Pop N Wood

For stroker kits you might do a search on Rebello or the Maxima Diesel crank. People usually use one of those for a stroker 280. Try MSA (http://www.zcarparts.com) for cam kits. There is probably quite a bit of info in the archives about cam specs, suppliers, and what cams might work best with a turbo. Try a search.

My point is why would you want to keep it all Nissan? How does that improve anything? Most go fast parts are aftermarket. Even Z's with the stock engines are usually heavily modified with non OEM parts. Why would you have a preference for a specific engine simply because the manufacturer once offered it in another vehicle? If it were a bolt in deal, then that is one thing. But you guys are going around and around about how much work and money this swap would be. I suppose a Renault engine swap would also be more cool than an American V8. After all, they own Nissan. Oui Oui. Maybe you could find an old DeLorean in a JY somewhere. Besides, you violated the cardinal rule of HybridZ. This site use to have a nice mission statement telling everyone how the founding fathers started this site when they got tired of anti-V8 talk on zcar.com. I guess most of you haven't seen that, but if you look in any of the forums there is a rule about such "purist" statements. You also might want to look at the thread about the moderators having a short fuse. People need to read the rules or face being banned.

Not if she gets you first

Most of the floor paints I have seen require you to clean the floor with a murcuric (sp?) acid solution. I think if you do this even a floor enamal will hold up well. As always, the key is proper surface preparation.

And you had better hope you didn't score the spindle. I would replace the spindle if there is any discoloration. If the metal looks blue it overheated and is of questionable safety. Make sure you replace the bearing races in the hub.

Could be worse. You could be married. With a shopping list like that.....

On a Saturday morning car show they were replacing the floorpans on a Shelby GT500. They first straightened the car on a frame machine, then welded the car to a massive steel table (on supports). That way none of the geometry would change as they cut off pieces and welded in new. Obviously not an option for most of us guys. But I have often wondered how guys with home made rotisseries make sure the geometry is spot on. I would be temped to weld temporary braces throughout the car prior to any of the work, then just plan on towing the car to a frame shop for an alignment prior to painting.

But if you replaced the ECU with an aftermarket variant, then the engine wouldn't be all Nissan anymore! Just yanking your chain. Guess I have never understood the fascination some people have with that statement.

Man, we picked up a ringer when zcarnut joined the board. Good info. When I upgraded my 70 Z to a larger MC, I also had to reverse the hard lines at the MC. The front brakes must go to the tap with the larger reservoir. I think the early cars were switched front to back relative to the later ones.

Yes, we are. In fact, get a good one from a real auto parts store (not a trak auto el cheapo). The condensor is very important. Getting a bad or marginally bad "new" part will drive you crazy.

There are actually a lot of options for Z brakes. A lot of it comes down to cost. The Arizona Z car brakes are probably one of the best, but also one of the most expensive. They also don't have parking brakes which may or may not be an issue. And the guy who runs that place has a reputation in the Z community that is not so good. Ross is definitely a first class guy. I have his 240 SX rear brakes. The brake set shown above looks excellent. There are also a number of junk yard, do it your self options. The 2 most important things to get are a good set of pads and vented front rotors. Try a search in this forum and see what others have to say.

Most people think the big bumpers are ugly, not to mention heavy. If it was a big bumpered 260, then it is basically indistinquishable from a 280 (IMO). In that case I would just fix up whichever one was less work. Look through some other current posts. Quite a few guys are trying to back fit their 280's with the early bumpers. With the 260 you are one step ahead. But like I said, unless you have the space and an understanding wife, pick one or the other and get on with it.

Is it an early 260 with the 240 style bumpers or a later one with 280 style? If it is the early, small bumper 260 why not drop the L28 into the 260? Big bumper model than pick and match parts in whatever way gives you the cheapest final product. A somewhat "restored" 260 (but with decent carbs) could easily fetch 4 grand or even more. But then again a good paint job costs about the same. Don't bite off more than you can chew. Get one car that runs and unload the rest.

My bad. Was thinking of GM distributors. The Z dist has the ignition condensor on the outside of the distributor. You do need a new condensor to make the car run. The old GM distributors had the ignition condensor inside the distributor and a noise suppression cap on the outside. The ignition condensor is what drains the coil current to ground when the points open, thus allowing the plugs to fire. Replacing it with a wire has effectively bypassed the points.

Then you had better hope all the big boys forget to show up. I think you need to readjust your goals. Certainly you aren't talking about beating nitro methane funny cars and such? 5 second quarter miles? Spend a month reading through some old posts. It will give you a good idea of what is possible with a ZX. Start with the Chevy V8 forum since that is the most popular. Also remember the old hot rodder adage: Speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go?

There was a recent thread on E31 heads, like in the last couple of weeks. The E31 use to be the hi-po head, but apparantly it has smaller valves and/or a more restricted intake to match the smaller L24 bore. According to some the (I believe) E88 head is now the head of choice. BTW, I wish people wouldn't get so uptight about telling people to do a search. It is not like anyone's income is dependent upon answering every post. If you don't feel like answering a repeat question, then hit your back button and go on. Besides, the search engine took a definite turn for the worse with the software switch.

One other tidbit I picked up somewhere on this site http://www.metalshapers.org/ is that aluminum oxidizes so fast, that you have to get the primer on within 20 minutes of cleaning the metal.

New oil before anything else. Flushing the antifreeze wouldn't hurt either.

The condenser on the side of the dist is to reduce ignition noise in your radio. If you did what I think you are saying and replaced the condenser with a wire, then you have shorted your ignition out to ground. No way will your car start like this. Take off the wire. You really don't need the condenser on the side of the dist.

Spiirit You haven't read too many of my posts! I have closed more threads on torque and HP than anyone on this site. You just hit on a reoccuring theme that I have trouble letting go of. No offense was intended.

Ahh, don't need to rely on head shots. A 30-06 will easily punch through a vest. A 338 if they have the riot vests.

How can chassis #548 be Jan of 70 and chassis #648 be a 69? Pretty sure the VIN numbers were chronological. If you look at the auto auctions, lower numbered cars usually sell for more regardless of make/model. And the more original the better. I think once you hammer in a piece of sheet metal as a floor pan then the number becomes more of an interesting curiosity. Especially if the original engine and trans are gone. In some of those auctions the car takes a price hit if you don't have the original owner's manual or correct factory paint markings on the production components. Fiberglass body panels take them completely out of the game. As for restoration, the price of classic Z's still aren't up in the 10's of thousands, so it would be hard to justify the cost of a restoration on a car this far gone. A car is only worth what someone will pay for it so in that sense I have been wrong before. But, as we have all seen, the average selling price of a V8 Z is usually WAY less than the cost of the conversion. No "purist" is going to touch a car with this many mods and few hybriders care enough about getting an early model to pay much of a premium for one. They just want to go fast. So it is hard for me to determine where this one fits in. Just one man's opinion...

I thought the cable went over the top of the diff and under the cross member. I guess between the diff and mount would be better, if there is room. Even JTR says it is a "ghetto" fix, but what the hell. It is cheap and it seems to work.

Wasn't directing my comments at you. You are just thinking the problem though and I was trying to help. What I was refering to were postings like this http://www.69mustang.com/hp_torque.htm