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You can probably get another 20 to 30 HP by putting an N47 head on it. Also, a mild cam will get you more power over 5500RPM (as you would expect) The dyno plot below is for the following engine configuration: F54 with flattops N47 head with stock cam 6:1 header 1980 280ZX disty and coil Megasquirt fuel-only You should be able to get in the same ball park with well tuned SUs.

What version board are you running? Are you using series current limiting resistors? What are you PWM settings? Which driver is driving what injectors?

You need to pull the engine to rebuild it or replace it. It is much easier to find a good used engine, then do the swap, than it is to rebuild an engine. If you are new to mechanics, try doing an engine swap first. Before swapping anything, I would first be sure that the motor that is in there is bad. Just because the plugs are bacl and wet, doesn't mean the motor is junk. There could be problems with the fuel injection that is causeing it to run real rich. If you know the head gasket is blown (because a professional told you), then you can replace the head gasket. Yea, it's a lot of work, but it a lot cheaper than replacing the engine.

Leaning it out is one thing, keeping it drivable is another. I'm sure Nissan had fuel economy in mind when they switched to EFI. The system is pretty efficient on a stock motor when in good condition. On a modified motor you may be able to get some more economy out of it. But even with a slightly modified L28 (+1mm, flat tops, MN47 head, stock cam), I can still get close to 30MPG on the stock EFI.

You can use either processor. It all depends if you want to use any of the additional processing power MSII provides. It is really up to you. You can also take the processor from your MS v2.2 kit and use it in the MS v3.0 board too.

Could you achieve better economy with MS over the stock EFI? Maybe, but is it worth the effort? You could spend many hours tuning for econmy, and not achieve what a well tuned stock setup can do. I have a stock 280Z, and with the OEM EFI, it gets just over 28MPG. Not sure you can beat that with an MS, but with many hours of tuning, maybe you can. If you are looking at from a hobby/project point of view, it would be a fun experiment. If you are just trying to save $ on gas, get the stock system in good tune.

There are a bunch of guys running MS on 911s. Some are running EDIS for spark too. Find out more at the MSEFI forums: http://www.msefi.com

I you were just kidding, please remove your offensive post. Nothing positive can possible come from that kind of "kidding".

I use Loctite.

If there are two connectors on a Nissan TPS, the one on the pigtail is the one you want to use. That is the poteniometer connection. The connector molded into the TPS body is the switch connection.

Sounds cool, can you post some photos of the kit? You said the turbo is a Sanyo, but who made the kit? Also, if you scan and post the instructions. that would be cool too.

The stock regulator will work just fine, unless you are looking for bling.

I've used this pump on a bunch of applciaitons, including a 326WHP L28ET powered 240Z. It has flow for close to 500HP, and you can't be the price. So far they have been very reliable. BTW, you can get it a Summit Racing for $89.88.

Thought you were going to try and use the Stanza sensor. Get the early 90s 240SX sensor for manual transmission, without cruise control. It will have only one connector, the one you want.

Both v2.2 and v3.0 boards support variable resistance or potentiometer (pot) throttle position sensors. Some Nissan sensors are "switch" type, and some are pot type. Some actually combine both into one (240SX). Get yourself a decent multimeter. A pot type sensor will always have a fixed resistance (Ohms) between the outer terminals of the connector. It should be in the KOhms range. If you connect the meter between either outer pin and the center pin, and open and close the TB, you should see the resistance change. If the resistance changes from an open circuit (MOhms) to zero ohms, then it is a switch type. If the reistance varies smoothly between zero and the resistance you measured between the outer terminals, then you have a pot type sensor. This is the one you want.

Paul, Joe used to be the Wolf dealer for North America. I'm not sure who is now. The Wolf 3D is a nice unit. I've been running one inmy turbo car for about 6 years now without problems. Moby, I think you are correct, the latest firmware does support COP. Pete

I've seen a number of blow through 4 barrel setups, one was on a twin turbo Chevy small block 240Z. I saw it at the MSA show a few years back. The way to do it is presurize the entire carb (put it in a box). This guy had built an aluminum box that had a lexan top so you could still see the carb. Kind of cool looking. The Holley projection system is a POS IMO. You are better off with Megasquirt and port injection. Oh, and then you might as well run an 280Z manifold, and just forget about doing anything with that 4 barrel manifold and carb. Or, you can use a the Megasquirt ECU to control a TBI throttle body. Anyway, it's a lot of work to keep that manifold if you decide to go with fuel injection.

Paul, I run a Wolf 3D in my turbo car. I run RX7 coil packs as they have the coil drivers built in. Do you know Joe at J&B Welding in Spokane? Pete

OK, got the advance working with EDIS. It ended up being both the module, and the fact that I had the trigger angle set to 60. It should be zero for EDIS. So I put a new module in (thanks to a lovely Ford Aeorstar), and uploaded the latest firmware. Have the idle timing set to 35 deg (idles a bit lumpy, but much better than with the advance at 10 deg). Yea, it's a mutt (Ford ignition, Dodge RAM throttle body, Chrysler Coils, Jeep air intake, Toyota brake calipers), but it sounds incredible. Can't wait to get it on the dyno. Maybe next weekend. Hear are some new photos:

Maybe when Summit Racing asks Comp Cams for one, they deliver.... Price was great through Summit also.

Your fuel pressure should change with engine load (pressure). The regulator will keep the same pressure at the injector nozzle, so it must change as manifold pressure changes. The problem sounds like too rich a mixture. I had same problem with my turbo car after initial tuning. After an hour or so of tuning on the dyno, the mixture problem was corrected.

I hate to burst yours, but the one that I'm using I ordered from Summit Racing, and they ground it to order. It was ground by Comp cams in February 2006.

I would not assume that the colors are correct. I've seen aftermarket sensors with different color wire. Just about all throttle position sensors I've seen (GM, Dodge, Nissan, etc.) are configured the same way. The only difference is rotation vs resistance. - The middle wire is always Vref (it is the wiper in the poteniomerter) - The outer wires are either a positive voltage, or ground. Depending on how you connect the outer wires will determine if the resistance goes up or down when you open up the throttle. I always temporarily connect the TPS to test the rotation (be careful not to short the two outer wires together as you will be shorting +5V to ground) using the TPS calibrator in MegaTune. The "Closed Throttle ADC count" should aways be lower than the "Full Throttle ADC count".

OK, it looks like I found the problem. I'll know for sure tonight when I get a chance to fire it up. I have the "Trigger Angle" in the "Spark Settings" set to 60 deg, rather than 0. Duh!! I kind of ASSumed that since the missing tooth is located 60BTDC, I should also set the trigger angle to 60 deg. NOT! From what I read, the trigger angle is controlled within the EDIS module, not by the firmware in the MS. Another thing I discovered this weekend. Adding a 1uH choke in series with the SAW signal at the EDIS module removes the voltage spikes on the SAW signal. These spikes exceed 5V (closer to 10V), and could have a negative effect on the EDIS module, and timing consistancy. I'll verify the effect once I get the advance mechanism working. I will also post scope shots before and after. One more thing, that Chrysler coil pack put out a serious arc! I was testing to be sure I was getting spark on all cylinders by pulling plug boots one at a time with a rubber glove on. The spark jumped about 2 inches out of the boot to the plug. That makes the arc about 3 inches long! With a psark like that, this EDIS module/Chrysler coil pack combo should be great for boosted applications! On to the dyno session.

Sounds like your on the right track. Get all those ground wires cleaned up and you'll be good to go!