Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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I thought MSA (http://www.zcarparts.com) was carrying those. I remember reading ads saying Nissan had made a bunch of those up when they did the factory resto of old Z's
If they don't have them, try http://www.zparts.com, http://www.zbarn.com Black Dragon Auto or http://www.baddogparts.com
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If you call your local Kinkos they will give you an email address. Then all you have to do is email them the link and tell them to pint out an 18 color copy.
They can probably even laminate it for you.
Only thing left after that is to pick it up and pay them for it.
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You could never adequately secure it. Plus I would be worried about how close to the glass the baby's head would be.
The big worry would be the potential ticket you could get should you get pulled over. The safety nazi's go relly overboard when it comes to baby seats.
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Googled B&M, got to their web site. Looks alot like a B&M 4503 shifter
http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id=products&sid=4&cat=3&subcat=15&pid=334
Summit carries them.
The internet rules.
Looks like you could fabricate your own shift lever
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How well do Supra's do in this type of racing?
Why do you feel the Supra suspension is superior to what can be done with a Z suspension?
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Are you going to charge something less than the $500 flipping dollars or whatever it is those other fitted brake line places charge for complete Z pre bent brake line sets?
Also you will need to provide new rubber isolators everywhere. The ones on my old Z crumbled.
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I don't know about pure copper tubing, but the 90-10 cuprious nickle line is suppose to be the ideal brake line material. I think it is what the OEM stuff is.
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I googled Caddy 500 and saw a good write up on Wikipedia.
Unless I don't know how to read, they haven't made those engines since the Bee Gees were the hottest thing in music.
Might be an interesting one off engine, but just how many of those motors do you guys come across anymore?
Staying alive. Staying alive.
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The Shifter : When you say it does not work what do you mean ? The box is the later model T56 with the plastic section below the gear stick. Are you saying it will not fit through the hole in the floor and I will need an adapter of somekind ?
I went to m1noel's car domain site and saw this pic
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Technically you are suppose to claim any and all income you make selling stuff on ebay. Even the occasional used pair of boots should be claimed.
But, if you claim it as income, then you are also allowed to deduct the cost of depreciation. That is why the IRS doesn't care about not reporting casual sales. If you clean out the garage and sell a bunch of used items, by IRS standards you will be losing money cause you selling everything for less than you paid for it. But if you buy a wrecked car and sell the parts for more than you paid, including selling expenses, then you have just made taxable income that you are required to report.
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Why not just drive a Supra?
What advantage is there to grafting a Z shell onto a Supra?
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The Q45 mount is a completely different animal from the RT mount. The problem isn't going to be finding someone to build them. The problem is what design should be built.
A member named Qwick240Z had posted his Q45 front mount and offered to have several made up, but got totally flamed for his efforts. I don't think there is one definitive design for the Q45 mount. Seems like everyone has their own way of doing it.
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This thread has the GM part numbers for the F body sump and pick up stuff
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118395&highlight=pan
This stuff is pretty hard to find in junk yards. Ebay, LS1TECH.com or GM direct are your best bets for sourcing the correct parts.
Boy, it would be nice if this thread could contain a complete list of to do items for the GTO swap. Even better if it contained definitive part numbers.
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Yeah, they have a good bit of my money. Top notch place. I will probably be placing another order with them next week.
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Looks good.
If you guys read back through olds posts most guys say the part does fit exactly. Some guys have rolled these things out 10 at a time, and others built them from the blueprints without a single trial fit. They all fit so this should work fine. A weld up kit really makes no sense, because if a person can weld they can easily make there own from scratch.
The only caveat is this design won't fit on the early early Z's with the pushed forward diffs. Would be a simple matter of some grinding and redrilling the body bolt holes to make this one work.
How thick is that steel?
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8.5:1 Compression?
Sounds like a forced induction candidate. Put a blower on that beast.
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Just strip a factory EFI unit off a truck.
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That guy at JCI has had a reputation for being a prick for along time. But I don't know about the overpriced part. There is something huge to be said for getting the job done and not having to re-engineer engine location when doing your swap. You are not paying for the stuff by the pound. You are paying for all the time it will save you in getting the job done right the first time.
There are some excellent pics in this thread.
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Man. You have to hate it when someone shows you a better way after you already have parts in hand.
Looks like Summit sells an aluminum version for only $3 a piece.
Couldn't find a tube to hose barb adaptor on Jegs or Summit. Doesn't mean they don't exist.
One tip on the stainless hard line. I read one article that said to use a hack saw to cut stainless hard line rather than a tubing cutter. Said the tubing cutter will work harden the stainless making it impossible to flare.
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There is some gorgeous work in there.
but I don't know about that dry sump for a car. I can see they could not afford the sump clearance, but there are two problems that I see. First, the oil pan is considered a structural member on an LS motor, so may need some type of girdle to pick up strength that may be lost from that carbon fibre pan.
Second, unless you want to run a prop it looks like you will need to use a different pump than they do. this is their oil pump
and pan
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I bought a new house that the deal with the original owner fell through on so the builder was looking to move it. I had the option of paying $8k under list, or paying list and having them kick in $8k toward closing. When I went to settle somehow $3k of that $8k got eaten up by various builder fees and of course the good faith estimate of closing cost was in the builder's faith and not mine, so ended up with a mortgage a few grand more than list.
But whether you pay more or less than the asking price is highly dependent upon the current housing market. Really you can't compare a deal 15 years ago with one today. It also is highly dependent upon what area of the country you are in.
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I can respect what you are saying. Kudos for getting your priorities straight. But are you sure you can't find a place to put it in storage for the next several years? Maybe a house with a 2 car garage?
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Wait until you get it in the car and see which has more clearance.
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I did what Jon said and reused the lines I already had.
280Z Fuel Guage in a 240Z
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Good question. I have the exact same guage that I have yet to replace in my 240.
For some reason I thought the fuel guages were compatible, but now that i think about it I am not sure how I know that.
If someone doesn't know off the top of their head, then I am pretty sure the factory manuals give the resistance range of the guages for each year.