MazerRackham

So I made the DIN enclosure out of 3/4" MDF and I would have used 1/4" too but the Home Depot ran out and they don't know when they are re-stocking so I bought some plywood. I tried to make it as thief proof as possible so I took several measures. You cannot see it in the picture but the DIN cage that the radio mates to is "permanently" affixed to the wooden mounting box. To do so I carefully cut some notches in the wood with my drill and bent some of the mounting tabs on the DIN cage outwards. Once I slid the DIN cage in the tabs snapped into the notches that I cut into the wood. There is no slop. The tabs on the side that bend outwards allowing the radio to slide in also have virtually no room. I was afraid the glue was going to snap when sliding in the radio but the radio eventually slid in with some violent persuasion and with no damage to the head unit. If the thief wants this radio they are going to have to rip out the center console and smash the wood box holding it in. Overall it is an extremely snug fit for both the radio and the DIN mounting cage. I drilled some holes in the center console so it wouldn't crack when putting in the two screws that hold it to the center console. I would have made a fancier mount but this is very sturdy and requires lots of destruction if a thief wants it. The sub box is entirely 3/4" MDF and its stupid heavy. Once the sub goes in it will easily be near 30-40 pounds. I'm going to cover it in 1/2" foam and faux leather black vynl to match the interior of the car.

THERE IS NO CAR BETTER THAN MY Z lol Butsrsly I like the blank canvass the 240/260/280 z cars are. You can do anything with them. I want to put my heart and soul into this car so if I have kids I have a fun reminder of myself to pass onto them. Even if I don't have kids I drive the **** out of my DD project. I'm sure if I got my hands on a Noble M600, Gumpert Apollo, RUF Yellowbird, or Lamborgini Miura I might enjoy it more than my Z but I don't have a 7 figure income so I'm having the best time I know I can have in a car. Every time I start this thing up I've got a huge smile on my face.

ITS MAH BIRRTHDAYYY!!!! AND MY CAR IS GETTING ALL THE PRESENTS! jkjk But seriously you guys have helped me give myself the best gift ever. Without you guys I probably would have sold my hoopdee Datsun by now and bought a 240SX or something . I've had knowledge since birth (not bragging or anything) but you guys helped me with the self confidence and to me that means everything in the world. Happy June 22nd Hybridz!!

Can I do this with the engine and tranny in? The damage is just as bad on the other side. I need some video's to get me stoked as **** to cut these out and weld in the new ones. Weather is nothing but sun for the rest of the month. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and pull the dash after I see my girlfriend tomorrow and go to work. The damage is worse on the passengers side. On the passengers side the rust extends up the floorpans to firewall/the battery tray area. Its almost all eaten through. I've got a hammer and I've got a Lincoln 110v mig welder. Lets do this. Preferable videos of fast Z cars, babes, and molten metal.

Removed all the tar and am prepping for valve seal replacement, pcv replacement, and floor pan/frame rail replacement. Looking at having it all done by the end of June early July.

I cannot find it anywhere on the internet except for people on other forums. I figured I would keep the money in the Hybridz family and ask if anybody on these forums has one for sale or borrowing?

Bought a welder, and am getting read to install floor pans + frame rails AND KILL RUST

Its called a surge tank. DO IT

Its like Miura.... But... Dare I say... Sexier?... Oh my god. I'm in love.

I know my horn is good because whenever I ground the horn cable it works. Problem is it is just hanging loosely on the side and I do not see any contacts for it that "work" after I press down on the horn cushion? Is my best bet just buying an aftermarket steering wheel rather than trying to fix my current one? Can one of you guys PLEASE post a picture of how it is wired?? I would really appreciate that. =]] On a side note I want to install this DIN receiver for my head unit, http://www.jcwhitney.com/universal-marine-in-dash-radio-installation-kit/p2029696.jcwx?filterid=c615d1661u0j1 Would you guys buy this, or is there a cheaper less destructive alternative?

You guys just need to find more good dubstep then. =]

I'll have to agree with Blu on this one. When I had some small leaks I had the exact same issue.

Yeah I was going to document it with a video but it's better typed out. I'll start the write up tonight! =]

I will be there!!

So I have a switch for the rear defogger, hazard lights, and the third button is missing. I'm not sure if it was a warning light or a switch or something. If Somebody could provide me with a source for the buttons+plugs I would appreciate it. I already checked MSA and thezstore but they don't have any pictures so I cannot identify whether what they have is what I need. If somebody has one of those buttons or plugs that would be to the right of the hazard light switch on a 260/280z center console I am ready to buy it ASAP! Thank you!

Bulbs were bad. Replaced with a 30 dollar pair from the local home supplies store. Brighter than ever and I learned a SHITTON.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D1cap6yETA So I was going through the lights with a volt meter and found 0 volts at the bulbs. Strange. So I ran a ground cable back to the battery and found 8 volts at the bulb. My battery is dead so if it were fully charged I would be seeing the full 12 volts. So I spliced a battery ground cable to the headlight ground and found a consistent 8 volts BUT NO LIGHT!!! I was looking at the custom fusible link the previous owner installed and it has a 20 AMP maxifuse installed. The fuse looks good. Could both of the headlights gotten bad bulbs at the same time or something? This is strange...

Removing the Double Bullet connector for ground and splicing together two different wires with a separate bullet connector brought back my blinkers, side-marker lights, gauges, solved my intermittent hi-beam issue, and solved my intermittent windshield sprayer problems Continuity tests for every possible switch combination came back good. Problem is somewhere else. Continuity tested the relays. They are good too. Methinks that a connection between the "B" plug went bad

I determined the cause of my problem was my combo switch. After I removed the switch, dis assembled it, cleaned everything, and re-assembled it my dash lights nor side-marker or parking lights come on anymore. What gives? When I was looking around the headlight relays I found that there were some wires that ran directly back to the fusible links from the head-lights, and they were NOT fused. Should I be worried? Never mind, I have 6 fuses instead of the necessary 4. I'm guessing the PO hooked up an extra 2 fusible links for the Relay upgrade and some other wiring I should be worrying about probably...

Excellent dude! thank you! I did this to figure out my fuel pump problems. I would do this, but the voltmeter got here in the mail so I think I'm going to use both methods.

Cool thanks brother! I'll check and report back!!

HAHAHAHAHAHAH excellent. I tried but the ONE AND ONLY DAY I decide to use my harbor freight multi-meter it also pooped the bed so I ordered a quality one. But yes I am getting a trigger voltage. I can hear the relays click when I move the flapper to turn on the headlights.

Nope. Went into safeway and my headlights were working. Came out, and they pooped the bed. Didn't make any sense. Before I could play with the combo switch and jiggle the hi-beams and the headlights would come on, but not anymore I guess...

So I was driving my girlfriend around the other night when the headlights went out. At first I thought it was a bad fuse until I saw that they were still perfect. So tonight I tore apart the headlight combo switch and saw that all the wiring was correct and in its proper places. When I went around the front of the car to see the headlight wiring I found two relays, and the power & ground were spliced into. Yes the previous owner did actually do something to make my life easier. So I jiggled the ground and the lights still did not come back on. Bad fuse? I'm still trying to figure out how to get the sugar scoops off so I can get a look at the actual modification to the headlamp itself to see if the job he did on the wiring. He did a good job soaking the connections in di-electric grease. I'm pretty sure he just dunked the connectors in Vaseline from what it feels like. Pro tips anybody? ALSO gratuitous a picture of my subwoofer tail light panel build.

SORRY FOR THE DOUBLE POST! PLEASE DELETE THIS THREAD!!!