Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Here is the thread discusssing the various pans
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118395&highlight=oil+pan
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Thanks for posting the link. I was wanting to see it.
But I hard to see how long this thread will stay open. That cop was awfully quick to pull the trigger. But that guys sure was a whinny bitch.
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The problem is I suffer from engineer's disease. I can’t do anything without agonizing over every other possibility first. It can take me 3 months to figure out what type of screws to use to build my daughter a playhouse.
So from what everyone says POR-15 and zero rust are first class products that do what they say. No worries there. They are durable, require relatively less prep, are a near permanent rust fix and as long as you can get the color you want don’t require any follow up.
On the downside they are pricey (although $115 a gallon is not that much more than the $90 I just paid for a gallon of PPG primer with required catalyst) and both product say they are susceptible in some way to UV light. Thus only use on the underside and not top side of the car.
Probably my biggest worry is compatibility with top coats. Everything I have read says to stay with one “family” of paint. Plus a number of guys have said they had trouble getting top coats to stick to the POR 15. Kind of leads me to the conclusion I had better plan on coating the entire engine compartment with the same stuff one way or the other. Plus the POR-15 route leads me to believe I had better be done working on a piece of metal before I use it. The primer probably has a better chance of piecemeal work.
So back to the original question, if I am starting with rust free metal is POR-15 really needed?
It might be a year or so before I do any type of final top coat. Is it bad to leave epoxy primer uncoated for that long? I know it will require a new coat of primer before it can be top coated. But is it a bad idea to spray epoxy primer and never top coat it?
As for the inside of the Bad Dog rails, I fully intend to paint them inside and out before installing them. I plan to remove the paint in the areas of the welds. It should be a simple matter of repainting the welds and seam sealer once they are in.
Does POR-15 flex at all? Any chance of a floor jack on the frame rails breaking off chunks?
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I remember one car mag article that tried to see how much nitrous a stock JY motor would take before blowing up. They put it on the dyno and started pumping larger and larger shots of nitrous through it.
Funny thing, what made them stop was fire belching out of the carb. They theorized that the stock smog motor flowed so poorly that after a point it was incapable of consuming all the nirtous that they were trying to send in.
They never did blow up the motor.
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I am about to put in a set of Bad Dog frame rails. Once done, I will need to paint them. I also have some minor surface rust in few spots, not to mention my newly fabricated cross members for the engine, transmission and diff.
My question is when is it a good idea to use some type of rust encapsulator like POR-15 or Zero Rust instead of just sanding everything down to clean metal and painting with an epoxy primer/top coat?
Both POR-15/Zero Rust say they want bare metal and no top coat. That works fine for black cross members. But is it really needed with new steel?
And for rust spots, it is not like I can do just the battery tray area with zero rust then paint the rest. Why not standard prime/paint there too?
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Isn't the LQ4 a 6.0L and not 5.3L?
The car craft article Dat260 linked got me interested in 6.0L truck motors for Z's. Seems like THE budget way to big HP for a Z.
There are two other members actively installing truck motors in Z's.
Here is one of them
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124821
The other guy is doing a turbo'd 5.3. He switched to an LS intake.
Few things I have learned from all my reading
LS1 240Z is right, leave the rockers alone and get a real cam. Get new pushrods and valve springs while you are at it. Big HP. See Car Craft.
Forget an LS1 oil pan unless you can get one used. Get the LS2 pan. It gives an inch more ground clearance and has better baffling. The part numbers have been posted on this site, so do a search.
The accesories are different between the truck and F body and even Corvette motors. Most articles swap all the stuff ala LS1 240Z's suggestion. But the guy on here doing the turbo 5.3 managed to heat up and turn the water pump outlet to clear the intake manifold. Look up his thread and see how he got the LS intake to work with truck accesories.
And don't worry about forgetting to do something to the motor while it is out. You have plenty of opportunities. It will be in and out at least a dozen times before it comes to it's final resting place.
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Funny, I thought it might be easier/cheaper to just go ahead and order some JTR recommended M8x30 bolts from McMaster Carr. A set of 5 grade 12.9 flange headed socket bolts were $5 + shipping.
Ended up ordering 8 AN 5-11 blots with locknuts from aircraft spruce for $6 shipped to my door. They have a higher tensile rating than the grade 12.9's.
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Now my only issue is getting bolts to fit the new rearend flange, anyone have any ideas??
HB280ZT
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126197&highlight=jtr+bolts
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on most engines 75hp-100hp is no huge increase strain on the engine provided youve backed off the timing advance slightly and jetted the nitrous a bit on the rich side, but Id suggest you never set the nitrious to hit at under about 3000rpm either, and install and ignition rev limiter.
Id further advise NOT useing nitrous if your not running a minimum of 15-20 psi OIL PRESSURE at hot stabile idle once the engine warm or your engines not running an ABSOLUTE MINIMUM of 50 PSI oil pressure at 5000 rpm, either probably indicates some wear and clearance issues you may not want to dump a good deal more bearing loads on.
Id also suggest a baffled 7-8 qt oil pan and a high volume oil pump as oil does a good deal of the cooling on the engines critical parts like pistons,rings,bearings, and under nitrous the heat tends to go up fast
take the time to read thru this
Man, now that's an answer!
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The 240 crossmemmber has about a half inch recess on the passenger's side. Not enough to make a difference in hanging an exhaust. The 240 crossmember is also considerably less beefy than the later units.
What I plan on doing is swapping out my 240 unit and modifying a later R200 crossmember to include cutouts on both sides. Since I added the Ron Tyler style diff mount I can safely cut into the crossmember.
You can kind of see the extra cut out in this picture of an R200 and early R180 crossmember
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There was an excellent write up on a Ford 8.8 rear end. They can be made to fit a Z relatively easily. Should be more than sufficient for your HP goals.
And you may want to do a few searches on that transmission. Not the best choice for a Z.
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The car was professionally done with factory sponsorship.
I would love to know how much if any sheet metal had to be relocated.
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If you read the ad carefully no where does it say the rotors are vented. That is probably just a generic picture.
And $104 is a lot to pay to have them score up the rotors for you. Go to autozone and get some stockers. You won't be able to tell the difference between the two.
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Ouch. Break out the Aloe.
I prefer a nice layer of sheet metal and two extra wheels myself.
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stage 3: A constant bleed system continuously purges a small amount of fluid/steam from the higest point in the engine in the water jacket. The swirl tank returns condensed water back into the suction side of the water pump.
Boy, I don't understand that statement at all. Why do you have steam in your cooling system?
I can see some localized boiling at hot spots and or points of poor flow inside the engine. But by the time the water gets to the thermostat housing there had better be no steam in the stream. Even if there was, the best solution to get rid of steam is to cool it. At which point I don't see the utility of putting in a separate vent. Just run it through the radiator.
And unless you vent it to the atmosphere your "constant bleed" system is not going to do anything to remove air.
Not flaming, just initiating a discussion.
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Sheesh. You guys are making me feel good with the rust situation on my Z.
I thought that battery tray looked pretty bad.
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If you have a drill and some scrap steel you could probably make one too. I have made similar ones for bicycle bottom brackets.
Now that someone more knowledgable has confirmed that is what needs to be done
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Maybe you have already done it, but torque the bolts that hold the pumpkin to the mustache bar.
I got bit by those once.
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That is impressive. Split the block and snapped the crank.
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We've had the conversation before, but make sure the intake on the pump is below the fuel level in the tank. You want it as low as possible.
Pressure dropping at the rail with the pump turned off is probably no real issue. But having the pump lose it's prime because all the fuel drained back into the tank from the inlet side is a problem.
You need to make sure all of the air is out of the pump before it will move fuel. Try drawing a suction on the outlet side of the pump. If you can get fuel out that way, then turn the pump on and see what happens.
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I think Doc Hawk gave you the answer.
But then again, those are some massive sized meats. You must have a pretty stout motor and suspension to make use of all that tire. If you drive a car with meats like that the way it was meant to be driven, then you need to be concerned about stub axles, and everything else in the drivetrain.
What I have gathered from endless hours reading on this site is if you do routine inspections, you can catch impending stub axle failures before they occur.
Buy the tire that gives you the best performance and protect yourself from stub axle failures via your inspection methods.
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Leather wasn't factory on those cars. I'm not an expert on the various options that might have been given, but the stock seats are Naugahyde (fake leather). I guess they could feel like leather if you don't know what real leather seats are like.
And I would feel bad paying $6600 just to chop it up an unmolested original car. If what you're looking for is no rust, there's arizona cars that have no rust, but bad interiors and paint, that you could buy and have shipped for less than $6600. If you were looking for a totally stock DD or something, then yes, I'd pay $6600 for it.
I guess my point is it is not an all original car. Seats and wheels are simple things to correct, but it is not so letter perfect that I wouldn't do a motor swap on it.
I wouldn't pay any thing extra for the phrases "numbers matching" or "original owners".
And keep in mind, different people have different ideas about what the phrase 'no rust" means. Make sure you take a close look at it.
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My gland nuts don't look like that. Mine both look like your rear nuts and came off with a normal wrench.
Maybe someone else will recognize what you have. I would try PM'ing either JohnC or zcarnut. Couple of knowledgeable guys.
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Weren't those wheels dealer installed options? Also I didn't realize leather was factory on such and early car. But I could be wrong.
I wouldn't pay that much.
What is my 240z worth?
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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In your area and rust free, at least 1 to 2 thousand more than a So Cal car.