Derek

When I get the head back in a few weeks from Mazworx I can get an accurate measurement. If you need it sooner I can calculate it from the digital model. Well Mazworx has that capacity to machine billet blocks so that means they have the capacity to machine a cast block. If you guys buy enough heads I'll think about it:) No real plans for a plastic valve cover. Pics or it never happened....JK.. That's great. I'm excited to see something happening although at this point you are way ahead of me schedule wise:) Started carving the valve cover pattern yesterday. The foundry is totally slammed so no telling when they will get to it.

Will you be testing it on a Jeepny:)

The repairs I did with the body panel adhesive needed ZERO attention. The only problem I had was it shrank a bit over the course of a year. In hind sight I should have made the patches fit better and used less adhesive.

Finally got my car back on the road! Man I missed it.

I think my valve cover height is close enough to the K20 that you could run K20 coils. Have no idea how to trigger them as I run EDIS on my current build and I plan on moving it over to the new head with a new set of wires. I'll measure the heights tomorrow and verify. Ebay is littered with K20 coils.

Hi No real updates. I'm kind of caught up in finishing the paint on my car and getting it back on the road. I got the first cam castings in and I wasn't happy with the part line cleanup. They were over ground in a few places. They are going to run a new set for me. I'll handle the cleanup this time. Probably going to get the head down to Mazworx next week. Post 66 has pricing.

Should be in the 53cc range. Future designs will have smaller "blank" combustion chambers that will be machined to a specific shape. Either stock like this one or a custom shape by the purchaser. I saw where a company welds up and re-machines the chambers to 47cc's. This was for a road race application where stock designed pistons had to be retained.

Who cares what you want I'm going to make the pattern as it is in post #361. But there is nothing stopping anyone from modifying it after the fact in a number of ways. Especially if your plan is to powdercoat. Raw aluminum is trickier because the modified area won't match the surface of the rest of the casting. Cam castings are in transit and I'll have them Tuesday.

Yea after clicking on links that say "free fonts" 30 or 40 times I've come to the conclusion that (paraphrase) "they keep using that word. I do not think it means what they think it means."

Yep that's a die cast all right! If I was doing a restoration I would do a 3D scan and replicate it warts and all. But I want a more refined look than 1970's production. When I'm designing I know when I've hit the point where I'm happy with the look AND the part can actually be produced. Because esthetic design is subjective it can alway's be better. But it may not be able to be produced.

Showoff:) Thanks for posting that picture as it highlights why foundrymen (foundry persons) hate type. Look at the defects around the NISSAN. This is from the sand breaking when they remove the pattern. Or at least that's what it would look like if it was sand cast. I don't know what kind of numbers of S20's were being produced. It's possible that they were permanent mold but it looks like a sand casting to me. Serif type is even worse. If I do "DATSUNWORKS" in a serif the size of the serif is only .035". Also the type style has to be a font that I have. And that means what ever is in windows 7. I'm not going to get into vector drawing those many individual letters. I've done it on restoration projects but not on something like this. Derek

Here it is with the same text but in bold. This is actually closer to the Datsun of that era.

You mean like this lego brick:)

Thanks! As a pattern maker I LOVE plain text Thanks for the offer but I'm trying to emulate the Nissan text from that era. And that was quite plain and blocky. I'm open to improvements on plain and blocky but it's going to be plain and blocky no matter what:) Derek

This will have to hold you for a bit:) Final design on the valve cover. I rendered it a gunmetal grey which is the color I'm going to get it powder coated. Here it is on the head. This is a rendering from the casting so there is a ton of machine allowance on the outside rim where it meets the head. It will be a better fit after machining. Camshaft castings are on the way to me and I should have them on Tuesday. Waiting on the foundry to pour the first manifold. Other than that things are in a bit of a holding pattern. Derek

There is like 40 pages of people who have made the mod on that link I posted. There are videos and dyno reports so it's more than a "few" users. Now if you meant to say "one of the few users that added boost" then that's a different animal. The overall feel I got from the thread was that most were happy with the mod. Not looking to pick a fight just looking to create a balanced picture.

Here is a link (I may have posted it before) about putting stock A2 cams in an A3 head and using the exhaust rockers on the intake. He killed the iVtec rockers but kept the variable cam timing. http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66643 It's a pretty good thread with dyno results posted. Based on everything I calculated, my head in it's stock form will flow more along the lines of a ported A2. That remains to be seen obviously. I'm revisiting iVtec because I've had a few inquiries about it in PMs. But I'm only revisiting it to the point of making sure there is cast aluminum everywhere it needs to be in order for SOMEONE ELSE to implement. There is a whole ton of things that have to happen for iVtec to work. Cams and custom timing chain hub come to mind as well as a ton of extra machine work. Possibly custom cam towers or at the very least highly modified towers. Hopefully someone with really deep pockets will make this happen. If I had to guess I could easily see another $4000.00 or more for taking it to that level. But if someone was thinking about plunking down 40 grand for an OSG head, 15 or 20 grand for a 6 cylinder full iVtec head looks pretty appealing.

They call him "Stubby" Very happy with the fit. Made a mandrel to form the ovals. Should make for a nice looking header. Remember kids good fabrication is all about joinery. The better the fit the smaller the weld. The smaller the weld the less the warp. The flange and header will be mill finish. Going out today to Xnke for fabrication.

Finishing up a pattern today and I'll be able to work on the stubs tomorrow. Should be able to ship the flange, adapter and stubs tomorrow.

Not much to report. Waiting on the cam core castings. I got in a hurry when I was reaming the intake valve guide bores so the stock sized guides are too small. Fortunately SI Valves sells universal pre bored valve guides. They are manganese bronze. I have to machine the exterior to the correct size. After that the head is ready to go to Mazworks for the head work. I'm hoping to have it ready to go next week. When I have the head back I can determine if the cam bores are still aligned. At that point if they are good the cams will ground. The intake manifold printed cores are done and on their way to the foundry. I'm about a third of the way done with the manifold pattern. Should have it done next week as well. I was sick for a week so that kind of screwed up production.

NA.

As long as you didn't do it taking a dump you're probably still ok.

It's my understanding that it will be an equal length header. I don't know what denotes a "long tube" from a "short tube". I do know that the large radius bends right off of the head will not be needed as the OSG head (and motor) as well as the S20 is tilted the opposite direction as ours. I don't believe that changing the tilt will be necessary on mine. This means shorter radius bends can be used and still achieve a decent length. Derek

Well if December of 2007 is a few years ago then yes it "was" a few years ago:) You're getting old. That's the first sign. The big problem with it was I laid the base coat down too heavy and then cleared it too soon. It trapped solvents and the clear started coming off after about 4 years. I had to strip all the old clear and base off with a da. And of course there was new rust to be fixed.... I use products from Southern Polyeurathanes http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com. Their products are really great (as long as you follow the directions) and the price is amazing. The red is their house brand red base. I had a little problem laying down the clear and the owner spent 20 min on the phone with me getting it dialed in. Try that with PPG Hard lines are more work but you can't beat the look IMHO.

You and me both! There is still a butt ton of stuff to do though. Yes. One of the Hybridz family is helping me out with exhaust design and fabrication. I'm sure he'll chime in at some point. Got the intake manifold designed. I'm utilizing a balance tube like I did on my EFI manifold. It made my life a lot easier. By doing three separate manifolds it reduces my risk of failure. I'm 3D printing the cores and I ordered them today. The pattern will be conventional. I designed the flanges to be a lot larger than I need but I want to have options when I do the machining. I'm using the same injector boss mount as my manifold. This way I can hard line it if I want to. And I want to:) I got a call from the steel foundry and they are pouring the cams next week. Hopefully the first units will pass inspection. If they are good then I'll do some basic machining and then I'll ship them out to Isky for grinding. And I'm painting my car Base coat. Cleared it today. No time to do a proper job but it's been off the road for almost two years and I had enough. I wanted to drive it again. It'll look ok. Basically painting in my fab shop so you can only imagine how clean that is:)