Derek

Well the noise gives me a massive chub every time I stomp the gas so there's that:) Seriously for a street car looks and sound need to play into your decision process because ITB's make literally everything induction related much harder.

That is copper plating. It is masking for the heat treat process. The cams are copper plated then everywhere you want hardened you grind away the copper. This keeps the inside of the cam soft and chewy

Got the V2 cam cores back from Crane. I've incorporated the thrust area into the actual cam. The Honda and V1 has a washer that bolts to the cam. This change allowed me to strengthen the front of the cam and also do away with the cam gear adapters. On the front of the cam I had 3 dowel holes drilled. The only way to adjust the cam timing on the K24 is to buy or make modified cam gears with offset dowel holes. The single dowel gives you 2.5 degrees adjustment at the crank per hole. By using three holes I was able to split that to 1.25 degrees advanced and 1.25 degrees retard. This is a big improvement over V1 with the adjustable hubs. The cam is semi finished from Crane. The lobes will be dialed in buy whomever ends up doing the final grind. Slowly but surely making progress.

Not much going on. I pressure tested the casting before resin impregnation at 75 psi and it passed with flying colors. I still had it impregnated though. The head is in transit to the machine shop to have the valve work done. I don't have the cam cores back from Crane yet but I'm expecting them soon. They still have to go out for finished grind on the lobes. Kind of at a standstill until I get the head back. Derek

I think they could have explained why they didn't agree with the approach. But I totally agree with them not wanting to do what they think is wrong. Were you looking for a set price or were you paying time and materials. I'll make anything anyone wants for time and materials. I just won't put my name on it. And as others has stated it's all about good reviews. You really don't want to subject yourself to negative feedback if you can help it.

V1 was running great but needed some work for a variety of reasons. It actually stayed on a lot longer than I thought it would. I always had reservations about the way I had the timing chain guides and decided to test a new setup before I committed to V2. I'm using both the KA24 guides and pivoting the tensioner rail at the top. Excuse the dirty mockup block I'm using as I didn't have time to clean it. I also had 1mm shaved which brought the chambers to 50cc. It's back together and runs great except for some chain noise. I had to modify the timing cover for the slack side guide to clear. I can see with a flashlight that it's rubbing so that could be it. I'm going to run it for a few days and then tear it down. I hate to because it runs great. Derek

V2 has been with the new owner for the last few weeks. He has been cleaning up the ports. It's like a million degrees right now in central Florida so it's slow going. He did a great job as far as I'm concerned. He will finish the port match after the valve work is done. I had a couple different exhaust bolt patterns on V2 and unfortunately I loaded an old one by mistake. I caught it after the first hole and the water soluble coolant drained out of the hole. Never a good sign. The head is heat treated to T6 so I didn't want to weld them up . So there is an extra set of spot drills. NBD. I have a few holes to finish tapping and then it goes out for resin impregnation. Then it's back to me for pressure testing then off to have the valve work done. Derek

The plan all along for me was to make this available for a long time. There are people planning turbo builds with the head but who knows when that will happen. There has been progress and other than this all consuming build I don't have a lot going on. Lots of regular work though so that's nice. I'm uploading new pics now so stay tuned.

The towers were used and I think one was bured a bit. It loosened up during the course of assembly. With the new towers it remains to be seen. I'm hoping that my machining method will be true enough but I won't know for sure until I get the cams back and the head surfaced.

Probably going to make up air filters like I'm running on mine so there won't be a traditional air box. We are going with Megasquirt. I've been really happy with my system and the tuner I hooked up with is really good with them. He's going to take care of all of it as I don't have time to mess with that end of it.

That's funny. I just sent an email to my client a couple of hours ago that he should be looking at pulling the trigger soon on the ITB's because of the exchange rate:) I don't know about the fuel rail overhanging the inlets. Do you have any comparison of a standard cross bar style linkage vs the cable bell crank style you are using now? Cross bar is the type most triple setups run. Thanks for the info on the levers and springs. Derek

The OSG is above the head plane but it's an add on so it's not a problem. Even if I could easily incorporate it into the casting I wouldn't as it may not be right for certain builds or layouts. For this build I may machine a housing that screws into the 1 1/4" npt that will hold the thermostat and 2 temp sensors. I'll use the 3/4" NPT bung at the front for the bypass. This build is getting the Jenvey THS52i 52mm throttle bodies. I'm glad to hear you like yours. Can you post or PM me some pics of your linkage setup? I'm using the same basic manifold as I have on mine but I'm making a new top pattern without injector bosses.

Right now it's going to be an inline. I don't know the exact config yet but I've tapped the the outlet 1-1/4 NPT. I may end up welding something to it or using the threads. There is a 3/4 NPT boss at the front that could be utilized as a bypass. Right now as it's designed so you can surface the top of the head without dodging anything. I couldn't fit the thermostat housing in there without it being above the plane. Tony and I agreed having a round boss would offer the most versatility. I'm tapping it now because it's in the machine. One area I'm a little shy on is real estate for temp switches. I may have to weld a couple bosses on. With the OSG head (i'm not dissing it) You build according to the head you are given. With the KN20 the head is tailored to the build you are doing. It wouldn't be impossible. Especially if you are going to powdercoat the valve cover. If the K20 coils will work electronically then they would be the best choice as they will fit physically. There would need to be a boss added to the valve cover at each plug but that isn't a big deal. Derek

Wish mine looked this good:) Thats a piece of 1.25" linear shaft that I'm using as a gauge rod. It's a little snug when I tighten the bolts but the top of the head is nowhere near flat so I'm not surprised. Yes the numbers will be smaller on the next set of caps:)

If you have the money then you should buy custom pistons. But like every product even people who can afford it hit a price point where it's all stop. You cross that line and it's hard to get back on the other side of it. It will be interesting to see what 10.8:1 CR will perform like on a NA build. He can run it for a while and if he want's more CR then he can go that direction and change out the pistons. The B motors ran 10.2 - 10.8 CR.

Not sure on the time frame. Crane is 7 weeks to get the semi finished cores done. I talked to Crower and they said they could put one of their grinds on it since at that point it's a normal cam core. That's another couple of weeks. Crane just doesn't have any stage 1 type grinds in their library. I'll have the head done with the initial machining next week and I'm hoping everything else is done by the time the cams are done. After that it's someone else's (the owner) time table but he's ready to keep it moving forward. It's not a simple swap. Converting to ITB's from carbs at the same time. Yes this is a NA build. Rebello kit with a 81mm stroke. Getting the chamber to 45 is a big deal. using the Ozdat calculator A normal 83mm crank stroker with 240 rods and a KA piston with -2.6 dish will make 11.3 :1 static CR. That means if you are running that combo currently it becomes a head swap only. If you have that combo and are turbo I can just make the chamber larger. The price for my stroker just went way down:) I can't afford a 9000 RPM monster so I'm going to build a fairly mild stroker. I have all the parts except the pistons and now I can buy off the shelf. derek

All right you asked for it. Got the bottom side completely finished. Surfaced, head bolt holes and dowels, water passages. Chamber roughing pass. Finish pass completed. The chamber size is 45cc's. This should yield a 10.8:1 CR on the build without changing the pistons. Thanks Derek

That would be really close. When I put my motor in the first thing I did after it was bolted in was to put the hood on and clay between the hood and oil cap. There was less than an inch. Probably 13/16". There may have been 20mm but I didn't measure it. An oil plug as opposed to a cap would pick up another .787" I love America, where I'm expected to be able to work in imperial fractional, imperial decimal and metric. I'd like to shoot whoever stopped us converting to metric in the 70's.

Agreed. What I'm saying is project the outline of the combustion chamber onto the top of the piston and dish only that. The quench pads on the head are still interacting with the flat areas of the piston. I can't do the kind of hand work people like PMC and Rebello do so I look to technology and it's precision. So if I had a combustion chamber like the one on the OSG head I would be looking at ways to not have to hand grind each chamber. That one just popped into my head.

Got V2 back from radiology and it looks great. The changes I made to the gating and risers solved the bad shrink porosity I had in the front. Got it all set up in the mill. If it aint crashing it's clearance. Won't be many updates as it's basically the same as last time. If I see something interesting while I'm machining I'll post a pic. Derek

Not so much if you have to ask and more like I'm not sure yet:) Here is what I do know. Raw castings, head, valve cover, timing cover. $4500.00 Machining all of that so that an automotive machine shop can do their thing. At least $1500-$2000. I've only done one so far. I'll know better after V2. Camshafts. Better figure $2000.00 - 2200.00 for the pair finish ground ready to go. Automotive machining basic. $1500.00 - $2000.00 Parts: These are prices I banged together working off of the internet. Valves $200.00 - $500.00 Springs and retainers $500.00 - $800.00 Exhaust guides $75.00 intake guides $75.00 valve seals $60.00 12 rockers $28.00 each $336.00 exhaust shafts $75.00 intake shafts $75.00 Better add another $1000.00 for stuff that I can't remember right now. Plus you need induction and exhaust. Better have $15000.00 in the bank or plan on using used stuff like I did or working deals. V2 is a paying job with all new parts so I'll have a much better idea of pricing. Cheaper than OSG but still freeking pricy. Plus you'll actually be able to get one as I don't plan to be stingy:)

Based on his instagram account he seems to know what he's doing. The OSG head he's restoring is amazing.

Look I'm starting to buy in bulk:) Got the valve covers on Friday. This time the firing order filled great but there was a short run on one of the ribs. Nothin that a little tigging won't fix. I have to do a little more work to the pouring basins as they are having trouble keeping it choked up with metal. You wouldn't beleive how much math and Voodoo goes into designing a pouring system.

Any reason why you wouldn't dish the piston as opposed to working the chamber? Seems you could machine the outline of the combustion chamber into the piston. The quench areas would stay the same. If you wanted to be really anal you could cc each chamber and change the depth of each dish to match the chamber. Removing 1mm of depth at the perimeter of my chamber changed it from a 53cc to a 44 cc chamber.

Thanks Yes. It made it tricky because now if I screw up the machining on one in the later stages then it's a specific location. Fortunately 2, 5,and 6 are the same. 4 is the odd bird and 1 and 7 are specific because they are front and rear. Bottom line...Don't screw up the machining:)