Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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If I were you I would find an electrician buddy and slip him some $$$. It is not hard to do if you know what you are doing. But if you do something stupid you have invalidated your homeowners insurance. You need to make absolutely certain your main box can handle the extra load. There is no shame in not knowing what you are doing, but boy will you be embarassed if you burn your house down.
You cannot piggy back a second box off the mini one as you call it. You need to add a new breaker to the main box. Best way to do that is have that breaker feed a subpanel in the garage. That way you will have a breaker in the garage subpanel for the welder, and some room for extra breakers to run a compressor or other high amp tools. Subpanels get wired differently than just an outlet.
If you want to do some reading, do a google search on how to wire a hot tub. They take a 50-60 amp 230V circuit too. The web has some pretty simple explanations on how to wire a hot tub.
And forget you ever heard about 3 phase power. You won't have that in your home and never will.
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Could be vacuum leaks. Make sure all hoses are in good shape and nothing is loose. Get a can of starter fluid or propane and start checking the intake parts for leaks.
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I have the money and not the experience
If you're not careful the two will start to even out...
That has to be one of the best answers I have ever read.
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Even if the welds don't penetrate fully, those things look about 5 times as stong as they need to be. To quote JohnC, there is nothing on a Z car that needs 1/4 plate. And even if they were to break, it would be no more dangerous then driving a Z with a broken front diff mount. It is not like anyone has ever done that before.
All of my welding books say wire has about a 6 month shelf life once opened. Some thing about a micro thin layer of oxide that forms on the wire. Try a new roll of wire. if that doesn't cure it, I'd try a new liner.
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You would think that at some point in the last 3 years he would have found time to post some pics.
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Has anyone tried ceramic spark plug boots?
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=115+400360+317048&autoview=sku
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Isn't he talking about using the stock rubber top hat, just above the sheet metal rather than below it? Why wouldn't that still have the flexy rubber?
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You need to ask this question on LS1 tech. There is a Scoggins Dickey guy who hangs out over there answering questions. SDPC sells an LS2 block with a 402 CI stroker kit. Seems like an excellent way to burn up some of the excess cash you found on the money tree in Florida. I would think that would be a much better starting point than an LS1.
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That is one of the dumbest things I have ever seen.
Why do only large breasted women get stuck?
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This actually looks like it could be a cheap way to LS2 type power. My whole problem is budget. Cheapest way to an LS engine is a complete LS1 pull out that includes the FI and all the sensors/electronics/transmission. At that point going carb would be a false economy since I would be throwing away the FI. But that also means LS1 (no 4" bore) with lower flowing heads and a 320 HP starting point.
Aluminum block LS2 pull outs are still commanding top dollar (upwards of $8k) and have the wrong oil pan. If I get this engine I could probably top it with a carb and maybe $500 of missing ignition parts to get the final price in for what a 320 HP FI LS1 costs. The deal breaker could be adding the tranny and whatever missing accessories I will need.
The cam on this crate engine looks to have the same specs as the standard LS1 engine.
Camshaft, Lift (I/E) : 0.500"/ 0.500" , Hydraulic roller
Camshaft Duration @ 0.050" I/E : 200/203 degrees
I would be willing to bet a cam change would put this thing over 520+ HP. I know a brand new, LS1 crate engine will exceed 500 HP with just an upgraded cam.
I do know that the LS2 engines repositioned the knock sensors, so I am pretty sure you can't graft an LS1 injection system onto the LS2 without a new program in the ECU. Maybe someone has found a cheap way to solve that problem, but going carb could probably save a couple of thousand dollars off the price of finishing off an LS2 engine with the missing FI pieces. That is not including the price of tuning software or future replacement of failed sensors.
Plus think of how old school a 1970 240z with a carbed, aluminum block motor would be. I know FI is the better method, but one has to ask at what cost? I mean, which would you rather have, a 320 HP FI motor or a 500+ HP carbed motor that is still street worthy?
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Jon is right. That thing looks exactly like the Harbor Freight unit. I picked up the same unit for $40 or $50 on sale at HF. Sure beats the $150 that ebay dildo wants.
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Just found this link while searching Scoggin-Dickey for LS2 crate engines
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/4152/products/272567/LS-364-440-Carbureted-Crate-Engine.htm
Looks like GM took an LS2 block with LS6 heads and added a 4 bbl intake.
440 HP carbureted HP and 412 ft-lbs of torque.
Can't really tell what the $5700 above buys. Anyone familiar with this crate engine? I assume the 364 is cubic inches?
And please, no flame wars on carb vs. fuel injection.
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I'd feel bad if I took that and "started" on it. I feel much better tearing at my 500 dollar, somewhat rusty, non-running "junk" that no one else wanted.
Not me. The car isn't exactly rare. Seems like a perfect starting point for a V8. No cosmetic or body work needed. Just wrenching and a little hammering.
Vroom vroom.
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When I was 19 and living on a Navy ship I rebuilt a wrecked car in a rented garage that was in back of a row of houses. Quit looking at the public storage places and look in the local newspaper for a garage off somebody's house. They are out there. Just be respectful of the neighbors and clean up after yourself and there should be no problems.
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Beauty! Thanks for the picture. Will do something similar with mine.
Never liked the idea of bolting a flat bar to the floor pans.
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Very nice work. Black on red is perfect.
Very impressive.
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If you guys want to use anodes, then you will have to firmly bolt them directly to the inside of the raditor where they will be in direct contact with the coolant. You have to get it onto bare metal too. Not sure how you would accomplish this.
And try a boating store or marina that works on boats. They may even give you some old boat anodes that you can cut down.
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25% more than the rating of the fuseable link. You can go larger than that. Just shouldn't go smaller.
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Your home water heater has an anode installed. Basically the anode rusts first preventing the metal in the heater/boat/radiator from rusting. Anodes need to be replaced every now and then cause once they are gone, it becomes the other metal's turn to rust.
Also everything I have ever read says straight antifreeze is not as good as the proper mix.
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I think most guys figure it out the same way you did.
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You don't need shorter struts. You need to section your struts. In other words cut 2 inches out of your strut tubes and weld them back together. Once you do that, you can get the correct length struts inserts for the shortened tubes. If all you do is buy shorter struts, then you will need to put spacers in the tubes to get the struts to fit. At that point you have accomplished nothing. You will have no more travel than with the correct length strut for the stock tubes.
Once you have shortened the tubes, you will need coilovers and stiffer springs. The only real difference between a race set up and a street set up is the spring rate (good enough for this discussion). Once you know the spring rate you want (say 200 front and 225 rear), then you can get struts that match that spring rate. A lot of guys have good results with the Illumina struts in their street cars.
Once you do all that, then your lowered car will be less prone to bottoming out.
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I am not disrespecting your set up. Just saying it is not really in the same category as the Arizona Z car stuff. Unsprung weight is important and can get expensive to get rid of. For 99% of the cars, mine especially, that extra 5% performance from the wilwood set up is not worth the money because there are probably a hundred different ways that I could better spend the money. But for a dedicated car that is competing in a competitive class it is money well spent. I think JohnC said his struts alone cost over $10K. Way out of my league, but he built what some have called the faster 240Z around.
For example, I picked up a complete 4 wheel disk brake set up from another member here for $750. Vented 4x4 front brakes, Ross's 240sx rear brakes. Everything including used calipers, spacers, new rotors, KVR pads all around, stainless steel brake lines, bolts, and even a new 5/16 MC. From what I can tell that price would lower your bottom line. But I would never consider this set up to be equivalent to the AZ set up. Those 4x4 calipers are massively heavy. But for the price it is a good set up for my street car, especially since it has a real parking brake and doesn't require 16" wheels.
BTW, people have had bad things to say about the 280 rear calipers. Also hope your front 4 piston calipers are the type that use the vented and not solid rotor, otherwise some people would argue whether you actually upgraded the front brakes or just added weight. Not bitching, just throwing out opinions.
And whatever you do, DO NOT buy the 4x4 calipers from MSA. That is a total rip off price. You can easily get a set from an auto parts place for less than $100.
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Thanks for the info.
Man, that is just too simple. Sure beats a remote reservoir and dual pumps. And cheaper than a replacement tank.
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You forgot to include cromoly adjustable control arms.
Slight oversight.
You will have a good street set up with the zcarparts you list. But don't think it will be as good of a race setup.
What to keep?
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
The LT1 version will.
Since money is an issue I think your choice is clear. Sell the car to your buddy and put the T56 behind the 327.
The t56 is alot tranny for a 327. Heavy too. You might be able to pay for the JTR swap by offering the t56 in trade for a world class T5 and $1000.
Asking or cost effective advice on this board is a tough one. I can almost guarantee someone will suggest keeping the LT1 and throwing some type of forced induction on it. I can't begin to count the number of times someone has asked for suggestions on economical transportation only to have someone suggest getting a used BMW...