Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Battery powered tools are power tools?
Well at least it sounds like you have found your solution. The saw wasn't going to work anyway.
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Rent an apartment in an older building with an enclosed garage.
Never had any problems with the landlords when I rented in the South Bay. But then I never left a mess and always paid my rent on time. Oil absorber is your friend.
Another option is to rent an empty garage behind somebody's house. Did that in both San Diego and Bremerton Washington when in the Navy. Neither place had electricity. I used hand tools and a Coleman gas latern for light. At least these days you can buy some battery operated tools.
Security can be issue, so be prepared to take all your tools home with you.
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Battery powered reciprocating saw and extra batteries and blades.
Even then my money will be on teh Q45 axle to win. That has to be some tough stuff.
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Saw this in the local paper and thought I would pass it on.
Apparently most people who burn french fry oil do it illegally for multitude of reasons.
The article says it is technically illegal to modify a car to run on any fuel other than what it was designed for. And because vegetable oil has not been approved as a fuel by the EPA, grease cars are in violation of the clean air act.
They said this doesn't apply to bio-diesel, which is an EPA regulated blend of vegetable oil and diesel.
They said modified cars are subject to a $2750 fine.
They went on to say that people who modify their cars to run on vegetable oil are suppose to pay a 24.25 cent per gallon Maryland fuel tax, must be licensed as a special fuel user and need to submit a monthly report on fuel use.
Another case of technology progressing faster than overly restrictive laws.
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The only real tight spot is near the differential, really. Everyplace else you can fit just about anything else you want.
Until you have to creep over a speed bump in a parking lot and realize it is the point midway between the wheels that drags.
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I think Garrett had the definitive thread on popping expansion plugs.
IIRC silicon on the plugs was a bad idea.
There were lots of very good ideas.
Try looking up that thread
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After I posted the link I started looking around. A miniDV tape holds something like 11 gig of data. So the Sony in video mode has to be considerably lower quality. It's not bad though. Good enough for school recitals and the like. Sony does make an HD camcorder that only records on memory sticks. But at $100+ for the 8 gig sticks you are not going to be buying those in packs of 5. In a year or two I imagine they will be $40 or so.
USB hard drives are pretty cheap. I wouldn't let disk space be a factor in your decision. If it is then you may need to question your desire for HD.
I am not up on the HD camcorder state of the art. Maybe someone who knows more will pitch in.
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Just get a digital camera with a 2 or 4 gig memory card. I highly recommend this one
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8266574&type=product&id=1170290214776
The Sony I got my wife for Christmas holds something like 2 hours of video on the 2 gig memory card. We don't even use our Canon DV camcorder anymore.
You can then pick up a USB hard drive to store all the video. $100 will get you 500 gig of storage space. It is a hell of a lot faster pulling data off a memory card than a tape. Tapes read back in real time. Plus the tapes are still something like $5 each.
I would not recommend getting one that records to DVD. Those things break and don't seem to hold much. Plus the price of the media.
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Car wax.
I once had someone glue my door locks. I think it was the girl in the apartment across the way who caught me watching her shower.
Luckily I was in the phase where I waxed the car every week or two. Just washed the car with some liquid dish soap, cause everyone knows dish soap disolves wax, and the glue came off with the wax.
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Everyone is going 6 speed auto these days. The Saturn Aura has a six speed auto. Also Mazda SUV's. Minivans are still 5 speed autos but I suppose they will be 6 speeds soon.
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They didn't use to be. When I bought mine the full kit was about $600. That was only $50 more than a carb shop wanted to rebuild the SU's with new throttle shaft bushings.
You ought to be able to find a complete used set without much trouble. I have a set I would gladly box up and ship for $400. Not sure if I still have the manual but the linkage is all in place.
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That weber set doesn't appear to have all the pieces. That is the sort of thing that will drive you crazy trying to piece down.
The trouble with used SU's is the throttle shaft bushing are usually worn out. That is a fairly pricey thing to fix right. So unless they have been rebuilt by Z Therapy, then buyer beware.
There are a lot of opinions on both carb set ups. I started out with SU's, but switched to webers cause I could buy a complete set up for the cost of getting the SU's rebuilt. The dual weber set up was also smog legal in California where I lived at the time.
The webers are nice carbs and have a lot of tuning options. They also have accelerator pumps so the car is easier to start in cold weather. But IMO they suffer from that J bend in the intake manifold. Other than getting rid of the vacuum leaks, I didn't see a noticable improvement in performance over the worn SU's. But then again my engine had minimal upgrades over stock.
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If cars like that sell for 45K then our days as budget hobbiest are over.
I hope the days of $500 rust free Z's last forever.
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http://www.whitepages.com/reverse_phone
Don't know why there are so many rip off sites that try to charge for this service.
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Silver is a much better conductor than copper.
Now if they were solid silver instead of just oxygen free copper....
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Do they have an American super sized version of that?
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I wish to humbly correct the revered veteran of this board, Mr. Wood, but the '94-'95 LT1s were OBDI, while the '96-'97 were OBDII. There were other changes but while all '94 up PCMs are flash upgradeable, the diy opportunities are greater for the OBDI models.
Cheers -- Gary
Not to hijack the thread, but I just found an interesting article on the difference among PCMs here: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0704gm_factory_pcms/index.html
I think we are saying the same thing. The 94-95 vehicles are not subject to OBDII rules. That is why they are easier to smog. But they do have the flash programmable computers that the OBDII cars did. This is a good thing cause they can be programed with software.
Right?
OBDII did have some good points, and flash programable software was one of them. The other advantage is a common code reader.
I think the only person I might be revered by is Mike Kelly. Everyone else just lets me have it.
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You will need the linkage between the two carbs that was made for the webers. Once you get that going you can hook to the stock stuff at the firewall. The stock stuff that connects to the SU carbs will not work with the webers.
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Won't the original stock bolts work with the new yoke?
I bought one but haven't tried to bolt it up yet. Was planning on reusing the original bolts.
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I seriously considered the LT1 for awhile. Maybe you have already read all this, but the 94-95 motors had the OBDII type computer which can be reprogrammed with a lap top. The earlier motors had a chip type computer. Apparently it is not an easy task to switch the 93 motors to the later computer.
The other issue is how strictly will the referee interpret the OBDII requirements? The 95’s are not required to meet the OBDII requirements whereas the 96 and later are. I have read posts on this site where people failed to get their CARB certificate because the OBDII vehicles actually used signals from the ABS sensors to modify the fuel delivery. Thus to be 100% compliant people were forced to try and swap in brake sensors. Maybe the guys just got a hard ass inspector but it did happen.
You have a 77 so cats are a given. That was a deal killer with my 240. O2 sims are not OBDII compliant.
Another option on the speedo is an aftermarket T56 or even TKO. Both tranny’s come with electronic and mechanical speedo outputs. New transmissions are expensive, but it seems like T56 rebuilds, especially on the early units, are pretty much the rule and rather than the exception. The price of a new unit doesn’t look so bad when you consider $1500 is typical for a T56 rebuild.
I can’t imagine what it would take to fit a late model truck 6.0 motor in and still be smog. First off I don’t think it is legal to swap between cars and trucks (at least in my state), but more importantly the truck intakes have no chance of clearing a Z hood. If you swap out the intakes you are no longer smog legal.
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So if im reading youre other thread corectly the laser on the trans output shaft will be at the same level as the one pointing from the rear diff two " side by side lines " is what i would be looking for or would one beam be pointing directly at the other beam .
I read the thread 3 times just want to be sure about what i was reading .
JAson
Don't cross the beams.
They should stay the same distance apart up-down and left-right.
At the trans yoke measure the up-down distance then the side to side distance.
Do the same at the diff flange.
When the measurements are the same, they are perfectly in line.
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So is the slop in the joint from a worn out cross piece or worn out bearings?
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Good work. Thanks for posting back with a follow up.
Always good to see the solution.
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Someone once posted a set of rings are over $500 for those motors.
The swap has been discussed frequently in the past.
I Need To Cut an Axle in half, what will do?
in Drivetrain
Posted
I once wanted a pulley off of an alternator, so I took a hammer and smashed the case of the alternator until it jammed. Bolt came right off after that.