Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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optimas are gel cell, but if they over charge they do emit hydrogen gas, which is why they are still required to be placed in a box if they are in the passenger compartment for sanctioned racing
I didn't know that. Good info.
Back to the original post, a battery is still needed once the alternator is turning to smooth out voltage spikes as things turn on and off. Even a small battery will work in that regard.
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Just stick with the near stock parts like John said. Coil overs and camber plates really aren't needed for your stated usage.
Camber plates will also make the car ride rougher. They replace the big rubber isolator at the top of the strut housing with a solid metal one.
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If you are looking under 1500 try http://technotoytuning.com/ they have a killer set up, great for any daily/weekend warrior driver.
Note: Some assembly (cutting and welding) required.
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This page has a bunch of info on Z car vin numbers
Youi also might try getting the attention of a member with a screen name of HS30-H. He seems to be a pretty knowledgable historian on early Z's.
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Mine is rougher! Does yours smell like Cat Urine? If it does, let me know what to do to get that smell out...
Not sure if you are serious or not but go to Petsmart and get a product called Simple Solution.
Febreeze is also very good at getting rid of odors.
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I think the optimas are also gas free and contain no acid.
There are people who run race batteries in their street cars. I forget the name but I think Summit sells them. They are half the size of the optimas and oddyses.
But they also have half the capacity of the optimas and oddyses.
If you live in a good weather state, keep you engine in good tune and don't mind replacing the battery every few years, then the race batteries might work for you.
If you are like me and want the battery to last for 5+ years and always have enough juice to start you in any kind of weather, then get a full sized battery. That extra capacity means they can degrade longer before they have to be replaced.
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I never really understood a Harley. I mean why would you want to spend a truck load of money to build something that will not touch a factory Jap bike?
It's called soul
I have never understood why anyone would want anything but a Harley.
Just my 1 cent
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I think Arizonia Z car sells whole assemblies.
Makes the beta motorsport stuff look absolutely cheap though.
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I took mine out of my 240 and just vented the tank to air. I needed the room for larger than stock fuel lines.
But you still need a tank vent.
A lot of guys leave it in and plumb it to a charcoal cannister. It doesn't hurt performance and does keep fumes from the atmosphere.
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There have been a dozen or more threads about home made surge tanks in the last year.
Most have detailed pics and real world testimonials.
Try a search
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This is a pretty good read
http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp
There guidelines for fuel line sizes seem to be on the high side. Most guys seem to get by with less.
A lot of guys seem to run fine with a single line and a dead head regulator. But I think everyone also agrees that a return style regulator is a superior set up. It can also be a good bit more expensive for a quality regulator and a second return line. The cost of fittings can really add up quick.
A lot of it depends on your HP goal. You may want to upgrade to all 3/8 inch line. This will give you good growth potential.
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I'm telling you you are going to regret those casters.
There are times where I wish mine was anchored to the floor.
Get some furniture dollies when you want to move it. Or just get a couple of guys and carry it.
The handful of times you actually move it will be overwhelmed by the countless swear words you say when the thing starts walking across the shop with each hammer blow or each pull on the piece of steel you are trying to bend in the vice.
Not to mention if you bump into it and spill your beer.
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So you cheated?
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Down pours I can sit out and wait
But I have lived in So Cal. It rains enough to be a problem, and who wants to get trapped somewhere when it does? Not to mention how do you go up to Big Bear?
They do have sprinklers in so cal, and every buisness seems to have some guy hosing down the driveway.
I would rather be safe then defending my decision in a lawsuit.
But good thread, good info.
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I made mine out of pipe I got in a scrap metal yard. I think it was used sprinkler pipe. Can't beat 25 cent a pound, and they had a pile of it 20 feet tall. Plus gives you some practice welding pipe, although using a tubing notcher would be an unnecessary complication.
I would forget about the castors. Make a separate work table for that. If you make it strong enough it will be too heavy for the wheels, and definitely won't work out in the yard. My vice must weight 65 pounds, which I commonly use with a 2 1/2 pound hammer. Wheels would make everything too unstable. Good luck trying to elevate a 7 by 2 1/2 table by yourself. Make the legs solid and non-adjustable.
You want a couple of wide and deep drawers on the sides using full extension ball bearing glides. And make pull handles out of rebar you bend, polish with wire wheel and polyurethane. Gives is a useful industrial look.
I made a cut out in the side of mine to roll my mig welder under it. In the front of the welder I made some wooden shelves just deep enough to hold peanut butter jars full of bolts and such. Made a canvas hatch to cover the mig welder cut out, cause my shop doubles as a wood shop. Keeps dust off the welder.
Run a power strip or set of GFI outlets so you can plug in just underneath the bench top. Saves power cords draping across the workbench when the plugs are against the back stop.
I have a big magnifing glass with internal light that I mount in a hole I drilled in the table. I did it cause I am old and blind.
Make sure you leave a lip on the table top to allow clamping stuff down. If it is a metal top you can even drill and tap some hold down holes.
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What about those toyo's in the rain?
That is the one thing about the G force sports Aux mentions. They are a soft compound tire, maybe not R1 level, but they have a fairly decent rain rating.
My worry with all out stick tires on the street is coming around a corner and finding the street wet from an errant sprinkler. I would gladly give up a little dry stick for peace of mind.
Any opinions?
Here is an intersting read. they rate the toyo's as the best overall tire.
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Yeah! Tube front end!
And some Arizona Z car rear suspension stuff!!
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Or do like Ferrari does and wherever possible replace the fasteners with glue ...
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And you used the wrong alloy of filler rod...
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Maybe just an alternator cut out switch.
Not as 100% as removing the belt, but you can at least ensure a full charge in case you get stuck at the line.
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The JTR manual has pictures. They also say it should be stick welded, not MIG welded, using a specific alloy of welding rod.
I have seen posts were people jam a bolt in between the spider gears and weld that to everything.
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I thought the point of rivets was to allow some flex between the two pieces.
Doesn't seem like what you should be after.
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You're not trying very hard.
Here first click on this link and read item #2
http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=93&a=2
Next GO TO THE TWO SECTIONS I POINTED YOU TO, CLICK ON THE LINKS THAT SAY ELECTRICAL DIAGRAMS IN THE TITLE and they will give you what you are looking for.
OBX diff problem...need input quick.
in Drivetrain
Posted
Nah, man. Good info. That article you linked on your web page finally made ATB diffs clear to me.
Sell what you want where you want
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/projectcars/0205scc_project_ford_focus_zx3_part_4/
So you guys actually have good luck with the OBX diffs? They don't blow up or wear out and start acting differently in s short period of time?