MazerRackham

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105969-swapping-to-wedge-type-sockets/page__p__991380__fromsearch__1#entry991380 I was looking at this thread and he mentions that these may be good replacement sockets, http://autolumination.com/connectors.htm Anybody have a definitive answer?

Yeah. Just search around. One guy did it. it looked great and its super easy. The problem is the mounting tabs at the bottom of the 240z tail lights are welded to some sort of hinge. You'd probably want to fabricate that hinge so that your fancy 240z tail light area doesn't fly off on the freeway.

I'm going tomorrow morning to start pulling it. My girlfriend just got back from Florida on Monday, and she left today for Europe for a month so I wanted to spend every moment with her before she left. My friend Lucas and I are getting up at 8 and will hopefully have it done by around 3'ish. He's never done any car work before so it might take all day. Luckily the guy who I'm buying the engine off of has air tools and is willing to help if I look like a total n00b but I think I can handle it. I'll probably just read the FSM tonight. I'll record everything and upload it to youtube as I work so you guys can follow along.

http://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/553579-another-vq35de-single-turbo-build-great-power.html Like 500 Horse Power on a stock block son.

Oh my gosh. Your on Hybridz. I have to say I've watched your 240z YouTube video one too many times. This second carbon fiber one is absolutely gorgeous.

Quick question. Are there adapters available to use my 5 speed 280z shifter with a VQ35DE? EDIT: Guess I'll have to buy a Z32 tranny too...

Sorry I forgot to mention this engine only has 10K miles on it. My 40 year old L28 is burning old because of bad valve seals/blowby. I'm not too worried about getting it to stop burning oil/pass emissions. I just want a modern engine that has potential to hang with/smoke the Lambo kids. I'm better with digital than analogue being a programmer and all. I'd imagine these engines are much better supported by megasquirt than our L28/L28ETs....

Awe inspiring really. Amazing job. I hope to one day have the money and time to accomplish exactly what you are doing.

I exaggerated the damage of the wiring harness in the video to the dismay of the seller. I could fix the wiring harness in an afternoon. After having rebuilt the entire wiring harness for my head-lights I'm pretty confident in my abilities. I understand the fracture/crack statement, but the front clip and radiator were actually bent in a way that was protecting the engine, except for the valve cover. It looked pristine. You should have been there. I want a VQ37VHR anyway but for 300 bucks this VQ35 seemed like an offer I couldn't refuse.

DEAR GOD. ITS THE MOTHERLOAD.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnNqAiaCILs There was a hole in the valve cover due to the crash this engine was in. I wanted to see if any metal got in there so I opened it up and the lobes looked great. The only real big problems I could see are the metal fuel lines got kinked and the wiring harness has some slices in certain parts from the inpact. There is also battery acid damage (pre-mature rust) everywhere. But it should be easy to clean off once I get it on an engine stand. He is including the entire engine, all accessorites, intake and exhaust manifolds, cats, injectors, ECU the works for 300. Should I get it, fix it and put it in my S30?? EDIT: Forgot to mention, engine only has 10K miles on it.

Or just black silicone caulking....

Dude I don't care at all. Thanks for the heads up. I love seeing custom audio set ups on these cars. I've read every topic on it on classiczcars, here, and just about every other forum, and finding it done well is pretty hard. I have one more plate of wood to install and then I'm done. I've just been lazy. Lots of math. Girlfriend. ACT. Trying to get into Stanford/Berkeley is hard. =[

Could be gunk in the heater core.

Take it and fix it. For 3,600 that's a ******* steal!!!

The guys at napa said I could use a straw from a fast food restaurant. Just wanted to know if anybody has any pro tips?

absolutely gorgeous

AKA THESE But I just need the left side! thank you!

The guy I'm buying it from pulled it from his garaged 75' because he was swapping in an LS1. I'll get pictures next time I come up and see him, but I forgot to take pictures while I was there. Sorry.

May just be shift lever rattling. Good replacement bushing? I was reading about the brass ones but I've sourced replacement plastic ones for like 5 bucks. Let me know what the best in your experiences have been. Thank you!

My transmission makes a grinding noise that is absolutely heinous. I was hoping somebody could just hear what needs to be replaced. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWVFCglitB4

Thanks brother! What are some quick tests to make sure what I am getting is a "good" drive shaft?

Thanks to Sitto I got some brand new tires for stupid cheap. So I've got about 300 dollars left over from my birthday and I'm wondering if I should use that to replace the Tie-Rods. My mechanic said my tie rods were bad and getting brand new ones from Rock auto would cost me about $200 I would have just enough to buy either, brand new 4 spd Manual trans or Blue KYB struts, ZX Compressor, and brand new driveshaft My transmission makes a grinding noise that is absolutely heinous. I was going to take bushing, syncros, and anything else I might need to replace on my 5 spd manual that is very worn. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWVFCglitB4

So I've sourced a brand new 280z driveshaft for 15 bucks. Would be cheaper/easier to replace the entire thing, or should I just get the parts I need to replace the u-joint on my current drive-shaft?

Its for the catalytic converter temperature sensor. I'm going to add a small plate of wood to the backside of the notch so that once placed over the cat temp sensor it doesn't slide anywhere under heavy braking. Currently the right side is held in place by the plastic of the hatch panel. It is such a tight fit on the right side it isn't going anywhere.