Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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...but the point is noone else that I have seen is doing anything like this ...
Maybe that should tell you something.
You could bolt a gas powered leaf blower to your intake too. That would be different. Still doesn't make it a good idea.
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AFR makes a damn nice set of LT1-LT4 heads. Pricey, but hard to beat performance wise.
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Well as you see that is what Im talking about, look at the speed rating on that tire, a T rating, meaningless for performance.
A good topic of discussion, but it depends on what you want to use the car for. For an autoXer, you probably want to go with a non-speed rated tire
because they are generally lighter. An autoX car will never see sustained speeds, so the speed rating can be a waste of money.
My understanding is that it is accumulated heat that makes tires fail at speed. So if you only run at high speeds for short periods of time and/or your car is significantly below the load rating of the tire, then you don't need to match the rated speed to the clockwise peg on your speedo.
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Wearing a beanie or a do rag helps keep sweat from rolling down a bald head and into my eyes.
Have to be careful of reflections. My brother once got a bad case of flash burn in his eyes when he first started welding inside a stainless steel tank. The welding light went off the back of the tank, then the inside of his face sheild and into his eyes. He now wears a beekeeper looking hood.
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yea...i saw that earlier. i swear i put that size in once and nothing came up. but the white letters..eh. i just wanted the big *** wheels, but i cut down about 1.5 inches to a 9.5 or a 10, and just gonna rock a 245/45/16.
Yeah, I have no idea how good that particular tire is. But the tire rack search function in pretty easy to use. Maybe you will find something better in a slightly different size.
BTW, you can always mount the raised white letters on the inside.
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tire rack lets you search by tire size and performance type
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/SearchTires.jsp
Tires for size 265/50-15
Search New Size Search by Vehicle
Performance Category: All
Brands: All
Speed Ratings: All
Run-Flat: Included
Results: 1 - 1 of 1 that fit your search criteria.
Dunlop GT Qualifier T
(Performance All-Season)
Overview | Specs | Warranty | Reviews | Survey Results
Sidewall Style: Raised White Letters
Size: 265/50TR15
Serv. Desc: 99T
Price: $83.00
Estimated Availability: In Stock
Road Hazard Program $39.84 total with four tire purchase
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unless its a 5,000 mile LS1 and M6 out of a 01 or 02 it deffinatly isnt worth that
Hate to keep harping on this. It may not "be worth it", but it is the going rate at salvage yards these days. I called the other day about an 37K mile, LS1/T56 out of an 01 Camaro and they wanted $6100.
The F body combos are getting more expensive every day. Even the ebay jobbers are asking more for these packages.
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One would think that faster flow of water through the radiator does NOT reduce cooling efficiency – in fact, quite the reverse. The engine/water pump/radiator/plumbing are a closed system. So, faster flow through the radiator means faster flow everywhere in the system (conservation of mass!) unless part of the coolant flow somehow bypasses the radiator. Water that flows quickly through the radiator will also return quickly; it will spend “more cycles per minute†in the radiator, even if each cycle is shorter. I’m sure that going through the heat transfer equations would confirm that assuming radiator fin surface area is kept constant, that faster water flow increases the heat flux from the coolant overall, into the radiator and into the ambient air.
But the mass flow rate through the engine is the same, so I would think the more time the coolant spends in the raditor the more heat you can suck out of it.
Of course if you slow the coolant down so much that it transitions from a turbulent to laminar flow....
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what do you mean by new components. most of the aftermarket kits offered are just reconfigurations of existing parts that have already been tested and approved for other applications. in the case of the z series cars, i have yet to see a brake modification that didn't add to the safety of the vehicle.
How about that guy who mounted a bolt at the end of the MC to "reduce firewall flex"?
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i belive from GM parts direct was the 6k including stand alone harness and computer. buy the LS2 though. AC is on its own belt, so it is removed so easily. for the PS, you just get a shorter belt. T56 clutches run 3-700 depending. yeah a used LS1 is a good deal, but the LS2 is better, it already has upgraded heads and it has more displacement. it all comes down to personal prefrences and a budget in the end. id budget about 1000 for all the things you will forget lol
Good info.
Thanks
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Do a search on the magic gas cocktail to reduce emissions. What is it, Toluene ?
Actually just do a normal tune up so it runs right and chances are you will minimize the emissions.
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So what do we call guys who put wings on German cars?
Bratwursters?
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If you read some of the recent threads where people have welded their R180's, I think the correct answer ot the title question is much longer than the halfshafts.
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Can't you hook up a vacuum line up stream of the turbo?
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stock T56s have some issues, you should step it up to a aftermarket one anyways IMO. only accesory that you need on a crate motor would be the alt, already has a water pump on it.
Well, yeah. Need an alternator. But correct me if I am wrong but won't you also need a few other pieces to hook up the serpentine belt? How easy is it to delete the AC/ PS pump and any idler pulleys? Does the crate engine come with all the brackets and bolts? Also most crate engines seem to come with an automatic flex plate, so need to source a manual flywheel. Probably want a starter too. Pull outs usually throw in a driveshaft so need to source one of those, or at least the yokes. T56 clutches are expensive.
SDPS has this engine for $5495, but no harness or computer
Here is one that adds the computer and harness for $6,895
http://skillmanracingparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=2LM&Category_Code=GPE
I imagine the shipping will be a few hundred at least. Could any body give me an itemized list of what it would cost to add all the missing pieces?
Only reason I ask is I estimated I can do an entire swap for $8K and budgeted $4500 for the engine/tranny pull out . But I am also seriously interested in an LS2 crate engine ($5700 in the link below), but figure by the time I add all the missing pieces my $4500 engine/tranny estimate will be be over $8K by itself.
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/120/products/272567/LS-364-440-Carbureted-Crate-Engine.htm
What am I missing? Can't figure out how I would get a new engine and used T56 for less than $8K. Why is it such a bad deal to drop 4 or 5 thousand on a low mile pull out?
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Yeah, and let me tell you guys it isn't all bed and roses having more than 8 inches.
Bigger isn't always better.
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Yes to 1 and 3, my guess no to 2.
First things first, clean the battery posts with wire brush (whether they look clean or not) then make absolutely certain the grounds are good and negative battery post is solidly attached to the block/starter.
To test the solenoid, try jumpering the contacts with a screwdriver.
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for a 01-04 LS1 anything more than $3500 is to much IMO. you can still buy a brand spanking new LS1, harness and computer for 6k i belive
But then used T56 trans are going for upwards of $2K. Also the crate LS1 doesn't include all the other accessories needed to complete the engine. The small stuff adds up quick.
I have seen complete pull out prices that range from about $2400 for a high mileage 98 with auto trans to $4500-$6000 for a lower mile, 02 with manual trans. Anything with GTO on it, even the LS1 variants, command a higher premium.
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25 year old vehicles usually don't turn out to be the most reliable of daily drivers.
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From everything I have read, make sure you upgrade your pushrods with stronger units. The stock LS1 pushrods are said to be marginal at best.
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I have a 175 amp DC MIG, but have yet to turn the heat setting all the way up. Smaller amp welders usually have a low setting that is rated for thinner gage metal. I think getting a DC welder is actually more important than the max amp range.
I like 220 V just because it doesn't dim the house lights like a 110 V unit can.
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You put twin turbo's on a cage?
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If you are not worried about weight, just get a stock Z radiator recored to a 3 row core. Shouldn't cost more than $100. Quite a few guys have used that set up with no cooling problems. Bolts right in with no additional brackets. Only worry then is whether your fan is strong enough.
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Surface area and air flow through the radiatior also play a part. Add too many rows and it will restrict the airflow and can actually reduce cooling capacity. Check the JTR site for his notes on 3 (or 4?) row core radiators.
Clarify some collector car insurance restrictions?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I looked into insurance with a company called JC Taylor. They were dirt cheap, but said I could only use the car for parades and club events. They said my insurance would be no good if I decided to make a quick run to the store on a weekend.
Ended up getting regular insurance with Gieco for $300/year.