Modern Motorsports Ltd

Bill, I'm not sure how well it fits. Mine is a custom U piece that goes up into my tunnel...I prefer the JTR style for ease of re and re for any servicing etc. I do HAVE a JTR mount at home I can measure up for you if that would help. And this is just cause I can't resist it... hehe

"Ford V-8 soleniod. " Pick/ask for a heavy duty one from their biggest truck motor or similar...mines stood up fine and is a great relay from which all my juice is distributed. (and if your battery is tucked away mid-car this point can be your 'boost' point should it ever be needed...been very handy for me to boost and be boosted on occasion)

FWIW, the 60's falcon 4x4.5's are generally +15->+20mm in aftermarket choices.

quote: Originally posted by rogeliogarza78280z: ok so i don't need it but it would be better ??? By 'new' do you mean a new r200 or a ford 9" or....by 'better' do you mean improved traction?/reduced maintenance/improved gearing or...their's a few here running various rear diff setups. Many of us have different goals/desires to fulfill with parts swaps and letting us know yours can help our feedback. 500hp for 1320 only or daily or .......

You mean strictly cross-drilled vs. non-drilled rotors in same physical rotor size? Little to NONE if not less braking force. Noone has proved 'outgassing' is an issue needing to be solved for our braking uses IMO. What are you looking to improve? fade resistance or braking modulation/force etc? Drilling and slotting reduce frictional surface as well as rotor mass so decrease fade resistance in that regard and available friction. Now some brembo rotors are cast with the holes in and those are a nice piece not prone to cracking at all as the metal orients itself as it cools when cast whereas drilling/slotting breaks the 'grain/orientation' of the surface (similar to forging/benefits etc). They're used a lot for show and on racecars, AFAIK (I'm sure Mike has more info) race use drilled rotors are usually drilled/stress relieved AND sometimes cryo treated as well. If for mostly show/looks then not a factor if your brake system isn't taxed too high. It can be a maintenance issue keeping the slots and crossdrilled holes clean and free of debris. I think they look great...just not convinced on function.

As kcw6fs mentioned, it's good to stout power levels. The UJ halfshafts can be a weak link that a few here have exposed. You can run 280ZXT CV shafts as an upgrade, noone's blown them up yet that I'm aware of. More info on them in 'search' or on my webpage listed below. You'll likely be interested in a posi setup which is usually a 4/87 to 12/89 300ZXT clutch posi diff (except the ivory/white SE/SS model which is viscous and not a bolt in affair) or a quaiffe posi setup. Some quaiffe info on my page.

yup, weights are interesting, it'd be fun to see a hp consumption/rotating weight analysis. Many 17" rims are mid 20 lbs/wheel and higher in the 'generally' available street wheels. 16lbs or less for one wheel vs. 25+ for another HAS to have some effect. Whether it's of any significance to us is what I'd like to see proven. FWIW, standard Riken 16x7's are ~23lbs each, 17x8 momo arrows are 23-25lbs each, Z32TT 16x7.5's are 16lbs as are 16x8 RX7TT wheels.

CableSrv: -the 'natural' 5lug bolt pattern we normally swap to is 5x4.5 (mustang/many imports etc) using 300ZX hubs up front and redrilling our rear stub axles for 5lug -I have a rear brake setup using 11-3/8's rotors that retains ebrake use (YES! brackets just being finished/a pair in hand now) -up front their's a few options of which I have a 13" setup one can run with 5lug -for LSD have you sourced one out yet? I can offer a quaiffe worm gear/torsen style center section that you can have setup with your choice of gears etc in an R200 differential, alternately some have installed R230's (viscous units from 300ZXTT's or Infiniti Q45's, a nice unit that somes in heavier than an R200), the R200 can be used with 280ZXT CV halfshafts in conjunction with an adaptor setup I offer (been used on Scotties car and tolerated 500+ft-lbs easily) -their's a few options and info, I'm not always in here frequently but email is ALWAYS serviced so feel to drop me a line personally

quote: Originally posted by Quicker: What is the stock bolt pattern of a 240Z, and what is the most offset you can have? Thanks, Mike Mike, all Nissan Z cars are on a 4.5" bolt circle with 70-83 cars all being 4x4.5" (4 stud on a 4.5" bolt circle). Z31 turbo's are 5lug as are Z32's (and possibly later Z31's?). Stock offset is right about zero. By 'most' do you mean tires pushed out? Depends on a few items: -rim, offset controls tire centrelin placement and clearance to strut or fender -tire, overall width as related to rim above -fenders on your ride (and inner fenders/desire to modify/roll the lip or not), OEM or flared etc. Zero offset 16x7 will rub on outer fender at the rear if your fender is not rolled at all. Also search the forums/been discussed lots with lots of feedback on various combos. good luck and hope that helps

Mike, b/s depends on same items I listed above.....need more info.

Davy, some setups you do swap the intended sides like that. It's a bulletproof step to get them right though, either your ebrake arm is very close or interefering with your strut tube...or (with our setup anyhow) it's at 2 o'clock or 10 o'clock, side depending and happily headed for your ebrake cable with fine clearance to UJ/CV shafts/swaybar/strut tube etc. Our brackets are NOT symmetrical from side to side for those specific purposes, making them asymetrical resulted in the optimum clearances and ebrake geometry. It bumped costs but we figured for all this work we'd better get it right and make it easy for the end user.

Thanks Cash, I got your messages and will call you shortly. I've been working late and typically getting home at 7pm and later so once dinner (mandatory) is done I don't want to wake your household(hence my heavy email emphasis of late/not typical). I'll get my butt home this week to connect up Thanks for your patience.

"the price does seem a bit high for something that takes about 10 to 15 minuites to produce on a cnc machine" Actually it would be a lot more involved than letting a machine run for 10-15 minutes. That piece has at least two setups (ie. manual operations) after the aluminum has been sliced and you can visualize how much of the material is removed so material cost isn't cheap either. Having said that, AFAIK (Mike?) isn't the ebrake geometry quite poor with that setup? Tight turn on the cable? Anyhow, my website lists out pros/cons of 280ZX vs. 240SX setup for Z enthusiasts to decide for themselves (rotor size etc) Mike had a pair of OEM Maxima brackets which we could've knocked off easily enough if we wanted to (all design was obviously done as it exists) so one must figure/hope we were justified in ponying up our efforts to plan/design/prototype/market/finance/complete such a project. 260DET quotes tensile strengths whereas Dan's noted a potential fatique variation. John, I agree aluminum can be great if designed (& tested) properly of which we KNOW AP/BREMBO etc have done to great extent. Given an iron bracket is ~ 1lb or less (likely less, just being conservative) I didn't think anyone wanted to absorb the cost of design/production for an aluminum bracket for the few ounces. I'm blabbering now......brackets are IN PRODUCTION this week and next (yes, a good weeks worth of machining). Orders will be shipping out in the order they were received. I don't like 'altering' thread lines but a lot of q's/info popped up above which seemed to have it already diversified. PS 'IWISHIWASATURBO', yes they are 11-3/8's rotors vs. ~10" or so for the 280ZX setup. The 280ZX caliper core costs are high and good 'as is' junkyard stock is hard to find, something I haven't put up in my web. Reminds me, we have a limited number of good used 240SX calipers available with recent orders.

quote: Originally posted by Steven82: Would be easier just to use a crate motor? Your wiring will certainly be easier but their are a lot of benefits IMO to an LT1. I see them as a helluva deal and I'd pick one in a flash if I was doing a swap from near scratch. Figure an engine that'll easily put down 300+rwhp with easy/cheap mods reliably and efficiently with fine state of tune would cost a lot to build from scratch. IMO an LT1 is like the above engine with the fine EFI setup (OEM setup is great) thrown in for free considering yard prices of 1500-2500 for the engine with EFI/harness etc. Of course lots of other motors are great values, I just see an LT1 as a great motor (even ignoring costs) for anyone for whom ~330rwhp or less is plenty adequate. Pricing out what it'd cost to have same manners/mileage/powerband would cost a lot more to build from scratch. A few friends have been racing them for a few years now with fine results. Given they couple easily with a T56 and in the heavy OEM cars they can fetch 30mph highway it's a dream come true in a Z swap IMO. I just wish they'd been as available when I did my swap as they are now. best o'luck (yes wiring efforts are certainly worth the EFI IMO, and I enjoyed/lived with my carbed V8 for 5 yrs or more till I got fuel infected last summer and been loving it since

"Adding very long studs and using a thick slip on wheel spacer is asking for trouble" Haven't had time to wade in here yet but here's a start..... -I think most important points are all made above, high quality machining/material and purposebuilt for your car/setup. -Pete, why is a slip on setup over long(standard 2.5" ARPs) studs undesirable? My front set are out of aircraft grade aluminum (which is really a total non-issue/all compression, petrified would might work ), hubcentric and with a lip to match my wheels (very snug fit/matched by machinist) and studs pass thru snug fit again holes. As long as it all stays tight (as with most fasteners) then what is the issue? Center hub/adaptor is locked in by friction/compression so can't spin or change position so no bending is induced on studs that are torqued up in compression correct? To suit all preferences/desires I have either custom built for each order and use 6061 aluminum and use metric 10.9 or sae grade 8 studs of the customers spec. FWIW I use 1.25" slipons up front (over 1/2 studs) and 1.5" bolt ons out back (new OEM studs). I personally rec'd 1/2" studs with thicker slipons just to err on the safe side. Most bad rep's on spacers have IMO come from some of the very cheap crap out their, some made of inferior alloys and been sold by transdapt as well as others. Personally I prefer slipons as it's 1/2 as many fasteners and it's easy to check and make sure they're all torqued since there's no inner set, but I've never had a lug nut come loose either so perhaps the anal engineer in me.

Yes Ron, you can run the vented 4runner setup on 4lug hubs. Nothing 'kicks the hub face' necessarily (a few have posted it that way lately), perhaps nitpicking but I just want to be sure others understand it as it is. The 5lug hubs add ~1" in offset to the hub face. The rotor spacers that allow one to run 4runner vented setups do nothing with the hub face, they move the rotor INWARD. Sounds like you got it down pat Ron, just followed up as I did as someone posted the 'moved hub outward' lately and I didn't have time to respond. Two different spacers for the 4runner vented 4lug setup, depending on if you have 240 or 280 hubs.

"I plan on running bigger offset " What spec wheels would you like to run? 8's fit comfortably up front and I'm quite confident 10's fit out back easily with stock fenders and coilovers. 16x8's 5lug, +50mm offset all around on mine at present(1980 280ZX)

Enjoy your planning as you say...sometimes it's 95% of the fun and has to tide us over. As others mentioned, if your motor isn't cammed too high with lots of overlap you can use 3.7's down to 3.15's with lots of fun as you're building a torquey mill with very broad power band. Larger/lumpier cam and you'll want 3.54's or higher......some apply gearing of heavier cars which don't really compare as it takes very little torque to move our lighter Z's.....(ie. don't run away from a single plane intake etc or gears thinking you'll be bogged in the hole....) Whether it was my mild 327 or stouter roller 350 with single plane they both had tons'o'torque off idle (with an OEM TC and my built 700R4). For 'planning', I'd scheme on a quaiffe LSD and 3.36's or 3.54's (3.54's being so easily available it's hard not to choose them if you don't have a specific goal requiring 3.36's or lower).

Owen, depends on what diameter you want. For 7/16's it's either 7702 or 7703 (often 100-7702 or 100-7703). Whomever's selling them to you can easily check that. The other PN above is for 1/2" studs. 1/2" will come a lot closer if not break out of the edge on the rear stubs (7/16's is typical rear size). Craig, your site has engine related bolts, not wheel studs (from what I've seen). I've got stock.

quote: Originally posted by scca: i have a couple new pins in stock Thanks Mike, I've already got a Nissan order coming in so easiest to just add to it, and I know Vancouver isn't your favourite place to visit and I'm not free to head your way next week. Got a PN? Is it just a pin, or other hardware with it(ie. washer/nut...). Thanks. Oh yeah, what's typical cost on them?

Anyone got a PN for this 'pin' that locks the rear control arm 'spindle' (meaning main long bolt that control arms rotates on)...customer needs this pin and I'd like to order it ASAP, thanks! I looked at www.carfiche.com but couldn't pick it out from their fiche. If someone does perhaps they could post the pick here? PS does it have a nut on the end or is it just a single bolt?

quote: Originally posted by rickeybell: The 3.36 R200s are standard in 74' 260z 2+2 with manual trans. Whereabouts? Not on Canadian builds or any US builds friends own. Only some very early 280ZX's have had them AFAIK.

Trevor, not sure if you only want Maxima info (ie. you got a cheap one) or just a CV solution. I have a CV adaptor that uses 280ZXT CV halfshafts, project completed and items shipping. CNC made and tig welded to your companion flanges. full info on my web www.modern-motorsports.com any q's feel free

Zgeezer, I don't know what gears are in an R230, a forum search would bring it out as it's been discussed many times. They're 3.54 or steeper (ie. higher numerical number) I'm 99.9995 sure. Your 3.36 R200 is quite rare and an enjoyable pieces in its own right.