Modern Motorsports Ltd

It's not necessarily the size that counts , a 4 piston caliper with 1.5" pistons exerts equal force as a floating caliper with two 1.5" pistons on one side assuming pad sizes/line pressures etc are equal. Many late model PBR's are 1.75" pistons like the LS1. Z06's run an updated PBR setup and I know a few personally that have racing experience and have tracked that car with only applause for their brakes (LS1 & Z06). Nothing against multipiston calipers etc....I often feel we're mislead by chasing 6 pistons etc when the factory's done a fine job already. Another part that can be misleading is pad sizes on floating calipers are typically the same and often larger than the physical caliper itself as caliper only has to house the pistons. 4 piston fixed calipers are physically a lot larger for same pistons etc as the caliper also houses the brake pad so both may have equal potential while one may appear quite differently. Picture the entire 1LE setup (as pads go nearly end to end of what's pictured) wrapped by a caliper and it would be quite visually different. No knock on your calipers intended at all, if I had 'em I'd likely be looking to mount them as well , it's always nice mounting extra aluminum

Mike I got your message last Sunday saying you'd call on Monday and hopefully have them done...Friday now and I never heard back as promised, any update on this aspect of your contribution? thanks. Danno, Owen & others (~15), I may as well update you with Mike's info from a phone chat I had with him just this Wednesday. Mike plans to get to making the ebrake extensions and DIY schematics this wknd. The extensions will include the hardware which Mike's also up on. Once those are done quite a few very patient Z enthusiasts will be happy to be able to complete their rear disk swap ebrake hookup. He passed on some differences between early and late cable hookups that I'm not crystal clear on yet, but that's why that's been his baby from the start.

-are you doing it with centre/transfer punches and progressive drill bit sizes? If so that's about as accurate as you can get doing it without actual machinists tools I suppose. I drilled mine by hand but have some mild vibes that might be attributed to the drilling or old bushings..I'm replacing them with a machinists set done on the rotary table just for my own piece of mind when I do my upcoming rear control arm swap. -2 of the 4 holes are very close to the edge, from the DIY's I've read they typically leave those holes as is and it can be very thin at that outer edge (ie. 1/16" or less depending on your flange/drilling accuracy/knurl size) -all of my 'prepped' 5lug axles have 'eyelets' welded up on those two tight sides to provide complete safety. It's likely not an issue as the full stud head has to pull out or shear laterally which would be quite a failure but I like 'em welded up nicely as I get a little anal about safety details that are easy to add at nominal cost and of simple benefit. Especially with parts we very rarely if ever service such as these...if you've pulled 'em once you don't want to do it again -I typically use 7/16's ARP's on my 'prepped' stubs and on occassion 1/2" for special app's . Keep in mind what you plan to mount on them and whether or not spacers may be required. Slipon's are commonly used on my prepped rears FWIW. I prefer them to bolt ons but you want to be sure your holes are dead plumb as it takes very little eccentricity/out of plumb over a 3" stud to be noticeable on a nice custom made snug fitting spacer or redrilled rotor. Here's a pic of one pair. You can see the modified dust seal reinstalled in the side pic as well. Those are 3" ARP 7/16's studs which will accomodate up to a 1.5" spacer with mag wheels and a rotor included. HTH, any more q's feel free.

So anyone ever used those flanges pictured up above? The flared 'bell' flanges???

How did you isolate it? I used very high grade rubber (bridges sit on this stuff;^) ~1/2" thick and wrapped it fully around my fuel pump and then used two oversize stainless/hose clamps to fasten it to my OEM bracket. Quiet as can be. I've had loud pumps before and heard them in other rides and they drive me nuts. After this new exhaust it may actually be back to 'sleeper' status.

Wes, their are a few running them. I'm not clear on what they had to modify internally if anything....I even sold Dan Baldwin his set but they worked as is and I didn't know if anything had been done internally. Here's one thread and their are others if you do a search http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000207

Scottie, does your steering setup still have a splined joint anywhere in it? If so did you leave it 'loose' until everything else was bolted down tight? If not it might be trying to 'stretch' while bolted up tight and something else is trying to accomodate the desired 'stretch'? Just a thought.......

Clint, did you bench bleed the MC? Tap all calipers/items tinkered with with a rubber mallet to help release air bubbles? In the last 5 yrs all I've used to bleed brakes has been the one way valved bleeder screws, a rubber hammer and my foot. Maybe I've just been lucky but I don't yet buy into the various 'bleeding' optimizers available. Just my bleeder screws. Sorry we missed each other when you were in town...I'd hoped we'd hook up but figured you'd be busy with the marathon and other distractions

Thanks, I've been thinking on this one before and I'd likely have a new flange cut which matches my edelbrock rpm ports. The header flange is roundport and my headers square...might be able to just port the header flange already on them depending on what port size they are now. Thanks! I'd pretty much assumed I'd have some custom work done and get them recoated once I was satisfied they were working as desired. I much prefer the weld 'once' solution you suggest for it's simplicity. I'll have the O2 sensors put in at the same time:) Related to my potential task....what's the best bang/buck sawzall??

1fastz, I do big brakes & coilovers as well. Feel free to drop me a line. We can go over your setup/goals and devise a suitable setup for your needs if you'd like. I typically only use PBR style DOT approved aluminum calipers which are in use on many race setups for heavier cars so stand up great on ours with great service life on daily's like my own.

OK, I'm finally going to get going on my resolution to improve upon my current restrictive header/exhaust system. I've got some Hooker 2100's enroute (1-5/8's shorties) which I've driven in enough combo's to be quite happy with, especially once on my mill. On my 280ZX my drivers side steering rod forced me to move the drivers side collector outward ~1.5" by bending/torch etc....OK job but not eager to do again as the same handy tools aren't available and I'd like a different solution. So who's got what ideas? An angle milled flange, even welded up to new headers allowing me to port match and a 10-15 degree angle should give me all the 'outward' displacement I need......then spot milling on front side so bolts sit flat or....milled 'reverse angle washers'? A spacer at my header/head interface with a milled angle on it........~10 degrees would give me near an inch-1.5" depending on how long your headers are (1" outward per each ~6" in length)..........then I need a reverse angle on the other side so the bolts sit flat as well.............. Local guy did a million dollar looking aluminum angle milled 'spacer' ~1" thick to just what I'm suggesting......and he made reverse angled 'washers' to sit under his bolts......but he's a machinist and his TOTAL Z suspension is all adjustable heims..........as much $ in his heims alone as my whole suspension likely. Any and all ideas welcome....my steering will NOT easily take an extra Ujoint as only alternative route takes it right thru my motor mount which does not easily have room to accomodate this. And has anyone ever used the 'bell' ends on their headers or pipes? The compression style/no gasket ends? I'm wondering why not as they just look more leak free and friendlier to re and re.....do they just cost more? Here's a pic of the flanges I'm talking about...they seem easier to seal/service and less sensitive to 'precise' geometry? The header on the far right is the 2100 I'm getting.

Scotty, I'd recommend having your wheels checked to ensure they're straight. I've had exactly what you describe and it was a very slightly bent wheel. Bent wheels can still balance easily, to be diagnosed they have to LOOK at the wheel when spinning and 99% just put the hood down and let it spin.....I had a slight bend in one rim years ago on an old set and once it was fixed no vibes.......I can't explain how it got stronger, perhaps it shook a weight? As well I've found new tires (especially R compounds) require a rebalance quite often within a few hundred miles/break in....they seem to settle in on the rims or something to that effect. HTH

Sure I've got the rotors, you sure you want metalmasters? I'll guarantee a set of KVR's for you

Danno, Owen & others (~15), I may as well update you with Mike's info from a phone chat I had with him just this Wednesday. Mike plans to get to making the ebrake extensions and DIY schematics this wknd. The extensions will include the hardware which Mike's also up on. Once those are done quite a few very patient Z enthusiasts will be happy to be able to complete their rear disk swap ebrake hookup. He passed on some differences between early and late cable hookups that I'm not crystal clear on yet, but that's why that's been his baby from the start.

Welcome! FWIW, my mild 327 280zx fetched low 5 second 0-60's all day long. Lots of info on 280ZX swaps via 'search'. My present setup should now be low 4's.

" The only problem is that you will have to remove the axles to install them because they are too long to fit in between the back of the axle and the hub." I assume you're talking the rear axle stubs? You can remove your drum and find one 'deep' point in which to remove and replace all of your studs....just rotate each time to the same point for the new stud. Might have to drill one hole in your backing plate but still no big deal. Did those studs fit in your holes as is or did you have to redrill your holes larger?

" what other kind of brake upgrades are you aware of besides the toyota swap,i'm tryng to avoid that 'cos it will affect my wheel offset after it is installed." The swap alone will not affect your wheel offset, the rotors are spaced inwards on backside of hub. The front hub face stays as is...only if you had a caliper to wheel interference might you then space your wheels outward. I haven't checked, but are 280ZX OE springs similar diameter to Z OE springs? Might find some half decent ZX springs you can cut and slice if cheaps the route. I was v. cheap once (now just quite cheap ) and swapped in two different sets of used parts yard springs from lower mileage 2+2 280ZX's...got me thru one year of driving till I could start affording 'new' parts on occasion.

It's your front wheels landing back on the ground Seriously though, likely diff mount or trans mount/input assuming all rear struts/shocks are all snugged up, nothing loose. I've seen quite a few trashed R200 rear mounts from 280ZX's and Z31's.

Mike, you got any info/answers to respond to the q's asked above by a few of us in response to your feedback request? degree of install required, can it be done by a DIY with normal tools or...if not what cost? /service life/other hipo uses currently proven/warrantee?.....amongst others As per our phone discussion yesterday, I'm glad you plan to get to making the ebrake extensions and DIY schematics this wknd Once those are done quite a few very patient Z enthusiasts will be happy to be able to complete their rear disk swap ebrake hookup. I'll update the other related ebrake threads later if you haven't done so by then.

Al, does it shimmy at slow speed braking? ie. just rolling up to lights/stopsign? Warped rotors is first detected at slow/mild braking IME, once it's at higher speeds then it's further along IME. Your caliper pistons moving freely I assume? Quite rare but a pebble can get caught b/t pad and rotor and cause some odd action....seen that. Good luck!

"Which gears came in the '87-'89 turbo z's?" 3.7's "would the early gears bolt on to the later LSD" Yes, with the use of a simple set of bushings to use the 10mm bolts thru the 12mm carrier hole. I've offered before, if anyone needs them and has a 12mm carrier and a 10mm bolt, just send me specs and I'll have the bushings made up.

R200 and R180 axles are different. I'm not familiar with all the pilot flanges, never had any issues in swapping many diffs.....just kept my original R200 pilot and used on all others I put in. If you have an early Z then you want the r200 mustache bar as you say. Diff's don't typically come with axles, perhaps you thought the side 'stubs' would be in the diff? Those work with UJ axles, not the CV setup. Good luck!

David, a few of us have rattled the keys many a time on 280ZX V8 setups. A forum search will yield lots of info, John Hagg has a TPI setup in his 280ZX although TPI won't be too different from any other sbc setup, might have improved hood clearance perhaps? Whatever q's you have left, feel free to fire away. If you haven't already, you may want to narrow some objectives prior to jumping at a specific motor. Deciding on overall goals, then requirements necessary to meet them will help the complete project. A TPI setup may suit your needs or it may fall short, best to know earlier

" BTW, if something in here doesn't make sense it's cause its 3AM" Congrats BTW, vaccuum advance is for idle and non-WOT mannerisms.......it'll help your transition throttle (ie. from cruise or mild to WOT will be sharper in general) but pure WOT should be the same with or without the vac advance hooked up as at WOT you're running full mechanical and initial advance with NO vaccuum advance AIR. (ie. ie. 10 initial and 26 mechanical would give you 36 degrees at WOT regardless of your vac. can, that's why timing is generally set with vac. advance disconnected) Some vaccuum kits kick in TOO much vac advance and it'll knock on you......crane kit did that too me right off and didn't adjust down far enough....I got a neihoff vac. can for exact advance I wanted (10 or 12 AIR) prior to current EFI.

No it won't.....not without some conversion piece that we haven't been made aware of yet.