Geking

1+ I wish the T5 I bought was only 300! I would go with a world class if pushing 360 HP. The normal ones are for 305s pushing only like 220 ft/lbs. (Non world classes still very hard to get for 300...)

You do not need to drop the tranny. If memory serves, it should be on the driver rear of the trans. One bolt will remove a fork thing that looks like a air-die grinder wrench, the speedo cog will slide out, and pop a new one in, transferring the o ring and holder. Yes240zboy is right, you do need to drain the oil out first otherwise you will have a dino swimming pool.

I burned out two alts trying to get the idiot light to work. Not worth it! (yes I used the resistor)

I had the same consideration on 305 or 350. I am so very glad I went for a 350 after comparing my 280z with a friend's late 80s 305 Camaro. Granted the f body is heavier, but still, the 305 is not a sound investment for the effort to swap from the L28 IMHO. To give you an idea, I could easily beat my friends camaro at a light to light game with a stock 280z running a tired motor. The reason the 305 is not liked is because the narrow bore shrouds the valves, making it more difficult for the engine to aspirate. From Wiki: Year hp (kW) lb•ft (N•m) 1976 140 250 w/2bbl. 1977 145 245 w/2bbl. 1978 140 240 w/2bbl. 1978 160 235 w/4bbl. 1979 130 245 w/2bbl. 1979-Ca 125 235 w/2bbl. 1980 155 240 w/4bbl. 1981 150 240 w/4bbl Also, if I am not mistaken, the stock heads on a 305 can not use TPI, but instead uses an intake for chevy's 'crossfire' Essentially two huge injectors at the air filter. Just my vote of not worth it.

Cable is made for GM, GM trans, so you should use a GM gear. Very good resources posted guys, thanks! Bookmarking this for reference!

The dash is a pain because: 9 out of 10 wires in the car go through the dash, it is a big piece that must be properly aligned, and the heater lines, pedal box steering and all that jazz is mixed in with it. I would much rather pull a engine than a dash. I would mark it up as the 2nd most annoying piece of the car to work on, with the spindle pins in the rear suspension being the worst.

If you get a few books and take your time you should be OK if you have some common sense. I would reccomend the Factory Service Manual and How to Restore your Datsun Z Car http://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022 Installing the dash is the hardest part in my optinion

http://www.ztherapy.com/ They sell a video that has everything you need

I have one out of a 78. How much?

That is what the shaft shop did for me. (Originally said that they would use the GM shaft, I picked up the Datsun...) So i have been pushing 260 HP though a datsun shaft with a chevy slip yoke on it with no problems so far.

I am using a iron head LT1. plenty of power for an S30, runs on 87, and I am not using an optispark, I am using Megasquirt with Ford's EDIS so I am running with coil packs. you can buy the electronics set up and that LT1 you found for less then some SBCs and way less then an LSx. I would not say an LT1 is a SBC as the heads, block, ign, etc are different. (can you use a sbc cam in an LT?)

I made mine as cheaply as possible. I already had a 2.5" performance system from the L28. I tack welded 2.5 from the headers to a y, then it goes through a glasspack I scavenged from a evo exhaust. From there it goes back around the suspension and out the back using the L series system. Counting the rods it cost me under $40. It is a bit loud but I can still get my wife to ride along.

The LT1 is almost a chevy small block, and it has tuned port injection. Also cheap. I think you just need to sit down and ask yourself what car is best for you. Seeing as I have never owned a Buick and I do not know what you deam as good milage etc this is something only realy you can figure out. Sorry.

the tackle box is full of GM style waterresistant eletrical connectors. Modern, nice work, when can we see pics of that exaust installed?