Flexicoker

We've got a cheapy 'total-loss' blaster... its terrible. I bought some blasting soda and did my wheels, and it cost almost as much as having someone do it (just the price of the soda) the blasting soda also killed all the grass I did it on top off... It works, it just takes a really long time, many refills of the machine, lots of waiting for the air compressor to charge back up You will get sand in every nook and cranny of your body. for $250... definitely have someone do it for you.

My transmission does the same thing. I took it partially apart, gears and bearings all seemed okay, so I just ignore it. Been driving it this way for over a year now and its been fine.

Thats the Galpin Scythe. I sincerely hope someone destroys it and all the documentation of it ever existing.

I had a dream last night that my Z had a sequential gearbox... I was left foot braking and just blipping to downshift. It was awesome! I become much faster at autoXing once I learned to left foot brake. Throttle lift will often upset the car, but you can scrub off speed and keep alot more control mid-turn or mid-slalom by left foot braking and keeping the throttle where its at.

I'm running a Bosch 910 in my L28E. I don't know how much hp it will handle, but its way quieter than the shitty Walbro I was running, and hasn't let me down yet.

Awesome! glad to hear you got if figured out. It sure is a relief isn't it?

This is true, however I don't think the driven disc ever actually rides against the flywheel, it should have another floater in between it and the flywheel.

another "I heard"... that carbon/carbon is less susceptible to oil contamination because it can withstand (and reach during operation) temperatures high enough to vaporize the oil

http://www.speedhunters.com http://www.mulsannescorner.com

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilot-induced_oscillation

Fuel's density will change with temperature, but you're fuel system is already capable of delivering more fuel than you will need for a given situation. Cooling your fuel is not going to make any more power. But keeping the temp constant will keep you from losing power if the temperature starts to increase. I like the idea of insulating all the lines, I too have noticed very different AFR's after sitting in traffic with air temp, and coolant temp not changing much. I wonder if you could just use a fuel temp sensor to compensate? I saw an interesting presentation the other day about fuel heating to improve efficiency. The jist of it was heat the fuel to near boiling after its pressurized, then when the fuel is injected, the rapid pressure drop causes really efficient vaporization of the fuel.

yep! I wasn't there this year, but it was probably just as bad =) . They brought the turbo 250 car this year though... 19,000 rpms! I keep bringing up Taylor Race... but depending in the annular slave cylinder you chose, they might have the right spacer you'd need on the shelf.

This is really awesome. I'm excited to see what your light pattern looks like, Bartman. If its close to what FricFrac achieved... I think I'm going to have to find some money to do this myself.

I'm not going to pretend to be an aerodynamicist, but from what I understand as you get close to the speed of sound, the ideal shape begins to change as you have to start taking into account shock waves and compressible flow. At supersonic speeds (or close to supersonic speeds) you want something like the pointy needle tip, but at lower speeds the rounder front is better.

Hey Tom! You might remember me from the 2008 Solo Nats... I was with UTA FSAE and I think you observed a little 'argument' in the pits while you were working... =) I think you also helped collect cups for our awesome beeramid. Anyways, while I was working at Taylor Race Engineering, I heard nothing but good things about the carbon/carbon clutches, the initial investment i high, but from what I heard they last so long that some race teams say that in the end they save money... They are also supposedly friendlier when launching. Unfortunately, I don't have any practical experience with them, just what I hear. Last time I checked, both Tilton and Quartermaster listed a flywheel in their catalog, I don't know if they're still available or not. Taylor Race Engineering could make you one if needed, but it probably would not be cheap.

ya, I'm glad you're not too upset. When I was having the same problems it was extremely frustrating and difficult to figure out. The voltage spikes I was getting from the PWM was enough that it finally blew the voltage regulator circuit and ignition driver on my board (on Christmas day, before I did what I suggested you do =) ) I don't think that is the same failure you just had though, as my board was completely dead. I hope its a simple fix! -Eric

Man, I'm really really sorry if it was my suggestion that blew something up. I did exactly what I suggested on my car (MSII V3, stock L28E injectors) with no problems (just putted around the block), but maybe the surface mount stuff is not as robust or something?

sorry, I only skimmed through most of this post, but I was having similar problems. Magnecore wires didn't cure it, redoing all the grounds didn't help... Problem 1 I turned PWM off and drove around for a bit and it seemed like it helped with the voltage spikes, so I installed dropping resistors... problem completely solved. Unfortunately i don't remember what resistors I used at the moment, but that is my first recommendation before you spend $100 on plug wires. You can turn off PWM and drive around for a bit, as long as you keep the duty cycle low, and should not have a problem with overheating the injectors. Problem 2 My LC-1 was throwing a bunch of different error codes, most of them about the sensor overheating. A bunch of people on the LC-1 forum were having this problem as well. I reflashed the firmware to the older version, and it fixed the problem (mine shipped with the new firmware. Supposedly if the sensor gets to hot, you start getting erroneous readings. The new firmware has a tighter temperature range and throws a code if it exceeds this. The older firmware is more tolerant to overheating, and thus will give slightly erroneous readings if that happens, but it will no longer stop working and throw a code if it happens briefly.

Some squirrel filled the fresh air ducts that run along the front fenders FULL of walnut shells on my Z. If I hit a bump while driving, usually a walnut shell would pop out the vent. When I finally took them apart to clean out the ducts, it was amazing how many shells were stuffed in there.

pics? =)

-fresh, but cheap paint job over untreated rust -silver paint over anything that should look like metal in the engine compartment, brake lines, carb bodies, etc. -lag screw holding on the exhaust manifold -completely loose driveshaft to pinion yoke nuts (drove with it like that for a few months) -valve lash done way wrong, ie, cylinder #3 exhaust valve being held open all the time -loose Ford speakers in the back in top of that... I spent WAY too much money on it, because he claimed it had a freshly rebuilt engine, no rust, and new paint.

Hey, I recognize that parking lot! AKA, the UTA Formula SAE test track...

You will probably be fine with 6061. I would be surprised if the cam towers were made out of anything much stronger than that.

Thats what I meant... checking the zip-tie without taking the wheel off and putting the car on stands =)

My springs came with a little piece of paper that said which springs went where, my rear is a visibly lower than the front, but not that much.