Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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well redline launches and an open diff r180 dont mix. good thing this happend in front of my house. ....
I'll bet that is just what the neighbors were thinking.
Blowed up real good.
What engine and tire combo?
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If you had not gone to help at the temporary housing they put up in Houston then you really have no clue how bad things where and how horrible people where treated that were trying to help in whatever way they could.
You seem like your heart is in the right place. I compliment you on your efforts. But at the same time you seem pretty clueless. It is disgusting to see it actually happen, but unfortunately the situation was all too predictable.
Welcome to the real world.
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You can still take the pieces back and get a new ratchet.
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If you right click on the pic above you will see the URL is
http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/ford/1076639389/1076639389la.jpg
A clue a clue!
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lol, talk about faux pas. But hey was there ever even a war fought between America and a major(not satellite) communist country? I know America only fought countries that do not have McDonald's.
We shot a lot of Chinese in the Korean war. Bunches and bunches of them. Russian pilots too. I don't think either of them had a McDonalds back then.
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He's going over to the Darkside!
Congratulations Mat!
But remember' date=' do not turn into a dick-head inspector!
Mark[/quote']
Congrats. Make those contractors earn their pay! Protect the homeowner!!
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If you want effective welds and are not worried about pretty welds, than the flux core wire will be fine. BUT the problem most guys complain about with the cheaper craftsman welders is they only have 3 or 4 heat settings. They are difficult to get set right for welding sheet metal. You will spend all of your time cursing as you either burn holes in the metal or get cold welds. A better quality machine will make you feel like Jessie James in no time.
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the 280z uses the r200 diff which is a bit longer than the R180 on the 240 and is placed a bit further back that the earlier cars,
Not quite correct. I bolted an R200 in place of the R180 in my 240. The diffs are the same length, but in the real early 240's were simply mounted differently.
There are significant differences in the shells. The doors are completely different, including the latch mechanisims. A lot of the suspension parts are different. The 280's had thicker strut tubes, different front hubs, different stub axles, different steering racks. The 280 strut top hats are an inch or two taller than the 240. The 280's have subframe rails that go all the way under the car where as the 240's stop about 2/3 the way back.
how much of this will affect you I don't know. I would drop a PM to zcarnut, because I know he has posted extremely detailed lists of the differences between the two cars. You might search through some of his old posts. If you go to the members page, there should be a button that will display every post he has ever made.
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You are about where I was a year or so ago. Somehow or the other I have talked myself into believing a new crate motor is the only way to go. I could probably save a lot of money scrounging for deals on used stuff. But all it would take is one bad deal to wipe out whatever money I might have saved. But since I don't work in the auto field, it is not like I see used engine deals all the time. It could be a lot of work for me to find a deal. I know I am being overly paranoid since so many guys successfully build from used engines.
450-500 is not a given on an LS1 motor. If that is your goal, then from what everybody tells me an LS motor is probably the cheapest way to get there. Supposedly LS engines maintain their street manners at 400+ HP better than the earlier generations, so that is one of the huge advantages of the LS motors. But you will spend some serious money converting a 345 HP Fcar motor to those levels.
The weight savings on the LS over an LT motor is more like a 100#
Most guys keep the stock LT1-LS1 EFI and build on it.
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I agree with Paz8. With all the work you did putting in the Corvette suspension an LS motor shoud be a walk in the park. Enouhgh people have done it that there is plenty of help available.
goto http://www.brokenkitty.com for a bolt in LSx kit. The JCI kit, combined with JTR headers, should make the LS swap no more difficult than the LT1 swap.
Or go to this link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105868 if you want to build your own mounts from scratch. With your new firewall this method will give you more flexibility in placing the engine.
Do you even have the Datsun crossmember anymore? You will need that for the JTR mounts on the LT1 motor
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Anything other than a stock LS install is going to blow the 5K budget all to hell. Even that is going to push it. A 450hp LS would push 10K. Do a search on LS1' date=' LS2, LS6, and you'll get an idea what's required, there are several hours good reading there.
jt[/quote']
I'll Roger That. If you want a low miles LS1/T56 pull out from a 2001-2002 Fbody (which are suppose to have the best heads and block oiling) then that is $5k right there. Add another 2-3 thousand to install it. The salvage yards have finally figured out that there are not many of these engines around and that demand is high. Prices went up a good grand since the end of last year. You can definitely do better if you shop around and maybe buy a complete car at a salvage. But $5K is the ebay/wrecking yard price these days.
You can get a set up from an earlier year for maybe $3k
I was originally budgeting about $8K for a complete pull out swap. But that has now grown to $10k to $12K because I want the whole 450 HP from day one.
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So would it be safe to say that the almost rust-free, leaky seal-free, complete, running 280Z 2+2 with an extra rebuilt L28 for $700 be considered a "steal". No bondo, no dents, but needs paint.
Yeah, I would. The 240's are worth a good bit more than 280's and the 2+2 lowers the price even more. Straight, rust free bodies are where it is at.
But some items on these old cars command a real premium. A new dash for a 240 sells for upwards of $1000 and I have seen bumpers sell for half that.
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Most people wouldn't really consider an LT1 "new school". I don't think there is any real advantage to an LT1 over a first gen SBC other than it is a cheap way to get a good performing fuel injection. In fact, LT1's were made for so few years that they don't have the aftermarket support of the first gens.
Unless you use stolen parts, a 450 HP engine is not going to be cheap no matter what generation engine you use. And, if your smart, you don't just "add a turbocharger" to a 450 HP motor. A 600 HP forced induction motor is a purpose built machine. You will build it differently than you will a NA motor.
The first thing you need to ask yourself is why do you need 450 HP? That is a really strong street machine and will cost some $$ to get there with an LT1 or first gen motor. If you were starting from scratch, then in my opinion the cheapeast way to get there will be with an LS1 motor. But I can tell you right now you will need to double your budget to put a 450 HP LS motor in your car.
If I were you I would forget the LT1 motor (unless you really want fuel injection) and concentrate on building up the motor you have.
BTW, most garden variety SBC's are less than 300 HP. But even with 200 some HP the car should be pretty fast. If you got an honest 350 HP you might rethink the need for 450 HP.
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Grounds should be the same guage as the other conductors..... this is important... you can cause a fire if you fail to match all of the conductors guages.. including ground.
Boy. Don't know that I agree with that one. Guess I had better call the county inspector back and tell him he shouldn't have approved my sunroom wiring. I am not an electrician, but ground wires are commonly a smaller gauge than the hot/neutral wires.
Ground and neutral have no common purpose... they are completely independant... there is NO CASE where ground and neutral work together... DO NOT MAKE THIS MISTAKE... EVER!!!!Well, if I look in my main panel, the neutral and ground wires are both solidly connected to the box. Guess the original inspector goofed that one up too. We can forget about anything I said about subpanels since that has no bearing on this discussion.
The breaker needs to be matched to the wiring and the receptacle. 30 amps should be fine, so that means 10 guage wire. However, since your outlet is going to be outside, to be completely legal you should use a GFI breaker. And to be really picky since it is going outside through a conduit, you should not use sheathed cable and your ground wire needs to have green insulation (not bare wire) once it exits the dwelling.
But my guess is you are not going to want a 30 amp GFI breaker once you see how much those things cost. Plus I think welders can cause those things to accidentially trip. Just get a plain ole 30 amp breaker and 10 guage wire. For your short run you will be fine.
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If the only thing that is going to be plugged into the circuit is a single 220V device, then there should be absolutely no current in the ground/neutral wire. All the current should flow through the black and white wires. For a single outlet you only need the two fat wires and one tiny ground.
If you are going to put in a subpanel, then you need the "big ole fat" neutral wire. A subpanel feed should have a 3 fat wires (black and red hot wires with a white neutral) and a separate ground wire. You then need to make certain you wire the subpanel so that the neutral and ground wires are NOT connected at the subpanel.
That way you can put some 110V outlets in the subpanel, in which case the white neutral wire will carry current.
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I'm still kicking around options here. Haven't really decided yet. I was looking at the TKO over the T56 because of strength, gearing and the fact the TKO has both mechanical and electronic speedo hook ups.
If you look at the first link I posted, they have a table listing the dimensions and weights of the TKO, T56 and T5's. They also have pop up links showing the dimensions.
http://www.fortesparts.com/catalog.cfm?catalogID=2
So the TKO weights 105# where as the T56 weights anywhere from 115# to 130#. For prices, in th elink below a new TKO 600 is $1900.
http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/tr-3550.html
So not cheap, but about the same as a new, aftermarket T56. The price of a new over used tranny goes up even more when I add a bellhousing, linkage etc. I want a new clutch anyway so that is a push.
But from calling a couple of these tranny places, the TKO is a much stronger transmission (rated at 600 ft-lbs of torque). The first link shows the F-car T56's are rated at under 400 ft-lbs. Most of these places have seen numerous failed T56's, but not failed TKO's.
So going with the TKO would save me needing to replace my speedo and should give me all the gears I would ever need. Just need to figure out where the shifter will pop out and whether the money I could save isn't worth the risk of buying a used/potentially abused T56.
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I am examining some options here and was wondering if anyone has sucessfuly installed a TKO transmission and LSX engine into a Zed?
The two big issues I have yet to resolve is where will the shifter come out when using JCI mounts and what type of clutch linkage I would need to use.
From what I can tell, it looks like the TKO shifter will be 3.5 inches farther forward than the late F body T56. This link has pop ups which show the T56 and TKO dimensions.
http://www.fortesparts.com/catalog.cfm?catalogID=2
The old style Chevy bellhousings are an inch taller than the LSX ones.
If all of the above is correct, any ideas if this could be made to work with the JCI monts? I also thought the 240's (which I have) and the 280's have shifter holes that are positioned slightly differently. Anyone notice that with the JCI kits?
For clutch linkage, I have gotten everything from just using the LS1 stuff to using the old school SBC mechanical stuff.
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Well whatever it is it should be real easy to find once you start unbolting things.
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There is a company in Austrailia that sells an ATB type diff for the R200 for half the price of a quaiffe. Can't remember the name so try a search.
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Pep Boys has cheap univerisal ones. I got some 1/4 inch 4 lug ones there for cheap. All the only line places (Summit Racing, Jegs, etc) have the more expensive ones.
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The studs should be longe enough that you have a couple threads showing once the lug nuts are properly torqued down. what you have now is flat out unsafe. Buy longer studs, or better yet, get a set of 15 inch wheels which do not require spacers.
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Very cool. I think one major problem you will have measuring lift is getting the air flow into the engine compartment correct. Zeds have a huge friggin air scoop called a radiator opening that brings in a lot of air and causes significant front end lift.
And for drag you will need something that measures how hard the car is being pushed backwards, not lifted.
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If 3200 includes the price of the car, then no. There have been a few documented cases of swaps for as little as $1500. But in your case with an unknown car, I would say that is asking alot. Like suggested above, read a few threads and find out.
BTW, if the car is truely rust free and only needs engine work to get started, then $1800 is a steal. If the dash is uncracked and the bumpers straight, then that is over half the purchase price right there.
"Rust free" is a relative term that depends on whether the person is buying or selling. Too many guys have gone to look at "rust free" cars only to find cars with gaping holes in the floor boards.
Keep in mind these cars are OLD. I have owned my California born 71 for 18 years, the last 6 of which have been garaged. I am starting to work on it and finding that every piece of rubber I touch virtually disintegrates. That car will almost certainly need new weatherstrip, seals, fresh brakes, steering rack boots, firewall grommets and most importantly, new gas tank vent hoses. The gas fumes will kill you otherwise. On the plus side, complete, running 240 engines can be had for as little as $500. I might even have one for sale soon.
But even with all that, such an old car may prove to be a less than reliable daily driver. You will have to work on it to keep in going. My suggestion would be to LOOK AT THE CAR CAREFULLY. Then if you buy it see if you can get it running somewhat reliably on L6 power first.
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You think your SPEC clutch failure was bad?
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=508237&highlight=ls7+clutch
Just keep ditch water handy.
How fast am i going?
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Ask a hunter or fisherman buddy if you can borrow his hand held GPS. Once you know how far off the speedo is it should be a simple matter to get the right cog.