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Just get a Bosch pump. Yea they ain't really that pretty looking, but they are super reliable, and in the same price range as the Paxton. When I was in the market for a pump, I asked tow FI houses (Kinsler, Marren), and they both said the Paxton unit is junk. And they also both said, jut get the Bosch. I've been running it for threee years now, and I have had no problems. I've run it dry a few times too. Pete

I think the new Wolf3D v4.0 is around $1400, but it doesn't include coil packs. I'm running RX7 coil packs withmy Wolf 3D v3.0, and they work great. The version 4.0 unit has a lot more map points than mine. Also it has a built in boost controller and other cool stuff. Those Aussies know how to make EFI computers! Pete http://www.wolfems.com.au

These are hybrid turbos built by turbo shops. No car that I know of came with a T4/T3 hybrid. Pete

Doesn't the SDS log O2 readings that are at or near a map point? What about the TecIII? My Wolf3D logs O2 readings when engine conditions get close to a or lands right on a map point. The closer to the map point the better. It has an indicator that tells you how close to the map point the reading is. After a long drive I go through all the logged O2 readings, determine if they are close enough to modify a map point, and then make a slight change in the injector millisecond setting for that map point. Do this ten times, and you've got a great running engine. I've had my car on the dyno recently with a wideband O2 sensor, and the AFM vs RPM curve looked pretty flat. Pete

The guy I met at the convention uses his car on road coarses and as a daily driver. It's very reliable. I think he was runing around 40psi at idle, and 60+psi at full boost. He is using a stock FPR BTW. Of course, to get 350HP at the wheels, he has a big intercooler, TB, T4/T3 turbo, and an external waste gate. He was dumping the waste gate directly to the ground (not to the exhaust system). It made an awesome sound on the 1/4 mile when the waste gate opened. He was running mid 12s. He was also the owner of a tunning shop, and had over 100 dyno plots for the car. Wish I could remember his name. Pete

The Bosch part number for the 450SEL injectors is: 0 280 150 036. I just bought some fromt thepartsbin.com for $68 each. Yea, you can get remans for less, but they are usually RAM injectors, which are junk . You get what you pay for. BTW, they are 380cc/min not 420. Met a guy at the convention this year that was getting 350HP at the wheels with a junkyard L28ET long block and Accel DFI (among other mods). He was runing 340cc/min injectors. Pete

This is an awesome spreadsheet BTW, the Bosch 0 280 150 036 is the same used on the Mercedes 450SEL, and they have hose ends. The 380cc/min (36lb). I found them for a good price ($68) through http://www.thepartsbin.com . Pete

I take the coolant from the passenger side "T" before it goes to the heater core and run it around the front of the valve cover using the OEM solid line. From there is goes to the turbo using that flexible aluminum hard line. I connect to the turbo with compression fittings. From the turbo it goes to the thermostat housing. See pic below... Pete

What you need to find out is what is the minimum resistance (impedance) the DFI unit can drive on it's injector outputs. Most aftermarket EFI computers have built in protection if the impedance is too low. My Wolf 3D system can drive a minimum of 1.2 Ohms. Go below that, and the unit will go in and out of protection mode, causing an erratically running engine. You won't damage the computer, it will just run like sh*t. Find out from the DFI folks what the minimum impedance is, and then measure your injectors with a good quality ohm meter. If it is too low by a few tenths of an Ohm, a series resistor can be added. The sum of the injector impedance plus the series resistance should be just over (by a few percent) the reccomended minimum impedance.. Hope this helps. Pete

I'm running a Wolf3D with crank fire ignition. It runs in batch mode firing two injectors and two plugs at a time. Nice system. It has additional injector outputs that you can program to drive additional staged injectors. Right now I'm running 12psi, and I only log a max of 66% duty cycle, so I know I've got some reserve capacity there. I don't think I would go to larger injectors because of idle quality issues (I still want it to purr like a kitten). As I increase boost more, and I run out of capacity, I think I'll go the staged route. BTW, I'm running 38psi of fuel pressure at idle, and over 60psi at WOT. Pete

You are correct Lockjaw, the bigger the injector the rougher the idle. These 2.8L turbo motors sip the fuel at idle, and of course gulp large quantities at WOT. I'm running the 450SEL injectors, and my EFI computer reads 1% duty cycle, and I think it reads 1% because that is the smallest percentage it can. When you run injectors at an extremely low duty cycle, electrical issues can arise. My car idles and runs like a champ as long as I don't have too many electrical accesories running. With the lights on, the cooling fan and heater blower running, the car will idle rough. If I start pulling injector plugs I can find one or two that do not effect the idle quality (those are the ones that are not opening due to too a small a pulse width). If you go to 720cc/min injectors, I believe that you are going to have issues like this. An injector can only react to a certain minimum pulse width. I'd reccomend some experimenting. The other option is to a a couple supplimental injector that modulated on only when you reach a certain boost leave. I have a friend that welded two ZXt injector bosses into the intercooler pipe right before the TB. These are staged on at certain boost levels. He says it works great. I'm not sure if the SDS can do staged injection or not. Pete

I'd swap in the SDS first, and then look for bigger injectors. What is max duty duty cycle you are running now? The SDS will tell you this (or should). The less you change at once, the easier it will be to debug your new system. Get the SDS system in, get it tuned with your current boost level, and see where you are as far as duty cycle. Then start running more boost and upgrading injectors. Just my 0.02 based on experience. Pete

I was looking at putting a electric fuel pressure gaue in my Z until I looked at the prices . The cheapest I found was $280 for for the gauge with the sender. I was wondering if it would be possible to use am oil pressure gauge and sender to measure fuel pressure. I've also seen gauges that are just "engine pressure" gauges: http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult.asp?Type=Elec_Engine_Pressure&Series=Industrial_Black Pete

Actually, you want it in the intake. You want an accurate reading as close to the inake port as possible. Otherwise you will be giving your SDS false information for air temperature compensation. You want the computer to knwo about any heat soak so that it can compensate for it appropriately. Pete

You are correct, the air temperature is being measured inside the intake plenum, after the throttle plate but before the injectors. Therefore no fuel is present. Pete

I'm running a small Spearco, and I find that on the highway going aroun 70MPH, the intake temperature runs consitently 20deg F over ambient temperature (steady state). So on a day that is around 68 deg F, the air in the intake is approximately 88 deg F. My FI computer displays intake temperature, and also log min/max values. What I find interesting is that whan really step on it, the intake temp actually cools initially, because you are opening up the throttle plate and alowing more air to flow through the system. The temp will increase as the boost pressure increases. Also, if you open up the throttle, and then let off on it, you will see the temperature increase, because the throttle plate is closed, and very little are is flowing through the system. Some interesting observations..... Got to keep my eyes on the road!! Pete

Hey Tony, I would think that with the radiator you have, and the electric fan, you should be all set cooling that L24ET. What is the CR by the way? Also, at what temp does the fan come on? Are the oil cooler lines getting hot? I'm running the stock 240Z radiator, a Mr Gasket fan (the highest flow rating I could get that would fit), a Spearco intercooler, and an oil cooler. I've sat in traffic with ambient temps over 90deg F and have not had problems. The fan runs almost continuously, but the engine temp does not go over 200 deg F. Maybe a good flush is in order. Pete

I'll try the mighty vac to check for accuracy. I was also thinking of using the gauge on my compressor's regulator to check it. this is goods new as it appears that I am only running around 8psi. Thanks, Pete

What is a good way to measure the accuracy of a boost gauge? My mechanical boost gauge is telling me 7.5 PSI, where my Wolf3D computer logs 12psi . I've got a call into tech support at AEM, but I was wondering if anyone has seen similar discrepencies. I'm running the nylon tubing that came with the boost gauge, and I have braided line going to the wolf computer. Any help appreciated.... Pete

I'musing an inexpensive gauge, not sure of the brand, but it agrees with the gauge I replaced. The gauge I replace measured in inches of mercury for both negative and positive pressure. Kindof weird. Basically 10 inches of mercury translates to 5psi (approximate). It was anold Rayjay gauge. Anyway, it used to rea around 15 in/hg (7.5psi). It does read zero when the engine is off. Do the gauges measure average pressure, where mayby my computer measures peak? I'm confused. I'lllet you guys know what I hear back from AEM. Pete

I have a wolf 3D and I'm very pleased with it. As far as the cartridge, you can switch beteen the internal map to the cartridge while you drive. What I usually do is have a map I'm playing with in the cartridge, and the one I drive with internal. When you turn the wolf on it comes up running on the internal map. Later, Pete javascript:void(0) cheers

As far as I know, there are two Bosch high performance EFI pumps. One is smaller than the other. I have the smaller of the two, and I had it flow tested at 42psi, and it was maving enough fuel for 650HP . Kinsler fuel injection sells them for a decent price (I think I paid around $225 for mine). I'm not sure of the part numbers, I could look. Contact me if you need the info. Pete

I went to a local shop that makes headers and exhaust systems. He did all of my IC plumbing with scrap bends from previous work. He TIG welded all the bends together. It came out real nice. I had all the pipes then powdercoated. Petre

Tony, I totally agree with you on the reasons to just run a programmable EFI computer. I know someone who bought all the add ons to his stock computer (Z32 NA), and when he got it on the dyno, it was making less power than a stock Z32 NA that was in need of a tune up. Hey Azel, You live in Lowell? I'm in Windham New Hampshire. I've got a 72' 240Zt. Do you know Victor in Dracut? He's got a beauty of a 280Z turbo. Pete

Hey Tony, Pete here... I've had the Wolf 3D v3 in my Z for two years now, and I am completely satisfied with it. The v4 is supposed to be even better. The thing I like most about the Wolf, is that you can tune it yourself (at least good enough to drive it to the dyno). With the TechII, you need a trailer. I drove my car to a tuning shop that only installs TechII systems. He was amazed that I tuned it myself, for the first time. The Wolf logs O2 readings as you drive. While I wait for the turbo to cool down, I check all the fuel map points to see if any are rich or lean, and I make a fine adjustment. After driving the car 10 or so times, it was running great. It logs everthing. It seems that the TechIII finally has the logging capability. I still think the Wolf is a much better system, and it's way cheaper than everything except the SDS. Pete