z-ya

No MAP restrictor should ever be required with MS. Moby is probably right about the decel fuel cut. Also check you acceleration enrichment settings.

Is the RPM always steady in MT when you are seeing the timing jump around? What does the wavform look like on the trigger input of the MS? It should be a pronouced +12V square wave. There should not be any glitches (narrow noise pulses). I if the RPM display in MT is always steady, then it is not an input problem, but an output problem to the MSD. Again, an HEI module will eliminate the MSD as the potential problem.

Can you eliminate the MSD for now by using an HEI module to see for sure if it is the MSD? So just to reiterate, when you first start it, it runs fine whether the engine is hot or not. But after a minute or so, it starts missing badly. If you check the timing, it is now way off. Does it matter if the engine ishot or not (or does it never have a chance to actually warm up?)? If you shut the engine off, and restart it, it runs fine for a minute or so, and then shows the same problem, correct? It does sound hardware related, but it could also be firmware. The firmware version and the version set in MT match, right? Do you get any errors when you start MT with the MS powered up and connected to your computer? When I try to load your file in my MT that is set up for 029q, I get these 8 warnings: C:WINDOWSDesktop280z_problems.msq:Open WARNING(04): Constant "Stg2ndParmDlt" units mismatch, "KPa" in msq, expected "kPa" from ini. WARNING(04): Constant "Stg2ndParmKPA" units mismatch, "KPa" in msq, expected "kPa" from ini. WARNING(04): Constant "VEFixValue" units mismatch, "kPa" in msq, expected "kpa" from ini. WARNING(04): Constant "afrBins1" units mismatch, "AFR" in msq, expected "Volts" from ini. WARNING(04): Constant "afrBins2" units mismatch, "AFR" in msq, expected "Volts" from ini. WARNING(04): Constant "bcBins1" units mismatch, "kPa" in msq, expected "kpa" from ini. WARNING(04): Constant "bcBins3" units mismatch, "kPa" in msq, expected "kpa" from ini. WARNING(04): Constant "splitkpaBins" units mismatch, "kPa" in msq, expected "kpa" from ini. When I first started working with MSn'E, I had problems with firmware version mismatches. I suggest fixing any warning messages before trying to debug any hardware problems.

Yes, you can autocross with the SCCA. SM2 is probably a good choice as far as class. The SCCNH is doing an autocross in October. Check their site for more information: http://www.sccnh.org/events.php . The SCCA events are a lot more crowded than the SCCNH events. Come by our local forum if you want to see what events we are planning next. We had a dyno testing day today: http://zccne.org/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl

What was the result of you last tests?

The stock injectors are good for around 250WHP at 100% duty cycle using the stock FPR. So for reliability reasons, you want to stay below 90% or so for a street engine, and probably less than 80% for a race engine. So I would start with 10psi and monitor you duty cycle. I'd say you can probably make around 225WHP while keeping the duty cycle below 90%. I'd pick up a set of used 380cc/min or larger injectors and be done with it. Then you can tune once on the dyno.

Rob, If you need help getting MT working and the correct formware loaded, send the ECU along with the harness.

Nope, the only nose I'll be picking is mine. If you just increasing the flow rate of the injectors, and add an adjustable RR FPR, you can get a decent full power tune. Chances are though that your idle and cruising mixture will be off, so your drivability will suffer. Either way, you will need to pay for dyno time. Also, with the AFM still in there, I don't think you will get to the 325HP number. The right way to do it is in my previous post.

BTW, the stock turbo injectors are only good for around 255WHP using the stock FPR. As I have said in the previous posts, you can get to 325WHP without any boring, stroking, or head work. This was at 13psi. So if you run 15-18psi, you might get the extra 50HP. All you need is an L28ET in good condition, a metal head gasket, fresh valve job and timing set if needed. That is it. The other stuff you will need: - Engine managment - T3/T4 turbo with stage 3 turbine and T04E housing - Intercooler - 380cc/min or bigger injectors - Higher output fuel pump ( I like the MSD pumps, good for 500HP) - 3" exhaust - Time on the dyno

Stock idle fuel pressure is 38psi or so, and full boost pressure can be well over 60psi depending on how much boost you are running. Run the stock pressure at idle, and either get a rising rate FPR, or add more injectors and an addition injector controller. Just increasing pressure will make it run rich except for full boost if you can adjust the pressure. See this thread for more information about changing injectors and or pressure. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114278

It's been around for close to 7 years.

If you are getting that voltage, then your new alternator is working fine. How old is your battery? Do you have a multimeter that can measure DC amps? Disconnect the battery + cable and connect the multimeter between the cable and the + terminal of the battery when every thing is off in the car. You shouldn't see very much current. Anything more than 100mA would certainly cause the battery to go dead in a few days. If it is drawing more than 100mA, pull each fuse from the fuse box one at a time until you see the current drop. This is the circuit that has the problem. Let me know how you make out.

I will barely run, if at all. The stock NA injectors are 180cc/min. You will be dumping more than 2x the fuel in there. If you switch to Megasquirt, you can retune for the new injectors.

What are you using for an ECU?

You can put any injector in there that will mechanically fit properly to the intake manifold. And depending on what fuel rail you use, it needs to seal properly to it. Any Bosch style injector will fit. Now when it comes to flow rate, if you retain the stock engine management, you are pretty much stuck with the stock 280cc/min injectors. If you put anything larger in there, it will run rich over all operating conditions. You have a couple of options as far as adding more fuel for increased boost levels. You can use an adjustable rising rate FPR to tune for max boost and power, keeping the stock injectors. This will get you the proper tune for max power (within the limit of the stock injector flow rate), but you may have some rich or lean conditions during idle, or part throttle condiitions. You can also add an aditional injector controller. SDS makes one that looks pretty nice. You will need to add a couple extra injectors to the intake plumbing before the throttle body. The controller will only activate the addiitonal injectors at a boost level you program. So you can keep you idle, and cruise mixtures stock, and then tune for max boost and power. This is the best approach IMO if you want to keep the stock ECU. Many people have modified the stock ECU by using Z31 components. This is an option if you are real good at this kind of stuff. For me, the sooner I can get that 20+ year old electronics out of there, the better. Lastly, if you go with an aftermarket engine management system that allows complete tunability, you can use any flow rate injector you want. I would stay less than 450cc/min so that you can still get a smooth idle.

It shouldbe +12V. Try turning the engine by hand to see if the voltage goes to 12V.

Is the Megasquirt on?

I find it hard to believe that I stretched the rods when the rev limiter is set to 6500RPM. And, one of the gaps was at least 5 times what it should have been. I'm still convinced I had the wrong heat range. Wll know for sure after next event in October.

You can easily get 325WHP on a stock long block with absolutely no head work. You need a T3/T4 with at least a stage 3 turbine wheel. The other important thing is engine management and a good intercooler. And lastly, time on the dyno to get a good tune. I've tuned a number of stock L28ET long blocks and produced 325WHP on 13psi of boost. The remaining 50HP you are looking for is going to cost you lots of time and money, and in the end it's just bragging rights. You will also loose some drivability on the street, and proabably increase the amount of lag in the system. Start with a 325WHP goal, and measure the smile on your face. Then decide if the remaining 50HP is worth the effort.

Paul, Thanks, I think you figured it out. I'm running BP6ES in there now. I'll try some BP8ES I have on hand. It makes sense that if the plug is not dissipating enough heat (because it is not cold enough), the electrode will get too hot. At this point the cylinder pressures will cause it to move because the electrode is fairly soft. Thanks,

As much advance as possible without detonation over all operating conditions 8^)

Nope, nothing in the cylinders that I know of. Unless, somthing got in through the intake. I'm not using an air cleaner now. It had just rained, so there was no dust or dirt. Maybe some rubber? Hopefully it's out of there by now. I have a Supertrapp on there, I should see if there is any debris in there. Yea, the photos came out good. I'm running 225lb front, and 250lb rear. I think I do need stiffer springs. I've got pretty heafty sway bars but it still has a fair amount of body roll.

Hear's a good one for ya.... I was at the track this weekend with the supercharged car, and it ran great for the first 4 sessions. Then it started running progressively worse. I checked everything, and then the plugs. Three plugs had gaps that we way off. Two the gap was almost closed, and the other the gap was probably 5 times what it should have been. The plugs do not look like any detonation happened, and the compression on all cylinders is within spec. I corrected the gaps, and it runs fine. Any ideas? A couple photos from the event:

It is the coil driver. The engine runs at an audible frequency (duh...), so even the firing of the coil you can hear. Since a fair amount of current is unduced in the wiring around the MS (because you are using the internal coild driver), you can acutally hear it. No, it is not a problem, and you certainly don't need a new MS. The car is running fine, right? Remeber, in all production cars, the coil driver is located in the engine compartment, so you can not hear it over the engine. Your coil driver is in the passenger compartment. I would re-check you assembly just be sure you don't have an incorrect value capacitor installed somewhere. That could cause a resonant frequency close to the engin RPM. This could cause the coil firing energy to be audibly amplified at those frequencies.

Why not use a larger diameter triggger wheel, that's what I did on my SC setup. Let me know what diameter you need and I will check to see if a freind will make me another one. Pete