danj

Don I'm not sure what you mean by "adjust the distributor". I turned the distr. as necessary to get the base timing as required by the Pro Flo system. The local speed shops don't have a tester for this distributor. It is a Mallory system that's made especially for the Pro Flo system with the "Hall Effect" set up. I did have the Blaster coil tested and it was fine. The ignition system has an Ignition Amplifier that also checked out OK. How would I go about checking the distributor further? Also, the compression check was normal and even across all cylinders. DanH

I appreciate the input. I'll accumulate any replies I receive during the week and work on the car on the weekends to see if any of the proposed solutions can solve the problem. I did run a compression check which would generally eliminate a valve problem. I have set the base timing as required for the EFI system to enable it to adjust spark properly. I can get the engine to smooth out some by retarding the timing through the handheld module by the max allowable of 16 deg. I'm not sure if this is telling me I have a timing chain or cam phase problem, or if the system is just self-adjusting the timing for a fuel or other electrical problem. The system always strives to reach a balance betweem rich/lean whatever it takes, so it's hard to know what the problem is that's causing the system's timing adjustment to be so far out of whack. The fuel pressure regulator I'm running isn't the stock one that came with the system. I'll check that out for a possible leak. DanH

I have an 83 280ZXT with a 383 stroker, Vortec Iron heads, 700R-4 and stock turbo rear. I'm running an Edelbrock Pro-Flo EFI system that is malfunctioning and so far no one has figured out what's wrong with it. The symptom is that the engine backfires through the tailpipe continuously as if the plug wires were rearranged, which they are not. But that is what it is doing. The engine and EFI were apparently doing fine until I took the car to a tranny shop and let the guy run a 1/2" gas line in lieu of the 3/8" gas line that comes with the EFI system. I'm running about 42 psi through the fuel rails, which is correct for the system specs, so it doesn't appear to be a fuel problem. I cleaned the injectors and rails just to be sure. I worked with the Edelbrock tech people by phone for a few months and they ran out of suggestions. I changed plugs, checked the plug wires, distributor, coil, battery voltage to the system, and checked all resistances for the wiring of the EFI. Changed out most sensors. Checked the cylinder compression. Ignition Amplifier. Changed out the gas. Reset the timing to the base setting for the system. Checked and reconnected the EFI ground wires, etc. Even sent the ECU back to Edelbrock for testing and they sent me another one that did the same thing. The handheld programming module isn't flashing an error message. I am using the Mallory Hall Effect distributor that is made for the system. I am thinking that it is still some kind of a wire or electrical connection problem of some kind that I have somehow overlooked. Edelbrock says maybe the cam is out of phase, but the system was running OK and the cam hasn't been touched. I am so frustrated with this that I am left with 2 alternatives. Do whatever it takes to get the system running or change it out for a 4 bbl carb set-up. I don't know if it's proper or not in this forum but I would happily pay someone $100 if they can offer a solution that works. Any knowledgeable input from experienced EFI guys would be greatly appreciated. DanH

I have searched the threads and wasn't able to find enough discussion that was helpful in the wheel forum so I thought I would try this. If this is a no no posting that's in the wrong place let me know. I am now on the road woth an 83 280ZX with 383 stroker, 700R4 tranny, stock stall convertor, Edelbrock EFI, and R200 3:54 rear. The more the engine gets tuned in the more apparent it is that the Goodyear Eagle tires I'm running aren't going to last long. Edelbrock estimates about 500 H.P. The car will be street driven 99% of the time, with maybe an occasional trip to the strip for performance verification. I need better launch traction, drivability and highway cruise capability. For now I am staying with the stock ZX 15" wheels. Would like to get some experienced recommendations for tires you guys have run. I checked out the Tire Rack site and came up with these possibilities for tire size 215/60-15. Bridgestone Potenza RE750, Kumho ECSTA KU19, Yokohama AVS ES100, and Goodyear Eagle RS-A. I am sure there are many others to consider and I could always keep launch tires for occassional use as well. Any recommendations based on first hand knowledge and experience? Thanks. Dan H.

Dan C. How is the Bowtie convertor and TV cable doing? I had also purchased the TV cable kit but have not installed it yet. I'm taking the Z to a tranny shop next week to see about going to a higher stall, perhaps 2500-2800. Dan J.

I have a TCI starter (part #356000) that bolts up fine but has an intermittent starting problem due to the heat of the hedder passing within a few inches of the starter. Was advised to change it out to a high torque starter. Dan H.

Dan C. Thanks for your reply. I tried to send you an email recently but it was returned so I guess you changed email addresses in the past year or so. You made a wise choice to keep your power rack & pinion. I lost a lot of handling and drivability for the sake of the small difference of running full flow headers. Edelbrock estimates that I am running about 500 H.P. with my set-up. The EFI gives me a lot of variables in setting up the fuel and spark modifiers. The only changes I made to the suspension are new Tokico struts all around and polyurethane (not sure of these spellings) bushings everywhere. Car seems to sit a tad higher in the front after the conversion. I'm going to take it to a performance tranny shop soon to be sure I have the throttle valve, convertor, etc properly set up. What convertor are you running? I am thinking about upgrading to a 3000 stall TCI or equivalent. The car surges in drive at idle. Next decision is performance street tires. Thinking of Yokohama AVS ES100 tires (VR speed rated). Do you have any pics of how you ran your tubes and where the headers flow past the power rack? Dan H.

After 2 1/2 years in fabrication (and don't ask how much $$$$), the 83 ZX is on the road and in the testing and tuning stage. Basically it has a 383 stroker, Edelbrock Pro-Flo EFI, 700R4 tranny, aggressive street/strip Comp cam, Pro-Comp guages, Lokar shifter, aluminum radiator, braided fuel and brake lines, hi-pressure fuel system, and various goodies to support the set-up. As expected there were many bumps and problems to be solved along the way. The biggest hurdle seemed to be running a free flow exhaust system with the existing power rack steering. I regretfully gave up my power rack steering at the insistence of the fabricatior to allow the use of free flow headers. This was done with the thinking that manual rack steering would be OK. As it turns out the steering is very stiff and the car no longer handles like a sports car (more like a delivery truck). The steering column has a relatively sharp angle going through the header tubes, which may be contributing to the problem. The rest of the problem may be in the rack itself. I am not sure if it could be converted back to power rack at this point. To my knowledge the manual and power steering set-ups are different on the 79-82ZX models, and the 83 is a different animal to deal with. Has anyone run free flow headers on an 83ZX or converted to manual rack with success? Would like some input, suggestions and/or pics that might guide me on this. Any help would be appreciated. Dan H.

Grump The article seems to pertain mostly to new engines produced by new car manufacturers. Since most of the HybridZ "new" engines are really custom rebuilds employing a variety of honing procedures, clearances, rings, etc., would you modify the recommended break-in procedure any based on the parts, procedures and methods used by each engine shop? Dan H.

I had my entire exhaust system, including the muffler, ceramic coated by a company called Airborn Coatings in Oklahoma City. I shipped the parts to them via UPS and they did the job and returned them to me in 8 days. The cost was only about $12.50 per foot for coating inside and out. They did a great job and were easy to work with. If you want more particulars let me know. Dan H.

Those are impressive nembers indeed. I'm just getting my 83 ZX 383 going now and considering tires. Want to stay with the stock 15" wheels for now. Several of you mentioned about running the B.F. Goodrich 235/60/15 drag radials. How are these tires on the street? What about tread life in mostly street, occasional drag usage? Any other choices to consider? Dan H.

What happened to the posts from Feb 22-24?

The conversion is basically complete except for debugging and fine tuning. I have a 383 sbc and 700R4 tranny in an 83ZX 2+2. The only suspension changes I made were Tokico struts front and rear, and polyurethane bushings. Problem is the front end seems to sit a little higher after the conversion, which is a surprise since I thought the front end would have gained weight. Anybody else experience this? Should I consider changing out the front springs? Any experienced help would be appreciated. Dan H.

Thanks for the replies and link to the Bowtie site. Bowtie has an excellent site that is easy to navigate and very informative. They do have the TV kit for the Edlebrock 3507 EFI system along with some other parts that should make life easier for running the 700R4. Dan H.

I have an 83ZX with a 383 Stroker engine and performance rebuilt late 80's type 700R4 tranny. I've searched the threads but couldn't find any detailed information on how to install and setup the TV system for this tranny. I know a lot of Hybrid Zer's are running this trans so it must be do-able and affordable. I am running Edelbrock Pro Flo EFI. Any help on setting up this TV system/tranny would be greatly appreciated. Trying to avoid some of the pitfalls I read in some of the threads. Thanks, Dan H.

I am finally in the final stages of conversion of my 83ZX. I had the engine built in the Phoenix area at 5-Star Engines. They do a quality job and can work with you to help you meet your performance and budget goals. I decided to go with the Edelbrock Pro Flo EFI set-up for my Vortec heads. This was expensive but since I have an aggressive cam I needed to make it more streetable/driveable. Running headers on the 83 model is a custom job. There are no bolt-ons that I know of. You can find a lot of prior threads about that on this site. If you want the address or phone number for 5-Star let me know. Dan C. and Greimann have commented on this topic and they have been very helpful in my conversion decisions, as has Ross C. and John Welch. Hope I didn't leave anyone out. Dan H. Tulsa, OK

8OLT1 I don't have a web site yet. I'll send the pic to you via the email address you posted. The pic will show the Autometer guages fitting snugly into the 83ZX dash. The center guages for the speedo and tach are the 5" Pro or Sport Comp. guages. They're listed in the on-line Autometer catalog. Dan H

RPMS How did you insert the pic into your post? I have a pick of the Autometer guages in my ZX that I think will answer some of these concerns about fit. Dan H

turbobluestreak Were you able to locate the crossmember for the 83ZX? Can you send me a pic? There seems to be some differences of opinion as to whether there is a different crossmember for manual rack vs. power rack on the 83ZX. fastzcars Thanks for the reference to the zbarn. I have contacted them and waiting for them to reply. Dan H

I don't know if this is the best place to post this but I am needing the crossmember bar for a manual rack steering system for a 1983 280ZX. I am converting from power rack to manual rack to gain some needed clearances for the full flow headers and exhaust system I'm hoping to install. If anyone has such a part or knows where I can find one it would be most appreciated . Dan H

Are you running manual rack or power steering? The 83ZX does present some special clearance problems as we have found out with the installation of the sbc into my 83. Did you build your own headers from scratch for the driver side exhaust or make modifications from existing headers? We're converting from power to manual rack to gain some clearances. Have had some problems finding parts especially the cross member. Seems like there are more and more hybrid ZX projects being posted lately. Not as much information available for these, especially the 83 model. Keep us posted on your progress and how you solve any unusual problems along the way. Best of luck. DanH

I'm looking at about $15,000 and still counting. Everyone's project is different based on their budget, time, knowledge, goals, etc. There is a big trade-off between time and money on these projects. Some will spend less money but be willing to put in hundreds of hours in labor, learning, and shopping for discounted parts. Others, like myself, would rather pay someone who has the shop, tools, and time to do the major work and are willing (if able) to pay for their labor and expertise. Then it comes down to how big is your dream vs. how deep is your wallet The bigger the dream the more it costs. I don't think anyone with a hybrid Z is ever really done spending. It's kind of like a life-long hobby. The closer my 83ZX 383 gets to completion the less I seem to be concerned about how much it is costing. I guess sooner or later I'm going to have to start buying food and making mortgage payments again . DanH

IMHO: I would start by deciding what are your driving/performance goals . At your age this may not be easy to determine and may change next month or next year, but you have to start somewhere. Then design the car and engine in your mind that would allow you to fulfill that dream. Since you are just getting started in your automotive education you may want to wait at least long enough until you have learned enough to be sure of what components you want in that engine. I had my engine built to my specs a year ago and would have changed many things if I had waited just another year, and I'm in my 50's. You will learn a lot about every possible combo just from following the postings to this site. As for investing in the future I would say this: Ask anyone who was nearing retirement age what happened to their nest egg over the past 2 years. Where did all that hard earned money go that was supposed to be there for retirement? I have learned that you can't change the past, and the future is never guaranteed. The only thing you can control is the present. Not that we should throw out all caution and common sense, but there is something to be said about enjoying the fruits of your labor or good fortune now. If I had the money I lost in the stock market I could instead be driving the ultimate Z-car, or any other car I dreamed about . My hard earned money now goes toward living my dreams, not to line the pockets of professional money launderers . Best of luck on your project whatever you decide. DanH

Some of the regulars that post to this site also have their own web sites that include documentation and pics that show the conversion process they have gone through. There are common problems that are familiar to many conversions but everyone also has their own unique process, fabrication techniques, parts preferences, performance or driveability goals etc. Also each each model series seems to have it's own peculiarities, like the Z vs. the ZX. Perhaps we could start with a reference of all the HybridZ sites for guys who have their own web sites with descriptions of how they solved the problems with their conversions. I'm planning on documenting all the techniques used to solve hood and steering clearance issues, EFI, A/C, etc., on my ZX conversion along with pics to assist anyone who wants to do the same. DanH

The stock color on my 83ZX was called Platinum Silver, with clear coat and black pin striping. Naturally I am prejudice on this but I have not seen a color combination for accessories, trim, interior, etc. that looks better JMHO . I think the best colors are the one's you like best on your car. Dan H