Derek

Man that really sucks. I was just exchanging PMs a month or so ago. So sad. My condolences.

Those are all the pics I have. I will say that it is still in perfect shape with no de-lamination and up until I blew the motor it was parked out in the Florida heat every day. Realistically I'm thinking it's better than stock as far as longevity goes. I did the SEM fill the crack method and it just cracked in another place. Anything you paint on is a temporary fix. My experience thermoforming speaker panels made me realize the problem isn't the quality of the cover but the stresses put against it when you install it.

Question for you Florida peeps. I'm looking for a machine shop in central florida with a Serdi valve machine. After my problem with V1 dropping a seat I'm inclined to steer away from any shop that doesn't do seats on a regular basis or with a modern machine. Rebello is hooked up with someone but I really don't want to ship my head across the country and back if I don't have to. Thanks Derek

Caps get a bad rep because they don't fit perfectly and then they are installed poorly. If you look at what I had to do in my thread in order to get it to fit you'll see that there is a ton of material that needs to be removed.

Here is how I did mine.

Silly me:)

Single stage or base/clear. What brand. Absolutely need new hardener. If you are paying to get it done you may have trouble getting the paint shop to get onboard using paint of unknown origins. Derek

Instead of spamming this forum maybe you should go away.

That looks normal to me for glass beading. Raw castings are usually shot blasted then machined. I found that putting parts in a vibratory finisher after blasting restores some of the luster. I can fit my DOHC valve cover in my finisher. If you look closely you can see the difference. V3 is in the foreground and it has been shot blasted and then run in my vibratory finisher with burnishing media and liquid. V2 in the middle has only beed shot blasted. You can see a slight luster on V3. Here are two parts I glass beaded. And here they are after vibratory finishing. There are many types of finishing media. Burnishing media is what gives the parts the luster. Derek

Well that looks like fun. I was messing with Rfactor for a while and even started modeling a 240Z for it. I decided to make a twin cam head instead:) The thing I noticed was it's more about the physics settings on the car more than the look of the car. Garbage in garbage out. I may have to pull my driving seat out of storage!

I think what project binky showed me the most was that you can fit stuff in the space pretty easily. Getting it all to work properly without killing you is the tough part. What good is all that effort if it handles like a mini van.

V3 is going on a tall deck 3.5L with a custom crank and pistons. Normally aspirated. Should be high 4's for horsepower.

Since I'm planning on trying out VCT on my build I figured I'd better finalize the valving. For me it's alway a balance of (not necessarily in this order) function, manufacturing and style. On the VCT it's always function first since what's the point if it looks better than it works. I knew what valve I wanted to use ( manufacturing) and where it needed to go (function) but not how to make it work ( manufacturing ) and not have it be butt ugly (style). I picked the valve I did because of the fact it came with it's own manifold. This makes manufacturing a lot easier since I don't have to do any precision boring. Since it's an open pressure (bleed) circuit believe I need to locate the valve as close to the cam phaser as possible to try and minimize the response lag. I also have to deliver a pretty good volume of oil at times where a fast response is necessary. I mapped out the valve with the 4 circuits. Oil in, 2 drains, advanced and retard. The valve is a spring return and defaults to retarded cam position. Retarded seems to be the default for the phaser as well. Which makes sense. Lets start with the fact that I'm not crazy style wise about hanging this valve off of the front of the timing cover. But it's the closest I can get it to the phaser and still be able to plumb it. Here is a shot of the final plumbing. Red is oil in. Light blue are the drains. brown is retard and purple is advance. Since I didn't want the valve there to begin with you can imagine how I felt when I finally gave in to the fact that I needed a .625" thick manifold block to handle all the cross drilling. I tried a bunch of scenarios but it would have added a ton of time to the machining because of doing that kind of work on a short production run casting is tough. I also had to flip the valve 180 from my original position to get the advance and retard ports to match the head. It's all about compromises in life:) Derek:

Shielded wire and single point grounding will be your friend.

Family Portrait. V1 V2 V3 I snapped this before I shipped V3 to Rebello and V2 went for a visit to it's owner. Probably (hopefully) the last time they will be all together. My feeble attempt at an art shot Things move pretty quick around these parts:)

I went the patch method as well and like others it just cracks in a new spot. Here is a pretty long how to on bonding a dash cap to my dash. It's been over a year and up until I trashed the head it was sitting outside daily in the florida heat. There are no signs of delimitation. Not the cheapest rout but if you do it right it's probably the last time you will need to do it. Derek http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125411-advanced-dash-recover-project/

Mr Monkey you really need to pay better attention. Post #1116 clearly shows VCT being implemented. You are receiving 1 demerit Here is one of the pics to make it easier

Geez Paul you haven't posted since 2015 and this is all we get:)

I think the throttle bodies with the built in bungs are the way to go if you already have a DCOE manifold. For me at the time the kit was appealing because I knew I wouldn't be constrained design wise. Now if I was going to do it all over again....Heritage Throttle Body all the way. That is as long as they get around to doing it in 48mm like they said.

When you add up all of the stuff in the kit purchasing them piecemeal the price goes up quite a bit. Now if you are going to discard some of the parts like linkage then it makes better sense to buy individual. Also the ones you linked to have a built in injector bung. Which is a plus if you want it. The kit I got requires bungs in the manifold which is what I wanted.

I'm happy with mine for sure. One of the butterflies is slightly off center and it has a little stick-age problem if you run closed blade idle bypass but if you crack the blades for your idle it's not a problem. The outer edges of the bodies were sharp but that was fine as I just hit them with a deburing tool. The kit had everything I needed to get it working. I did manage to knock one of the velocity stacks off of its base but it snapped right back on and never was a problem again. I had about 6000 miles on them before my head $hit the bed. I think for the money they are the best deal out there.

I'm running the Melling M111. I did some volume tests and was pretty satisfied with it's output. No hard numbers just testing when I was initially setting up my DOHC head. Derek

Hey those look familiar.

You can post the pics directly here if you want. That way you don't have to go through this dance every time a hosting service decides to cash in.

Do you know if these have metal outer rings? It seems like some that I have seen are chromed plastic.