Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Anyone ever reloacte the heater hose penetrations in the firewall? This is on a 240 and looks like the heater hoses are going to hit right into the back of the head.
From the engine bay it seems like it would be a simple matter to hole saw two new holes, patch the old ones and reroute the hoses. Just not sure how what kind of obstructions I will see under the dash.
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What is the punishment for "tampering" with smog equipment.?
Miles
I think the big problem is they won't renew your registration, so no plates.
Crate motors need to go through a referee station and get a door label that certifies the swap. Have to talk to the referee for more details.
I would think once the car is certified with a different engine you could do anything you wanted. How is the cop on the street going to know what was on the car when it was certified and what wasn't? They can call up a computer list of required equipment if the car has the original engine, but there is a limited amout of crap they can write on the door label.
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Too funny. Especially about turning around the terminal.
I guess I got lucky. They guys at the local Advanced Auto and Autozone are actually pretty good. Especially with an old car with so many mixed and matched parts. I have better luck at the local chain stores than I have at the Toyota dealers. Those bastards won't sell you anything without a VIN number first, and the Toyota computer has my VIN listed as the wrong year. Every time I go in there they insist on selling me the part that matches the VIN, and every single time I have to take it back and get something from the earlier year.
Definitely bring in the part, or at least several very clear digital photos. Kind of tough when the bad part is something like the back O2 sensor on a V6 minivan.
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In the Grapes of Wrath Tom Joad checked for sawdust in the diff of his truck...
What Grumpy said.
Are you sure it is a bearing and not something on the outside of the engine?
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Personally' date=' I think the Arizona Z-car A-arms look flimsy as hell for use on the street. They may be great parts, but intuition tells me they will be trouble. My intuition is seldom very far off.
My $.02
John[/quote']
The guy who makes the AZC stuff has been selling them for 20+ years. If there was something wrong with them someome would have found it by now.
I think the answer to the question is the one you excluded, adjustability. From what I have read, the AZC stuff makes for a stiff riding machine.
And of course there is always the show car factor.
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Hmmm. Mad Dog. Mad Dog 20-20.
Lost a few brain cells to that stuff.
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I bled the brakes with a pressure bleeder 3 times before taking the car off stands, just because it's so easy when it's up in the air without wheels. The 2nd and 3rd time there was basically no air coming out. I couldn't start the car up but the pedal felt very firm without the booster (no real surprise.)
You wrote a lot of words, so let me see if I am reading this correctly. The pedal is firm with the engine off, but gets spongy when running?
Reaction disk. Classic symptom.
BTW, with stainless brake lines the pedal should move freely until the MC starts to engage, then it should be like stepping on a brick.
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The nut on the top of the strut shaft caused thumping sound on my Z for years. Make sure the shaft isn't turning with the nut either.
First things first, grab a torque wrench and torque every bolt in the rear end.
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It's tough to say anything good about the 1979 280ZX or 280ZX 2+2. ....Motor Trend tested a '79 2+2 and found, no surprise, that 135 horsepower and 2,915 pounds didn't make for scintillating acceleration. With the five-speed, the 2+2 took an awful 11.3 seconds to reach 60 mph and covered the quarter-mile in 18.0 seconds at 77.0 mph. The handling wasn't particularly sharp, either, but the wallowing ZX was a hit anyhow.
Damn. That is slower than a Prius...
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They say the sound of a 12 guage being pumped is the universal language everybody understands.
Not to get to preachy, but it is not a good idea to pull a gun unless you are fully ready to use it.
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You forgot the hotmail address, too.
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Awsome find. Can't believe you paid $2500 either. That is in better condition than mine.
Funny thing. I use to live in Redondo Beach, now I live in Maryland and I drive a dec 70 240Z that is registered as a 71.
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You are asking a pretty basic question. Try reading this, especially item #2
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Yellowpages under steel or structural steel. Some places don't like selling to the general pubic so you may have to call a few. Others will only sell sheet metal in whole (4x8) pieces.
You can also yellowpage scrap metal yards. The selection is hit or miss, but they sell it by the pound so you can really get some great deals. Even load up the scraps from the shop and basically trade it pound for pound.
I got lucky and found a metal working shop near my work that sells stainless and aluminum to the general public. They have a metal forming shop on site and sell scraps by the pound. I stop by on a regular basis and look for deals. They often have huge cubes of solid stainless or aluminum.
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Can't let the heat slow me down. I may take more frequent breaks but for the most part I just sweat it out.
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My kids are too young to require any serious auto work. However, my neighbors call me "Home Depot" because they come to me whenever they need anything special done. Things like replacing a water heater, fixing their house wiring or especially to borrow tools, nuts and bolts. It has gotten to the point where neighbors of our neighbors friends will come by to get boards ripped or routed. And of course all the neighbor kids known I am happy to fill their bike tires.
Funny thing is I absolutely hate asking other people for help.
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I was just looking into hooking up an LS1 alternator. A Speartech guy regularly posts over on LS1TECH.com says the sensing wire must have an indicator bulb or a 500 ohm resistor wired into the line. Running a straight 12 wire to the alternator sensing line will greatly shorten the life of the alternator.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40815
Don't know if the LT1 alternator is the same as the LSx, but couldn't hurt to do the above. You could even tap the sensing wire into the ground of the alternator idiot light. That would give you the needed resistance and a working idiot light.
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Any way to change the default settings in the FAQ section so posts more than 2 weeks old are visibile?
Threads in the FAQ section should stay up forever.
Not everyone will think to scroll to the bottom of the page and select a different time out date on threads to display
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Damn! Such a good idea I decided to do the same
Got two $8.99 keychain laser pointers at PETCO in the cat toy aisle. Ground off the key chain mount, drilled and tapped a hole then mounted to a flat piece of scrap. Three button sized magnets, put the thing on the drill press table and shimmed the pointers until spinning the table scribed a single dot on the ceiling. Only thing left to do is use a small clamp to hold them on.
These and a box of cigars will greatly simplify setting up the motor mounts.
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People have been making biodesiel and ethonol out of farm waste for years. Many new landfills have vents to extract methane from the rotting garbage.
Recycling trash is nothing new. I wouldn't get too excited just yet. The problem is in the numbers. The world uses a LOT of fuel. The big question is can they make enough of this cheaply enough to make a difference.
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Any reason why you didn't just get a T56 from a 93-97 LT1 car? Should have bolted up directly.
Drilling a hole in the back of the crank does not sound like fun to me.
I thought the LS T56's had shorter input shafts than the LT variants? Seems like that would make the shaft come up short of the crank and not the other way around.
I must be missing something.
What you say about the bellhousing bolt holes is true. They only differ by one mounting bolt.
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You need to worry about getting water in the oil and oil in the water.
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Go to the jags that run site and order their manual. It will tell you everything you need to know.
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Move heater hoses
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Man. Such good info so quickly.
First off, nice car ThomaZ. Gives me something to shoot for. The pics you took will save my fat behind from trying to bend down under the dash.
I am fabricating my own mounts, roughly following Mark's write up. Trouble is I am using a TKO trans, which has the shifter located 3 1/2 inches farther forward than a T56. I need to push this thing as far back as I can.
I just lowered the engine into the bay for the first time this afternoon. No mounts yet. Just hanging the engine with bellhousing from a lift. From what I can see the lower hose in particular will hit directly into the back of the head. Maybe I can get it lower, but I don't believe I can get it that low.
I already have 8 feet of braided heater hose and new grommets that I was planning to use. But I think the overall job will look better if I locate the penetrations somewhere near the battery and bring the hoses along the outer fender. Can triple up some type of mounting rail and hang the wiring harness on it too. Those bulkhead plates Bartman listed look cool. I have some old holes duct taped over where I think the PO had AC. So I will be patching the firewall anyway.
This carbed LS2 is going to be slick. GM moved a lot of the junk away from the back of the engine when they went from the LS1 to the LS2. Losing the fuel injection got rid of a bunch of other obstructions. The LS2 PCV system is even reworked, so there will be almost no hoses on the engine. I am going to get this thing so far back that I might have to leave the engine lift plates on.
To give you some idea, I need to remove the stock brake/clutch line mounts that go over the top of the tunnel cause one of the bellhousing bolts is hitting them. Clutch is on the drivers side now and was planning on routing the right front brake line along the new cross member anyway. So that only leaves the rear brake line to re engineer. Even getting it this far back I may need to trim the center console up to the ash tray. The good thing is the steering shaft clears everything by a mile.
Looking like a lot of work right now.