Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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It is a 400 block with a 350 crank. So that is what, a 377?
Pretty big lift numbers on the cam.
Try a search on 377. Here is one that the guy was estimating 430 HP
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=66497
This one looks more race oriented
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=85468&highlight=377+dyno
So all that work and they still make less HP than a stock LS2 motor.
Damn.
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Yes, guess I should say to clear the stock hood you will need to replace the intake and mount the alternator differently.
Mounting the alternator down low in the F body position works well with a Z. But to do that you will need to replace the water pump and crank pully cause the F bodies run the belt closer to the block than the truck motors.
I think we can also add to get the engine back close to the firewall without having to move the hood latch will require a different intake.
And my guess is you will need to fab your own mounts cause JCI mounts probably won't work with a truck intake. I am just guessing on that.
But if you going through that much trouble, get a 6.0L truck motor instead of the 5.3. Same amount of work to install, will need to deal with the oil pan and intake either way. But the big difference is throw in little more than the correct cam and you can get 500 HP out of the bigger motor.
http://www.carcraft.com/projectbuild/116_0704_lq4_short_block/index.html
Plus the 6.0 motor has the option of using L92 heads incase you want to get closer to 600 HP.
And Milesz is the guy to talk to about the 5.3 swap cause he is the only member I have seen post details of his swap
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124821
Those pictures don't look too promising in terms of hood clearance.
There was a member, I think Lason, who always advocated the truck motors. He was supposedly doing a truck motor swap, but I don't know if he ever posted the finished product. He was going to replace the truck intake with a carb.
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The 5.3's don't flow as well due to the smaller bore. And if it's a truck motor you will need to replace the intake, oil pan and all the accesory drives (including water pump and crank pulley) with F body units.
So my recommendation is you need to source the needed accesories and intake before you will know what the motor actually costs.
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I would love to see someone build an LS2 402 stroker motor with L92 heads and put that in a Z.
LS7 motors and forced induction stuff is all way cool but usually outside the even dreaming price range of most people. An LS stroker motor is by no means cheap, but it is achievable with a bit of sacrifice. Something like that should go like stink on ♥♥♥♥. It could even be done starting with a 6.0L truck block. Nice big cam to take advantage of the Z’s low weight.
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The alignment tool just makes it easier to install the tran shaft in the first place. If you got it all together then it is properly aligned.
One thing for sure, if the noise is truly loud then dropping the trans should tell you in an instant where the interference is. Loud noises most likely means visible marks.
Did you check the run out on the bellhousing? Here is a pretty good description of what I mean
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When did you last calibrate your torque wrench?
Just throwing out ideas.
Hard to believe detonation was blowing the head gaskets. Like said earlier, probably mechanical related.
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The larger of the two tubes is the supply and the smaller the return.
I have a bunch of the Earls tubing compression fittings and they work great. Just expensive. I am using regular wrenches on mine. Just make sure you don't overtighten them. Also if you are using AN to hose, don't mix brands of hose and fittings. They seem to be specific to each other.
You didn't mention what type of engine or mods. If you went way up in HP over stock you may want to consider larger inlet and outlet tubes in the tank.
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Everything I read says EE have higher average starting salaries than the other engineering disciplines. Occasionally Chemical engineers will outdo the EE's, but that usually varies with the condition of the oil market.
The value of a PE license really varies by field. I don't have one and neither do any of my coworkers. Seems like majority of the defense industry places little value on them. I remember the university really pushing the EIT exam when I graduated. Glad I didn't listen to them.
90% of the challange of getting an engineering degree is just having the preserverance and in many cases opportunitiy to finish. Have to echo what the others said about them showing ability as much as learned knowledge. We prefer to hire people with EE degress, but some of the best real time programmers have physics or chemistry degrees. When the market is fat it almost doesn't matter what type of degree people have. But in a tight job market having the right degree makes all the difference in the world.
In my field advanced degrees are very important. It is not uncommon for us to offer a starting salary in the 70's for an MSEE right out of school. What really sucks is when they turn us down for a better offer.
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As long as the vin doesn't come up stolen then they are not going to take the car from you. And since Nissan never made a car with a 5 in that spot it is not likely to turn up as a stolen VIN.
The people who are knowledgable enough to actual spot the discrepancy are also the people who can fix it. Take it to the "ministry inspection station" and get it taken care of.
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You can get to the back of the frame rail by poking a hole through the firewall also. Avoids a hole in the top of the frame rail.
You didn't mention what type of motor. Trouble with the frame rail is you either have to double back get to the alternator or have multiple exit holes.
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If the car has been titled like this for 32 years I would not worry about it. If it hasn't been a problem for 32 years it will probably be good for 32 more.
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Z cars are really light. They don't need a lot of low end torque and can't really make use of it if they have it (traction limited).
Car mags are always talking low end torque, but that is because they are geared toward much heavier cars.
A Z car can get away with single plane intakes and more cam than a heavier car.
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If all you are getting is the long block of questionable origins then offer him $100 for it. You should be able to buy a complete engine for $400.
It doesn't look to have a starter, so a compression test is out. So I would pull the head and check the cylinders. Also drop the pan and pull one of the main bearings to check for rust. If he doesn't want to let you do that then tell him to give you a call back when he does.
I still wouldn't pay much more than $100 for it.
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but like 90% of 240Z owners dont think so
thats because most of the people that own 240z's are stupid teenagers that think goin 80mph is really fast.
Is this your first post?
Welcome to the site
Perhaps you are confusing 240Z's with 240sx's.
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Well, once you get the name figured out it will be all down hill from their.
What about Hal?
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Who is doing the judging and what do they value?
Hard to imagine a V8 swap for under $1500. Make sure you check that guys' receipts carefully.
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Dash and bumpers are the two high dollar items on an old Z. IMO the dash is a big part of what gives an old Z car character
Take unrusted floor pans over anything else.
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A TKO trans has a similar covers that can be used to mount a shifter in different locations.
http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/dimensions.html
Try calling the guys at the web site I linked above. They might be able to help you.
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You can torch weld the patch in. It doesn't have to be a MIG weld. It is easier to control excess heat with a MIG, but if you are careful and work slowly you can torch weld the car without any drama.
I once had a ford fiesta that needed major body replacement. The guy in that shop said the steel was tempered in some fashion and the excess heat from the torch would make it brittle and prone to failure. That is what he told me anyway. Maybe that is the genesis of such talk.
But Z cars torch weld fine. We have had members say as much.
I have read a number of old body books that talk about hammer welding with a torch.
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your "reverse rectifier" is called an inverter. I am sure a few beers looking through google searches will return more plans for home built windmills than you can shake your dick at.
What I don't understand is what you think is so significant about an alternator being self exciting?
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All of my insulation was pretty much falling apart when I pulled it out. I don't plan on putting it back. I also pulled up all the tar from the footwells of the car. That is not going back either.
I am not so worried about the heat as much as the cold in winter. As for noise, I guess I will need to get it running to tell. An easy enough thing to put off and fix later if need be.
I do have a layer of carpet pad underneath the carpet. I got the stuff from a dumpster behind a carpet store. I use velcro at either end to hold the carpet in place. It is easy to take out at the autocross.
There have been quite a number of articles on sound deadening stuff. From what I read there is a huge difference in how the different brands age. Apparanetly the cheap stuff can fall apart in short order. You may want to look up some of the old posts before you invest in dynamat or the like.
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About half way down on the left side
I have seen people pay more for vehicles that came in baskets.
Try and talk him down. It is hard selling a non running car so use that to your advantage.
You can probably get a complete running L6 motor for $300 from someone on this site. I will sell you one with an attached 5 speed for that. Z car blocks often go 250K miles without needing more than a hone on rebuild. So don't let the idea of not being able to bore it out again discourage you.
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I replaced the SU's on my 70 240 with dual webers cause it was cheaper than trying to rebuild the SU's.
You didn't say wether it was dual downdraft webers or triple sidedraft carbs. If it is triple webers they could have gone in as a performance upgrade. Dual webers might have gone in with the same idea in mind. Maybe he just thought they would be better carbs and/or got a deal on them.
If I were you I wouldn't worry too much about the motor. They can be rebuilt cheaply enough. It is the "no rust" statement that should concern you. Fixing rust is time consuming and expensive. A truely rust free 240 Z, even with a blown motor, can go for $3k to $5K in your area. Look at a running motor as a perk.
You are going to need to drain the gas and change the oil before you try to start it. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the plugs and squirt some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and turn the engine by hand a few times too.
Find out how it has been stored. In a closed garage our out in the elements. That would mean more to me than a running motor.
f body t56 options
in Drivetrain
Posted
The thought of buying a used t56, then having to drop another $1500 on an ineveitable rebuild, made me think a new, aftermarket unit was a good price.
The new ones have been redesigned and don't wear out as readily as the old ones. Plus they can be had with both electronic and mechanical speedo hook ups.
Not flipping cheap though.