Modern Motorsports Ltd

"maybe the air came out because it was pressurized in the confined space vented by the duct?" I've bought into that concept much stronger than the 'vaccuum' concept from external suction. Engine bay has higher pressure than above the hood. We know that, so it seems natural for it to exit ANY available opening to the lower pressure side. AIR my dad was popping his inspection lids on occasion...he just got a set of louvred ones back from MSA he's going to try. (very slow MSA service BTW, he got his supplied 'cores' back louvred so they had not stock on hand!)

anyone running louvred inspection lids? seems to me it wouldn't cost a ton to have a louvred hood as well?

Thanks for the info DS. I've seen that info you rec'd and it is good. But having seen the results and effort of many around me who've tried I leave that to the pros for true results. Ported L98's (what you have) were outflowed by stock vortecs in a few tests now. Not to dishearten you, just a rather valid comparison. I'd double any hours someone estimates a pro type job such as that.....do play with your regulator pressure as it can really help you control your bits when working on a easily marred material such as your aluminum heads. Lone, I'm 100% with you on carb size. 600 edelbrocks have fed a lot of 400+hp small blocks. On the vortec/manifold conversion, it is only a small geometry difference b/t ports as you say but it's fundamental to the proper flow in those heads so yeah it works..but noticeable potential is lost. Also 100% on single plane intake with a hybridZ....and EFI is not needed IMO and IME. On my HEAVIER ZX the single plane victor jr. was great with the 600 edelbrock, ripped treads from 750rpm idle as usual. Now EFI'd I'm still enjoying the same intake design.

quote: Give him an email and see if he can help you, he's a nice dude! QB] I will, I see Tom notes that their are 2 series of chips now whereby 3512 is 'old' chip and 3522 is 'new' chip that has a forced maximum MAT value to alleviate the 'blower roll'. Only a few chips have been updated from his info. I'll assume mine's an old one....I wrote edelbrock EFI once and their answer was so mundane it seemed pointless. They should offer a free/cheap exchange given they're so cheap to burn. Thanks for defining that term/I have no idea where it comes from.... chip update

Great stuff! Did you have one burned yet? Now I just wish I didnt' have to unhook the harness/unmount the ECU/unbolt it and remove the old chip(lazy old me!). I have the ZZ4 chip so will have to check the numbers to see if he has that code and decide upon what changes I'd want. FWIW, I have a 'bigger' chip as well if you know anyone in need. Hmm, I know their's at least one guy in a NWFbody list that can burn chips/wonder if it'll do these same chips?

just my .02c, I'd take those heads/intake/carb/cam and flip the 305 bottom end and put the 305$ towards a 350 bottom end. Bores too small on a 305 to open up those 350 head valves much and your cc will be shrouded. The inverse of putting 305 heads on a 350 CAN be a cheap budget racing punch for higher compression/racing fun that's common among some budget fbody racers but not great for street (quite high comp AIR).

quote: Originally posted by Mike kZ:

Sounds great, I wonder if it was midyear that bolt angle changed? Are you doing your own port & polish? Wish I had those skills...big bucks around here to get that done right!

quote: Originally posted by Trevor: Will the '85 - '85 300ZX 4-bolt hub fit the 70-78 spindle? sure all Z31 front hubs bolt on, but offset and rotor placement is different hence the alterations required for brakes. But why bolt on a 4 bolt hub? Just bolt that rotor on your Z hub if you don't want 5lug. All in Mike Kelly's tech article on this web (but not always working) & on www.zcar.com I think......others have written it up as well (Z31 front rotor on Zhubs). Same rotor I'll use with my alum. 4 piston caliper bolt on 4 or 5 lug package coming available in the not too distant future [ August 21, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

Well Ron Tyler said he used 1st gear once with his T56 and it was 2nd from then on as 1st was too short with his OEM LT1 power. And my father's agreed on that one. 2nd gear starts seem normal I tend to prefer gearing a setup for 2nd/3rd and 4th than 1st gear.......with any spirited hybrid motor 1st gear should be requiring driver control anyhow and the more spirit it has this grows to 2nd/3rd etc.

quote: Originally posted by Zpeed: thanks for that terry, i'll just get a r200 from a 280zx manual that has a 3.9 open i'll be happy with that, now all i gotta do is find one... thanks Or see if you can't scare up the 4.11 r200 'oldstyle' that was put in a few mid/late 80's 200SXT's. That ones bolt-in practically(wider snap rings is all).

Hmmpf, I'll have to ask my Dad again but I recall no unusual effort required on his T56 for reverse. Perhaps Ron Tyler mod'd it before him or had that solenoid triggered differently?

Ditto what Pete & others said. Greg sent me a rust free quarter panel and rear bumper via air cargo (ie. NOT a simple shipment) and I was VERY satisfied with parts and costs (from AZ to BC, Canada!). I've referred countless other people to him with same experience on parts to complete cars.

Great stuff! I missed any updates on it, was it hard to clearance? I want some underside shots so I can have my new exhaust routed such that it would clear a T56 if installed later on....which components did you use with it? slave/master etc...same as Mike Kelly?

I haven't seen anyone mention that an Lt1 T56 is quite different from an LS1 T56 so don't assume standard or auto trannies interchange from an Lt1 to an Ls1 or reverse. I don't know the details but enough to know T56's changed b/t those engine lines & do not crossover so auto's most likely changed as well....(ie. a year or so ago Ls1 T56's were quite cheap as noone needed them or could use them) [ August 20, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

quote: Originally posted by dsommer: I'm going to try to put this one to rest. I've got a set of 87 Corvette alum. heads and an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. Hopefully tonight (or some time this week) I will bolt the intake to the heads and see what lines up and what does't yes, documented lots, just a different angle on the centre bolt/just open yours up and you can still use your 'old' bolt pattern intake. I would NOT rec'd using 'old' intakes on Vortec heads as the ports do not match and although it appears to be a slight difference/altering for this too match greatly alters/inhibits their flow. It's been done and shown to fail. FWIW, unless you're really fond of the L98 heads you might get some decent dollar from the fbody crowd that would go a long ways to the vortec heads or world products for that $<600 price range...but then you need an intake...enjoy the game

quote Hell no..mines a 280zx so setback is different. Mines tight to firewall, weighs less than OEM and over 50% weight on rears. Hit your motor mounts? Hmm, well if it fits as I described beside your balancer ~3/4" away then it'll fit with this mount. I can take actual measurements if anyone needs. It is NOT right on my frame rail as the summit type lower mounts place it which might be what you tried. It was a v. bright day when I took those pics so it's not very clear it's position. This bracket is $50US or less. this pic might show it better, perhaps it would be close to your motor mount location, if I have the 3 or 3.5" JTR setback clearance available then it would fit yours.. [ August 20, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

If you're OK with it on drivers side LOW and beside your balancer take a look at my pics, not even sure if it's visible their (non-tech area) , I can get you the transdapt number for that...basically if you can hold your alternator beside your harmonic balancer ~3/4" gap b/t them then this can work for you. I have a short water pump as well (gives a nice clear site line across your engine front). It's a very simple/solid/small/chromed light one piece design. other thread in which pics link is...

Hey Jon, I got word from an ICBC friend tonight that ONLY RCMP theft recovery cars get that door jamb tag we saw.......so beware and see what the ICBC 'rap' sheet says....He said swapping a dash would not require that tag....who knows as you can get varying individuals in these bureaucratic positions so the circumstances might vary but bewarned..... The 327 one sounds very promising.....why is it for sale so shortly after being built?

I hooked up with Jon today and we had a nice cruise to N. Van. and checked out the 305 V8Z he looked at last week. I put together a bunch of pics I shot for Jon to quiz you guys on. Jon's potential new V8 Z car Overall some pretty nice work has been done on the car but their are some questions raised that I'll let Jon bring up. we're not sure if it was just poor bodywork or if it's twisted up somewhat as some panels fit strangely with odd gaps. Both doors fit similarly with large front gaps but they are somewhat symmetrical and front fenders are fibreglass so that might explain that... -rear hatch as pictured does not sit flat...either hatch or sail panel is wrong -back edge of drivers door sits 'out' ~3/16" or less Jon can list the other pros/cons. BTW, great to meet another Z nut fast cars big brakes and fast......were enjoyed/appreciated

quote: Originally posted by Paul R: If you still want to see the pictures, i put them on this page: Rear Wheels Looks great Paul! Now we just need to get you into some larger rotors front & rear to fill the wheels now that you filled the fenders

Jon, you've got mail.

quote: Originally posted by FAIRLADY 327: ... but the R200 LIVES! and doenst howl or anything, believe me, that thing is tough!!!! It seems the whole attraction with the R230 is it's initial price. I think it might be far more attractive to have an R200 LSD package available with a reider posi and bushings so you can have any of the common 3.54-3.9 ratios installed. The custom R230 parts can't be too cheap? I'm sure it's a great piece but I have a hard time justifying it. Maybe once someone's posted a total package/effort/costs involved it might be clearer to me. If I needed one tomorrow I"d be getting a reider unit and making those bushings and having a good gear shop install them. EVERY major city has at least one top notch gear shop. R200's are available quite easily around here, I've heard they're not so common elsewhere. Only if the reider setup became popular would I then start cracking apart used R200's to salvage gears only (as most would have their own donor R200 I'd guess) to help out with that end. Till then I know they're getting tossed out in yards in BC. Removes all those custom parts that are hard to service/replace quickly if ever needed. comments?? [ August 15, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

well to throw my hat in the ring: I loved my TRW progressive rear springs for daily/track/mountains/everything! I agree progressives aren't for a race ONLY competition car but for anything else they can certainly be OK if the driver wants a softer edge for city driving. My 375/250 rates are stiff now (not sure why Ground Control picked those rates/they wanted 350 fronts but couldn't get them in 7") and the car is quite neutral (not my opinion/that of some experienced drivers that experienced/reviewed it at Shasta last summer).

quote: If someone wants to build a kit I and maybe Mark can provide info, someone else here was doing this too...??? I wouldn't mind looking at the details that a kit would require and see if it fits the resources available to me if noone else is already walking that path. I'm already sourcing enough 'custom' stuff that it might be complementery to my own ongoing efforts underway. What's the diff itself weigh? I have a reasonable source for them but have never looked into that. Is the 240sx rear diff stronger than an R200 or friendly ratios available? It's a nice suspension with rear steer that might be a possibility