Flexicoker

for what its worth... I put the tighter wound end on the top when I installed the eibachs in my car, if I were to do it again I'd do it the other way around. When the car is on the ground most of the coils on the tighter end are bound, and when that end is on top it prevents you from looking through and seeing the shock shaft. Its nice to be able to tell at a glance if you're hitting the bumpstops.

Any idea how/if it effects the weld?

Nah, white screams, "Look at me, I'm a tuner!" real racecars and airplanes have black gauges...

Between 3.25" and 3.5" on my car. Was the same for my 3-row 'stock' replacement and the current aftermarket aluminum radiator.

I am interested in this as well. I did some searching and a few people said that the shroud had to be trimmed excessively to get it to fit, but others have said that it fits great.

Well, I tried a trigger offset of 10 and 40, and moved my distributor to match each time. It seems like 10 has less error than 40, so I went with that.

I appreciate the offer! However, I am on the junkyard budget at the moment. It sounds like a 3-wire is a better valve, however I think I'm going to try a 2-wire first to avoid getting Glen's IAC board, and if I can't make one work I'll go to a 3-wire. I shouldn't need an unusually large volume of air, its just a stock L28. I'm going to be looking for something with hose barbs so I don't have to machine anything. thanks for all the help! -Eric

Is there an advantage to using a 3-wire over a 2-wire? Sadly, my Bosch automotive handbook does not cover IAC valves....

From what I've read, it looks like a 2-wire PWM valve will be the best for my application. I want to do closed loop idle control with MSII Extra. When I head to the junkyard, what cars should I be looking for to find such a valve? Is there a list anywhere? Any experience as to which valve works the best with MS? Thanks -Eric

the relay board cannot run a fan. The relays can handle the amps, but the traces on the board cannot (according to the megamanual)

I used the relay board, and it made the install go pretty smoothly, it was also my first major electronics/wiring project. Now that the car is running though, I wish I had wired up my own fuse and relay panel, and sometime in the future I will probably re-do it to eliminate the MS relay board.

Assumption is the mother of all f*** ups

nah, the ball was actually the one that got me in the end. The last thing that comes up where you use the spacbar, you can usually stay either all the up, or all the way down for a while, no need to pay too much attention to it.

I had my car tuned pretty well with MSII V3, 2.8xx code. I'm using the factory VR sensor and distributor, triggered by the MS. Initially I had a trigger offset of 35*, so that it would fire mostly on the center of contact on the rotor. I recently switched to MSII extra, the most recent code, and whenever the timing increased to 35* it would misfire badly, I think this is due to the trigger offset of 35 degrees... Suppose my minimum timing is 15*, and my maximum 38* including cold advance, etc, and assuming I have the flexibility, would making my trigger offset just below 15* or just above 38* provide more accurate spark timing? 38* would be a little easier to obtain, since its alot closer to the current offset, but if being closer to the minimum timing would help accuracy, I'd like to try that.

A feat that I will probably never be able to duplicate...

108... Booya!

I think there was just 3 phillips head screws around the perimeter of the little duct, holding it to the inner fender. The little bracket that holds on the cable/pull handle also comes out with a few screws, so you'll have to take that off as well if you want to take the whole butterfly valve/duct out of the car to clean it up.

Congrats! I graduate in December as an ME. Hopefully 5 years of Formula SAE will pay off and I can end up in a similar situation.

My vents were packed with walnut shells the entire length of the vent. We got a vacuum hose that was flexible enough to shove up there pretty far. The butterflys come off with a few screws. Between the vacuum and a leaf blower were able to get everything out.

I would recommend using a gear oil that is advertised for manual transmsissions only. The oil requirements for a transmission and differential are quite different. I could feel the difference in shifting the first time I drove after replacing the oil with Redline MTL.

Expanding on what Johnc said, there is no concrete answer. Its completely dependant on tires, and the the racetrack you're going to be on. As the load on a tire increases, its friction coefficient goes down. its still going to produce more lateral force, but its not going to do it as efficiently. So, the more weight transfer you have, the less overall grip you will have. Because of that, wider is better. Being wider, however, also means you're going to be driving a different line around a corner. If you're on a big, wide racetrack, then a wider car is probably better (all other things held constant), but if you're autocrossing, you might end up slower by widening the track.

I paid about $90 for a place online to make me new hoses so I could use a 280ZX compressor with my '73 dealer add-on AC. It didn't work. I then replaced the expansion valve and drier, and paid $200 to have everything proffesionally flushed, a vacuum drawn on the system, and then charged with R-134... Its really pathetic. I would not recommend anyone else follow the same route I did. It is marginally better than having the windows down when its hot out, but just barely. Maybe it would work better if I replaced the condensor and evaporator, but I don't have the money or time to mess with that now, so I can't say if it would be any better. I'm just going to stay with what I've got until I can replace the entire system. Also, the service ports on the 280ZX compressor I used have weird shrader valves that don't work with any of the R-134 adapters I've tried. Here's where I got my lines made: http://www.rayeveritt.com/Parts/Hoses/Hoses.html

Supposedly there are alot of houses in the area for sale/rent. Esp along the north part of Green Oaks. I'm also looking for a new place to live in Arlington, but haven't been satisfied with any of the local apartments. Are you going to UTA?

=)

The power at the motor is the same as the power at the concrete block (minus losses) so at every gear reduction, torque is increased by a factor of 12, but speed is reduced by a factor of 12, so the power stays the same.