zbigtim

For those of you who cannot fork out the dough for Photoshop try this http://www.gimp.org/. The Gimp is a freely distributed graphic manipulation program. I find it very, very close to photoshop. It allows you to create layers and channels, and has what I think is a very useful "scissor selection tool" which makes selecting objects easier than the photoshop pen tool. The Gimp has a pen tool as well. There are also tutorials on the Gimp website to help you out with specific tasks. Tim.

Thank you letitsnow, thats some awsome info. Forgive me, I'm new to the turbo stuff, does the "s" in the part number 409250-5002s mean that the compressor is the "S" trim? I will be disassembling the compressor to measure this weekend, as you suggested. Who would be a good source for the exhaust housing and wheel? Tim.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex They may ship to Australia...

Thanks for the advise Let it Snow. I will do that. I wonder if I can replace the exhaust housing with that of a T3.

I aquired this turbo on ebay last week, not knowing what I was really bidding on. Supprising to me, I won it pretty cheep, which makes me a little worried. The unit has been installed and slightly used, but the shaft turns freely without any end play. The Tag shows 409250-2005s, which also translates to a Garrett T04B15. When I google these numbers I don't find a whole lot of good information. I have come to the conclusion that the exhaust housing will not work. It does not match up to the exhaust manifold. I also believe that the exhaust housing is too large for a street L28. Can anyone tell me what I really have? Coments are welcome... Tim.

Thanks for the reply guys. Tonight I datalogged and found that the engine is running a little lean up there. This pic shows my AFR running 13.3 @ 5500 RPM, on a hard acceleration. After running the VE analyzer: Maybe I just need to run a few datalogs and tune. Moby, to answer your question, I have the authority set at +/- 15%. Should I set that to 0% for tuning? I think I would want the VE table to get me darn close to my target AFR without correction. Then set the authority back after I'm satisfied with the VE table. Tim.

I verified it by using a timing light with the timing at zero. I set all the bins on and around my idle to zero, and verified zero with the megatune guages. Using my timing light with electronic advance (pictured below), I advanced until the timing mark lined up with zero on the timing scale. I was only two degrees off. So I put a 2 in the trigger wizard. Turned the timing light back to zero and the timing mark was dead nuts on zero. I then re-loaded my spark table. Below is a pic of the timing wheel and trigger with the engine at TDC. I didn't think so either. I first started by taking the map and scaling by .78, when that didn't work I pulled timing in the problem area. Is it possible I'm too lean up there? I haven't done any tuning in that area, afraid of blowing a hole in a piston. Now with the knocking almost gone, I can datalog and see. Maybe tomorrow... Thank you, Tim.

This guy here; http://www.hbci.com/~tskwiot/2002_MSII.html , did a pretty good job of explaining how to put individual coils in series or parallel, with the Ford EDIS. I found this when I was looking for Coil On Plug (COP) ideas. He put together a COP setup on his BMW 2002. Very nice work. Tim.

Today I've been working on my ignition timing. For a while I've been living with some serious detonation. At about 4000 to 5500 RPM & Full Throttle, I could here the detonation, then I would pull out of the throttle some, and the knocking would go away. So today I worked on the "upper right" corner of the spark table, and it is MUCH BETTER! It doesn't seem that others have had to back out the timing in this area. Am I on the right track? My engine is a stock L28, w/ a N42 head. MSII code V2.3, w/ EDIS. Thanks, Tim

I have used a coil pack from an earlier model Dodge Caravan which had a different connector. The coilpack lays out just the same except for the connector. Tim

This makes me feel better. I think I will just leave it in. In the state of Missouri, I'm not required to pass any emissions test with a vehicle that is older that 15 years. My next question is; how do I make this a more permanent install? It looks a little hokey strapped in with tie wraps.

Last weekend I installed a Innovate LC-1 sensor and controller in my Z. The instruction manual for the Innovate LC-1 WBO2 indicates that if the sensor is installed it must be connected and operating whenever the engine is running. This makes me wonder if the sensor needs to be up to temperature before starting the engine. In some cases this may be 30 seconds or more. I'm droping my car off this week for the bi-annual state inspection. I don't know if I need to leave instructions about the startup proceedure or remove the sensor. BTW, having the feedback from this sensor is really awesome! I'm sure I will have questions about tuning, but I'm doing some thread searches first to make sure I'm not "beating a dead horse". My focus right now is putting together a decent AFR Table.

I have a complete roof, I just cut off my parts Z this past weekend. Not sure what shipping from St. Louis would be. If interested, I will post pictures...

Today I removed the quarter panel off of my parts Z to be stored until the body work begins on my '76. I suspect that my '76 has been "fixed" on the crest of the wheel wells. After removal of the left one tomorrow, I plan to scrap the rest of the shell. Side View. Outside of Quarter. Inside of Quarter. I was surprised at how good these looked on the inside. Except for some minor surface rust on the bumper inset and the front, bottom corner which I cut off, it looks nice. I have, and plan on using the lower corners I purchased from Black Dragon.

Another good source is Jameco Electronics. They are generaly cheaper than DigiKey. https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&categoryId=3025 Tim.

Guys, While browsing the Megasquirt EFI Forum, I came across a post that was very helpful to me. I've been running MSII w/EDIS since May, and while I'm very happy with the setup, I was getting a hesitation under heavy acceleration that I assumed was a lean mixture. It turns out that I had the wrong "input Capture" setting for the EDIS. The Megamanual I have suggest that it should be set to "Falling Edge", when in fact the newly updated Manual shows "Rising Edge". After making this change, my Z runs beautifully, with no hesitation. It also helped some pre-detonation which I was trying to fix by retarding the timing. Here are the links to the post and the updated EDIS Megamanual: http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=26403 http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

Sorry, Maybe this link will work better. http://www.speedhut.com/el_detail.asp?catagory=DATSUN&auto_number=479&bhcp=1 Tim

Use the link that is on my previous post (about 3 post up), this should take you to the Datsun Kits. These kits are designed specifically for your application, (no need for measuring diameters and whatnot). I did have some fitment issues. First of all, I had them make my kit with a voltmeter instead of the ammeter. I took a photo of my gauge and emailed it as an attachment. When I recieved the kit the "chg" light hole was not large enough and the overlay interfered with the voltmeter pointer movement. The clock was printed off-center by 2mm. I got in touch with Erin in the service department at speedhut and everything was taken care of, with no problem! It was a very good experience. Tim

Take a look at my thread. On post #14 I explained how I mounted my escort wheel. I too needed to retain the A/C pulley. Although it looks like the crank pulley you have from the VG30 is stamped steel and not cast like the L28 crank pulley. This may not work for you. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122334

On my third S30. First one I bought in '89 when I was 18, HLS30455112, Black Pearl. May it rust in peace. My second one was a early '74 260z I bought while in college for $400. I should have used it for parts to begin with. Still have the shell. My current one is a '76, HLS30276269, I bought last year on ebay for $2500. Drove from my home near St. Louis to Witchita KS to pick up. Nice to be back in a Z after a 10 year hiatus. Just getting started on the mods.

The picture above is out of the '76 FSM. I know it is not exactly like yours, but it should be similar. In the above pic. you can see four sensors. The one on the top left is the sensor for you Temp. Gauge. The bottom right sensor is for the ECU. This is a two wire sensor that can be used for the megasquirt. You can use the standard bias resistor supplied with the MS, and use Megatune to calibrate the temperature range. (This is what I did) I assure youall of your factory gauges in the dash are not controlled by the ECU. They have their own sensors and are seprate from the EFI. Hold on the the GM temp sensor you bought, you can use it for the Air Temp Sensor. When you remove your Air Flow Meter the factory Air Temperature sensor goes with it. (Its built into the Air Flow Meter). In the photo below you can see how I inserted the GM Temp sensor into the rubber boot. You can also see the yellow (single) wire going to the Gauge Temp. Sensor. And the two wire sensor at the bottom of the Thermostat Housing. (Going to the Megasquirt). I wish I had thought of what Randy 77zt did with the TPS Mounting, before I made my "adapter plate". Best of luck... Tim

Have you checked out my thread? Im not sure how the header and throttle body you have will effect the tuning, but my '76 is stock, MSII, EDIS. I have posted my maps if you would like to try them. I have increased my required fuel to 19.2 since this post (the engine was running really lean). Now it seems to run pretty well. I have ordered my WB o2. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122334 Tim

Yes, the EDIS system does use a VR Sensor, but the sensor gets wired to the EDIS module not the Megasquirt. The EDIS in turn will send the "PIP" (RPM) to the Megasquirt. This PIP signal is a 12 volt square wave, much like the signal you would get from a Hall Sensor. Below is a copy/paste out of the EDIS instructions out of the Megamnual. This is what I followed, which seemed to be straight forward. Keep in mind, I don't know if this applies to your setup, if you are using the Escort VR Sensor with the EDIS-6 the wires between the VR and EDIS must be reversed. V3.0 main board: DB37 pin #36 to the SAW pin (#3) on the ignition module DB37 pin #24 to the PIP pin (#1) on the ignition module On the V3.0 main board: use the 'Hall sensor circuit' (step #50.a in the assembly guide), jumper OPTIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink, jumper TSEL to OPTOUT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center. [*]jumper JS10 to IGN (this uses the processor port for the SAW signal directly), [*]jumper XG1 to XG2 on the bottom side of the PCB, near the 40 pin socket, If you are using the relay board with a v3 main board: the SAW signal connects to the S5 terminal (#11 on the 20 position terminal strip) on the relay board, it comes from DB37 pin 36 (make sure you have a wire connecting pin 36 to pin 36 in the MegaSquirt/relay board connecting cable), the PIP signal connects to the Tach terminal (#15 on the 20 position terminal strip) on the relay board, it goes to DB37 pin 24. In the photo you can see the red wire along the top of the board and the short bare jumper on the bottom right. To be honest I don't remember just what the jumpers in the photo are, and I think there are two more under the processor daughter board that you cannot see in the photo. Hope this clears things up for you... Tim

Wanted to share my MSII settings. Again my engine setup is stock and has a gazillion miles (technical term) on it. It even burns and leaks a little oil. I have not checked with a timing light or a wide band O2 sensor yet. That stuff is coming! But by the 'seat of the pants' this seems to be a good starting point. Thanks to Paul Rauschman; I took his settings, except for required fuel, and cut back on the timing a bit, and bumped the VE up by 2.5% across the board. I made these changes because of detonation. Based on 2800cc, 180 cc/min, 6cyl. Tim

I forgot to mention that I still used the 2.2K ohm resistor that was in the stock tach signal wire. The tach circuit I built sends a 12vdc square wave to the tach (the same voltage as the original ingnition coil) so I felt that the resistor was still needed. I did not try it without, since it worked with it. I did not want to fry my tach. Tim