine (like a 1/2 second or so)).

Anthony, if you want your exact pair of companion flanges back then allow a few days for the above to occur as I don't visit my machinist daily. If you're simply sending your flanges as core replacements then I have pairs already welded to 280Z flanges that can ship within 2 days of your payment, assuming your companion flanges will be enroute. If your situation ever requires 'next-day' service just let me know and you'll be accomodated.

'gearhead240z': if you already have an R200 install done and functioning (ie. R200 halfshafts etc) then you only need the $180 option from me if you send your companion flanges (small lighweight flange on inside edge of rear hub that halfshaft bolts to), $25 more for hardware as noted. PS I sell the quaiffe's as well. Jerry at Unitrax seems to have a good rep for install/setup.

240SX won't work with the maxima bracket, totally different offset. Part of the big reason Mike's done his own weld on brackets for ages with the 240SX caliepr and that Mike & I now have a bolt on CNC bracket available. Maxima wasn't ideal and feedback (including this forum) said a better mousetrap was desired. They're now done and available and shipping in order that payments were received, 88-94 240SX rear's with 11.4" Z31 front rotors. Enjoy your R&D for your planned custom setup, frankly I'm glad it's done for this bracket!

"ROSS C, how much would a complete set up be for the CV conversion?" $300US includes - the adaptors precision tig welded by my machinist to a pair of 280Z companion flanges -280Z stub axles with the inner collars -complete hardware kit which includes 280ZXT stub nuts (preferred OEM pinch style) You can save $100 if you supply your own companion flanges to me and don't require stub axles from myself. The CV axles you have to source yourself as I simply can't source enough good used ones to meet demand and new/rebuilts are unavailable from suppliers I've come across to date. A complete rear OEM Nissan bearing kit is $120US including synthetic grease (so you never have to do it again ) is an option.

You can skip those 'stubs' entirely and go straight to CV halfshafts if you want. Eliminates that flanged connection at the diff, both U joints and results in a rock solid setup without breakage concerns. CV halfshafts have that diff side 'stub/insert' built into the halfshaft so the only bolted connection is at the hubside. Just an option.

The standard Hooker Super Comp 1-5/8's are working fine on my Dad's Lt1/240Z. They don't match the ports out of the box, my dad modified the port entry (head is D port, header was round AIR) to match the head and he hasn't had gasket sealing issues at all. They're a nice ceramic coated piece. I recall they were snug to some wires but I got him some 'booties' for Father's Day and they did the trick.

For true hardcore 1320 launches is the tokico stiffness desireable? I know it's been discussed about launch geometry etc............tokico's don't get 'soft' at all like a 90/10 drag strut etc...on their 'softest' setting a tokico is still somewhat stiff. Fine by handling/road racing types, not sure how perfect it is for diehard 1320? (don't think theirs much of an option/alternative though right?)

First off, I had a similar thing with one spark plug hole/thread in my RPM heads that after a couple years wasn't 'happy'. I cleaned it etc similar to what you did to no avail. Then you can make a thread cleaner by filing V grooves in the spark plug threads (crosswise across the threads) a spark plug and put some slighty grease on the threads. Gently chase it into the hole and the grooves can pickup any dirt/filings and the grease will hang onto them. I did that progressively (go as far as is comfortable/remove plug and clean it/grease it back up/go back down the hole/etc etc...) and it's been fine since. I've always put either a small amount of anti-sieze OR synthetic oil on my plug threads. The synth. oil is handy being right on my dipstick whether at home or at the track and checking a plug or three and has never coked up on me like dyno juice. IF it had a plug in their successfully before and it came out without you finding a HUGE mess in the hole it's hopefully alright with only above easy efforts. Good luck.