Derek

Don't forget "look cool, Look really cool, actually runs" That was my design criteria on my manifold! The one thing I would change at this point on my project was to run some CFD software on it. I wasn't looking for performance but it would have been nice to have the opportunity to tweak the design a bit. Derek

You really should check out paragon drive backup.

I use paragon drive backup and periodically roll my windows machines back to a known uncluttered state. Makes a huge difference in performance. My macbook pro not so much of a problem but I still use time machine as a backup in case of a drive failure. Most computers built in the last few years will do fine except for the clutter that windoz seems to accumulate. People think their computer is bad and all it needs is a clean restore. Of course thats fine with microsoft as they move more units! Derek

I second that! Derek

PM sent

Yes I am and I have them in stock. Shoot me a PM if your interested. Derek

I second Tuner studio. Much better program and well worth the money. Derek

I used magnacore for my setup. Their noise suppression is really good and you can get them custom made for no extra charge. The turn around time is fast. Derek PS your stuff went out yesterday.

This is becoming commonplace on Ebay. You don't pay ebay charges on shipping.

I cast the block when I was doing the manifolds. Not familiar with the idle block from DIY but what your trying to accomplish is to bleed air from the filtered atmospheric air into the vacuum portion of the block. Derek

For a site that encourages encourages searching (I,m in agreement) hybridz search engine blows. I've searched for stuff I know I saw the day before even using title key words and got no results. The old site had a Google search box incorporated and it seemed to work a lot better. Derek

Turbo encabulator that's a proper fit for the Z.

well it's cleaner than grease!

If you use the chassis punch (which would be my recommendation) put the cup on the convex side and the punch on the convex side. Much more civilized than drilling! Derek

Unfortunatly it won't work. See how the damper hub has 2 ears protruding into the hub. This would keep my hub adapter from even going in. Then there's the problem of the depth not being the same. Plus if you look at the distance between the boss where the washer sits and the tabs there isn't any room for an adapter either. You can have your 2 row rebuilt for around $100.00 or buy a new one for $200.00. Derek

Cool oven! It looks like you used the controls and elements from a regular oven. What's the box made from? I need to re-bush my suspention parts and thought I would blast and powder coat them while I was at it. I'm looking at the Eastwood dual voltage gun. Derek

Saw this oven on my vacuum form forum oven Looks to be a pretty nice setup. Derek Oh crap I just necroposted!!! I thought that last post was Feb 2011 not 2010. Still a cool oven though!

Vintage air Derek

I hear ya. It's all in the setup. I love the ones where you get 90 percent there with the setup and then realize "that'll never work". The main reason I'm thinking step key is the strength of the key way is somewhat determined by the fit. When I try to make the connect cut if I'm off a hair it may be problematic. Then again I can make the cut and if it's not right I can open it up and do the step. Derek

My newly acquired diesel crank has a little key way damage from an exploding damper. Since I have machines I have options. At the very least I have to touch up the groove with the tig welder and then mill the groove with a key cutter. I figure since I'm going to the trouble of setting it up in the mill I might as well convert it to a single key. Now the options kick in! 1) Weld damaged slot Pick up the existing slot in the mill and connect the grooves for a single key. 2) Don't weld the slot and oversize the entire key way and the install a step key. I may have to make the key but that's not a problem. Realistically I could mill the slot then fixture the new key with super glue and then mill it in place. This is the way I would like to go unless someone in the know has a better idea or sees a problem with this approach. Thanks Derek

According to Pete in this thread specs Which is what mine measured. Derek

Run away from that car. The only way you won't be revisiting the rust is if you strip the car and have it blasted. I have a rust car and the only reason I stuck with it is I already owned it. Derek

I've bought 2 "good" Dampers from hybrid members. One never showed up and the other one was broken so bad that there was no way it could be used. Make sure your definition of "good" is the same as theirs! So no I don't have a source. Realistically if you buy a used one and pay to have it rebuilt your almost at the price of a new OEM unit. Derek

Sorry you had trouble with the fit. Did you have to grind the back corner of the bracket like I suggested? It may have just been the angle of the dangle when you were installing because I did a test fit on a motor I have here and it bolted up with no problems after I ground the corner. I wonder if there are different timing covers out there? Derek

I slept in the luggage area of my Z at Road Atlanta for 3 nights in the early 80's and took it camping plenty of times. Cooler in the center running longways tent and sleeping bags jammed on the sides and my Alice pack on top of the cooler. Fun times Derek