streeteg

So i keep freakin missing the deals on the FS section so I figured I would be proactive. I unfortunately have neither the tools nor the skills (or time for that matter) to undertake the sectioning of my own struts--- nor can i justify the cost at this point in the recession of paying full price. So those who are parting out please take note of my wtb

I got some as well- 50 shipped w/ 2 sets of wheel locks

for 100 bucks you got yourself a winner no matter how you look at it. The 20 is a potent motor for some decent power. If you were really looking to make big power you would know that this motor wont do it without serious cash and you would just grab a 26. The fact that your asking this question implies (at least to me) that you want to know the potential. For 100 bucks I would rip this motor down all on my own and try to build it up---pistons/rods, headgasket, cams, 6boost manifold and a 30r. Keep the power at around 400whp all day so that your trans is hanging on (barely) and you have yourself a fun time. With as light as a Z is it should be plenty.

yeah its pretty bad----

good luck finding tires that you dont have to stretch-- I have 15x10 work equips and the widest street tire I can find is a 225/50/15 without stepping the sidewall up to drag radial sizes. The only 275/35/15 is the hoosier or a Nitto 555r which is a road race compound or drag radial.

Thanks man...I have been following your build for a while- Car looks great. I am definately going to pick your brain about your coilover install as thats my next thing to do. Regardless thanks for the help We are gonna attempt to complete the rest of the install this weekend. Ill keep everyone posted. -Eric

I have a set of black door panels out of my 260 with I stripped my interior. Solid 9/10.

OK so here is the story---- Below is a pic of the exhaust side of an RB26block stripped in preparation for a full race single t4 turbo kit. Each piece either flows oil, coolant or vacuum, and I was curious to know which was which in regards to oil feed, return, water feed and return and vacuum. Going from 2 turbos to one threw me for a loop--- any insight? Also, There is another coolant line that wraps to the front of the block that goes into the thermostat. For those curious the car is a r33 skyline. Anyway, the different lines are numbered 1-6. If you have done a single turbo conversion and can give me some insight on what numbers you used for your feeds if any that would be great. THanks guys Eric

I cut a piece of wood to sit flush on top of the tray built into the metal of the trans tunnel. Its fit the the exact size of the top of the tray as it tapers. Then I used a screw to create pressure between the plate and the tunnel to hold it in place. I wrapped it in alcantara and ran the wires in a protected loom in the trans tunnel. Switches do everything from HID lighting, fans, guage power, guage lights, radio main power etc.

Ok so i figured I would post a conclusion for all those who were following. By trial and error this has been my conclusion--- however given the circumstance of how the installation went-- I didnt have the opportunity to take exact measurements. The clutch engages wonderfully now--- better then the stocker ever did---and it even feels (at first drive) faster--- probably due to the slipping clutch i removed. With the original clutch/flywheel setup the RB20 trans and throwout collar were at their max potential on my car... meaning when i depressed the clutch it BARELY disengaged the clutch. So in my opinion (no measurements to back it up) with a resurfaced flywheel, and the ACT PP and 6 puck disk, the overall combination was thinner then OEM setup--- therefore not allowing the throwout bearing enough travel to disengage the clutch. Solution: We pulled apart the RB20 trans and replaced the throwout collar with a ka/sr unit which is 3/8" longer then the original bearing/collar I had in there. Now with everything back together, when the pedal was depressed the clutch would disengage, however i still felt a slight bit of resistance when turning the driveshaft.... so with everything adjusted for max throw there was only one thing getting in the way--- and it was teh clutch pedal block plate that stopped the pedal from going all the way to the floor. Removed with the rotozip--- I now have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch.

Well I got a longer collar from a SR trans--- so before I put anything in measurements will be taken. I am sure the clutch fork is properly engaging---it actuates on the input shaft when the trans is out and you can see the indents of pressure on the fingers of the PP cause its brand new. MY guess isi its just not pushing it far enough. We will keep your eye out for the trans having to be pulled together with bolts--- but hopefully it gives me the few extra mms i need to get this thing to disengage.

Thanks for the explanation--- I've done clutches before but you have to be a lot more technical when troubleshooting so I am still learning all the terms. As I figure this out and get a different collar--- how detrimental is it if I get a collar thats too long. Can that be catastrophic or does that mean that the pedal will be maxed out before it actually touches the floor? -E

I have an RB in mine--- and I found no info of the fact that the collar had to be replaced until now. I believe the KA collar is longer but I will have to measure today. The problem is before the clutch install everything worked! I will follow that process though to find out if the collar is long enough....we will see. Thank you though for the help. -Eric

Sorry for not being technical enough but I still dont know what you are referring to

ears and tab height? Im not super experienced with the terminology--- can you be more descriptive?

Here is a quick picture of the bearings that I am using. The one that is on the right came from the trans and was re used. The one on the left came from the spare trans--- AS you can see the height looks to be the same on both---- which is why they didnt work--- hwoever the one on the right looks as if the bearing was pressed too far down--- and it no longer has the reach--- however if you press the clutch in--- it should at least want to go in gear a little bit in my opinion... Anyway check them out

I am using the original throwout sleeve that worked on the car....its an RB20 transmission...

the car jumps forward

yes it will. And when you depress the clutch to release it from gear when the car is off and in gear-- the car does not move as if the clutch isnt functioning.

At JoAnn Fabrics (you can see a theme here) there is "headliner adhesive". I used that. Its unbelieveably strong--- so if I do plan on replacing it its probably not a smart move. but I neve have to worry about it coming off . You can use any 3M stlye adhesive and it will probably do just fine--- that and the headliner stuff is like 20 bucks a can.

Motor- RB25det Trans- rb20det Going from Original Clutch, PP and Flywheel to ACT HD pp and 6 puck clutch. OK so after 2 days, 2 slaves, 2 masters, a new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel- my clutch does not work. The last thing I have to do is put in my spare trans but I wanted to post up before I did so. Heres the deal. This weekend I replaced my clutch, due to the fact that my car because increasingly harder to get in gear when the clutch was depressed. I removed the slave cylinder and replaced it thinking that was probably the culprit, fully bleeding the system and it was not. Now the clutch was pretty much non existant. When the car was on and in neutral, depressing the clutch pedal did not allow the car to go into gear AT ALL. not even reverse. So I figured ok---- its all original stuff-- its probably screwed up so lets order a new clutch. I put everything in-- and still the same problem. We even adjusted the rod on the clutch pedal for more throw. Here are the kickers- New Clutch, PP Flywheel New Master Cylinder New Slave Culinder When you push the clutch, the slave pushed the fork the appropriate distance. The fork/Throwout bearing definately work they were tested before gpogm pm the car. Now--- Even though we 100% checked everything I thought MAYBE we put the clutch disk on backwards.... Doubtful-- but at this point my only hope.. So I drop the trans again last night. (The 2nd time only took an hour compared to the 4 it took originally... +1 for experience) only to find out thats not the case--- and were back to square 1 So where I sit now-- the original trans is on the ground I have a spare trans. The clutch and PP are off. and I am waiting for someone with a tad more experience to mention something I may have missed so that I dont go through all the effort of getting the car back together to have the same issue again... Can anyone help!!????? Thanks in advance- Eric

even so thats still made to order. Nobody really stocks the parts

Off the shelf... not many. Best look for something used.

that greddy manifold looks horrible! As for the car--- well simply amazing to be honest- ONe of my favorite Z builds on the site---Also you have been wealth of info to the board so im all about it. Did you do a retrofit on your HIDs? Cause just to get some sort of light i threw in an H4 kit but would love to do a retrofit when I get some time. -E

Also-- one more thing I must say--- is that before pulling everything apart the clutch engaged VERY close to the floor. AKA i didnt have to let the clutch out at all for it to engage--- i would say abotu a half inch of travel before it engaged--- is this a result of a throwout collar/bearing being too short?