Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Thier modifications to the 240 were mostly for gov standards not for deficencies in thier own design.
I absolutely disagree with that statement. Look at the differences in the steering rack mounts on the early to late Z cars. I have read posts warning mounts. This wasn't 5 mph bumper related. This was a deficiency of the early design.
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Guess this is suppose to be commercial that debuts at the Super Bowl.
Federline has had to issue a public appology in case any fast food workers feel insulted by the commercial.
Funny world.
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You might be able to weld a new stud on the old mount. But you will undoubtably burn and further weaken the rubber on the other side. Another possiblity is to rethread the stud using the next smaller sized die.
Those parts are throw away items. Maybe time to invest in a new one. Or ask around and see if someone made an extra Ron Tyler style mount they will sell you. Should just bolt in and will be the last diff mount you will ever have to buy.
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Pretty bike.
I would sure hate to lay that thing down with all those dagger shaped foot pegs.
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18 guage is hard enough to work with. 16 guage would be a nightmare.
Rather than thicker metal you are much better off rolling some beads into thinner metal. If you are using flat sheet metal for the floor then you can't be too worried about stiffness. Anybody can make something stronger. The trick is to make is stronger without adding excess weight.
From what everyone has said, Pete's connectors with stock floor pans are very stiff. Maybe more than is really needed.
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If you can pull the pan then you should be able to measure the stroke.
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The number of 240's made is very small compared to the number of 280's. The ones that are left are getting harder and harder to find for sale. It won't be too much longer before this is no longer a question anyone needs to ask.
There have been a number of times I wished I had started my hybrid conversion with a 280 rather than my 70 240. It is supprising how much beefier the 280's are than the 240's. After having worked on my 240 for almost 20 years now, I was suprised the first time I pulled parts off a 280. The most obvious thing is the rails underneath the floor pans. The 240's had to run the brake and fuel lines through the tunnel cause the 240 rails would have given them absolutely zero protection.
The rest of the differences are hard to notice unless you are familiar with both models. Some of the key differences I have noticed are the stronger steering rack mounts, thicker strut tubes, stronger stub axles, significantly stronger diff cross member, a revised front diff top strap, relocated diff geometry, thicker steel in the rear control arms, much stronger door latches, stronger trans mount ears. Then there is god only knows how much more sheet metal bracing throughout the later cars.
You have to figure Datsun changed all of these things to address some perceived deficency in the original 240. Most of them appear safety related.
Then there are other little things that make a V8 swap different between the two models. Most noticeable is the FI tank vs. carb'd 240 tank. I have recently found out the shifter opening on the early 240's is farther back than all later models. 240's have ampmeters, everything else has voltmeters. The 240 tach is not compatible with modern ignitions.
Little things, but stuff that has to be addressed.
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I'm thinking the OP is talking about a Lotus Elise, minus about $10,000. Personally, I'd maim a mommy to own one, but it's a bit out of my "toy" budget. I read somewhere, years ago, that sports car markets consisted of California and the Northeast, places with lots of disposable income and windy roads. What's the attraction of a car that turns good when there are no turns?
There are a lot of windy roads in Chicago.
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No offense as your mount is probably effective to mount the engine but I dont believe does a lot for stiffening the chassis and appears to be heavier.
There is nothing to be offended about. I chose to copy Mark Ickards mounts because it looked like they would give me the most flexibility in mounting the motor. They were never indended as anything structural. As for weight, I keep wondering if I made it heavy enough.
Will be interesting to see what your header and starter clearances turn out to be. I think the passenger's side exhaust flange will end up pointing right at that cross piece. I know my starter is sitting not a half inch from the TC cup.
If you mount your motor higher and a little farther forward then mine you might be able to run the exhaust next to the rail and under that cross piece. Hard to tell without looking at it in real life though. Mine is so far back I am moving the heater hose penetrations.
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Sorry. Serious thread hyjack here.
I had to fab my own mounts for all the reasons I stated above.
JCI's kit definitely would not have worked with my trans choice. It may work with the carb intake. There was one other guy, screen name Lason I believe, who was doing an LS1 swap with JCI's mounts and a carb intake. He was also doing a back half. Not sure where he ended up.
There are a few gotcha's on the LS motors. In particular the water temp sensor. All SBC's since the begining of time have used either a 1/2 NPT or 3/8 inch threaded sensor. The LS motors use a metric fitting that is smaller than the 3/8 NPT. The aftermarket has yet to catch up to this. I had to drill out the block heater plug and tap the Datsun sender into that. If I had gone aftermarket guages then maybe there is something that works with the LS heads. Fan controller is in the same catagory. Had to use a radiator probe.
I would say the other complication on LS swaps is the shortage of donor vehicles. V8 F bodies were never that popular in the first place and they sure aren't getting anymore common. The GTO-LS2 stuff comes with it's own set of headaches. Truck motors need new intakes and accessories.
10 MPG on the carb, I hope not. There was a recent thread someone posted on the AZC carb set up vs. his Megasquirt L6. Mileage was the same for both.
On the LS motors, from what I have seen, the carb shouldn't be too far behind the FI. I don't know how to tune a carb either. At least not a hipo carb. But only one way to learn. They still publish books on this sort of thing. I will install some type of O2 sensor to help.
Nah, tuning the carb is something I look forward to. That will mean I have the car running and on the road. I have two sets of old rear tires to help with the procedure
Get to do the fuel system this week end.
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Why is carbed harder? I understand why using a different transmission changes things, but the carb should just mean that you have to figure out a cable setup to the pedal and an aftermarket box for the ignition, right?
The intake sits taller, so you need to get the motor lower. That means the alternator hits the steering knuckle, so need to figure something else out. But that was OK cause the motor had Corvette accessories and couldn't really use a stock F body alternator mount anyway.
Then of course with the shorter trans, you need to get the motor as far back as possible. This means a 14 inch air cleaner hits the hood latch requiring that to be moved.
No, the big deal is just in not being able to use a kit where you know everything will fit the first time out.
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look for a vacuem leak-if you have some kind of scanner where you can monitor short term fuel trim if you squirt carb cleaner around possable leaking spots you will see the stft pid change when you find the leak.obd2 will pic up a .040" vacuem leak.just a small thing like a hose clamp loose at the maf will pop a code.
Yeah I agree. Don't get so caught up in all the computer diagnosis and sensor stuff that you forget to take care of basic automotive mechanics. Vacuum leaks, dirty air filters, clogged fuel filter, loose connectors, old plugs. Check the basics first.
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Bartman, don't underestimate our trusty JTR people. They stay on top of stuff pretty well.
JTR sells stuff for an LS1 swap, but they don't sell a mount kit and they don't have a manual for it. 75% of the old manual is still directly applicable to the LS motors, but there are some major LS specific differences that aren't covered by the old manual.
There are people who have done LS swaps in less than a week using JCI's kit. I would think the two swaps are at about the same level of difficulty. That is unless you get cute and decided to use a carb'd LS motor and a non-T56 trans. Then you have to solve all your own problems.
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I should know in about a week when my headers are delivered. I dont see any issues with the starter from my initial trial fit before the k-members were installed. We'll see but I hope I dont have to redo them.
I've been thinking alot about this. The back side of the TC cups are very heavily reinforced with the subframe (see pics) but there is nothing vertically to really add support where the cups attach to the frame rail. I'm open to suggestions here if you got ideas.
Thanks
Cameron
Well you probably don't want to here this but I would have tried to tie the K frame back into the frame rails and not the TC cups.
A suggestion for you. When I clad my frame rails with 18 guage sheet, I cut long slots through the new metal so I could weld the center part of the new steel and not just the outer edge. Pretty easy to do and grind down smooth. It makes everything like it is one solid piece instead of two layered pieces.
I am not sure what engine you are putting in or why you need a K frame, but here is an early pic of my unfinished LS motor cross member
I have since welded some gussets between the sides and the motor mount brackets. I also double layered the whole frame rail from the TC cups to in front of the stock crossmember. I then welded in pieces of pipe through the frame rail to make bolt holes to secure the cross member.
My header on the passengers side comes out just behind the motor mount on my cross member. In fact, you can see the left and right sides point in opposite directions. That is because I had to move the passenger's side mount forward an inch just to get clearance for the JTR LS headers.
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A grinder usually eats right through that stuff.
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Man that sucks. You had just gotten that car, and I remember the hassle you had trying to get insurance in the first place.
Hard to believe they expect you to keep up the insurance premium when you don't have a car. The bank is another matter.
I can tell you first hand that working insurance across state lines can be a nightmare. States all have different laws.
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Do you also want someone to come by and hold you hand while you remove the numbered, circled items?
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If only it wasnt ugly as sin. Always a catch isnt there? lol
LOL.
Can't say I like the angles on some of the body panels. But the big tires pushed all the way out to the corners looks sweet. Definitely an Audi influence.
The other catch is it being a Chrysler product. At least it has a German transmission.
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I am not familiar with these cars. Could someone tell me if that is just a turbo L6 like they put in Z's?
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well what do you know, turns out they might rehash the razor concept again!
This link estimates 2500 # curb weight. Under 6 second 0-60. Strut front suspension though, but multilink rear.
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I am going to upgrade my supply and return lines. But I plan on doing it by soldering in new lines similar to the way the stock lines are placed. Simply take some 3/8 inch line, fashion a pick up and return, solder them to a small plate, then solder the plate to the tank in hole I drill near the stock pickups.
Doesn't seem that complicated.
As for clean and sealed, be careful of applying any aftermarket tank sealers. There has been more than one member who went through months of being stranded on the side of the road before they figured out the linings were disintigrating and clogging their fuel system. Just make sure you do the sealers exactly right.
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For the same reason modern econoboxes don't get the super high gas mileage of the same cars back in the70's and 80's: modern safety standards have just made everything too damn heavy. Air bags, crash test, all that crap adds weight. The Solice platform is a perfect example. A small car that is still a heavy pig.
Cars have also gotten so expensive with fuel injection computers, air bags, lifetime emissions warranties, that trying to save money by eliminating all the bells and whistles just makes the consumer feel cheated. The base cost of the car is already so high that the buyer is left thinking he paid a ton for not much. The extras don't add much to the total so why not be comfortable?
And I absolutely disagree with the notion that inexpensive and sporty = massive sales. Just compare the sales of 240Z's with ZX's. Bigger, heavier, more comfortable, more options = more sales and bigger mark ups (hence profit).
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Being low on coolant can also cause the temp gauge to read low.
Beyond that replace your thermostat
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Three things. First 71 240's had the diff mounted 35 mm farther forward than later variants. So unless someone has upgraded your car to move the diff back where it belongs, you will have to turn the diff mount backwards from the way everyone else uses it.
Second, I think the diff mount for the 71's is slightly different from the later models anyway. At least if I remember correctly MSA has different part numbers for the early vs. later cars.
Third, don't use a solid front diff mount. Not unless you also plan to solid mount the rear of the diff.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108276&highlight=solid+diff
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117336&highlight=solid+diff
Question: Have you Seen many "Historic" Datsun cars for sale?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Wanna buy one of the first 100 Z cars? Then go to http://zhome.com/. They have a list of known owners of early Z cars. According to that site, only 31 of the first 100 have been accounted for, so you may get lucky and find one no one knows about.
Personally I would rather have one I can modify and drive.