Dragonfly

Mine were made out of the same pot metal type of material. I used the built in studs and the speed nuts but I did not use the backing plate, instead I used a washer over each stud prior to putting on the speed nut and I applied epoxy to the mating surfaces before I tightened the nuts down. After everything was cured I sanded the edges of the vents down then added bondo in small amounts untill I could no longer see a line between the vent and the fender. If I were to do it again I would carefully sand/file down the built up lip on the underside of the vent before installing it. That way you can use less body filler and not thin out the pot metal so much. Dragonfly

I am certainly not an expert.... but I have never heard of those and my tripple Mikuni's don't have anything like that and I have never had a problem with them. Dragonfly

If you decide to take this route here is what one of the local guys here did: Go to a motorcycle wrecking yard and purchase the entire tank (cost about $70) then cut the gas cap/filler neck out of the tank using your fuel door as a guide. You now have a piece that will fit right into the existing fuel filler box in your fender and you can attach the existing fuel hose to the filler neck after everything is welded in. Of course you do have to cut out the original fuel filler box (inside the fender) in order for this to work and when you are done it looks like it came from the factory that way. Dragonfly

Absolutely correct... ktm, I have matching holes on the other side as well and vents in the fenders so the air has some where to go. Dragonfly

I actualy bought this one before JeffP succeded in getting the CSI pump built, I was a little to impatient to wait. Mayolives, yes it is a BW T5, it has been completely rebuilt and is ready for "break in". If my memory serves me correctly either you own or are involved in the Z which goes by the name "Red Bird", that is the car I used as a referance for the aluminum shrouding that will be going over the radiator, and a very impressive car to boot. nbesheer, no it stays in place very well, the small pulley on the motor has shoulders on the sides (belt sits in a groove similar to a V-belt) which keeps it on track. Thanks for the compliments. Dragonfly

Decided to add these pics here as well... Dragonfly

Yea I remember that one (Wichita Falls Tx.) after the one I was in I started paying a lot more attention to the weather and all the tornados that hit with enough force to make the news. In 84' I had all I could take of tornado alley and I made for the coast... only been back a few times and I make sure it is not tornado season when I visit. As I recall it only takes a few minutes for a sunny day to get more than enough clouds in the sky in that part of the country. Fortunately in San Diego even though we have hundreds of fault lines none of them are overly large or active so when we do have an earthquake it is fairly minor as compared to most of the rest of the state. The biggest one I went through here was 7.8 and lasted for about 60 seconds, that one got my attention really quick as after about 15 seconds I was bouncing about a foot above my bed. Dragonfly

If you look at this picture you can see a little closer how the pulley and brackets look. When I bought it it looked like this: With a bracket that looked similar this: The bracket bolted up to the water pump with no real issues but I did not like the way it looked so I pulled it off took a couple pieces of aluminim and bent, drilled and polished them and made them into my new bracket. In order to get the pulley to fit over the stock water pump I had to grind some of the diameter off the mounting flange on the water pump, I also had to cut down some of the water pumps bracing ribs, I then marked and drilled new holes in the new pulley so I could bolt it to the water pump mounting flange. The whole thing works quite well and I have never had a problem with it (drove it for over two years with no problems at all). As you can see in the pictures the belt sits somewhat loose, that is intentional, I could easily tighten it but there is no need to, with the toothed belt and pulleys it has no problems staying on and turning the water pump, also I have virtualy no load on the water pump bearings so I doubt if I will ever have to replace this water pump. Dragonfly

If you follow this link http://www.srh.noaa.gov/oun/tornadodata/county/getcounty.php?county=Le_Flore then go down the list to the one that says "76-08 03/26/1976 1528 12 440 F5 2 64 Le Flore 4 E Bokoshe- Spiro" That is the tornado I was in, I was one of the 64 injured. I consider myself quite lucky... I was only crippled for a few months and I only have a few dozen scars left. One of the 4 people killed in that tornado was in a storm shelter so don't fool yourself into thinking that an early warning will save you... it only increases your odds of surviving. mamba_888 there is not a thing in the world that could get me to live where you came from... guess I am to much of a mother nature chicken, I will stay in the very mild SoCal region. Dragonfly

I am using a Moroso electric water pump... electric motor with a belt that goes to the water pump, switch is inside the car. Dragonfly

Some pics from the other side... Dragonfly

Here are some pics I took while installing the engine back into my Z. Dragonfly

Here is a pic of the engine and radiator installed, I have not made the aluminum shrouding yet but I will post more pics when I do. Dragonfly

I personaly would go for the shorter bolt, although it is a very small amount I would not want to add rotational weight by "shimming" the longer bolts with washers. Dragonfly

I survived an F-5 tornado in Oklahoma, I now live in SoCal and you could not pay me enough to move back anywhere near tornado alley. I would rather face an earthquake anytime. Dragonfly

Yep... I'm hopeing the car will be a little quicker when it is back on the road again. dimsum Yes the pressure plate should sit flush against the flywheel where they bolt together, as someone pointed out earlier in this post if the clutch is in backwards the pressure plate will not sit flush, also make sure to use an alignment tool to hold your clutch in place while bolting in the pressure plate or your clutch could slip and get wedged not allowing the pressure plate to bolt down properly. After you get the flywheel taken care of double check everything and use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts after you turn them in as far as you can by hand (the torque spec is from 10 to 16 ftlbs I used 15 on mine). Dragonfly

Custom made from these guys http://www.southlandclutch.com/ Dragonfly

I spent 13 years as a dimensional calibration tech and I can tell you without a doubt that if you want "good" digital mics they are going to cost you quite a bit. If you want if you want one with high resolution and low accuracy you can find them all over the place. Personal opinion here is that Mitutoyo makes the best digital and L.S. Starrett is a very close second. Provide the person who used your mics with a quote for the replacement of them and maybe if you are very lucky that person will be good natured enough to cover or at least help pay for the new ones. Dragonfly

Just did this last night with no problems. Torqued the bolts to 15 ft/lbs, did not bottom out and everything fit perfectly. Dragonfly

I can not see a problem with using copper tubing for fuel line (although you may get some frunny looks from people who see it) but everything I have ever read says to never under any circumstances use copper tubing for brake systems.

Not to worry Tony I will just ignore the man behind the curtian I will admit that I am rather low on the knowledge totem pole having only built about a dozen engines with most of them being L series (a couple fords, toyotas, and dodges)... I know for a fact that both Tony and BRAAP have waaay more knowledge and have seen and built many more engines than I have but personaly I have never seen a street driven engine (that I was aware of **VW duh**) that did not have some sort of elastomer in the crank pully. By the way Tony feel free to shake the tree all you want. Dragonfly

That was one of the things that I learned in a tube bending class that I was in recently. Jon here is the tubing that I used for my fuel line http://www.mcmaster.com (it will not allow a direct link so search for part # 5177K46) it is rated to 1008 PSI @ 100 deg. F and was very easy to bend and fit using a cheapy tubing bender. Dragonfly

I am going to be a smart a$$ here so please do not take it personal... There is a reason why you see a damper on the crankshaft of every street driven engine you look at and virtualy all other engines you look at, so yes there would be a problem. Without re-writing the book what would happen is your engine would vibrate itself to pieces, its not worth the couple of bucks you save in the short term. Dragonfly

I used the Hammerite brand hammered finished silver rust encapsulating paint. It can be purchased in a rattle can or you can buy it in quart or gallon cans and dilute/spray it yourself. Dragonfly

At this time I still have not finished the brakes on my car... I had been working on other parts of the car and just the other day started to put everythng together only to find that the crossdrilled front rotors (bought used) had some cracks starting to form around some of the holes. I am at this time waiting on my new front rotors to come in so I can finish up that part of my project. I have been lagging a bit lately but I will get some pics and some more information for those who have asked. Dragonfly