Derek

I'm not saying it's making a ton of power. It's just makes a lot more power up high. I want to clarify that because we all know how the internet works. It's definitely a lost faster than what I had. The tune isn't even close yet. I'm still working out a lot of little incidentals before I can really run it. But it's got quite the sound up high I will tell you:) Yes that's correct. Since it's a Vtec killer I only have the big lobes. I knew the power band would be high I just was amazed at how pronounced it was. As I said before the tune down low may be crap and that will affect it. I'm anxious to get everything stabilized so I can start tweaking the cam timing a bit. I pulled the valve cover again to put in V2 of my valve cover breather baffle and everything looked great. The valve train is a little noisy but there doesn't seem to be anything self destructing. Cam lobes look great. No grey oil from the bearing journals. Fingers crossed:) Derek

I thought that head was ruined. I must have misread. Yes that head will flow:)

The block is just a .040 over flat top piston. The combustion chamber is racetrack shaped which leaves 2 quench areas of approximately .6 cubic inches on the intake and exhaust sides. That is if I'm defining quench properly. I'm just the pattern maker:) If you are building a 10,000 RPM L6 then you really need one of my head castings:)

This motor only has 8.5:1. When I build my stroker it will have at least 11.5:1. I can't afford to play in your league:) I'll stick with my (hopefully) 250 -300 HP NA stroker range.

Thanks. Having the delay on the cams paid dividends on detailing time. That something is displacement and RPM if it's NA or else forced induction. Tony worked the numbers and you need like a 3.3 liter that you can sling up to 9000 RPM's to fully realize the heads potential with NA. I'm optimistic that I can make a little power with this setup. The sound is just amazeballs at 6 grand i must admit.

Well I just got back from a drive and right now it's like someone flips a switch at 5000 RPMs which is what Tony has been saying the whole time. The head needs something to make it flow. Having said that my tune down low may not be perfect, the cam timing may not be perfect etc etc. I'm not saying it's a dog down low but up high it's pretty impressive. The potential is there for sure. Baby steps for now:)

Thanks everyone. Stuck doing a bunch of bids right now so I don't have time to do the last couple of things to get it totally road worthy. Here is a couple of shots of the engine bay mostly tidied up. The PCV system is still in Beta so don't judge:) I still have some final tucking of the engine bay wires but it's nearly there.

Just a quick update. I finally have the car on the road. I ended up doing a lot of rewiring and re-routing of things. No videos yet as I'm still in the rudimentary tune stage but so far it's running great. My definition of running great is it hasn't exploded:) Derek

I don't know about revving without a load. I thought about it but if it breaks I'd rather have it go while it's parked in the bay. 4000 RPM is the highest I'm going with it without a load regardless. The auto tune with no load is really crude. But it's closer than me guessing. No fancy tuning setup other than I'm hiring a professional to tune it. At this point I think it will be money well spent. The motor is a .040 over with flat top pistons. I calculated the CR to be in the 8.5:1 range so it's not going to set the world on fire. The first sale is to a friend of mine. He currently has a Rebello stroker kit in a very well prepped block and head. That build will be, replace the pistons with custom 11.5:1 CR and basically a clone of my head but with all new springs, valves, rockers. We are going to dyno before and after and that should give a pretty good comparison.

Now that's what I call commitment:) Update time. It didn't break yet. So my routine is bring it up to temp with varying RPMs, turn on the auto tune function in Tuner Studio and then hold it in a RPM range while it does it's thing. I turn it off and let it cool down then pull the valve cover to look for problems. So far things are surprisingly nice. Looks like I'm getting decent lube. No wear on the lobes. No "grey oil" seeping from the rotating surfaces. I did this three times today. The last time I held it at 4000 RPM for 3 or 4 minutes and it was smooth as silk. I probably have about an hour and a half on it all told. I'm feeling pretty good so far but we all know that can change in the blink of an eye. Work is picking up a bit so it will be a few days before I can make any major moves towards driving it.

Thanks for the kind words everyone. Feeling better about it every time I run it. Ran it up to operating temp twice today without any hiccups. Got the idle area of my fuel dialed in a lot better so I'm no longer dumping copious amounts of gas in there. It reduced the loping quite a bit. Things are starting to settle in nicely. I'm in a industrial complex and naturally most of my neighbors know what I'm up to. I was talking to one of them who has a classic car resto shop. He was commenting on how good it sounded from his place. I mentioned that I hope it wasn't as noisy when I get it on the road and he replied " it will be better when it's not an open header" To which I said it's running through a resonator and a muffler already. Between the exhaust and the induction noise it's really loud at 5000 rpm:) But it's a good loud.

Well if there is a will....And enough money. I'm not going to drive it until I have everything dialed in. I want that first run to be as stress free as it can be. I'm going to take the time to rewire the Megasquirt relay board like I have been meaning to do for the last 4 or 5 years. Moving the intake to the right side made space over there a premium. I also have to work out the throttle cable and vacuum system. At least a week but probably two.

That's the one. Seems like a decent unit.

Thanks for the words of encouragement everyone. Yea it is really growley. I have a pretty good mike. I'll try and get a Wave file recorded. The Iphone doesn't do it justice. I ended up milling the flange. As soon as I saw it would fit with the doors closed it was a no brainer. Took 6 hours or so because it was not a rigid setup at all so I had to nibble. Made for a nice fit. Thanks for the thought. Donate to Hybridz if you like. The transmission will not be long for this world. The 6 speed is a tasty looking conversion. Hoke needs to make it happen or others might:) I don't need a 6 speed but I'm a sucker for the "These go to 11" mentality. Which is why I built a twin cam head. I didn't need one of those either.

Thanks. The valvetrain noise is not as loud as it is in the video. I have about 30 min. of run time on it. Pulled the valve cover a few times checking things with no surprises. The revs in the video are up to around 5000. Now comes the long process of getting everything dialed in. There are a lot of loose ends. I'll probably start sleeping better:)

I'll just leave this here https://youtu.be/70FC_Zh8ufk

Yea me too. Unfortunately it's usually in the same state I left it in when I left the night before:) Making progress. Lot's of little things to take care of. Probably fire it off next week some time.

Actually Bill and rich came down to the shop on Friday to check it out. I'm hoping to get Bill to start up the garage parties again. I knew money would be tight at this point so I wanted to stick with the exhaust I had. And that was 2.5".

2.5" Dry fitted the induction system yesterday. No surprises. And at this point in the project that's a good thing:) Since I have a large audience on this I thought I would pass along a tip I did. I normally glass bead aluminum parts to clean them up. These were really ratty so I knew they would only come out marginally well. But then I tried something extra. I threw them in my vibratory finisher with ceramic media. Almost brought them back to original die cast look. So there is derek's tech tip for the day:)

I'm not familiar with that block. If it's the same as a L series except for bore then yes it will fit. I don't think you could move enough air though. ITB's fit with about 1.5" between the shock tower and the velocity stack. The black box is moving forward and the battery is staying put. Got enough on my plate already:)

Speaking of chains, just realized I never posted these. Cams timed and final lubrication test complete. Everything looked great. Here are the finished hubs. This was taken when I was doing the initial cam timing.

I hope you all are as supportive if it throws a chain in the first five minutes:)

Probably will do a few events. I'll post here. There is a strong group in Tampa. Thanks And yes it is February. But I didn't say what year:)

A couple of beauty shots: And it's in:) Hood clears no problem. The gyrations I have to go through to get the valve cover on qualify as performance art. It just clears the hood latch bracket. I think most of the problem is with the oil supply plate that I added. It won't be on the production heads so I hope it won't be an issue going forward. Yes I know the wiring is a mess. It's on the list:)

The problem is the cams on the K20 are too close together to run a 3/8 pitch or 06B chain in a 2:1 configuration. That's why the KA24 works well. To do a single chain you would need to drop down to 1/4" pitch and probably run duplex. Now we are talking custom gears and custom chain guides as the lead from the cams down to the crank will need to be wrestled into alignment to still use the stock lower timing cover. As always. Is it worth it?