Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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To me it looks like it should fold into a robot or something.
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The JTR site has detailed pictures and measurements of the 3 different type of adapter flanges they sell. Using a ruler and their web site you should easily be able to order the correct flange for your diff from them. Then all you need to do is source a used drive shaft from a chevy that had your transmission and take the two pieces to a drive shaft shop for shortening and balancing.
To piggy back on this thread, does anyone know any part numbers for hooking the 1310 Ujoints on the JTR flanges to a shaft using 1330 joints? The chevy dealer could not find the part number listed on the JTR site.
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Having a cooler on one side' date=' but not the other and then switching them and repeating is the best way to take accurate data. The "safety" issue comes from me pushing the car hard on a mountain road. The proper way to do it is to spend $2k and get Buttonwillow Raceway for a day.
Now, jsut so all are aware, I am not speeding through corners on this mountain road, just the opposite. I am just waiting late to brake and then I am braking pretty hard. I don't think that I ever go over the speed limit and I have yet to squeal the tires in a turn. I am actually taking the turns pretty slow...you know, setting up properly for them. Slow in, fast out.
JRD[/quote']
Don't like to see tests that cause brakes to fail performed on public highways. You are being pretty dangerous. Better take this one off road.
I don't like the CO2 idea because you would have to carry an awful lot of CO2 to remove any significant amount of heat. Insufficient specific heat capacity.
And it is not the variation in temps over a prolonged period of time that are a problem. It is the rate of change of temp variation, as well as temperature gradients due to uneven cooling, that could embrittle and crack the steel. I think a steady water mist and bursts of CO2 are radically different in that regard.
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I used to autoX against a bugeyed sprite with a turbo rotary motor. Absolutely phenomenal car. I once watched him do a complete 360 on an autoX track without hitting a cone. He still beat my time.
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Hey Doc' date='
Let's go REAL "old school" and grab the "most dangerous tool in the toolbox"...a round hand file... Might take a while, but you'll have absolute control of what you're doing and you probably already have one.
[/quote']
That is my vote. Nice to have a good assortment of various sized rat tail files.
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Been half a dozen threads on these guys in the past few months. I did a bunch of low intensity internet research when those threads were first circulating. Discoved this Aquygen stuff is a reincarnation of something called Browns Gas from the 80's. Apparently that iteration ended badly for a lot of people.
http://www.phact.org/e/bgas.htm
Since this is nothing new, my guess is it won't amount to a whole lot. But I have been wrong before.
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I met a woman tonight that I really enjoyed being with, infact we were together for 5 hours today and it felt like we were really connecting. Conversation was very natural and very enjoyable. Then we ended up talking on the phone for 2 more hours and it seemed like 10 minutes. Ever done this before? Where did it lead?
Yeah. Still with her 15 years later.
Some times more a matter of timing than anything else.
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That TKO trans wont shifter very well over 6000 rpm. They shift fairly slow and dont do so well. The T56 is a better choice if your going to be shifting at higher RPMS.
Justin
Yeah, I've heard that. But they also claim to have redesigned everything in 2004 including the shift forks and shifter.
Time will tell I guess.
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Do I hear 30%? Anyone got a 30% off coupon?
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Pop N Wood, is that going to require an engine control computer, if so what kind? Just curious, I like the idea of the carburation.
MSD and Edlebrock make one specifically for this engine
Should be pretty sweet. Has a built in rev limiter, nitros retard, MAP sensor connector and can have the spark curves adjusted through plug in modules or a lap top (using free software)
GM also makes a distributor drive that replaces the front timing cover, and retro valve covers for that first gen SBC look.
http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=180629
I prefer the coil pacs and MSD controller.
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Holy Frejolies!!
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No. I use the ZX brake booster on my 260Z with a five speed manual transmission. No clearance problems with regard to the clutch master cylinder. The ZX boosters do have the same bolt pattern as the ‘74-‘78 Z cars.
I think he just said he has a ZX booster on his 260. Sounds like it will work fine.
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Thanks. Time frame is whenever I can get it done. Unibody is going to have some issues. The original plan is to get it driving and do the chassis bracing as part of a restoration next year (or next). But looking at this thing, may have to move that one up.
I am telling you, this thing is one pretty hunk of metal. I want to make a coffee table out of it.
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Ordered the motor on Monday the 3rd of July, picked it up at the local Chevy dealer today, Thursday the 6th. FedEx is delivering the TKO and bellhousing tomorrow, and the JTR headers and radiator should show up Monday.
Hot damn, this thing is too pretty to install in a car. Now to figure out what all the plug in connectors and hoses nipples are for. Funny how they can sell such an expensive engine and the only documentation they send with it is the manifold torquing sequence (in 5 or 6 languages no less).
Look what was waiting for me when I got home from work
Some assembly required:
I ordered this with a Keisler modified HTOB. Looks like they ground the ears off an OEM unit to make it fit. They even shaved off half the hydraulic fitting hole. Uses a single line to the bearing, and needs a bleed valve outside they housing. They claim it bleeds fine this way. Let's hope so.
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That Z world shop has been there since I lived in South Redondo back in the late 80's.
I never stoped in there. Just looked like a garage to me.
A couple of blocks down there is an excellent cigar store though....
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No, but there a social responsibilty involved.
Do you really want to get into that discusssion?
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I cannot begin to count the number of times I have seen this problem caused by dirty battery posts. "Looks clean" doesn't count. First order of business with any electrical problem is to ALWAYS take a wire brush to the posts.
People have a hard time following this advice and always want to start replacing items.
The click you hear is most likely the solenoid energizing as it should. This causes current to flow to the starter causing a huge voltage drop at any high resistance point in the lines. This lowered voltage prevents the solenoid from fully forcing the contact disk into the solenoid lugs causing a further voltage drop to starter motor. The starter is just not getting enough juice to torque over the motor.
An absolutely foolproof way to check the solenoid is to jumper a screwdriver across the big lugs on the solenoid. If the starter doesn't turn over, the solenoid is not the problem. From there it is most likely the battery posts or the battery itself. Maybe hard to get a screwdriver into the solenoid with a V8 but this test works.
With all the "high tech" people like to think are in their cars, this issue hasn't changed since the 50's.
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Instant Grits?
Man, grump, I would hate to go hunting with you.
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I've never heard of this happen to any other tyoe of head other than the ones from the L-series.
My brother had a POS Mitsubishi wagon that happened to. The head was notorious for getting a leaky head gasket. Coolant would seep into the combustion chamber and swiss cheese the inside of the head. The problem was so common with this type of car that as we walked into the salavage yard with the bad head the guy behind the counter, from across the room, shouted out "Got a Mitsubishi head, huh?"
I always figured it was some type of steam explosion that pitted the aluminum. I would think if the water was atomized finely enough that this wouldn't happen.
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I think its a good idea except for the visual. If the car can pass California tail pipe standards' date=' it should be fine.
The reality is that the U.S. is behind a lot of other nations in the world when it comes to auto emissions. That's really bad considering we have one of the largest automotive markets in the world.[/quote']
Man, who are you, Ralph Nader? I don't need no stinking smog inspections on my 36 year old hot rod!!!!
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You need to be careful. I take it your compressor is 220V. In this case, chances are, the black and white wire on the compressor will connect to the black and red house wires. What I am uncertain about is whether your green compressor wire should hook up to the green or white house wire. It will make a huge difference, since doing it wrong could tie your ground and neutral wires together at a point away from the main breaker box.
Check through some of the old threads on this topic and PM the guys who said they were electricians.
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I was just gonna put 240z bumpers on my car, I like the look. completely removing the bumpers and filling in the holes is another option, but I don't think i'll be able to do that.
Have you priced 240 bumpers lately?
Pete Paraska cut down a set of stock 240 rear bumpers so they don't wrap around the body. He also added a bar inside the stock units to strengthen them. Didn't he also get rear ended following all that?
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Thanks
If I had bought a used engine with a working FI I never would have considered pulling it off for a carb. FI is definitely better in most respects. As for complexity, being an electrical engineer who designs and builds programmable radars I think I could have learned how to program the FI more easily than what I am going to have to learn to set up this beast. Can anyone recommend any good carb power tuning books?
But with a crate motor the carb makes a lot of sense. When starting from nothing the FI adds a lot of cost. Plus I don't have any smog restrictions. Little worried about mileage but probably not enough to keep my foot out of it.
This set up is a little more true to the original car. I even plan to reuse the stock choke cable and lever. I mean compare the picture of PrOxLaMuS© engine bay sans engine with my 240 after pulling the motor
The 240 had less than a dozen wires going to the entire engine, and that is only because the mechanical voltage regular is mounted on the fender. I don't mind losing the distributor though. The spark box can be programmed with plug in modules or via a serial port, so there is some "high tech" potential involved there.
I should scan and post the torque curves from the GM performance parts catalog of the carbed motor compared to the FI LS2 and even the LS6 crate motors. All three have the exact same cam specs and I believe heads, but the carbed version is out pulling the FI variants at all RPM's plotted. This (currently) is one of the more powerful small block crate motors GM sells.
I just ordered everything over the last few days, so will take pics as the stuff comes in. With two relatively young kids, a house and full time job this swap is going to progress in bits and pieces. Will probably spend a good portion of the football season watching games, and fabricating. Of course my good friend Jim Beam will be there to help me
80496 Holley huh? really think this 6 liter can make use of 950 CFM? I might cam it in the future, but still seems like a lot of carb. Plus I am a little nervous putting a carb with no choke at all on a street car. How well does something like that start in say 40 degree weather? Would like to get 6-8 months a year use out of this thing.
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Might have lost my mind, but finally got off the fence and started ordering parts. Lots of very expensive parts. The big parts are as follows:
LS2 364/440 crate motor. 440 HP with a single plane carb intake
LS7 clutch and flywheel
TKO600 5 speed, GM street strip version, 0.64 OD fifth
Keisler engineering LS style bell housing
Keisler’s hydraulic throw out bearing
JTR radiator and ceramic coated headers
Mallory Comp 110 fuel pump and return style regulator. Will use ½†feed and return lines.
Carb is TBD, but most likely Holley 750 DP with mechanical secondaries and manual choke.
VISA is impressed.
All going into my 1970 240. Due to the TKO being shorter than a T56 will pattern mounts after Mark Ickard’s write up. This should give me some flexibility positioning the shifter.
Got to use my neighbor the car salesman’s employee discount for the engine, clutch and flywheel. Just under $6k for the trio.
The crate LS2 looks like it is 6.0L LS2 with a different induction system. That being said, the torque curve is a good 20-30 ft-lb higher than the FI motor at all RPM’s. Plus the torque curve doesn’t fall off as the engine approaches red line. The HP curve is still climbing at 6500 RPM.
Any suggestions on carb choice and jetting will be appreciated. Going to be a summer's only car.
I am stoked. Going to be a busy summer. This set up will allow me to use the stock tank and all the stock gauges (except maybe tach). Should be the ultimate sleeper. And no HP tuner or laptops needed (get enough of that at work).
What do I do?
in Drivetrain
Posted
Thanks!!