Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Molasses.
Was a thread here on it but our POS search engine isn't finding it.
Do a google search on molasses + rust and you get things like
http://inetogether.net/jaguar/060703.php
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NP. This will work with anything on your (whole) screen. Hit Ctrl and Prt Scrn at the same time. This puts the image in your clipboard (same as clicking copy on text or pictures). Then open up a program (which can edit pictures) and paste it into it. I use powerpoint or OpenOffice's Impress. With Powerpoint I think you click File, save as, then in the save as box it says extension which you change to JPG. In Impress you simply right click the image and hit save as picture. Open Office is a free (yes free) alternative to Microsoft Office. You can keep all of your files the same format as Microsoft Office if you'd like. Plus the controls are very similar also. If that doesn't work tell me and I'll make sure about the Powerpoint. If you drag the picture out a little bit on powerpoint it will save the image bigger than the ones I posted which are marginal.
You could also do this in Paint for that matter. Just make sure you change the extension to jpg when you save it otherwise it will save the image as a bitmap and it will be a few mb's as opposed to 100kb or so.
There is a program called SnagIt that will let you do screen captures of just a particular window.
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The cool thing is it wasn't even his car.
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Dynamat is suppose to be the bomb. It adhears to the metal damping the motion which helps keep it from vibrating and transmitting sound.
When I put my carpet in, I just got some rubber carpet pad from a dumpster behind a carpet store. Don't get much cheaper or readily available than that. I then glued some velcro to the carpet to hold it in place. Worked OK.
I have also read of other people who got rolls of quilted aluminum insulation from a home store and used that. They come in 16 and 24 inch widths.
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I was thinking a fuel line might be sucking shut (they get softer if they are hot) or that something was floating around inside the tank. But sounds like you have covered those.
I don't understand what are you doing with 2 pumps. Are they running in series (the outlet of one feeding the other)? And you said you have replaced both pumps with different pumps with the same results? Niether pump has an internal pressure regulator that could be failing?
What ever it is, my guess is it will turn out to be something very simple and very stupid once you find it.
If you want to see if the regulator is sticking open, try splicing a see through fuel filter in the return line. Hopefully you will be able to see if there is flow through the line when the pressure drops. Another option would be to place pressure guages at the outputs of each pump. Might help you narrow down where the pressure loss occurs. Good thing is the problem is so repeatable.
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Did you put the sender in upside down?
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Thanks. Now I need to figure out what I did with it.
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I wonder if the spring and plastic are part of the fill spout door/hatch?
The inside of your tank doesn't look that bad to me. I would be tempted to just rinse it out and run it.
Be very careful with any type of home tank sealer. There have been multiple members who have had that stuff come undone and really start causing fuel starvation issues. Another member pointed out some of the sealers are not compatible with modern gasolines. If it were my car it would be professionally done or not at all.
Also keep the larger line for your fuel supply. The intake side of the pump is much more sensitive to restrictions than the output.
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To my _very_ inexperienced eye, it looks like that manifold is designed for peak hp / high rpm, as the runners are very short . . . which limit the low end torque, right?
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0703phr_four_barrel_inline_carb/photo_14.html
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0703phr_four_barrel_inline_carb/photo_13.html
Correction please? Am I looking at it correctly?
I was wondering about the manifold too. There are some benefits to having the large open plenum of a 4 barrel. That system looks way cool, but it will be almost like having individual carbs. Can't believe the linkage is progressive.
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Can anyone tell me real quick if there is a gasket on the fuel sender assembly for a 240 tank? Is it a rubber piece or could I make one out of a piece of plain gasket material?
I took mine off a week or two ago and can't for the life of me remember if I pulled a gasket off with it. I tried making one out of gasket material, but when I did a leak test on the tank I get bubbles all around the sender.
Thanks
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I wouldn't hesitate to buy that setup if I were in the market. Main thing for most people here is that they want an R200 and there are other less expensive ways to get CVs on an R200. But for R180 or R160 guys this is a great bolt on solution, and it's particularly useful for the 510 crowd who get really really extreme halfshaft angles with lowered cars. The 2-3% power increase was proven on a dyno on an extremely low 510 according to Todd from WCR. Not sure that a Z would show the same improvement because our halfshafts aren't so twisted as to bind up like a 510 can.
So what is the better/cheaper way for R200 owners?
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If a different fan draws less current, then it won't move as much air either.
There was an old thread where MikeJTR said the fans out of a Lincoln fit the JTR radiators better and move the same amount of air while only drawing 18 amps. Might give a search for that one.
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Something might be loose or worn out allowing the suspension-tranny-diff to move. Are you sure it is not a tire vibration or something like that?
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Don't use a hand grenade to kill flys. While it can't hurt to clean out the tank, just try replacing your filter and see if that clears things up. Run a tank or two of gasahol through there also. The alcohol makes a pretty good solvent. You may have to replace the filter 2 or 3 times before all the crud is cycled through.
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On the upside your post looks like a good start to a country song.
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Maybe you need to take it to a garage.
You don't want me telling you where the dipstick is.
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Broken front diff mount. Very common.
Could also be bad bushings and or loose diff bolts.
But chances are it is the diff mount.
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That could be anything. A loose or dirty connector, wire shorting to ground, dirty fuel filter, failing fuel pump, low on gas.
Not a fun problem to diagnois.
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People run cats on their V8 swaps. Just a matter of finding room underneath the car.
240's were carburated so there is some additional work upgrading the tank with a sump for the fuel injection. 280's already have an in tank sump. 240's also have the smaller R180 rear end, so one more expense that may or may not be avoided with the 280.
For the LS swap figure $10K minimum. The used engines are getting rather expensive and all the swap stuff really adds up in a hurry.
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Yeah that is the top end bar at $30 more than the price in JustinOlson's link.
Looks like a good design. I will have to copy that with my LS2 swap. Except the LS motor sits low enough none of the bars need to be curved.
The firewall gets pretty thin up at the top like that. But I can see where just having that solid U shap will help with the twisting. Still, I think a brace behind the top of the firewall would be benificial.
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I got the May 2007 issue of Hot Rod. They have a section on motor swaps and detail the LS motors. They mention Moroso and Mildon both offer LS pans now. Summit carries them, although the one Moroso pan is $650 and the other, while about $200, requires a remote oil filter.
According to them, the LS2 pan MikeJTR talks about is the new pan of choice. It is about an inch shallower than the F body pan, but has much better oil baffles. According to this article it gives the car a 5.5 quart oil capacity, down from 6.5 quart with the old gull wing pan.
C6 LS2 oil pan (has shallow rear sump) (kit with bolts/gasket) = 12581810
C6 LS2 oil pick-up screen (same used on LS6) = 12558750
C6 LS2 oil deflector (same as used on LS6/LS1) = 12558189
C6 LS2 dipstick = 12570788
C6 LS2 dipstick tube = 12570787
GM parts direct wants $230 for just the pan, but add on $51 shipping and handling.
Bastards.
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You don't want to put a 4.25" stroke 434 smallblock torque monster in your 1800lb road race/autocross car just the same as you don't want to put a high winding 283 behind a glide in your 3200lb camaro drag car.
So I guess you saying if you could have an original Shelby Cobra you would rather have the 289 than the 427?
You don't want the 283 in the drag car because chances are it doesn't produce enough power. But why wouldn't the road race car want more power?
Throttle response I can understand, but why not more power?
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On another note, is there any evidence that different sized u-joints cause vibration? This would surprise me if so. My thoughts are that size makes no differnece as angles will not change regardless of the size of the joint.
Just to clarify this was a guess on my part. I have often wanted to work out the math to define exactly how the speed changes through the U joint. I just seems to me that larger diameter joints will exhibit more of a speed variation for a give angle than a smaller one. But like I said I don't know this for sure.
Upon further review, the size of the U joint has no effect on the change in angular velocity. Forget what I said about getting more vibration from mismatch U joint sizes.
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The metal top and bottom pieces interlock inside the poly
http://energysuspension.com/pages/univ3.html
If you go to Pete Paraska's web site, the original I guess user of this diff mount, he mentions he used a stock GM unit that quickly destroyed itself. But he has been using the energy suspension piece ever since.
Stiches
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Wrap some duct tape around it.
Bunch of old women on this site.