Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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A daily driver 80's car for $500 or less in the Missouri area.
I think you are looking at a Chevette or Dodge Omni. Something along those lines. Japanese cars from that time frame were not too popular in the midwest. I think the ones you do find that aren't completely rusted will cost more that $500.
Just pick up an auto trader and see what I mean.
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Is this the one you need for the wiper motor?? http://www.zzxdatsun.com/
On the left click catalog and on the right click rubber. C-05 Wiper motor harness grommet.
LARRY
Huh. Cool. Thanks. That place is about 20 minutes from me. May have to stop by and check them out.
Only thing left is how to get the new grommet over the existing wiper plug.
Also the wiring harness grommet.
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That does look good. You will have to tell us how it sounds and how loud.
Might be interested in doing something similar
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Anyone know where I can get some grommets for the firewall penetrations? Need the wiring harness, speedo cable and the big fat one for the wiper motor. This is a 70 240. Couldn't find them in Black Dragon's catalog.
Thanks
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The one I got in email had pictures.
Very nice pictures.
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Pull the valve covers and watch the sequencing of the intake valves as you turn the engine by hand. That should tell you your firing order.
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Yeah, you can. Feed is 5/16 and return is 1/4.
I accidentially drilled a hole in one when installing something inside the car. The rubber coupler lasted 18 years without leaking.
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Best bet might be renting it with your parents credit card with you listed as a second driver. Make sure the rental car place knows you will be the one driving it and has your name on the contract. Only listed drivers can drive the rental car.
Some things in life aren't fair for 19 year olds.
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Pop, do you mean the bracket that is just to the left of the mount surface (where the bushing goes) that is held in place by what looks like a hefty muffler clamp? If so, it is not unique to the 240 because my 280 has it. It is a bolt on braket which has a rubber snubber on the other side that isn't showing in that picture, and is a stop to keep the rack from rotating in it's original soft mounts I believe. It doesn't come on replacement racks and must be swapped over from the old rack most the time, so I wouldn't be surprised to find a lot got left off. But they are on 280z originally.
Yeah, that is the one. The reason I thought it is unique to the 240 rack is because that is what the pictures in the Black Dragon parts catalog show. The 240 rack has that clamp and the 260-280 rack has no such part on their illustration.
FWIW
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You know man I tried to step away cause it was obvious you aren't being very receptive to anything other than blind adoration.
Are you sure you really want to keep going back and forth on this? I tried to stay focused on the topic on hand. Any reason you want to turn this personal and risk getting the thread banned?
Why don't you post some current pictures of the whole set up so we can have at it?
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I believe that U shaped clamp shown in Savage42's first rack pick is unique to the 240 rack.
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I second the firing order. I have seen it happen. Engine seems to run fine but just dog slow.
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I would look into buying a rebuilt head. Maybe one with some performance work already done to it. That way you can easily swap it out and have your car back on the road in at worst a weekend.
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You've got it!! good luck!
Oh no. It's not mine. Just thought others might enjoy the pics.
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Looking good. The first days are the fun ones cause you can see the huge progress. It is the end details that seem to take forever with little visible progress.
I made the mistake of actually building a to do list.
Man, what a mistake. 3 pages is rather daunting. Plus it seems like everything I do adds one or two more items to the list. Like "replace steering rack boots". Great. Done. But after wiping out the old grease I realize I can't find my grease gun and that the grease vent destroyed itself. So cross off one thing and add two more.
Some day.... Hopefully soon.
BTW, an air chisel makes the trans ears a 2 minute job. Or better yet, in my case they didn't need to go.
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MSNBC has a pic spread of reader's rides. You can vote for the Z on the third page. It got the editors pick
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Yeah baby. Radiator hose clamps holding the fuel filter on an exposed area of the undercarriage. No rock will knock that loose. That is the kind of attention to detail that wins car shows, let alone races. Not to mention all that rusty, dirty sheet metal.
Like I said, functional. Guess that big ass turbo and sewer pipe exhaust is pretty blinding.
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the confusion here may be that many guys look at the OUTSIDE DIA. and a 3/8"OUTSIDE DIA. has closer to a 5/16" INSIDE DIA and thats certainly not going to supply 500 hp
Upon further review, I have 3/8 OD tubing with a 5/16 ID.
The Mallory pump also has a 14 PSI dead head pressure. I ended up getting the larger capacity 140 GPH pump since it had a better package price with the return style regulator.
So when brian510 says 3/8 hard line, that is almost certainly OD. 525 RWHP sure beats 500 crank HP. Plus the Z car should have a shorter run of fuel line than most cars.
Ehhh.
By the way, isn't all tubing specified as OD?
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How in the hell is that funny? Treating someone that way?
He should have married her because it sounds like the two of them were made for each other.
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The series one bolts are 1.25" apart C/L to C/L while the Ron Tyler mount has them spaced at 2.5". The rear bolts are in the same location so adding another hole on center of the bracket allows one bracket for all s30's.Merely slotting the original holes didnt work.Pics will be up in the morning.
Is it 1 1/4 or 1 3/8? I seem to remember drilling mine at 1 3/8 inch.
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Well that is all the answer I need.
For what it is worth, the numbers in that century performance article are the exact same values Mallory and MrGasket list in a tech article on there site
http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/TS_FuelSys.pdf
One thing else I have also noticed. The Russell AN6 braided hose has a significantly smaller inside diameter then the el cheapo rubber fuel line.
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I am about to plumb my fuel lines and paranoia is starting to take over. I need help deciding what size line to use, cause the time is now to make a decision.
What I have is a carb'd LS2 crate rated at 446 HP, but should easly get over 500 HP once I cam it. I have a Mallory Comp 140 fuel pump and return style regulator. I also have everything I need to plumb 3/8 inch fuel line.
But I keep reading things that says the 3/8 line is good for either 375 HP to 500 HP. also read post of people who claim to get some ungodly HP out of smaller line.
What do you guys think. Does the very real possiblity of 500+ HP warrant selling all the 3/8 line and AN6 fittings for 1/2 - AN8 stuff?
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Everything I read says the filter is suppose to be on the inlet side of the pump. Mallory says you must use a minimum of 40 micron filter before their pumps, althought they do say it is to prevent crud from jamming the georotor they use. Even Grumpyvette says inlet. I often thought the outlet would be better because you would suffer less headloss on the positive pressure side than the suction side. But all the manufactures have them on the inlet.
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Well I guess we have different ideas of what constitutes attention to detail.
My LT1 conversion update
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
That spacer looks solidly mounted to the engine, as are the headers. It would be nice to see a little more clearance there but since they are locked together I wouldn't worry about it.