Derek
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Posts posted by Derek
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Funny you should ask. When I'm building stuff I'm always thinking can I sell a few. I went to MSA yesterday to look at radiator stuff and what did I see...
BAM http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7054
So for 250.00 with the fans I don't think I could sell them any cheaper.
Had I known they existed I probably would have bought one!
Derek
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I was really hoping that a Taurus fan would work on my L6 but the general consensus was that it would require a bunch of cutting to fit. I scrapped that idea and decided to make a shroud to hold 2 of the el cheapo 12" fans on ebay. Zmanco and a few others on the board have been running them with out any problems. There really isn't a ton of room to work with. I have a motorsports 3 core radiator. The shroud is about 1/2" thick
I routed out .063" sheet pre drilling for the fans and mounting tabs. I had to do the tabs seperatly because the "Z" dimension was too small for my brake.
It's times like these that I wish I had a water jet machine!
After brake work
I was going to TIG up the corners but I got a really good seam so I went with it.
Cutting the side brackets in the mill
I switched the connectors over to weatherpacks.
Everything fits great. This is the last of the electrical stuff I'm adding so I can finally redo the wiring.
I have them controled with megasquirt. It's 90 degrees out right now and the car sat and idled at 180. That's cooler than it would have with the stock fan. The fans are surprisingly quiet.
Thanks for looking
Derek
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readability of the screen is a real issue in daylight, when i was last playing around with the one in my car i just lived with it, as the screen was only $300ish - meanwhile some of the guys at mp3car.com at the time were spending $800+ getting a special coating put on their screens which helped out a bit, or doing custom led backlight setups
the other issue with a carpc is that you are still using an operating system, and generally windows - and its hard to control alt delete on a touch screen!
i'm kinda hoping that apple release an awesome tablet giant ipod touch so i can just rip out my current setup and use it!
When I upgraded my carputer to the Atom 330 I was toying with the idea of running the mac OS. Unfortunately lack of a decent navigation software kept me with windoz. Now if the tablet runs the iphone software Tom Tom becomes an option.
I have trouble incorporating a 7" screen in my car so 10" seems like impossible to me.
Derek
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Another vote for rage extreme. Lays out well, high degree of self leveling, sands easily.
Derek
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I wanted one of those Kameari units from the first time I saw one. Then I saw the price........
$8.50 per valve was what I was quoted as well. For that kind of money I don't see any reason not to use them.
Derek
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I'm going with Stainless N42 valves http://www.sivalves.com/ocforeign_valvessp_nis.html
and a Isky regrind on a nissan cam.
Derek
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As long as you're not yeilding the 6061, 7075 isn't really necessary. They both have the same modulus of elasticity, so they should compress the same amount.
He used the biggest words so he wins!!!!!
Plus it was what I wanted to hear.
6061 it is.
I hate to be cheap but every dime has to count in this economy. The head and cam towers are a casting alloy and I doubt that the heads been heat treated. The cam towers probably are though. so the shims will probably be stronger then the base.
Derek
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Aluminum is fine but I would use 7075 or 2024 instead of 6061.
I was just getting ready to reply that Mcmaster only has .080 in 6061 (which I already bought) and decided to check again. They have 2024 in .080. It's 33.00 for a 12" x 12" sheet.
Are you sure that 6061 won't work:o
Derek
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valve stems need to be longer to acconodate different cam height and still use a decent thickness valve lash pad...
Hi Tony
I was wondering if I was missing something in my analysis of using aluminum as shim material as opposed to steel.
Believe me there's a lot I'm missing on the entire project!
Derek
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I'm going to be doing the shave .080" P90 trick and I need to shim up the cam towers.
My plan is to machine out the spacers from some 6061 T6 .080" sheet I have. I measured the sheet with my Starrett high precision mike and there is virtually no difference in thickness. I'm also thinking the thermal coefficients will be more equal as they're similar metals just a different alloy as opposed to aluminum head, steel shim, aluminum cam tower.
Am I missing something?
Thanks
Derek
Oh and does anyone have a DWG or DXF of the cam tower shims? (Dreaming)
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5 Left!
Come and get'em, Dereks got a motor build to fund!
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Well put me in the "I don't think it will fit my car" group. I did some measuring and I just don't see how it will fit no matter how much trimming is done. I decided to buy a couple of 12" fans and make a custom shroud.
I know that will fit!
Derek
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Looks like the only way to know for sure is to buy one and start hacking! I'll document the process as I go.
Does anyone have the dimension from the back of the motor to the front of the blades? My thoughts are if you hack all the shroud off in the process of making it fit you still have a nice 2 speed fan for a decent price.
Derek
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I have the Lincoln Mark VIII fan in my Z with the LSx swap. I have about 2" between the fan's widest point (motor) and the water pump pulley. If you guys want some pics, just let me know and I'll snap some.
Thanks for the offer but I think there's more room on a V8 swap.
Now if you want too drop your L6 back in and shoot some pics that would be great!
Derek
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Thanks Adam
I'm just going to have to get one and see what it's going to take. How much room is there between the fan blades and the radiator?
Derek
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A quick MS question that I can't find an answer to.
I have 440cc supra injectors, how can I tell which is the negative or pos wire? Or does it not matter?
Thanks!
On my Bosch injectors it doesn't matter.
Derek
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Derek: I am about 99.99% positive my brother wants one of these yesterday. If you could take this post as a reservation, pending confirmation later today, that would be awesome I would bet he wants the whole kit and kaboodle, but not as certain on that.
I'm already holding one for him. Got to take care of the Florida crew!
Derek
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I am interested in this as well. I did some searching and a few people said that the shroud had to be trimmed excessively to get it to fit, but others have said that it fits great.
Yea it seems there was a lot of ambiguity and zero pictures of an installed fan. Tony D was in the "installs with minor trimming" camp. That's why I'm still pursuing it. I like the fact that it's an OEM fan that will run reliably and that it's a 2 speed.
Derek
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I'm not running one yet, but I've had one laying around that was going to go in a rock crawling Xj. Couldn't get it fit in the xj. I put it up against the Z rad last night and it looks VERY promising. The shroud almost covers the entire rad. I don't know about the water pump clearance yet at the engine bay is stripped.
Planning to have MS control the fan or a thermal switch?
Later,
Adam
Hi Adam
I'm going to have megasquirt run it.
Hurry up and get it installed:)
Derek
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It's all skinable in RR - give him time.
Derek, you ever come up to south GA? I'd love to come down this actober, but I live off of exit one in saint marys, and don't trust the Z right now for 4+ hours of driving in a day.
Gainseville is about as far north as I've been making it lately!
Derek
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And if so can you post some pics?
Thanks
Derek
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How is this necroposting? It's a tech question and it's still valid; assuming no more recent post discussed this McMaster part. Now if it was a "for sale" thread or info about an event that passed, that would be another matter.
I didn't say it was I only said it shouldn't be!
It seemed like there was a string of posts getting tossed to the shed.
Derek
I would bet he wants the whole kit and kaboodle, but not as certain on that.
filler before or after rustseal/por-15?
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Here's the order it should go if your going to do it with the por. Apply the por15 to the rust area. When the por is still tacky but not cured spray a coat of epoxy primer over the area. You know the por is ready if you touch it with your finger tip and no por transfers to your finger but still feels tacky. If you paint it too soon the por is still out gassing and it will bubble the primer. After the epoxy primer dries but withing it's cure period (or you have to scuff up the primer) use a resin based filler like duraglass to do the major filling. Sand the duraglass but don't go through the epoxy. If you do recoat. Now use bondo to feather out the repair. Now you can go to your high fill primer.
The epoxy primer is waterproof and that's the barrier between moisture and the metal.
At least that's how I did it!
Derek