konradlip
-
Posts
106 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Everything posted by konradlip
-
Go to this website https://www.pegasusautoracing.com and check out this part numbers 1.HE050-03P-000 2.HE095-03P-000 3.3260-3-INCH Total cost is 55 without shipping but its quality and perfect fit. I'm thinking 44 inches should be enough
-
Guys try this for help https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3142 it should eliminate the need to re-tap
-
its a m12x1.25 banjo bolt i believe
-
Pac_Man i was thinking about having a AN4 line with the end that is 0.08 in diameter from this website http://www.siliconeintakes.com/braided-stainless-steel-lines/-p-598.html along with the hose i mentioned above. Scapy- the turbo feed line connect from a little metal block (that has a pressure sender on the end off it) thats about 3 inches right off the oil filter to the top of the middle of the turbo. send me pics of what you got. sorry i dont have any but I just got a new phone today and all my pics are gone
-
I would buy the stock one from z store but it seems to be more than a aftermarket one. Does anyone know what kind of fitting i need to connect to the little metal splitter where oil pressure sender is. I know the other end is a banjo fitting. Also what kind of oil restrictor do I need?
-
I'm in the process of redoing a couple of thins on my l28et swapped 280z and i noticed that the oil line for the turbo is kinked in few places. I want to replace it while the intake and exhaust manifold is off. I dont want to go cheap but I also dont want to spend a 100 dollars. I was thinking maybe SS line or should I just get a brake line and bend it. I done some research and it left me with more questions than answers. I did find this http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=OL-AN4-90S-51&Category_Code=FUSM and i was wondering what are your thought on it and maybe what else besides that would I need to mount it. Thanks guys. PS also I want to upgrade the turbo in the future to T3/T4 so I want something future proof.
-
They dont have those coolant lines. MSA has them but they aree pretty pricey considering i can get silicone ones for 4 buck a foot
-
Im in a process of replacing my intake manifold and fixing some issues on my l28et swapped 280z. What i noticed is that the coolant like on the side of the block feels really rubbery and soft like they are about to burst. While I'm at it I decided to replace the lines just to be on the safe side. Basically all the line that run on the passenger side of the block but without the heater core lines that go into a cabin. I dont know where to get all the lines so I tough about replacing them with silicone ones and I wanted to know your thought on this. Did anyone done that before and if so do you have pictures or where can i find a replacement for the stock ones. Thanks guys
-
I had the same problem with my alternator and what I found out was that the alternator wasnt getting enough voltage to to get energized and actually start working.
-
I just got a new alternator from Advance Auto and my car is still not charging. I know that often they are bad out of the box.but I want to make sure it couldn't be anything else. I removed my dash so my gauges are not plugged in. I did a extra ground to the engine block. Just for reference I have a 1977 280z with a l28et and megasquirt.
-
Im also having similar issue. My alternator is not charging in my l28et swapped 280z. Im wondering if its because of the fact that all my gauges are disconnected? Does the alternator need some kind of signal wire to start working?. The car start id I jump it but the voltage starts dropping and I shut it off around 7 volts. I dont have the external VR its been jumped by the previous owner and im wondering if he connected the wrong blue wire. can someone tell me what color wires are suppose to be jumped? Thanks
-
Having the gauge is nice especially if you are planning on staying with the stock fuel pressure regulator. If not you can always add a gauge on a aftermarket one. I also have the supra injectors from my mk3
-
If i did set it up only for spark output A would i have to change my trigger wheel trigger pos since only A would be used. I know if i dont do that I will get a error from tunerstudio.
-
thats what i want to do but i dont feel like replacing every single thing on there. im trying to do this one step at a time but i have no idea about megasuirt. everywhere i look there are different answers to what my setup is. one tells me vr sensor one tells my optical on tells me use all three spark outputs one tells me use only one. it confusing.
-
i know my spark works because when i had it setup for vr sensor it did fire, just no at the right time. my problem now is that im not getting the rpm signal.
-
wow. if you are looking at the pic i posted then my setup is more like this N/C Power Signal Ground Also I'm using a turbo 1983 dizzy with DIY trigger wheel and Im set up for optical sensor in my ecu. That includes Tachselect to Optin, Tsel to Optout, XG1 to XG2, D1 and D2 jumped and a 1k 1/2w resistor from 12s to tachselect So should i change the spark output to only LED 17 if im only running single coil??? Because thats not what it says on the diy website. Thanks
-
also on a previous page i have a pic of the dizy can anyone make a drawing or diagram of how exactly the turbo dizzy is suppose to be wired.
-
so i was on the phone with matt from diy and he told me to resolder everything for optical sensor. so i did that and now im not getting any signal at all. idk what should I do. i did the tachselect to optin and tsel to optout
-
my tune is just two post up in the link. and thats how my tooth logger looks like more or less( the tall ones are tall and the rest are medium but not all exactly the same length. also i have a picture of a dizzy cables connected above. can you verify that the dizzy is connected correctly? thanks. Also my craking first jumps to like 400 then down to around 200 and stays there until i stop cranking then it gangs around 80 for like a second and died down.
-
So where im stuck at is ignition timing. the spark coming from the coli seems to be all over the place. it not firing evenly while i crank the engine. number 2 and 5 plugs seem to be the only ones the get spark. all this seems be off. i twist the r52 and r56 and i keep getting different timing. im also using a tooth and trigger logger but i dont know what im aiming for. if someone could send me a screenshot of how their trigger and tooth logger looks like that would be great.
-
as i remember my cranking dwell is set to 6.0 and running dwell is set to 3.5 but just in case here is the link to my tunerstudio settings. Im running ms1 v3 with turbo dizzy and diy trigger wheel https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-in6Y4tSXL3ZVhiMk5WX1Q4Yks5WmJxNWU2b3lMTV8xdDln/edit?usp=sharing
-
My bad I didnt mean injectors I meant spark plugs. LOL. I did connect the timing light to the number 1 injector and it doesnt get spark ever tho the dizzy does. Thats why im thinking that the spark is not strong enough to jump or that my trigger angle and trigger pos on tunerstudio may be wrong. I talked to a guy from DYI and he said that the trigger angle for their trigger wheel may only be between 50 and a 100. ans from the previous pictures I posted the dizzy shaft seems to be at the right place comparing to the 280zx FSM. so I figured it has to be timing related. Maybe I need to twist the R56 and R52 and log in the signal? maybe I need a better signal wire? IDK and I'm sad:(
-
I know I have spark for two reasons. one i put the lead out of the coil to the manifold and i can see spark. Also I hooked up the timing light to the wire between the dizzy and the coil. Also what I mean by spark timing is when the spark is created and the dizzy rotor in not facing any of the 6 wires. So basically the spark cant jump anywhere.
-
So I finally have spark!!! But now I have another problem. I get spark from the coil to the dizzy but not to individual injectors. Seems the timing is off. I dont know if its the ECU or the actual dizzy timing. I put my engine once again at TDC and this is how my dizzy looks like. I know I can twist the dizzy a little to adjust it but i tried TunerStudios trigger angle from 50 all the way to a 100 and non of them seem to work. Also to get the spark in the first place I twisted the R52 and R56. Maybe the spark is to weak to jump or maybe I need to adjust the R52 and R56 some more? Please HELP
-