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About McGruber21

  • Birthday July 21

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    Anything Datsun, Z cars, 510, roadster, 620.

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  1. I've since converted to Triple Webers, but your approach would be the best fix.
  2. Let me double check my parts bin but I believe I have one for a L24. I'll shoot you some pictures soon.
  3. They sold for $175.00 USD
  4. I have another set of L24 rods with 9mm bolts measuring 133mm center line to center line. I sold a set about a year ago for $150, is that still a fair price? should I ask more or less?
  5. Thank you! Just like with cars, I got bit by the watch bug, no Tag Heuer's yet but I do have a couple of legendary brands.
  6. I've meet a lot of car guys who are also watch guys, so I thought id share a watch modification I made. It was a Seiko SNK809 Black Seik 5 (first image) Automatic watch I replaced the crystal with a Domed AR coated sapphire crystal and replaced the factory dial with a dial from a seiko SKX009 and placed the watch on a brown leather strap. Second photo is the completed result. Third photo is the completed watch on a NATO strap next to another Modified watch I made. last photo is the completed watch(left) next to a stock SKX009(right) I got inspiration from https://medium.com/@pixelthing/my-seiko-snk-po-mo-1d5b71f1c6d5
  7. Post a video, but Miles is right. My 77 280z had noisy injectors (electric solenoid clicking) turns out they where stock from the factory, so I bench cleaned them which cleared up some clicking, but eventually I replaced all of them with new Bosch set. That's just how it is sometimes with 40 year old electronics.
  8. I bought aftermarket parts from Dragon Motorsport (I think that was the name of it) before it went out of business. I ended up buying more parts than I needed. I want to know how much I could sell the passenger side fender, I payed a couple hundred for it and want to recoup some money.
  9. You can purchase or get loaned a radiator bleeder kit from Autozone or O'reillys, Ive used one before with great success but I couldn't pass up my buddy's free offer. Make sure you get coolant everywhere in the system including the heater core if you still have one. Check the lines to see if there still is any stopleak type material, that stuff can and will stick everywhere. Was any of the coolant journals blocked or rusted when you replaced the head gasket? Have you replaced the water pump or taken it off to inspect it?
  10. I was looking at your profile and saw an old post about a leak you had, the image wouldn't load but a member mentioned " Are you sure that's oil? It looks like coolant, mixed with stopleak. That's where the big passage is from block to head. I had a leak there.". Did you ever get this problem fixed? was it oil or coolant? Im just trying to rule any other possible variables out first. My 280z here in Tucson ,where it 110 degree days are normal, never passes 210 even at idle. Stock radiator, stock water pump, stock cooling fan and shroud, I replaced the water pump with an oem part and completely flushed out the cooling system last year. I filled it with coolant and took it to my buddies shop to insure it had no air bubbles in the system.
  11. This is what I have, 17in wheels with 235/45/17 tires. Konig wheels from the Z Store. 4 lug.
  12. Be careful sanding the rotors, it could cut the rotor material unevenly (acting similarly to a warped rotor) vibrating the pad and causing the squealing. On my 78 280z I bought (on rock auto) Premium rotors that they offered and then Beck-Arnley brake pads with the shims on it. Overall around 65 dollars plus shipping, and I applied copper brake grease upon install and 3 months later have had no problems. Hope this helps.
  13. Thank you, I did something similar with good results, no oil smell. Thanks to everyone who helped.
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