Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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I have always heard it called compression braking. Leaving it in gear and using the engine to slow a vehicle is really not that uncommon. Truck drivers do it all the time. A number of engines are even fitted with compression releases to allow the engine to coast with the motor still in gear. I once had a dirt bike with a compression release. And the gravel trucks driving behind my house definitely use compression braking when rolling up to the traffic light. Flipping loud
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I just might be slow today but I don't see a price.
The t56 for the LT1/first gen motors is different than the LS motors. make sure you get the right one.
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Most articles say you want 3 to 5 degrees of static alignment. So figure the total offset can't be more than say 7% of your driveshaft length
(i.e. 0.07*DSLength). That works out to 4 degrees of driveshaft angle.
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Pretty sure the JCI mounts are offset to the US passenger's side. So if the GM diff is offset to that side you should be good.
You also know the diff and motor don't have to be centered on each other to be OK. As long as they are parallel and the total offset (left right plus up down) is within reason there will be minimal vibration.
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Looks like you have a few choices for on base garages
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Hopefully someone will chime in with price. I am just like you and always do my own work, so I have no idea either.
but want to second what myplasticegg said. Every Navy base I was ever stationed at had a well equiped auto hobby garage. I swapped out a trans in one many moons ago.
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Buddy of mine bought a chevy Trailblazer SS with the 6.0L motor. The engine computer tells you when to change the oil based upon the way you drive. He got 12K miles on the initial oil change.
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Yes, you need to flip the front mount around when swapping from an r180 to the R200.
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We have a 2001 Toyota Sienna with 85K miles. No real problems. Once drove across the state of Ohio with the cruise control set at 94 mph and kids watching videos in the back. They are very nice and very comfortable vehicles. The thing does well in the snow, but winters here are fairly mild. They do have soft suspension and an unbelievable amount of rubber between the chassis and the body. Definitely no sports car.
Will probably buy a new minivan next year. The Toyota and Honda are on the top of the list. Don't see much difference between the two of them. They both have the same size motor, same gas mileage, same transmissions, many of the same options and about the same reputation. Guess I will buy whichever gives me the better deal.
SUV's make no real sense to me when you have kids. Sliding doors are a godsend to avoid having to scream at your kids about door dings. It is really nice to be able to lean down to strap in a kid rather than reach up to the car seat like you do with an SUV. Especially if your wife is not very tall. And unlike an SUV the third row seat is accessible even to adults without anyone having to get up. This is even true with a kid seat strapped in. I think most SUV's need to remove the kids seat to slide the middle row forward for third row access.
I have known several people who traded in SUV's for the reasons above.
Plus the death rates in minivans are markedly better than the average SUV or body on frame van.
And never buy the factory DVD or navigation systems. Check out Best Buy and save yourself several thousand dollars.
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That looks solid enough. Looks like something I would make, less dados here and there
I would definitely add some fore-aft gussets like roostmonkey said. 3/8 plywood would be ideal. Maybe a cross piece connecting the front and back legs down at the floor. Screws always feel tight at first but vibration can really loosen a non-dado joint in a hurry.
Looks a little nose heavy too. maybe nail it to an 8' board running directly underneath the engine to increase the front to back footprint.
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Unless you are sitting in traffic unmoving for extended periods, the straight dump under the car should have no interior intrusion issues.
You use the words "should" and "probably" alot. Pretty big assumptions.
I know I could tell when my shifter boot was bad by the cold air blowing up along the shifter. But that probably shouldn't cause exhaust to swirl under the car and possibly into the cabin. Probably shouldn't, I would guess. And even if it did, I imagine you should probably most likely get sick, I should think, long before you have the possiblity of passing out.
BTW, don't take the meter suggestion literally. Although they do have audible alarms. It probably isn't a bad idea.
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The R230 is the best Nissan rear end swap for our IRS Z cars.
It is the biggest, heaviest, most expensive and takes the most work to install, but "best" is subjective.
Also I am not sure what the advantage of a short nose R200 would be over the standard R200.
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I don't like ABS because it is just one more expensive thing to break.
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While you are at radio shack, pick up a battery powered carbon monoxide meter and install that in your car.
There is a reason safety inspections require solid piping all the way out the back of the car.
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Dirty battery posts and/or bad grounds.
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"thirty over" implies thousands at the end. No misnomer there.
Long Colt is a colloquialism used to distinguish it from a 45 ACP round. 45 Colt is potentially ambiguous.
I don't see the problem with word harmonics either. Could just as easily use the phrase octave suppression device.
But then I have often been accused of being argumentative.
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Hood clearance could be an issue.....
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You can get a brand new TKO for under $2K. It will bolt up just like a Muncie.
They also make aftermarket T56's that will fit where a Muncie use to.
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An LS motor can easily be positioned behind the rack.
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The stock NGK plugs should work fine. If they don't, then my guess is something got hooked back up wrong.
Look for a loose vacuum hose or mixed up plug wires.
Maybe a little better description of how the car is running. Does it not want to idle, won't start, back fire, black smoke, missing under accel, wont rev past 3000 RPM?
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Fortunately the statement “The 1-wire sounds easy, but I hear the original 3-wire may provide better voltage regulation†isn’t true.
Why isn't it true?
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You can't possibly expect meaningful help with that description.
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I struggled with my clutch slave for some time. It would just keep leaking fluid.
Finally someone here warned me the master and slave should be replaced in pairs. When I took the master out for the V8 upgrade I found fluid all inside the car. Guess they were right.
My advice is buy a new clutch master and a $12 brake cylinder hone, then clean up the slave yourself.
Another option is to find a place that will put a stainless steel sleave in the slave. Suppose to be a permanent fix.
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Newspapers when I did it.
Noticed quite a few on Craigslist. Go to the storage/parking section and search on garage
engine heat
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
There is more to it than just insulating the engine. Your approach will just cause detonation.
You need to give the hot gasses time to expand to convert the maximum amount of heat energy into mechanical energy. Marine diesels can hit 50% efficiency. But they only turn at like 100 RPM and have bores and cylinders so large they effectively build the ship around the engine. They are also designed to run at full throttle all the time. Running an engine at part throttle is part of what kills the efficiency.