Modern Motorsports Ltd

someone here is running these....Mike Kelly's tech article is gone at zdriver and I haven't found it to work off this site yet...anyone who know's or can rec'd where the 'vented' caliper model/year/engine size are spec'd feel free to pipe up

Need to know as their seem to be a few brake pad PN changes amongst toyota in the 80's. What year/model/engine do the vented calipers come from? '88/4wd/V6 4runner? I searched the forums and found 88'4runner....the smaller engine had the oldstyle pads and I want to make sure I get the right ones out to a friend. thanks Is it '88's only that these were available on?

Don, are you going to be up for our show? (we covered this already didn't we?? it's been a long day!) If so it'll likely be up and around for inspection and demo at autox

I haven't done the swap you propose so hope you don't mind me answering I'd keep the dust shields if possible, or some manner of keeping excess dust/crap away from the hub seals etc. Are you doing the solid or vented rotor conversion? It's been said the solid isn't so worthwhile. Too bad you weren't up here right now...I'm looking for a WA or BC 70-78 donor/owner to install my prototype 4 piston aluminum calipers/10-3/4" (Z31/same as toyo swap) x0.8" vented brembo's on......calipers aren't even a pound each I'd guess, toyo's might reach 10lbs each. It should be available fairly soon broadband. Oh yeah, I'm no fan at all of drilled or slotted rotors FWIW. KVR pads combined with decent rotors etc will treat you far better. [ August 28, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

"Victoria British one has two TC rod kits. One add's this cup thing ... prevents darting caused by deflection of the rod" sounds interesting, my car became quite darty with the larger treads but I've also chalked it up to unreplaced OEM rear control arm bushings and imperfect alignment in my slightly lowered stance " Also what is so special about MSA's adjustable endlinks? What do they adjust?" -I can't quite picture them right now but they didn't offer that much adjustment AIR "I want the mounts to be stronger, urethane being the first idea, but to my knowledge no one makes them." anyone failing the OEM mounts? just curious...stronger as in stiffer isn't always better...can translate a lot of vibe into the chassis at some points (4th gen Lt1's were all shearing OEM A4 mounts, so swapping to ES tranny mounts in their 4L60E's and then having bad vibes....upgrading to LS1 tranny mounts got them back to smooth/no vibe and they weren't shearing.) Ross I can show you a nice pic from a Jap ZX I got off overboost.com. The guy replaced his radio/ashtray/lighter section w/ some CF and added in his electronics and guages. >>I'll use a sheet of stainless or aluminum and make it VERY hard for anyone to remove my CD controller (ie. nothing coming out the front), carbon fibre overlay might be cool He also did the same for his main guage cluster. I remember another ZX'er using a certain Autometer guage pod w/ minor trimming. >>I'm holding out for a euro 160mph OEM speedo I found a couple a while back being sold as a pair only but couldn't find anyone to take the other one. I remember Pete's write up on the wheel wells but I recall someone saying the ZX had wider wheel wells? >>> I must have had a brain fart and thought you were talking Z's. Still IMHO 225's are max reasonable tire for a 7" rim. -my 16x8's fit nicely up front with coilovers (perch must be above tread) and 245's, room for another 1/2-3/4's of rubber perhaps? -out back I could EASILY see 275's if not 315's in stock wheel wells, I run 245's and have lots of inner clearance and outer, I've contemplated pushing them out another 1/2-1". Out back spring perch fits easily above tire with a decent length spring (whereas up front I'm running a 7" spring with OEM upper mount that has to change/then an 8" should fit). Do you feel the same about cross drilled? I would think they grated the pads like cheese and I never understood why there would be that much gas needing to be released. (their main selling point) >>>yes I do, they never proved their was any problem with outgassing to begin with, race circuits would have been all over that if it was a serious issue. On an all out balls to the wall competition racecar I might see an advantage if the rotor was designed to have adequate surface area and was drilled for maximum cooling etc. But we're usually challenged by too little rotor mass in the first place so the system soaks up heat/fluid boils etc....drilling reduces this capacity further and contributes the potential for stress cracks. Last year at shasta a very impressive looking (ran OK on track/nothing spectactular at all) Z32TT with a lot of 4 in race mods had crossdrilled rotors with a brake upgrade. EVERY hole had cracks propogating from it. I rode in a race 510 that passed him nicely. Also this will be a multi-attack vehicle: drag, road racing/autocross, and street duty. I don't care about ride harshness that much (I'm only 19 ), but my main issue is safety. I don't like fast cars that leave ya poopin your pants when it comes time to brake or turn. I think what I will do is get new calipers, SS lines and some good pads first and see where to go from there. Any pads you reccomend for strength yet they don't wear out rapidly? >>> on calipers I have a hard time (having done this so much myself) encouraging you to replace current old stuff with OEM as that's dead dough you'll never recover & I boiled my MC every session with fresh OE components. Too bad it's not a 'budget' ZX system I have right now available. You're aware of my 13" setup I assume? I have the Z 11" setup ready in prototype for a test mule...looking for a volunteer nearby for the install, helluva a deal if anyone is nearby and interested drop me a line. Sean: for brake pads I can't say enough about KVR's 'sport' compound. I enjoyed them so much in 4 yrs on various calipers I'm finally distributing them. I know VERY few others running although Scotties enjoying them. I've literally not been able to ever fade them, boiled my MC repeatedly but no fade. Very friendly rotor wear etc and ~ same price as dealer. They're a carbon fibre weave with some metallic and I haven't found their dust to be harsh and bake on my wheels like some others have. Thank you immensly for your help, I wish some of the stuff was more readily available for our ZX's as they are for the plain ol' Z's. >>>you're welcome. I agree, I waited 4 yrs for someone to offer up a proven and sturdy brake upgrade that was same or less weight than my OEM setup that would survive no questions asked on my high mileage daily driven street/track 280ZX V8. Didn't happen so I finally got around to engineering and proving it. Their were offerings with race calipers but for my uses I really wanted something with OEM dust seals etc as I see lots of miles whether it's for work/fishing/hiking pleasure etc in all types of weather so dust and moisture are always present. I've got some 12kmiles on my 'new' brake setup and it still looks near new, more how an OEM dealer setup should after a years use. Probably only piece on my car that's worn that little in 12k If you have ideas for other unavailable parts needed drop me a line. It'd be great to be able to buy control arms or a modified crossmember allowing the adjustments we'd like. A redesign would almost be simpler in some aspects. I've seen a 510 rear susp. redesign and they're very similar to a ZX so migth try spinning that design on a ZX Xmember.

Thanks guys, I'd forgotten about making a simple cradle to grabe the rails. I had a GM wooden crate that worked so slick for moving motors that just simply cradled the rails. Rocking side to side sounds good as I can control side to side motion whereas one lift underneath I wasn't as certain........can do either, will see, I have the 2x10x10 ready! Thanks

"back to the SDS thing...but its better than the pro-flo and the holley efi systems by far" I'd enjoy hearing the results of your research, pros of SDS vs. Holley/Proflo etc (some diehard electronic guys have really trashed Holley as they 'bought' the commander system and they feel tech support will be poor, just passing it on). I've only heard mostly opinions to date with little actual experience with them. this guy logged TONS of data/pretty hardcore in fact http://www.sonic.net/~mikebr/main.html FWIW, I'm not up on the tech but some wizards datalog with whatever setup with their own input/logging system.

Nice setup. That turbo would clear my strut tower and likely inner fender(and hood), what's the items on the drivers side upper fender area??

Yesterday when I started my ride it had a 'shudder' to it just on initial startup...seemed odd but off to work I went. Then last night I notice drivers side motor mount is almost sheared thru or ! no hairline crack/this crack has a GAP to it. so GM dealer is getting in PN 3990332 for me as per http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000508 I previously used sealed power (cheap, seemed good) mounts and now want to see if GM is smoother.....(I'm aware of clamshell types). I haven't heard of many shearing them as a routine item so hope to see how these GM ones hold up. So how best to change my mounts without an engine hoist? I've toyed with making a strut tower cap to strut tower cap engine hoist but don't really have time to arrange it right now.....I'm not so comfortable with jacking under my oilpan with a piece of wood. Can I bolt a 'tab' on the lower front of the block to jack from? I'd guess the harmonic balancer is plenty strong but using it just doesn't seem right . Doing one at a time might be safer?? thanks in advance, till it's swapped I'm driving SLOW and wincing on any sizable bumps...

1)Why is there no poly bushing "kit" for the 280ZX? Also since there is no kit what all do I need? I wanna redo it all. >>I think theres never been enough demand for it to warrant a kit. We just have to buy it all piecemeal. wwww.energysuspension.com has it all or I can get it all for you as well. -bushings are front t/c bushings/control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, rear control arm bushings, rear sway bar bushings, should be about it... My ZX darts under hard breaking and I wanna fix that b4 I add more power. Any other suspension mods you think are worth while for the ZX? I remember seeing something about modified rear lower control arms in the JCR catalog. >>> all bushings first and be sure bearings are all snugged up etc, I've never seen modified ZX arms offered but would like some adjustment on my ZX as well. 2)Does anyone make Front AND Rear strut bars for the ZX? >>> doesn't MSA? rear can just be a simple straight piece of conduit/pipe etc if simple/plain is OK. 3)Does anyone sell solid motor mounts for the L28ET? Harshness is not an issue. Any thoughts? >>>might rattle other items loose....I noticed today I've almost sheared right thru a motor mount! (not a nissan one). Why do you want a solid engine mount? 4)What size Autometer guages would fit in the stock Speedo and Tach holes? Are they the same size as the 240Z's? >> quite different guage holes/setup than 240z unfortunately, perhaps some will fit but I'm not aware of anyone that's done this yet. I plan to do a custom centre panel with extra guages where the radio/cig. tray etc was. 5)Using the stock Turbo rims, (15x7's?) what is the biggest width tire I can fit? >>> largest for drag racing or safe daily driving? 225's are a nice fit on 7's, wider and you might roll it off or at least sacrifice lost of body roll and 'squirm' undesirable for tight handling. Also later on down the road w/ GC Coil overs what is the max size the stock wheel well can handle? >>> pete's detailed this immensely on his website off of links at initial load up of this page. 7's do fit fine in stock wheel wells with 225's with proper spacing. 6)What weight/amount of Redline/Amsoil tranny lube should I use in my T-5? (stock tranny) What about the R-200 Diff? (my haynes doesn't tell me) >>R200 likes 75W90 synthetic for longevity, if LSD then add a container of GM posi additive, do slow tight figure 8's to get the fluid in b/t the clutch plates before heating them up 7)I'm getting new calipers to solve my e-brake/poor braking problem. Would slotted rotors, good high perf. pads, and steel lines suffice for my goal of an 11 sec car? >>> I'm no fan of slotted rotors as I feel they're a lot of 'show' no go propoganda. Very few racers really run that stuff and I've seen nothing to prove it's needs. It'll decrease your surface area for creating braking force and the slots can fill up with brake dust/nothing desirable for me. SS lines are always good IMO. As far as an 11 second car, are you only running 11 second 1320's on the track where braking room abounds and you're not endangering anyone abnormally? Or are you doing serious speeds on the public streets/highways? For public I feel serious tires and brakes are one point not to fall short on. It might be the only thing keeping you around in some happenstance situations. Sounds like your ride is an enjoyable daily driver seeing lots of fun street and track miles. I'd reccomend using OEM style calipers with dust seals etc to keep it a long-lived low maintenance setup. >> At what point should I be pondering Ross C's or Scca's upgrades? when you feel you're driving well beyond 'normal' street limits IMO and stock parts can't stop you adequately in surprise scenarios (we can plan for all non-surprises.....it's the surprises that catch us...kids/deer/cops/drunks/accidents etc) 8)Do '79-'81 Tailights work fine in an '82-'83 model? >>Hmm, they should?? same connectors I'm 99% sure. Hope that helps.

quote IME, it's easy enough to have no sputter or audible sign of ignition with timing out. That's how it was with my EFI startup anyhow, 'most' prior carb startups just fired up . Just rotating the dizzy as I'd passed on to BLKMGK while the boss/missus was cranking did the trick both recently and previously. That 5 seconds of dizzy testing is faster/easier than triplechecking initial timing before startup IMO. I"ve had it bang on before and then out a couple other times so just seems an easy out.

Depending on how your budget works out and your power desires...just another data point:I've seen a damaged 96 Z28 with intact and fine powertrain for $3500US for the whole car. So lots of value in used parts (it wasn't totalled by any means. Being in the 4th gen circle you're aware of how easy it is to bump an Lt1 to higher power levels (head gasket/cam/headers/TB) with many of those parts even available used at fair value. LS1 would be wicked if price is fair of course! Call up Graham's for powertrain prices.

"keep the air cleaner housing off, since it's burnt anyways. with engine cool, sit inside and pump the gas peddle 2 times and try to start the car" Can't say I'd try firing up my ride without a fire resistant air filter in place securely. The only time I did that was when I was sorting out some carb & timing hiccups and gas shot up out of my carb . Nothing resulted but I've always made it habit to start my ride with air filter in place. I'll remove it while running to tune/alter/check items, but its always in place for startup prior to all of my tuning being nailed down. Just my .02c.

"I have the rotor pointing to my No. 1. plug tower but still no juice." What do you mean no juice? up above you said you have spark and you haven't checked to see if you have fuel yet so what's 'juice'? -as well with injectors if you have an assistant handy you can hear them ticking with any stethoscope if they're opening(ie. long screwdriver from ear to injector etc)

can't say this is rocksolid info...but I recall having seen that a new flywheel could be converted to be used on an 'old' motor but an old flywheel could not be used on a new motor....something about adequate clearance/material to be machined present on one and not the other...if that yard knows how to do that they should share the full info or source of who's done it if possible. FWIW, a few places in WA you could cource out for a nice chunk of change less for a T56. It was posted here a long time back around Spokane & Tacoma AIR. They're far more abundant stateside and no ICBC their to drive up the rates (our provincial insurance/repair system).

20BTDC is a bit much, what's your injector system/ECU spec? 10 is more normal for starting/locked in and then you can 20+ for idle-no load -pull a spark plug after cranking and see if it's wet to know if you have fuel , that'll help you eliminate one possibility, do you hear your fuel pump when you first turn on, before cranking? did you wire your fuel pump to run during cranking....?

Davy got it all bang on. Crossmember/firewalls etc are in different places in Z's and ZX's......I found out that placing it DEAD on the crossmember in a ZX is the same in RELATION to the firewall as in a Z which it seems you understand. However, weight distribution b/t the two setups still seems very similar. My rides lighter than OEM and rear weight bias. You can follow JTR ideas for most except motor mounts where you just shim appropriate offset as per JTR but bolt dead on to crossmember. You could move it back 1/2-3/4" if you really wanted but hood latch and valve cover/serviceability would go from EXCELLENT to poor so not worth it IMO. 51% rear weight is enuf for me. any q's feel free.....hopefully Davy and I cleared that air....moving a firewall....whew! wish I had some neighbours with that kind of energy!

quote: Originally posted by Peternell: Is there enough material on the rear hub to go to 4.75" spacing? Their isn't enough material on the hub flange, you could have them welded up/built up to accomodate the bolt pattern but then you're still left with Z31 4.5" bolt circle hubs up front unless you're putting some domestic front hubs on. I did redrill my rotors if that's all you're asking. I'm sure the wheel pattern fits, but if it'll slip over a larger flange I'm not sure. The Z31 rear rotors should as they have a LOT more ID clearance (11-3/8's OD as well vs. 10" for 280zx stuff). Not too sure what you mean by el cheap o route? We all redrill our rears as it is to get to 5lug. Generally you have ~1/16 or thicker material left at edge of two of the your 'new' holes so no room left for a larger pattern. I had my two 'tight' holes built up with a 'shoulder' as an extra touch. Another alternative to get to 5x4.75" is bolt on wheel adaptors (we generally need an adaptor if we want to run 90's 5 lug wheels whether imports/cobra wheels etc anyhow) that go from 5x4.5" to 5x4.75". These are available from myself in billet 6061 hubcentric spacers with all grade 8 hardware (with an option for wheelcentric as well, ie a protruding wheel matching lip). No pricing online yet but I can quote you if you know the thickness you'd like. Minimum 1" thick for a bolt on spacer generally. Not cheap but then I wouldn't want cheap wheelspacers on my ride. I've seen cheap ones just shatter on imports driving 'normally'. What's the backspacing/offset on your chevelle setup? room for a spacer out back? are you flared at all? [ August 24, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ] [ August 24, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

aha! found what I wanted...scroll down _____________________________________ Thanks for the PN, I can get that local for same price so that was good, however more thanks for the part detail, says it has fiberglass in it?? I want a straight thru race muffler as I have concerns with that fiberglass not flowing so hot and our climate would rust/rot out that fibreglass in an accelerated fashion I'm guessing. "all aluminized materials for a long life. They also use continuos Roving fiberglass for maximum sound control." not so all-aluminized in considering the fibreglass I'm looking to use it as a large bottle/resonator in line with a 2nd muffler. ________________________________ Aha, here's more what I want up front inline. Straight thru, <$40US NO stuffing. Full race muffler description/pics/specs. 4 in. round, 3 in. inlet/outlet, 23 1/4 in. in length, that should fit as easy as anything else. [ August 24, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

FWIW, my father used the crossmember spacer strictly for extra tranny/T56 clearance in the tunnell and firewall (and possibly driveline angle/I don't recall). Did the rest of you T56 users clear fine without using a BFH or shaving fins?

quote: Coil overs are great for being able to adjust ride height although getting to them is a PITA. PITA to access? Yours must tuck down below your tires then even when it's jacked up. I can jack up one side of my car and alter both coilovers on that side in a few minutes and then same on other side. One LONG extension with allen head socket makes it easy 4 me. I have to keep my collars above my tires to give my tires clearance to my struts up front (~1/8" ). BLKMGK, you're saying your front is higher due to your present perch locations, not a 25 lb spring rate difference right? If you start playing with testing your brakes as boat anchors the way I like to you, you may want even higher rates up front. Thanks for the extra spring rate related to usage info Mike. I knew the combo in my car was working well and I've quite enjoyed it but I hadn't understood why my rates were so different from all others I've seen....(GC chose all components on info of what I do, I emphasized lapping days at SPEED were my priority and I didnt mind sacrificing some stiffness off track). My setup is 375 fronts (they wanted 340-350 but it wasn't easily available in a 7" spring at the time) and 250 rears. I'm real glad I had the coilover setup installed prior to my 13" big brakes or I guess I would have experienced massive nose dive and possibly blown the shocks? Info I gave them was 3100lb car loaded with driver/full gas max speed 150-160mph, 50/50 (or 49/51?) weight ratio and some other info and I'm very pleased with the spring setup chosen. Looking fwd to swapping out those OEM upper front perches to fit an 8" spring in their though....my hammertime around town attitude has bottomed it on occasion

quote: Originally posted by Lone Star 1: Also I removed the four bolts holding the steering colum to the firewall and enlarged the hole about 1/4" towards the drivers side and slide the steering colum over about 3/8". ...This mod can help all on this forum who are having clearence problems between the exhaust manafold and steering colum. Great info and ideer Lone!! That's the first I've heard of that and it could truly benefit fitting my upcoming 1-3/4's headers on my ZX which has always been tight in that location... I'd just assumed that it was fixed from the wheel connection to firewall and not flexible at all, I assume there is a joint in their then? U 'da man [ August 24, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

quote: I'd like to echo pete's statements. Thanks for posting John Ditto on Drax & Pete! As an aside, those bumper boxes are great I packed up a 510 BRE decklid & 2 fiberglass fenders in one and had room for a mini cooper left over I can only guess at your packing efforts knowing they have to take a LOT of time and EFFORT. I'm sure your customers appreciate no extra abnormal 'packing' fees as I've seen that as a cost of business that should be included in the parts. Dave's complaints were all unneccessary 'whines', noone forced him into that business. One alternative for shipping large items can be by airfreight which on occasion has worked out quite well economically for myself with some body parts, when both seller and buyer were near major airports with decent connections. Perhaps your items are too dimensionally large that the costs get quite high.

quote Is that a 3" in and 3" out ~6" diameter, 20" + long piece? any PN? local guys aren't up on 'race' offerings by dynomax, but that sounds like the piece I'll want up front like my father has.

Those resonators in the size you're talking can take a fair bit of flow out. IMO you're better of with a good muffler mid-car and a long tip as suggested or muffler near the rear but no resonator on 2.25" pipe. I've yet to have any setup without a drone and I've had resonators up front with mufflers out back and resonator removed etc etc....my 280zx in OEM form had a resonance from ~1800-2300rpm. Now on the other hand, my fathers 3" large(6" round by 24" plus long?) 'race' type resonator/straight thru works v. nicely with his rear muffler for a stealthy sound that breathes nicely with his Lt1.