Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Not really. Not without cutting into the cabin sheet metal.
What you can do is a Ron Tyler style diff mount. That will allow you to thin out the front crossmember some
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How will these be different from the modern motorsport stubs?
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=62
$500 beats $695, but other than that?
I knows a large number of people were asking for a set with a larger than stock spline count. If you made sets with matching companion flanges, then you would have something unique.
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In stock form that might make for an expensive daily driver. Can't imagine parts are readily available. I would get on some Triumph sites and start asking questions. That car might be worth a lot more to someone else.
Interesting car never the less. Growing up a neighbor had a mint TR2. I always loved that car. He only drove it on a handful of weekends each year. Spent the rest of his time drinking gin and tuning the motor.
From what I read some models of that car had something like 26 HP. That thing could be death on a modern freeway.
4 wheel drum brakes have to suck also.
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i think im about up to my million mark on the search button trust me ive looked...i know about the tko but the idea of spendin the same 2k mark or more on a five speed doesnt appeal to the comparison on the extra gear and better ratios and the 400 (if i can even find one that cheap!!) t56 plus 1800 rebuild were up to 2200...plus 350 for the special flywheel up to 2550 plus master and slave and plumbin to them with fittings were at least 200 more on the lowest end possible(used m/c and s/c) thats all without provision for speedo im up to 2700 at least!!!! so basicly there is no hope for less than 3k for a properly working t56 installed and shiftable tranny...thats wat i figured still way out of proportion if ya ask me...
http://www.ddperformance.com/T-56%20Transmissions.htm
The place above sells brand new T56's for $2400. Can't tell from the list if the LT/LS versions includes the mechanical speedo drive. So another 600-700 to finish it off and you are at the $3k mark.
T5's are an option, but the G force upgrade to make them bullet proof also makes them cost as much as the T56. Makes them louder and weight more too.
Tremec makes a GM version of the TKO that should be a straight bolt up to a first gen SBC. Just get any ole SBC clutch and bellhousing and bolt this up like it was a Muncie. They have both mechanical and electronic outputs. All for only $2K. The TKO is suppose to be bullet proof, but a lot of guys don't like them much. Pete Paraska had one for a while and got rid of it.
http://www.ddperformance.com/Tremec%20Trans.htm
Only real way to save money is to roll the dice and get a used unit.
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The rant is alright.
Doesn't matter if any of that other stuff has any merit or not. What matters is you guys answered the call. You should get nothing but kudos for that.
Save the other conversations for the comming elections. Let the politicians deal with all that.
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Have you seen this thread?
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123341&highlight=msd+tach
I don't know squat about megasquirt, but sounds like all you need is a stronger trigger. So if the MSD part doesn't work perhaps you can contact bryan01 and see about getting the adapter he made.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MSD%2D8918&autoview=sku
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Can't tell anything about the rust from those pics. Good news is it looks like original paint. So no new paint hiding old rust.
Go to http://www.zhome.com about half way down and read their advice for buying a Z and the list of common rust areas. Surface rust is not a big deal. Visibile holes and bubbles under the paint are a concern.
Take a screw driver and jab at the floor boards and around the battery box. If the screw driver goes through, that whole section needs to be cut out and new metal welded in.
Car has straight bumpers.
$1000 would be a good deal if the rust is as he says. Rebuilding the top end, or even buying a complete running motor that someone has sitting in their driverway, would not be a big deal.
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I would imagine one phone call or email to hptuner will answer your questions.
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would the phantom grip product eliminate the pin problem or would the ARB locker work as well still want to hear from someone with one of these two products installed thanks for the input
The phantom grip has been talked to death on this site. there are a lot of posts from people who had them, and then got rid of them, so this is one time a search will tell you what you want to hear.
As for the locker, I don't remember ever seeing a post by anyone who has used one. In fact, the idea they are even available for an R200 is a fairly recent topic of conversation around here. If you want to find people who have one, I would put up a thread with a title "Anyone with a detroit locker in an R200?"
I would imagine the locker will be as strong as a welded diff. There are plently of testimonials about those around here. I would have to agree with everyone else that installing a locker will push your fail points to the stub axles and half shafts.
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Good luck and restore some order while your over there.
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This problem has been addressed before. Someone posted a detailed link on how to fix it with a loctite product specifically made for that use.
Do a search and find the fix. The article was directed toward a Miata, so try using that word in the search
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I don't think (
is an option. Credit card companies only get involved if there is a flat out fraudulant claim. It has been my experience they won't get in the middle of disputes about quality of service.And I am pretty sure you need to do C before you can do A.
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Smart cars can be had factory stock with a 600 cc turbo motor
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smart_Fortwo
They also make a turbo diesel motor, but I think that is 900 cc. Interestingly I was doing some flight testing for an Army contract and they had some Hunter unmanned aircraft there. The new ones use two Smart car turbo diesels for power, one in the front and one in the rear. Was pretty cool to see these little 3 cylinder turbo motor with K&N air filter on each.
Before the diesels they used Moto-Guzzi gas motors
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I was wrong, it is Plymouth Rubber Company #734 harness Wrapping Tape.
This is OEM specification tape on many new vehicles, self extingusihing, and can come pre-scored so you can breakout wires without having to use a knife. Comes in many colors as well!
Here is some of their Propaganda:
DESCRIPTION :
Plymouth #734 Colored Harness Wrap Tape is a soft PVC tape with pressure sensitive adhesive.
#734 is designed for fast, efficient production taping. Controlled unwind eliminates scrap and improves productivity. Harnesses taped with #734 remain very flexible, easing installation during final assembly.
Plymouth #734 Colored Harness Wrap Tape meets and exceeds the requirements of Delphi Packard Electric Division Specification No. ESM-4037, DIN 40633, JIS 2107, UTMS 16002, Ford Performance Spec. ES-XU5T-1A303-AA (B02) and most European, US and Japanese specifications for color coding tapes.
RECOMMENDED USES:
Use as permanent wrapping on wiring harness passenger vehicles, trucks, construction and agricultural equipment, aircraft, aerospace and electronic assemblies. Preferred when requirements include a need for numerous colors plus long term reliability under varying and extreme environmental conditions.
STANDARD SIZES:
Widths
10mm*, 15mm, 19mm, 25mm and 32mm Available Length - 20m and Core Size - 38mm
*The 10mm width is available with side notching for hanking and similar applications requiring secure attachment and fast, easy removal.
*****************************************************************************************
Tyko Polyken 007 is another tape for harnesses, but better for behind the dash and places where it's hidden, or where cloth style harness tapes were originally used. It has a slightly more 'cloth' look to it compared to the Plymouth stuff.
EASTWOOD P/N 25000 is also a good wiring harness wrap as it's non-adhesive as well. Some stuff can be 5 mil, and really abrasion resistant...nice out in the engine bay.
So you mean the stuff Deja and I linked to...
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That motor must be sitting a good ways forward. When I looked into mounting the alternator there it hit the strut tower. Yours looks to have the entire alternator in front of the tower.
The corvette accessories run the belt 3/4 of an inch closer to the block than the F body. The truck accessories run the belt farther out than the F body. But still, that motor comes forward a good bit. I wonder where the shifter would be with a T56 installation.
And as for oil pans, the new pan of choice is the LS2 pan. Cost the same as an F body unit but gives and inch better ground clearance and has better internal baffling to better handle hard turns. Do a search, part numbers have been listed.
I still think by the time you buy everything needed to fit it in a Z the 5.3 could be a false economy. Depends upon your goals, resourcefulness, and whether you want an automatic transmission.
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While not a wire wrap I bought the flex braid stuff from Jegs. Looks like the same stuff we use on our radar wire bundles.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_759804_-1_10409
I think Cozy Z Cole once recommended this stuff from Eastwood. Might want to double check with him.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1368&itemType=PRODUCT
This place has the good type of flexible ribbed conduit. The nylon stuff doesn't get brittle with age and crack like the cheap plastic stuff does. They have a lot of other good stuff, plus some very good tech articles.
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You funny guy.
Sorry about your car.
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Spinners? How about some Ben Hur hubcaps to get through the street demonstrations in a big hurry.
Keep your ass down and head up over there.
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If you are budgeting $10,000 for the engine add $2,500 for the blower kit and let's say $20,000 on the rest and more. Good Luck on your project...
LARRY
I think you are being conservative in your dollar estimates
Damn, grumpy. That ohio crank company lists an engine with dual Holley 1150's. Amazing that a motor could use that much air. Probably takes a small fire hose for a fuel pump.
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Speaking of which, did you ever get the car?
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Do you all think there is 2000 Z's that their owners would be willing to replace the dash?
No
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I did the same thing to my 240. Never put a floor jack on the "frame rails" of a 240. Use a big block of wood and a heavy hammer to straighten them back out.
This place has weld in subframe connectors. I just ordered a set yesterday believe it or not.
I also got a set of their single point jacking plates on order. So from now on I should have a stiff chassis and convienent jacking point.
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You probably could have saved yourself a good bit of effort with a Ron Tyler diff mount. but interesting solution non the less.
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I had to go through this headache with my Toyota Tacoma I sold... I wanted to sell the car, had the buyer lined up and everything... In order to get the title in hand, I needed to pay the full amount left on the loan and wait for them to send it to me. The buyer was cool enough to front the money after we wrote a contract out, but it took forever (like 6-7 weeks) and he backed out. I actually sold it to another buyer for more money and had to pay off the first for the upfront money to get the title. So... it's a BIG headache.
If it's through a bank, I'm sure it'll be much easier since you can go to the bank and talk to someone in person. No such luck with the dealer financing.
I was on the other end of such a transaction when I bought a used pick up. I basically gave the guy a check to mail to ford motor credit to pay off his truck. FoMoCo mailed him the title, and when he got it we met up a second time for him to sign it over to me.
We did notarize a bill of sale prior to my handing him the check. Risky, but it worked out for me. They guy was having a lot of trouble finding someone trusting enough to go along with such a deal.
And I will be amazed if the bank will give you the time of day about someone else's account. They should rightly only deal with the account holder.
is an option. Credit card companies only get involved if there is a flat out fraudulant claim. It has been my experience they won't get in the middle of disputes about quality of service.
Custom 5 bolt stub axles with or with 3/4" offset
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
That is why you ditch the drums and put on a set of disk brakes.