Derek

Here is the link to the Crane custom grind catalog. http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/catalog/cranecamscamlobeprofilecatalog.pdf Page 62 has the K20 profiles. They also have a few that aren't listed. They can work with you to develop anything you want but that's $$. The timing gear is a mix of L6 and KA stuff. L6 tensioner and guides below and KA above.

Got the lower timing chain all set. I had to bore the KA lower gear out to 35mm. I also had to make a couple of spacers so that it was as thick as the L6 lower gear. When I bored it out I lost most of the key way. It also made the hub area a little thin. I decided to make the outer spacer ring dished to slip fit over the hub to add a little strength. Here are the 2 parts assembled. And installed on the crank. I had to leave the gap between the gear and the spacers for chain link clearance. Had to remove a couple links and add a half link. I also had to cut down both guides. The lead angles on the chain look pretty good. Time will tell though. Test fitting before I broached the keyway. Stalagmite of chips:) Starting to get all the odds and ends wrapped up. It's tough not getting too far ahead of myself. I want to stay productive but without cams I'm kind of at the end of the line. Derek

You'll get your chance to participate soon enough. Of course your head will sit in a container un-machined in the desert for years until you get time to build it:)

Being as I was the one signing the check for materials I was happy to use 304:) As XNKE pointed out welds in stainless will corrode unless mechanically or chemically polished up. I used to do a lot of marine work when I was still fabricating. Miss the slightest bit of weld cleanup and you have problems. My favorite line to my customers was "it's stainLESS not stain proof" That stopped most of their carping. Derek

That's great. Can't wait to see them in position. Derek

No Problem! You just had the bad luck to drunk post when not a lot was going on:) And then it just sat there reminding you of all your poor choices you've made in life. I figured someone would respond but I think at the time they were pretty decently powered for what they were up against. Tony and others would know better than I but I'm sure the L6 was chosen for budgetary reasons as much as anything else. Not much happening on the head. I'm dealing with all of the small issues that crop up during a prototype build like this. I'm pretty sure I have reached the point where fabrication on the head is done and I can start assembling. Without cams though I'm going to grind (pun intended) to a halt. I still have one major design issue to work out and that's the adjustable hubs for the cam gears. The KA24 cam gears are tiny so any kind of slotting arrangement is out. On the KA they drill holes in the gear to get their offset but I think that may be restrictive on this build. I did start the design work on KN20 Rev_2 though. I've got the new exhaust port designed and I'm reworking the water jacket. I'm going to stick with the current intake port design. This is the point in a project where my McMaster Carr bill goes through the roof:) Derek

Looking great! I guess at some point soon I'll actually be able to finish this thing up. Thanks again for helping me out with these headers. Derek

That's why there are pictures:)

The technology just isn't there yet. Do a minor amount of google searching and you will see that even the print envelopes are too small. Plus they all need post machining. And it's still crazy expensive.

There are a few things to remember. molten metals shrinks when it cools. Overall shrinkage is controlled with pattern scaling. Solidification shrinkage is controlled with feed risers. The face between the transmission and bell housing is the thickest portion. There are usually multiple feed risers on that face to supply molten metal to that area as it cools. Those risers and surface have to be machined. There are a myriad of reasons what refractory cement wouldn't be practical in this application. Until there is resin 3D printing with the strength of aluminum I'm afraid you're stuck with guy's like me for a while:)

3D sand is still foundry sand so the finish is rough. Even printed metal needs some post print machining. Printed sand is still very expensive, so unless you're only going to use one it doesn't make sense in this application.

Great now he wants me to cast turbo housings:)

Talk about turning the pressure on me up to 11 Just don't tell me you cashed in your kids collage fund to do it and I'll be fine.

I wish he had held serious for just a while longer. The shooting lug nuts tipped it too early for me. But I still laughed my ass off.

Yea I saw it on reddit. I don't normally repost stuff but man it hit home.

Ok I want to share this link. I don't want anyone to comment here because I really want to keep this thread about my head. But this video sums up what doing research on K20's on the internet can be like. It's a honda but not a K20. But the sentiment is the same. I made a post on the general non tech board. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123840-video-sums-up-what-researching-a-honda-k20-head-is-like/ No replies here please:) Edit: fixed link

When I was doing research for my twin cam head I had to dig into the hell that is the Honda forum. This video really sums up what it is like:) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9x74SlY1ik Derek

Well the nice thing about my conversion is it still uses the stock L6 block. So anyone making the investment in producing and adapter won't be tied to only the people that run my head. I will throw this out though. I have made bell housing patterns and I have made one for a similar application. If the lack of a strong enough transmission is holding back head sales I will look at this. I've kicked it around a few times. I'm not a big fan of spacer plates on the flywheel so a custom bell housing appeals to me. But I haven't done any research beyond the absolute basics. I do know one thing though. I'll probably blow my whole drive train on the first dyno run. It's old and tired like me. I'm happy to have this conversation but I think it's probably best to move it elsewhere and link to it from here. As it is a separate thing. Derek

On his web page he lists them but only in groups of 5. Edit: I was on the wrong page. It looks like he is working on one. Hope fully it will come to fruition.

Looks great Xnke!

Yea I wouldn't let a block hold me back on that one either. Unless it damaged everything else as well. With an over bore it's all new pistons. If only one piston is bad then that may change the dynamics as well.

It uses the stock L6 head gasket so whatever you want to source. I'm doing everything I can to make this off the shelf other than the castings, exhaust and cams.

Speak for yourself big boy. I'm 6' and a buck sixty wet:) Jeffer949 will back me up!

For me there are two ways to go. Make a fixture, weld it all together. pull it out of the fixture and watch it spring into an unusable mess. Or Use an assembly fixture, tack everything together, remove from fixture and weld. As you're welding keep checking your fit and adjusting either with force or opposing welds. On prototype pieces I've had better success with number 2.

Yes to all that....and I'll leave it at that:)