Modern Motorsports Ltd

Miles: KVR says they require zero warmup...in my experience & opinion they're a bit cold on 1st or 2nd stop and fine after that.....they just get better and better above normal temps as well. After the instructional days and events I've been at I just routinely tap my brakes anyhow to see they work each time I head out anyhow..... Speed kills so brakes breathe life

"Anyway, what's a good brake pad for this caliper which is streetable, but can still stand the occassional hard stop" KVR carbon fibre 'sport' compound, allowed me to stay sane till I completed my brake upgrade. ZERO fade even while I was boiling away fluid (in my experience at lapping days) was my experience. And incredibly friendly/flat rotor wear. A 510 owner bought my complete brake setup when I upgraded and he was stoked...pads/rotors were 2 yrs old and ~70% remaining on pads and rotors were flat and unturned (front and rear). ~$55 delivered to your door (I'm a distributor). Scottie used them with success as well with his Z calipers AIR.

An LT1 would suit your goals quite nicely but theirs lots of other setups that could work as well. It's not 'heavy', my V8 280ZX is lighter than stock with a rear weight BIAS and is not stripped at all. I actually added power windows as it was something I'd always wanted V8's are nice IMO as it's cheap power and they're very resilient to being out of tune in my experience and they still spit out lots of power even then . The Lt1 is naturally well tuned out of the box etc....... I do lapping days etc in my ZX and quite enjoy any higher speed events I can enjoy search and bring on the q's

Great stuff! The LT1 is a helluva a Z package for tons of reasons...fits great too as you say. I love how my dad's LT1 swap finished out with easy cold-air/hood clearance etc etc. Looking fwd to pics!

Beware the A032R's are very darty on any uneven pavement (almost changing lanes against your will is not uncommon) and they're quite 'buzzy'/noisewise. Both factors if they're for street use. I drove 2000 miles to Thill and back as well as SIR and back with them, great traction wet or dry. If they weren't darty I'd run them as my normal streets as well. They show so little treadwear in street use and still stick'em nicely on the track (not winners circel but A1 for me) which I'm very fond of. I'd like to hear more Toyo feedback......

"You can adjust your ride with the different weight oil installed." ??? You playing with rebuilding your own OEM inserts??? I've only put oil in the strut tubes to help the heat dissipate faster and thus keeping the insert cooler overall/longer life etc.......never played with OEM inserts....just wrapped 'em up as fast as I could and junked 'em (hate that old gear/strut oil smell!)

Ditto what David and some others said. Business plan is king and paramount. It'll also help you see what is important and what isn't as far as cost/benefit ratio. (ie. does a dyno payoff in a 3bay shop, 4bay shop....they're costly when not running).

Place a mark on your insert at the height you want oil to go to....put some oil in your tube and dip your strut in as a dipstick. Pull your insert out and see how high your level is Keep in mind your strut must be kept upright once you start this procedure I used synthetic oil, can't recall why at present.

optimal for what? handling/straight line.... are they 6" or 7" (seen both as OEM dealer add ons) 215's max for 7's and 195's max for 6's for fine handling IMO,preferably less (215/60/14 is nice on a 7" to fit all needs)....less or more for other desires, 215's on a 7 will roll LOTS as will 205's on 6's

Mike, I thought they were 300ZX rotors? Bolt patterns don't really matter, just redrill to the 5 if that's what you can use them as. Otherwise ebay might be a fine spot unless a 240SX owner here needs them...

Their's a couple variations. One is your present size and the other is 11.4" as our rear disk CNC setup is packaged with. I'm not sure what year/month break down is which...once I got the right one I just stuck with that PN . I've emphasized the difference before because buyers often think they can get rotors cheaply but they're typically the small diameter from 'cheap' castings. Just call up whomever is supplying you and have them measure them up. Brembo has a superior finish on those BTW. (let along potential metallurgy differences) good luck

I have looked at them and conversed with friends that have run them here in the NW. As well as the AVS Sports, SZ50EP's, S02's, S03's etc of which I've run some myself and trusted friends the same and others. For my daily driving and trip (ie. all street uses) expectations myself and area friends/racers included have been dissapointed in the Supra's, Sports, RE730's and others. The S03's and SZ50EP's spoiled some of us and anything with noticeably less traction in wet conditions has become quite undesirable. Whether it's a hot/dry summer wknd and I'm doing a mountainous run or a wet fall day and I'm doing a fun route to head out fishing I like to enjoy my ride similarly with our high frequency of rain. (or I'm late heading for a ferry, it's pounding rain and I'm rushing along a poorly drained/puddled mountain highway!) If dry only was a greater preference I'd lean more to cheaper sets which wouldn't give up so much in dry performance (but sacrifice wet stick bigtime). The straight line and cornering comfort I had with the SZ50's has been unparalleled to date in a non-R compound tread. I feel it gives me that much more 'fun' factor in what can otherwise be quite long/taxing workdays and anything less makes me another commuter slowly doggin along I guess , I'd love to be able to slap on another set and do back to back wet runs linked to my Gtech output to see what wet traction is available in more treads. (My A032R's/Advans are great wet as well, surprised me how great they were). I've done SIR a few times in the wet and learned a lot more than I did in the dry Thanks for the ideer Paul, if I get an opportunity to 'test' them I'll take it up:) PS I've been prolonging my present tire replacement hoping their's a good $ option sides those above....

Vince, that's not a bolt on swap by any means. Others that have done it passed on that given an option of a current existing upgrade available (ie. SCCA's, my own etc) they'd have chosen the existing setup. As I recall Mark did it with 2pc rotors etc, so really he only used the 300ZX calipers which aren't anything too rare. If they bolted up easier they'd be worth pursuing but costwise it might become a wash. Guys get hung up on 4piston calipers all the time. A 4piston caliper with 1.5" diameter pistons is equivalent in force to a 2piston floating caliper with two 1.5" diameter pistons (and is typically lighter with greater outboard wheel clearance). If you've got the confidence, time and resources you can brew your own brakes if you wish. Otherwise drop me a line

"Im looking for a way to get as much power out of my 74 260Z as possible." Do you have a # range or performance target you're shooting for? Your top statement could mean 1000hp or 300hp and the answers differ greatly.....knowing what you want it to accomplish (ie. a 4 second 0-60, or a honduh killah, or a 1320 goal etc....) helps others give specific feedback. Any budget considerations are useful as well.

"How much more then bolt on is this?" Major NON bolt on and a PITA for an inferior handling suspension. Otherwise I Mike and I wouldn't have seen thru the rear disk setup we sell which makes an easy install of parts superior to the 280ZX setup available. And for the CV shafts I wouldn't have seen thru the CNC run of CV adaptors etc.......far easier IMO to do each package (brakes and CV's) as their own installs on your Z rear setup. The brake and handling results will be better than 280ZX (Z owners with the my Z rear disk setups now have BETTER rear brakes than my present 280ZX rears.....I have to do something about that 280ZX has a semi-trailing arm rear that isn't very easy to alter so becomes a PITA for handling improvements. Anyhow, the CV shafts are certainly a nice item to have. And the calipers may be good core trades for him or a 280ZX owner as they're pricey cores. And extra R200's on the shelf never hurt.

Yup ditto what Bill said

" my ENTIRE cooling system has been replaced. - any suggestions?" Tom, what water pump, Tstat are you running? Any reason to think you may have any blocked passages in your block at all? I assume you don't have any custom front end treatment severely limiting air incoming? And Dave's suggestions are common faults you can easily have; have you checked your plugs IMMEDIATELY after the condition that's making it run hot? Shut down while cruising if possible and pull over and see if they're running lean. Your overall timing curve all nailed down?

The bike raced was a 90ish Thunderace YZF 1000, word is mid 10s. The car was a twin Turbo 10 second LS1 FireHawk. Think of what that plant hooking could do in a Z Looks like the 4th gen is pulling on the bike right in the bikes powerband I don't condone that type of 'event' either but it's the movies and I enjoy watching movies on occasion:)

wheelie schmeelie (warning, 14Mb)

"finally got some pics online . shows the 2 lines for using the 240SX conversion onto a early car." Mike, can you elaborate a bit on your info? (too late to phone you tonight) A dozen customers just got their lines (as you know) and looking for install info.......Dave's the only one with them installed at present. So a 20" hardline M10x1.0 female to female is required in addition? I saw your webpics but guys wanting instructions don't play with brake lines routinely and thus prefer a little more info. Drivers side goes direct from caliper to T fitting and passenger side requires the hardline from T fitting to mounting point on body where the braided line ties in direct from pass. caliper? Thanks.....then all they need are the ebrake brackets & schematic.....whichever you roust up first Those ~30 Z fans who've received their rear disk packages to date are itching for completion to hit the roads now that springs here

"How would you get a Z to give you 30-50mpg @60mph?" A unmodified LT1EFI engine would fetch that 30mpg in a Z easily with lightfoot driving at your above speed. They get near that in 4th gen leadsled camaro's so it'd be a no brainer in a Z.

Myron, just read your thread after Mikes...wowsers, best of luck with everything. I'm VERY glad you got a near future surgery date. Waiting sucks and once he's had the operation it'll all be downhill from their a day at a time. Keep your pitcher's full (see my reply to Mike's thread) and may the force be with you and yours.

Mike, my prayers go out to you. I'm not overly religious in any way but do believe in a BIG unnamed God You're in the hardest state of any disruption at present, the "not knowing what's going on" in which you don't know what you have to deal with and hence can't plan how to deal with it. The work thing will sort itself out as you already did your homework appropriately, try to set it aside (not easy I know, had my own HR involvement/lawyers etc...my homework turned out to be appropriate as well ). As you say, THE priority is Donna. I often feel it's hardest for the caregiver (position my wife and family had to take on which they did in Olympic style, while I was on the opposite side) to deal with potential illness of a loved one. Their IS homework to be done in this arena as well which WILL help you out. You've hit one of the most important steps already by opening up and reaching out to others, something many can not do and this forces them to endure more stress and unknown than is necessary. I assume she's seeing an expert in that area of distress. (cancer rarely does cause pain, one pro it has or pain has...either way) Second opinions or reviews don't hurt either. A supposed oversite by a radiology head saw me develop full blown cancer for a 2nd time which led to a BMT almost 5 yrs ago now (approaching 5 yr mark, which is big in C terms). Their is some info out their on 'care for the caregiver', my wife organized a seminar on this as part of a seminar series she initiated last year. 'Bernie Siegel' has some fine books including "How to Live Between Office Visits : A Guide to Life, Love and Health ". I haven't read that one but some of his others. Be sure to refill your 'glass' often enough, if you empty your glass completely then you have nothing left for yourself and hence you let down your Donna. Do the most you can for her (as I'm sure you are, keep in mind she may not be inclined to ask for help but she may greatly benefit from 'extras' you can offer to reduce her workload or stress) and meantime keep up your reserves so you don't hit Empty. Hopefully both of you receive more info shortly to help you move toward a plan of action. Best of luck Bud

"i am still having problems cooling my car. I currently have a single 7/8 core aluminum /plastic radiator out of a 86 fullsize chevy with a 4.3. " I had that rad as well and my car overheated at a prolonged idle in mild weather. My griffin (24x19, 2x1.25" rows)with no shroud and simple flex-a-lite was/is excellent. No issues with overheating at all now. I will do a shroud up some day as I know it'll only help more but certainly not needed on my daily use or lapping days to date.

"...what do I use in a R200? Break the bank and put a Quaife? Are there any deals to be had on these (quaifes)? Options? thanks folks" The physical Quaife unit alone retails for $1200 typically and a full rebuild(all bearings/seals/shims etc)/setup runs $500+ for an R200. I offer a package including A to Z whereby the quaife unit and the complete rebuild/setup cost is $1550 if you supply a good core R200 (ie. decent gears) Setup is done by a very competent shop. Some info written up on my site if interested.