Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Thanks for your input. I did some more investigating on the Fram i posted above and the Summit site lists it for carburated vehicles so i am now thinking of not using it.
By behind the fuel tank, I meant in front of. I have it bolted on the diff cross member.
That is pretty much where I bolted my fuel pump. Got the bottom nice and low, but above the control arm inner pivot. I wanted to put in that big canister type filter, but keeping that low also would have required running some type of mount down from the back deck. Decided to go in line just to make some progress.
BTW, I don't know that there is any real difference between a FI and carb'd filter. Especially on the inlet side of the pump. Maybe someone will correct me if I am wrong.
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I am not sure what the difference between a pre pump and post pump filter would be. I thought they were all suppose to be prepump.
All you really want in the prepump filter is a high flow capacity. That means a paper or metal screen type (and not the sintered bronze or what ever it is).
I just went through this on my 240 last night. I had bought a large canister type filter but similar to the pic below but couldn't figure out a clean way to mount it. (By the way, how did you get a fuel pump BEHIND a 240 tank?)
I ended up just getting an in line unit at WalMart. It is a fram, I think FG3 with 3/8" barb inlet and outlet. Less than $4. The Fram unit for the LS Camaro's looked like it would work also. Only $10.
Your other option is to just thumb through one the many fuel filters on Summit's site and
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294925239+115+4294839051&NeXID=5
I don't think the filter on the pump inlet side will do anything to help with fuel starvation. If you uncover the in tank inlet you are still going to suck a slug of air into the filter. The only way to get the air out of filter is to run it through the pump.
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Also make sure the cross piece behind the diff that connects the two control arms is curved and not straight.
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He is not going to hit 1200 HP if that is AN6 size fuel line.
I don't like all that stuff hanging out underneath either.
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Um, hate to burst anyones bubbles but the dual downdraft webers are not so sought after. Infact the round top SU's will out perform them. The side draft triples weber are a different story.
You're not telling us anything we didn't already know.
Just kind of a pisser.
Maybe sell them to some subaru or old volkswagen beetle guy. They would rock on a flat engine.
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Probably worn valves.
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Did the guy in the apartment have his sword in his hand too?
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Pop N Wood,
So you let it go for $250? Not too bad at all. I would really like to ket that amount.
Danno74Z
No I still have in sitting in my driveway. The weber kits run $1200. Seems like I should be able to do better. But eventually I will have to do something.
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There was a local newstory where some family was pissed that their roadside memorial kept disappearing. They staked out the site and caught some old guy who spent his time cleaning up these shrines. I can't remember the details, but they somehow got the guy arrested. The paper said the only legal way to handle it is to report it to the county and let the road crews do it. so be careful if you take it upon yourself to clean up these shrines.
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I think the key to making the easy outs work, besides the left hand drill bits, is drilling a hole that is almost the full size of the busted bolt. That means you have to dead nuts center the pilot hole.
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I have a complete 70 240 with downdraft webers, E31 head, euro distributor, centerforce clutch and attached 5 speed that someone offered me $250 for.
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but i cant seem to remove the strut catridge, is there a special wrench or somthing?
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http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/broken-bolts.shtml
I have never had luck removing broken bolts with an extractor until I read the article above.
Another option is to pull the Flywheel and take it into a machine shop
Another option is to weld a nut onto the top of the broken stud. Careful you dont' overheat the aluminum flywheel.
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Its bad enough, that the small block has a 57/43 weight distrubtion.
Not sure where you got these numbers. Most SBC installs end up with a slight rear weight bias.
If you guys go to ebay right now there is all of 1 caddy 500 motor/transmission for sale and another bare block.
Still say what good is it if you can't find one.
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I bought a knock off set from Black Dragon Auto. Have yet to put them on but they they are nice and thick. couldn't see paying the price for Nissan parts.
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Offer to buy your buddy replacement turbos. your out the same money either way, but get to avoid refabricating the exhaust.
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With 8-9K you might be able to buy a completed V8 conversion.
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There was an excellent thread on this a while back. One problem with aluminum is it will crack if subjected to regular movement. Thus make sure everything is well mounted. It seems to be the hard line of choice on this site. The majority of people here say that is what they used.
I bought the 90-10 cupirous nickle stuff. I will be running the lines this week end. It is suppose to be easy to work with like aluminum, but without any of the problems. Very expensive. I am also redoing my brake lines so just decided to get matching stuff for the fuel.
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do you run the return all the way back to the tank? And if so is there a factory hard line underneath?
The factory return runs all the way back to the tank. There are two penetrations in the tank, the 5/16 supply and 1/4 return. Each has it's own hard line with a short section of rubber hose connecting the tank to the hard lines. Both tank penetrations are right next to each other.
There is also a third 1/4 inch line that is a tank vent. On my California edition 70 model it goes from a vapor recovery tank in the right rear C pillar up to the crankcase/intake manifold. Are you sure this isn't the line that was pinched off? I completely removed that line from my car.
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if you recore it to a 3 row core it definitely is. A number of guys run the stock radiator that way.
If it is a single row core, well then it really isn't big enough for the L6.
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yeah, they had a return. A 5/16 supply and the next size smaller return.
I will be running 3/8 supply and return with my V8 set up.
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Maybe they could try canards?
Wouldn't restict visibility that way.
Might take pedestrians out at the ankles though.
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That is almost certainly jacking damage. You should have seen what I did to my 240. The rails on a 280 look like building girders compared to the 240 rails.
I drove for years with a good 2-3 inch deflection in my floors. I finally just this year hammered them back with a 3 lbs sledge and a piece of 2x4.
I honestly would not worry about what you are seeing. I also would not hesitate to weld on the floors. I don't think the Z car floors are tempered so you won't be weakening them as long as your welds are good.
I have Been Around Some Sick Cars..But lastnight I was TRULY Humbled! Pics!
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I am struggling a bit with this right now. I am about to run 3/8 line (AN6), but everything I read says that size line is only good for between 375 and 500 HP. Depending on who you want to believe even with two lines he might be short on fuel capacity.
Guess I am just not seeing the "attention to detail" you talk about. Everything looks functional, although the exhaust seems cartoonishly large, but seems like too many things just tacked on underneath.
However I have never built a car like that so what do I know?