z-ya

BLOZ UP, Do you know Giles and Michele?

EDIS has a more broad advance adjustment range. The adjustment range is 0 to 50 deg advance. Try that with a distributor.

You can read all about it hear: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781&page=5

Got some dyno tuning done on my Supercharged and Megasquirted L28 track car today. I've had thread going in the MEgasquirt area for while: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781&page=5 OK, spent about two hours on the dyno dialing in my Megasquirted 'N EDIS equipped supercharged L28 this morning. VERY satisfied wit hthe results. Hitting over 100% duty cycle on the injectors, but I was still able to tune it safe enough to do a time trial event with. Right now running turbo injectors. I'm going to try and pry a set of 370cc/min injectors from a freind to give me some tuning headroom. Hear is the dyno plot: http://www.zccne.org/gallery/albums/clubcar2006/ZCCNE_280Z_SC.jpg This is plot includes traces from last year and today. Last year I ran the flat top motor with an N47 head and stock cam. This year I'm running the same short block, but with a P79 head, and Com Camps 460/280 cam. Neither head has any fancy port or polishing work. I also added a Camden supercharger at 8psi. No intercooler. I'm runing around 21deg of advance at 8psi. Last year: 155HP, 165ft-lbs This year: 255HP, 225ft-lbs You can see at 255HP the Megasquirt soft rev limiter is starting to kick in. I may be able to get a bit more power by setting the rev limiter a little higher. Aynway, the sound the SC makes is awesome. Really loud at 8psi. Can't wait to get it on the track.

Paul, Sounds like you have taken a lot of care in rewiring your car and the MS. Are you getting ignition advance if you check it with a timing light? A noise filter might help. I did shield the SAW from the MS to the relay board. It is also sheilded form the relay board to the EDIS module. The tricky part is attaching the sheild only at the EDIS module sheild wire. I used some spare pins in the DB37 connector to keep the sheild isolated from ground everywhere except at the EDIS module. This will prevent any ground loops. The injector wires can be agressors towards the PIP and SAW signals. The SAW being the most sensitive because it is a 5V square wave, while the PIP is a 12V signal. OK, spent about two hours on the dyno dialing in my Megasquirted 'N EDIS equipped supercharged L28 this morning. VERY satisfied wit hthe results. Hitting over 100% duty cycle on the injectors, but I was still able to tune it safe enough to do a time trial event with. Right now running turbo injectors. I'm going to try and pry a set of 370cc/min injectors from a freind to give me some tuning headroom. Hear is the dyno plot: http://www.zccne.org/gallery/albums/clubcar2006/ZCCNE_280Z_SC.jpg This is plot includes traces from last year and today. Last year I ran the flat top motor with an N47 head and stock cam. This year I'm running the same short block, but with a P79 head, and Com Camps 460/280 cam. Neither head has any fancy port or polishing work. I also added a Camden supercharger at 8psi. No intercooler. I'm runing around 21deg of advance at 8psi. Last year: 155HP, 165ft-lbs This year: 255HP, 225ft-lbs You can see at 255HP the Megasquirt soft rev limiter is starting to kick in. I may be able to get a bit more power by setting the rev limiter a little higher. Aynway, the sound the SC makes is awesome. Really loud at 8psi. Can't wait to get it on the track.

Just got back from dynoing my supercharged L28 with MS 'N EDIS. The EDIS system is a great low cost crank fired ignition when used with the MS. Go to our original thread for deatils: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781

Paul, Where is the MS +12V physically connected? Do not connect the +12V source for the MS at the starter. Run a separate 16-14 gauge wire directly to the battery. I also run at least one 14 gauge (or multiple 18 gauge) ground wires from the MS to the battery. Because the MS provides ground for the injectors an all relays, it needs a heaftier ground connection than +12V connection. What is you battery voltage when the engine is runnning? Anything less than 12.5V is not good. Check your alternator. Make sure you have a the engine and chassis grounded to the battery with 4 gauge wire. I run a 4 AWG from the - on battery to the chassis, and then another 4AWG from the - on battery to engine. Is the RPM display in MT solid (no jumping)?

Paul, You are running a sheet load of advance in the 3 to 7k RPM range. This is OK with your CR and the available gas (or do you have race fuel). A freinds 11.5:1 L31 with a Sunblet head can run 35deg max without detonation on 93 ocane. Got scheduled on the Dynapack this Saturday, so if all goes well, I will have dyno charts this weekend.

Try to figure out why you weren't getting a signal from the EDIS module earlier. This could rear its ugly head in the future, leaving you stranded.

Or, just use a stock Nissan turbo cam. They good for over 300WHP. Save you on having to buy new lash pads and or springs too.

How much do you want to spend? You can get a used Maxima/810 flywheel that is about 4lbs lighter than a Z flywheel, if you are on a budget. If not on a budget, get an aluminum one. I've had good luck with Clutchmasters clutches. I'm running a Stage 1 (FX100) on my track car that makes around 165HP at the wheels, and it has held up to a couple seasons just fine. I'm runnig the Maxima flywheel on the same car. It does seem to rev a bit easier with it. http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/Graphics/FX100page.jpg

I'd be willing to bet that the fan relay output provides a ground (-) to the relay. Most relay outputs do so. The tach maod should not be difficult, I didn't realize the Extra code had it built in. All sorts of surprizes in the MS stuff! Pete

Paul, Great to hear it's running. You really do nice work! Mine is running good enough to putter up and down the driveway, but it hasn't been on the dyno yet, so the fuel map is wrong. This Saturday it should be on the dyno, and I'll post results when I have them. Yea, nothing like crank trigger ignition. I'm running like 30 deg advance at idle. really smooths it out. Are you using one of the extra outputs to drive your tach? I was going to do the wrire OR circuit using diodes that is on the MS EDIS page to drive a stock 280Z tach. Pete

Yes, can recalibrate MS for your collant sensor. Does the stock ECU use an IAT? I don't remeber there being one, so you will need to install one. Might as well get the standard GM unit.

I had simliar error mesages, and couldn't get rid of them either. I uninstalled Megatune (inlcuding the folder in Program Files), and them reinstalled it. I then recopied over the ini file, made the standard edits to emable Extra code, and they went away.

I believe that it is an NA stock 280Z motor, so no need to have load bands beyond 100%. An L6 will idle just fine at 35 deg. What really matters is the max advance you can run without detonation. In fact, if the max advance is 30 deg, you can fill in the entire map with 30, and the motor will run great. Yea, you can optimize low RPM high load areas of the map to minimize detonation, which will allow more advance at higher RPMs, but tha can take a lot of time on the dyno to accomplish. Running a lot of advance at idle really effects the throttle response in positive way. Try it.

I would set the low pressure point to be your idle pressure, and the max to be 100%. Since you are using Extra code to do ignition, you should be running a 12x12 map. Divide the difference between 100 and your idle pressure by 12 and start with that for load bands. For RPM, again, set 12 equal RPM steps from 500 RPM to your max RPM, maybe 6500. Set you max advance at idle, like around 35 or so. Should make it idle nice, and give good throttle response. Then gradually back off your timing until you reach your max advance. With a stock 280Z, I would start with a max advance of 27 or so degrees. This will get you started. Not much tweaking will be needed for an 8.5:1 CR NA motor. If you have trouble interpreting this, let me know.

You need to check gthe condition of your crank journals before you can determine what bearings you need. If you take it appart, and the journals look OK, then replace them with the same size that was in there. They will be stamped "std" if they are standard size. You can read all about this kind of stuff in any of the L6 rebuild books out there. I suggest you get one, and read it thoughly before starting your project.

Your mileage may vary...

Yes you can. The primary gaskets are the same.

I think you can use an external input to switch VE table with Meagasquirt. You will need to run the "Extra" code to do it. So your NOS switch could trigger the Megasquirt to switch to an NOS tuned VE table. It would be pretty cool if you could make it all work.

Are the bores and bearing seating areas clean? How about the oil galleys, are they clean? If so, I think you will be OK. A little rust on the inside of the block will not hurt anything. As long as the bores, deck, and oil galleys are clean, it should be ok to assemble it.

Are you going to use the NI hardware to control fuel and igntion, or just igntion?

It is rear wheel (hub) HP as measured on a Dynapac. The flywheel is the Dynapac pod. It made 164WHP on a Dynojet.

You can easily get over 325HP at the wheels with the stock turbo cam. That's at about 6000RPM. It will idle like a kitten too.