Doc Hawk

Wrong button, please delete!

I alluded to my issue in a recent reply to a similar question, but I realized I probably need to just start my own thread at this point. I am hoping to control fuel and spark on my L28ET with MS Extra on a 3.57 board using a NA electronic ignition module (star wheel, not optical turbo). I know most folks just opt for optical trigger with the 82/83 ZXT distributor, but I bought a turbo car that "supposedly" was running before they took off the turbo to replace leaking oil lines. MS was installed in the car already (badly...) but I get sensor readings. The wiring seems to me to have been for fuel only, with spark left to the stock NA distributor. The coil wiring makes no sense at all... the positive side doesn't even have a line to it or available for it, so I am having a hard time believing the car was running. I think it was an MS install that someone gave up on. Anyway, with the engine in the car and everything hooked up, I would like to try and use the NA distributor. Searching, I see many many folks refer to locking it down to eliminate mech and vac advance... anyone have details on how they did that? Next, has anyone actually used the NA electronic ignition as the timing input for MS? How? What wires from the distributor and which wires from the MS harness were used? How was the coil wired? (-) to tach and pin 36? + to relay power that's on with the fuel pump?

Have a link to any of those threads? I have been searching at length (2 days) and I run into plenty of question threads, but few definitive answers. X64v seems to have wired up a non-optical distributor in 2006, but never provided a writeup. Others have asked questions about getting signals directly off the VR. Still no sign of someone saying, "I wired the electronic ignition module with star wheel hall effect/VR sensor for MS. Here are the wires I used, here are the pins I connected them to, and here's how I froze the stock advance." Links appreciated! I have over a dozen bookmarks of people saying it can be done, but none showing how. I am hoping to control fuel and spark on my L28ET with MS Extra on a 3.57 board using a 280zx ignition with a NA electronic ignition module (star wheel, not optical turbo).

I've run a 3" CAI into a TWM for years and have been happy with my mix.

Josh, all your posts and additional explanations only clarify the need for attitude adjustment and training, rather than your intended goal of proving that your need is legitimate. You envision CCW as a magical empowerment that will suddenly allow you to talk back to the smack-talkers, stand up for the weak, and not back down from confrontations, because you envision yourself as always walking around with the ultimate answer (shooting somebody). Your demonstrated attitude is guaranteed to fulfill your wishes - you will end up shooting someone, probably unjustified. With your current skills and judgment, you'll also probably end up shooting some innocent bystanders at the same time. That will leave you with few opportunities to work on your Z, which would be tragic. Bloz Up is right on. Carrying concealed means you need to be even MORE reserved than the average citizen. The best way to win a fight is not just to back down, but to avoid the initial conflict in the first place. Josh, most of the situations you describe to support your need to carry are totally avoidable, and even if not avoidable, certainly the proper attitude and awareness will not lead to you being forced to "eat asphalt." This is not a personal attack. We all start young. You still are, but you're asking questions and growing. Don't read these comments and decide all these folks just chimed in to hate on you. There's lots of good advice here, some hating, but mostly genuine concern expressed because your comments show pretty clearly that you are not quite yet ready for the responsibility of concealed carry. That's not a permanent condemnation, it's just a reflection of where you're at right now. If this is something you really need to pursue, you need to do a lot of learning and a little growing. You can evaluate your growth on your own - you will remain unready if you get defensive, and keep reading and dreaming about standing up to the bad guys. You will be growing if, six months from now, you've been to the range at least 10 times, you have local people you're talking to about gun handling and concealed carry, and you're realizing that carrying concealed sounds like a huge legal and psychological burden instead of Steel Manhood. Good luck, David

Here you go.

Sounds good. I'll grab a pair of Z32's on my next JY trip and monkey around with a spare door. If it works, I'll post a writeup.

Thanks Tony. That was one of the comments that left me scratching my head and thinking the OP needs to read less and shoot (in a legal, controlled environment) more.

A few things: - Inferno hit the nail on the head, XD45 Compact is an excellent choice for CCW; there are similar models from competitors to find one that fits your hand and firing posture. If you're shopping by caliber, this is a gimmie. - Derek is correct; the 1911 is not a CCW. Period. There aren't many absolutes in firearms, but I think this is one of them. - If you're worried about getting jumped somewhere, all the talk about guns in cars or apartments is not applicable. I think it might be best to concentrate on your identified threat situation/vulnerability, and address that. Anything that doesn't specifically address that is distracting at best and leads to dangerous postulation (as a civilian) at worst. - For practical purposes, there are no such things as accurate (or inaccurate) combat handguns. There are only accurate and inaccurate shooters. A little God-given talent and a whole lot of practice separate these two groups. - Josh, you need (and I say this in love) range time. Many of your answers and questions make it apparent that you've spent some time bench-racing this whole defensive carry idea, but you haven't got a lot of range experience. Go do some shooting, meet some nice folks who are gunsy, learn all you can, and you'll make a much better showing of yourself when you respond to things like Jon's input regarding single action revolvers and their recoil. FWIW, I am medium height, slim/medium build. I carry a .45 compact 10-round S/A for general duty, or a full frame 9mm 15-round DM Semi (Browning BDM) for high risk environments. The BDM is a long discontinued gem which is the only full frame, hicap semi that lies as flat as a single stack. It's a beauty - I just hope she doesn't break down, because parts are NLA. Just one guy's opinion. I have peers that I respect who offer very rational and reasonable explanations for different opinions, so YMMV. Cheers, David Experience: 152nd Security Police Sqdn, NVANG (Ret) Private Security Regional Field Supervisor Dept of Homeland Security, Counterterrorism Instructor, CSTI Currently Security and Protective Services Director (Private Institution)

This is the Ultimate Handgun Debate, and it's all pretty much nonsense. A 9mm is completely adequate for a defense handgun, as is a .44 mag. The real question is whether you can put your rounds on target with your handgun of choice. Below 9mm +P, there are some legitimate concerns that the round won't penetrate into vitals through winter clothing, but above that all penetration and expansion is really enough to penetrate and disrupt vitals. When you compare your .45 ballistic gel performance to that of a 9mm +P, think of the practical gain you are actually receiving. An extra 1/4" radius is probably not going to mean that much if you can't get your round within an inch of the vitals. And if you're not hitting vitals, it's all about the psychological drive of your target. You won't be happy waiting for bleedout while your attacker shoots you back. Lastly, disabuse yourself of any notion of "knockdown power." There's no such thing. Hopefully you know that so I'll forgo the explanation. Shoot what you're good with!

Pics at: http://www.sdrev.com/forums/showthread.php?p=307823 Hood has pins and a custom functional induction scoop glassed in (cracking in the front corner, needs re-glassing), as well as 280z vents. Hatch is fully customized with a spoiler and lower right corner rot.

Maybe slather the outside bases of the bolts and nuts with silicone as well, to help prevent crud intrusion? Kudos for trying to make the best of the situation. I think if I were faced with that (heck, I am considering even doing it on purpose), I might have looked at welding in bar or better yet tube stock across the pan longitudinally, from one remnant to the other. One more thing: consider grinding off the sharp edges at the front of the cutoff mounts. You'd be surprised how often you end up reaching down there; it's no fun to find a sharp surprise.

No, sorry... I'd be concerned on every front. You're trusting your butt to thin sheet metal that is in no way connected to the structural portions of the unibody. The stock braces across the floorpans tie the seat mounts into the rail and the transmission tunnel. Your setup will eventually warp the floorpan and your mount holes will expand. Also, your setup will eventually kill your nice new interior through dirt and moisture intrusion. Lastly, you've set up a nice way to bottom out your spine directly on top of a road hazard.

You'll get very little sympathy and understanding from the forum on this decision. The MS is clearly the way to go for what you are doing and what you will want to do in the future. The fully assembled boxes are within your price range, it's been done so many times before that you can practically follow the installation step-by-step with various walkthroughs posted here, and if you get stuck help is right here. At some point, responders start wondering why they bother responding when a guy's request for help boils down to, "Please solve my problem for me; BTW I'm dedicated to not understanding my car so make sure your solution doesn't involve me learning anything." Get the car running first, as previously suggested in meticulous detail. Worry about an ECU upgrade after that.

Very sexy go-fast compartment. Are those aluminum heads?

Enjoying the progress! Sometime I would enjoy checking her out in person. I'm finally getting around to putting together the axles you gave me. V8 build is finally getting off the ground after being stalled for a year. I ended up selling the shell you saw in favor of a cleaner chassis.

I like it a lot! When I first responded, you hadn't posted your video link yet. Looking forward to more info on your choices, victories and setbacks. Do you have a build thread posted? Working on my own 350 swap. I will have about half the horsepower you have there.

He was joking about longer piping. Your current piping length is measured in yards, whereas most setups are measured in feet. It's very unusual to go the long way around the engine, as the disadvantages of heat exposure, weight, and pressure drop over distance all make this a less attractive option over going straight to the intercooler.

I have a clean '73 with straight body in San Diego. Needs floorpans because some water sat in there but that's not representative of the rest of the car, which has no rot and is very solid. It may be more stripped than you are looking for; no seats, no motor, no trans. However, it's an excellent starting platform, with no door dings and a recent basic silver paint job. You'd need to buy a new hatch and hood to match the Z you want to build; these are customized. email me and I'll send some photos.

dyno sheet and build writeup please

Is that swap documented somewhere?

I left the seats there. They are excellent condition seats but reupholstered in non-stock fashion (solid fabric wings and weave fabric centers). Good seats, just not what I'm looking for. I didn't pull them because I wasn't sure if anyone wants non-stock re-covered seats. There were also some good (not great) stock saddle seats in the other Z... was it an early 260?

That's a good tip, thanks. I will likely be doing the same thing, but I want a more modern set of stalks to match the interior I'm building. I went junkyarding today and saw a set of column controls in an early 90's Honda Accord that might be well suited.

Has anyone ever swapped the stock steering column control stalks for something out of a newer vehicle? I am starting design on a full custom interior and I sure would like to take the opportunity to put some modern solid-state (or at least more reliable) turn/light/wiper/etc controls on the column. I didn't find anything mentioned after a few dozen searches. Thanks, David

Heading out for the seats right now. Thanks for the tip!