Flexicoker

that was going to be the next thing I try if the injector resistors didn't work. On my last datalog the voltage fluctuated from 13-15v, but it did it smoothly, and I think it was just due to the alternator and current draw, so I'm going to leave it alone and just play with the voltage compensation a little if I need to. It seems to run alot better now, it starts easier, requires less duty cycle at the top, and my MAP signal looks quite a bit smoother.

VICTORY IS MINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I wired up some resistors, ran the injectors as high-Z, and the voltage spikes are officially cured. Thanks to everyone who has helped!! I would have been lost by myself. jeffer, which components did you bridge? And what does that do? More current to the injectors?

If its a street car I would stay away from the clutchnet. I've got one of their 6-pucks, and its OK now, but as it was breaking in it chattered horribly. it still chatters sometimes, and launching is tricky. I'm used to it now, and its not so bad, but if I were to do it again I'd get a heavier pressure plate and a stock disc. Mine even slips sometimes with a stock L28E...

A glimmer of hope!!!! I changed the injector characteristics to high-Z, and drove around a little, it seemed to make a difference in the battery voltage. I still got some occasional large, isolated spikes, but overall it seemed way steadier. I didn't get on it very hard though to keep the DC low, because I hadn't installed the dropping resistors. I think I'm going to do the resistors and stop messing with PWM.

Really close to smashing things... Can I run my low-Z injectors as high-Z for short time at lower duty cycles? If that solves my problem then the PWM flyback circuit is to blame?

sigh I got the Magnecor plug wires in... didn't do anything. I've attached the most recent datalog, you can see that the voltage is noisy most of the time, but it only goes really crazy if I'm hard on the gas, but it doesn't happen all the time. I can drive it on the highway OK, as long as I don't go too fast or floor it, if I do then it'll go into super-lean mode, and it will stay that way (goes spicy lean at higher throttole) for the rest of the drive unless i stop. It seems sorta like something on the board is overheating, and it only happens at high loads/higher RPM's. I took off the lid and felt everything along the heatsink, they all felt pretty warm, especially R37, and R38. I'm going to splice some plastic tube into the vacuum line for the MAP sensor, and then do the mod that Matt suggested and see if either of those work... 2009-01-16_17.58.51.zip

Where would be the best place to get a separate +12? I'm using the switched +12 lug on the relay board to also power the wideband, would that be OK? I did go ahead and order some Magnecor KV85's, so we'll what that does...

Low Z injectors. I did run the car with the alternator disconnected and the problem was still there. Its more vehicle speed and load dependent than RPM. I can rev it while not moving and not have a problem. Say I'm cruising on the highway, it will be a little bit noisy, with occasional large spikes and dips. If I hit the gas, it will immediately become more noisy, with large spikes happening more frequently. If I let off the gas and coast, the noise will almost entirely disappear. highway speed at a certain RPM will produce more noise than lower speed at the same RPM. I might just go ahead and buy the magnecor wires... does the diameter matter? Does anyone have a source for the 8.5mm wires in a color other than red?

Okay, BIP373 fixed the no spark issue. Car is now running, but I still have noisy voltage. I put new resistor spark plugs in, new battery cables and checked all of the grounds and most of the charging system, disconnected the wideband, disconnected the alternator, all with no change. at idle, and decel the voltage is steady, but the faster I go, or the harder I am on the gas, the more spikey the voltage gets. I am reluctant to put a power filter on it, because it seems like a band-aid to something I should be able to solve. And I don't really want to start throwing $100 plug wires at it until I've exhausted cheaper options. Any recommendations on what to do next?

UPDATE! The car is still not getting any spark. I reflowed the solder at any questionable looking joints, and scrubbed the board with alcohol. On the stim the IG LED just stays lit, and I could not get it to flash no matter how low I turned the RPM pot. I ordered a new BIPXXX from DIY. Is there anything else that I should check? I really need to figure this out, the Z is my daily, and winter break is over soon =/

I will never ever ever every buy stuff from Black Dragon again. Everything that I bought from them is crap. my little window fuzzies are already falling apart, and the outer door window trim with the wiper isn't even close to fitting. @&%$ those guys Fastzcars recommended mcmaster part # 1120A731 to me. He said it works good, but I haven't tried it yet.

my walbro 255LPH is the loudest thing on the car...

Craig and I having been staring at the pictures for a while. Best guess at the moment is that its going to function like a salisbury. Is that a needle thrust bearing in between the 2 drums? Anyone have one of these we can borrow and study for a bit? =)

the tach jumps up a little, and stays, doesn't jump around at all. MS says 200-ish while cranking, but the RPM there is not jumpy or intermittent either. Could something else have fried on the board when the voltage regulator circuit went bad that would still allow the stim to light up but not actually fire the coil?

AHHHH MORE SCREAMING!!! okay, I redid the voltage regulator circuit per Carelessesses advice, and it seemed to work fine at first. Connected with the lappy, all the lights on the stim worked, and everything in Tunerstudio looked go for launch. However, it wouldn start tonight once I got everything plugged in, reflashed the firmware and everythang. I got a few sputters, and the occasional random flash from the timing light. But mostly no spark. The coil has 12+ on the + side, the ign light on the stim flashes, and until the car died on christmas it seemed like everything was working fine. The coil to distributor wire will not arc if I put it near ground, so its either the coil, wiring, or megasquirt. If the light works on the stim though, what could be wrong?

I've got SW2009, so I don't know if it will work if you've got anything older... try "spline on surface" in a 3d sketch, after you've made a cylinder.

I don't know of a way to do that... I know there is a wrap feature but I've never used it before. I will play around with it some tonight.

If you look at your solidworks animation (I'm designing LSD's in solidworks right now... for old F1 cars!!) it works because the ramps are the same angle... now imagine that when the top ball is going up its ramp, the bottom ball is going up a ramp of a different angle... this is going to force the 2 drums together or apart. So its the difference between the two angles on each drum that is going to produce the lockup. I think if the ramps were all the same angle, it wouldn't do anything at all. The ring gear and housing would spin, while the balls just go back and forth and don't transfer any force to the drums. my brain hurts

AH HA!!!! I think I figured it out... cygnusx1, you're right that they spin separately from each other with the balls bouncing back and forth. but I think the difference in angle of the zig and the zag is where the locking torque comes from. Its still got the preload all the time, but when the drums spin separately that difference in angle is going to force them apart or together, producing an applied-torque dependent locking torque. I think =)

I have to wait until I'm off work to watch =(

I see what you mean, but I think that would only work if the zig and the zag had the same angle. Not sure though...

the reason I think they don't spin independently of each other is the cage for each set of ballz. each pair is constrained a certain distance apart. If both sides were to rotate independently, then the balls would have to more farther apart and closer together throughout its rotation to stay in the tracks.

I don't think the L&R ball track peices rotate with respect to one another. I think the balls just force them togethor, based on the angle of the tracks, and whether its accel or deccel. What I don't understand is where the spider gears are.

I would prefer to use a pedal like a thighmaster or with my elbow before using the thumb wheel. The thumb control is tricky, but it has been a lifesaver a few times. Unless you know you will need the thumb control for something really tricky, go with a pedal.

They're talking about electric power steering... no pump.